wickedlester

Hello,

First and foremost I'd like to thank everyone who has shared all this information for this swap. If I wouldn't have consulted this forum I would've probably spent 600 clams on a conversion harness.

After a transmission failure in my 4runner, I decided to get rid of the 22re and replace it with something that has some balls. I'm sick of being blown off the road by geo metros and VW buses.

I picked up a 5vz at a local junkyard with ~115k miles. I've got all my EWDs, almost finished converting my harness from 2000 4runner auto to a 2000 tacoma 5sp (to match my ECU) and now I'm starting to wire in the 1988 body harness to the ECU. Starting to see some daylight at the end of the tunnel.

I am trying to make this wiring as much "plug and play" as possible so I'm looking for a male/female II3 connectors. Does anybody out there have the part numbers for these? I just tried to call a dealership and they wouldn't deal with me unless I provided a VIN#. No listing in TIS either.

Thanks again. I will post some pics at some point.

donomite49

if all else fails i could dig up my vin # from my swap donor, a 2000 4runner auto, for you to use to get your parts.
i bought from a salvage yard and paid good money too... 84k mile engine

you're gonna like the 3.4

wickedlester

I actually found a dealership that looked it up by make and model. Can't get that one unless I buy an entire harness, so I'll just solder the wires i need in.

wickedlester

I'm done with converting my engine harness and I'm now moving onto tying the 88 body harness into the 2000 harness. I've looked through the 1988 4cyl EWD for several hours and I think I've deduced what each wire in the dash and body harnesses are.

I am a little confused, so I've got a few questions.



Here's a cropped image from the 1988 EWD and the red box is the area of interest. I've seen in other forums that I need to tie in the AFM to circuit opening relay pin 4 ground with the 2000 harness. I'm assuming that the COR is controlling the fuel pump, so is the wire that I'm looking for is the blue wire going into the fuel pump and then to ground? I just want to be absolutely sure about this before I go through with it.


Thanks in advance.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

Easiest thing to do is run a wire down from the green wire at the COR. This wire now connects to the FC wire at the 3.4 ecu.

wickedlester

Update:

Got it running and exhaust installed. If it isn't coming a torrential downpour I'll take some pics when I get home from work this afternoon. Looks badass.

So, my only problem now is that it's hesitating pretty bad under throttle. It will build revs slowly but if you give it too much throttle it will just sputter. So far the only thing I've tried to remedy this is clean the MAF. The plugs are black so it's definitely running super rich. It runs noticeably better after it warms up but it still won't take fuel like it should.

What I'll try next:
Reset ECM since I ran it without O2 sensors before exhaust was installed.
New plugs and wires
Clean throttle body

Anybody have any other suggestions? I don't have a OBD II pigtail installed yet. That will come hopefully next week so I can see what CE codes are on.

FGZ

In your estimation, how much time and money did you spend to save $600 for a conversion harness? I ask because going the pre-packaged harness route is a question for me looking into a future swap.

wickedlester

I probably spent a total of 8 hours going through wiring diagrams and made some spreadsheets for my particular swap. I can't really give you a money estimate because I had most of the stuff I needed to do my own wiring, I had all the ECM plugs and a spare 22re harness. $15 for a 48hr TIS subscription.

It was intimidating at first, but it's really not that bad. ORS sells great stuff but I'm not spending $600 for a conversion harness for ~25 wires. The knowledge I've gained of my 4runner from doing my own wiring was well worth the effort.

wickedlester

Picures:



Mounted the fuel filter on the passenger side fender using -6AN stainless braided hose and fittings. Works great so far.




I went ahead and bought a battery box. Looks much nicer than anything I could've fabricated. Bought it from ruff stuff specialties.

wickedlester

The hesitation issue still hasn't been resolved. My OBD II pigtail will be arriving today so hopefully that'll give me some clues to what's going on.

I noticed on ORS's swap instructions 22-RE wiring supplement that their harness includes a lead to be connected to the injector resistor in the passenger side fender.

Can anyone provide any insight to why this is necessary? It looks to me like it's possibly being used as a +B IGN (black-red wire) source. I'm currently using a 12v black-red +B IGN wire on the body harness in the passenger kick panel.

mr_lemons

How is the progress on this?

I am stacking up parts for the same swap (22re 4runner to 3.4) does anyone know if I can run a factory style bolt on trans cross member?

Like this
https://www.trail-gear.com/TG/Crossm...x#.VESfqSIa6Ag

I was planning the SAS and dual cases so I picked up one of those and would still like to use it.

Here is the line up, 3.4, r150, 4cyl case adapter, tcase, dual tcase adapter and the second tcase... The words the explain that are longer than the actual drivetrain

wickedlester

With the exception of a couple wires (procrastinating with reverse lights and 4wd indicator switch) and setting up EVAP I'm done. I've got a small power drain somewhere too. Otherwise runs like a champ. Nice having some power.

I don't see any reason why that case adaptor mount wouldn't work. But i can't say for sure.

If you need any diagrams, wiring info, etc let me know. I can save you some time. Believe me, tracking down a few of these wires in the older EWDs is a bitch.

scheefdog

Wickedlester: Nice job with the wiring on your swap. I'm starting in a swap that is similar to yours and looking for wiring diagrams. Are you willing to email me what you have?

I have an 88 pickup V6 5speed and my donor is a 2000 4runner 5 speed. I found the 88 EWD that have been posted on various threads, but if you have any notes or advice I'm all ears.

wickedlester

Sure. I'll send you what i've got after work.

I think that the wiring colors are mostly the same between the 22re and 3vz in '88 but there are a few that are different.

I'm pretty sure there's a sticky that has some of the '88 V6 wiring so check that out.

dntsdad

I'll take any Ewds that you have have as well.

Hard to find good ones for 1st gen runners.

Dntsdad@comcast.net

aztoyman

I didn't use any of my AFM wires. I basically used my stock COR but wired as per my 99 donor wiring schematic. I went from an 88 22RE to 99 5 speed 3.4.


If you don't get it figured out, I have a pile of notes in the garage I can dig into. I'm home recovering from my 3rd back surgery so I have time. Just a little slow getting around.


Wiring it that way threw me off a little at first because the only time the fuel pump kicked on was when the key was turned to start position. This is normal I found out. Once the engine turns over the ECM keeps the pump running.


The stock 88 wiring turned the fuel pump on in the key on position so I thought something was wrong.


Another thing that you may want to do is wire in the A/C amplifier from the 3.4 donor so your engine will idle up when you turn your A/C on.


I used all the stock O2 sensors and CAT and maybe just got lucky because I had no problems and it's still running great.

dntsdad

More info on this would be awesome!

aztoyman

I don't think I have pics but I can check tomorrow. It really wasn't bad. I'm pretty sure you still have a power wire from the A/C switch just like the old amplifier. It still has a ground and it still has wires that connect to the thermal switch on the evap. and it still has a wire to the A/C clutch.


The difference is that the 3.4 amplifier has two wires that go to the ECM to idle up the engine instead of to the VSV and valve on the rocker cover of the 22RE. They are labeled on the engine control schematics.


There is a small cover on the A/C evap box that the amplifier mounts under. The compartment that holds the amplifier is too big for the 3.4 amplifier so I just wired it up, stuck it in there and used some foam to keep it from rattling around.


I'll try to find my notes and drawings tomorrow.....and pics if I have any.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

all you need is a basic relay and the ecu recieves a switched ground, boom idle up.

wickedlester

I'm going to try this out. Thanks, you've been really helpful.