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Bought a 1989 4runner with a blown head gasket with the plan to swap in a 3.4. I wanted one with the 5spd, but after looking for 8+ months I never found one that was clean enough and the person wasn't wanting over 2k for it non running.
Found this nice one up in Seattle that had a overheating issue and hole in radiator. Plans for it are to swap 3.4 in it, blazeland long travel front, elocked rear, and front rear fiberglass.
Shortly after I found a 2001 4runner that had 101,252 miles that was rolled. I went and pulled the motor for $1,200. I worked on on doing a timing belt and water pump, drilled dipstick, flip fuel lines etc.
Early March I finally dropped the motor in
and started hooking everything up. Tying to get the old fuel connector off the fuel line I ended up bending the hard line on the frame. So I pulled the line off from the fuel filter. I cut the bent piece out and used a cheap harbor freight flaring tool and flared the end of the line.
Turned out pretty good for my first time trying to flare fuel/brake lines.
I am using a ORS conversion harness and the instructions that came with it are great and making this so much easier than it could have been. I have everything plugged in except for the auto ECM as I am trying to figure out how to get all the wires mounted behind and above the ECU while still being able to install the heater blower.
After messing with trying to get it running using the ignition and hearing nothing I realized I didn't have the Neutral safety switch plugged in. I ended up having to order one as the one that was one transmission had a different plug. Once I installed that and got it plugged into the engine harness when I turned the key I would hear the COR click. After some looking around I traced the ignition wires and saw where previous owner had installed an alarm system.
I removed the entire alarm system and soldered the spliced ignition wire back together, but all I get is still just a click from the COR. I ended up just bypassing the ignition to test to see if it would start and it fired right up but died after a couple seconds. It does this for about 4 times and then 5th time it starts and stays running. I attribute this to a vacuum line that I havent been able to hook up yet as I am waiting for a part. Now I know it atleast will start and can start looking into figuring out ignition since it started just fine before the swap.
The drivers rear quarter panel has a pretty good sized dent and some rust so I am going with the 3in flared fenders from www.toyotafiberglass.com not baja style fiberglass
Does anyone happen to know what the thread size for the union for the transmission cooling lines is? I bought a derale remote transmission cooler and am wanting to get new unions with a -6an fitting with a 90 degree elbow so I can run the lines to the rear of the 4runner where I am planning on mounting the cooler.
Pulled the trans pan so I could mount my temperature gauge and cleaned up the magnets.
The magnets had quite a bit of metal on them
Anyone know where this line in the following picture goes to with the blue pastic piece? I have seen some photos that looks like people capped it off and others where it looked like it was running to the drivers side somewhere
Not sure if anyone else has used the ORS harness for the swap with an auto, but trying to get all those wires tucked out of the way of the ECU and heater blower is not going to be easy.
Nice looking Runner!
What transmission are you using?
Is it the stock 89' or the one out of the 01'?
just curious on what transfer case adapter you will use for the 01' trans.
That's if you are using that one.
Nice looking Runner!
What transmission are you using?
Is it the stock 89' or the one out of the 01'?
just curious on what transfer case adapter you will use for the 01' trans.
That's if you are using that one.
i used a marlin adapter to use a gear drive TC with the 3.4 trans.
Have not updated this for awhile, but I was able to get the remote tranny cooler installed. I installed one earlier, but it had a hole in it from the factory and when I fired it up to move it to work on the exhaust it dumped all the tranny fluid all over he shop. I ended up mounting it above the the spare tire mount.
I also finished up the exhaust. It was a tight fit getting it away from the frame from where the crossover dumps. You can see here just how close it is to the frame.
I also was able to finish the rest of the wiring for the auto transmission and got the OBDII plug installed. I am currently throwing two codes P0100 and P01100, which I believe is because I need to use a MAF sensor from a t100 and not the one that came with the engine which is from a 2001 4runner.
The other issue I have is that before the motor swap the ignition worked fine, but during the swap I noticed it previously had an alarm system in it. I did not have the fob key or know if the alarm even worked. I removed the alarm system and put the wires back together that they used for remote start, but I am unable to start it using the ignition. I get a click from the relay in passenger side of dash, but that is it.
Got some time to work on the rig again and was able to reinstall the dash. I am still trying to figure out why the engine has a weird noise. I thought at first that it could be the belt rubbing on the timing cover, but I removed it and now it seems like the noise is coming from under the valve cover possibly. I heard this engine run before I purchased it and it had no such noise. I tried to video the sound, but it is hard to hear. Does anyone have an idea what it could be? the sound is almost like what it sounds like when you are low on powersteering fluid.
02-24-2015, 12:22 PM
but died after a couple seconds. It does this for about 4 times and then 5th time it starts and stays running. I attribute this to a vacuum line that I havent been able to hook up yet as I am waiting for a part. Now I know it atleast will start and can start looking into figuring out ignition since it started just fine before the swap.
