valves
06-07-2005, 04:30 PM
#2
Contributing Member
that is may be correct for the cols set up but The adjustment should be made when warm and it is
0.008in (0.2mm) intake; and 0.12 in (3mm) exhaust. At least thats what the book says
0.008in (0.2mm) intake; and 0.12 in (3mm) exhaust. At least thats what the book says
Last edited by seaflea; 06-07-2005 at 04:31 PM.
06-08-2005, 04:49 AM
#3
Registered User
'90 toyota FSM:
intake shim lash: 0.007" - 0.011"
exhaust shim lash: 0.009" - 0.013"
Re-shimming your 3vze is a PITA if you dont have the proper tools. Get yourself a VW shim puller. You will then need some long needle nose pliers with a 45* bend in them, a nut on a string (holds the bucket down, and not shim - no jokes...lol) And finally an allen key set to index the shim/bucket down while your other hand puts the nut in with the needle nose. Take time to figure out how you will position the vw shim puller before you do any of this....
intake shim lash: 0.007" - 0.011"
exhaust shim lash: 0.009" - 0.013"
Re-shimming your 3vze is a PITA if you dont have the proper tools. Get yourself a VW shim puller. You will then need some long needle nose pliers with a 45* bend in them, a nut on a string (holds the bucket down, and not shim - no jokes...lol) And finally an allen key set to index the shim/bucket down while your other hand puts the nut in with the needle nose. Take time to figure out how you will position the vw shim puller before you do any of this....
06-08-2005, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Bumpin' Yota
'90 toyota FSM:
intake shim lash: 0.007" - 0.011"
exhaust shim lash: 0.009" - 0.013"
Re-shimming your 3vze is a PITA if you dont have the proper tools. Get yourself a VW shim puller. You will then need some long needle nose pliers with a 45* bend in them, a nut on a string (holds the bucket down, and not shim - no jokes...lol) And finally an allen key set to index the shim/bucket down while your other hand puts the nut in with the needle nose. Take time to figure out how you will position the vw shim puller before you do any of this....
intake shim lash: 0.007" - 0.011"
exhaust shim lash: 0.009" - 0.013"
Re-shimming your 3vze is a PITA if you dont have the proper tools. Get yourself a VW shim puller. You will then need some long needle nose pliers with a 45* bend in them, a nut on a string (holds the bucket down, and not shim - no jokes...lol) And finally an allen key set to index the shim/bucket down while your other hand puts the nut in with the needle nose. Take time to figure out how you will position the vw shim puller before you do any of this....
im sure he is talking about the 22re but since you are on the subject where is a good place to buy shims? also to reply to the question yes .007in .011in is for cold most guys like to adjust when the motor is warm at .008in .012in
06-08-2005, 07:47 AM
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lots of people (including me) adjust their 22RE valves to 7/11 cold. it's fine to do it that way.
(they loosen up when the engine gets hot and you end up at around 8/12 hot anyway...the problem with setting to 8/12 hot is that the engine actually cools off enough to not be "hot" anymore pretty quickly so it is actually kinda hard to get the valve cover off and get all the valves set before the engine is no longer "hot".)
further, on many 22REs, it doesn't really matter exactly where you set the valves anyway because the valve adjuster studs are worn on the bottom and, as a result, come out of adjustement by a few thousandths within a few minutes, anyway.
if you pull one of the valve adjuster studs out and look at the bottom of it and see an hourglass shaped wear pattern, you fall into that category. if you are constantly adjusting your valves and they start making noise again almost immediately, suspect this as the cause.
you can get new adjuster studs from the dealer or www.engnbldr.com.
(btw, better to have the valves a little too loose than too tight...if the exhaust valves are too tight, they don't stay seated in the head long enough to dissipate heat and you risk burning one.)
EDIT: just noticed you are from pittsburgh...what part? i live in lawrenceville and work on the southside. if you want some help putting in your new engine or wanna go wheelin' sometime, lemme know...it would be cool to meet another yotahead from around here.
(they loosen up when the engine gets hot and you end up at around 8/12 hot anyway...the problem with setting to 8/12 hot is that the engine actually cools off enough to not be "hot" anymore pretty quickly so it is actually kinda hard to get the valve cover off and get all the valves set before the engine is no longer "hot".)
further, on many 22REs, it doesn't really matter exactly where you set the valves anyway because the valve adjuster studs are worn on the bottom and, as a result, come out of adjustement by a few thousandths within a few minutes, anyway.
if you pull one of the valve adjuster studs out and look at the bottom of it and see an hourglass shaped wear pattern, you fall into that category. if you are constantly adjusting your valves and they start making noise again almost immediately, suspect this as the cause.
you can get new adjuster studs from the dealer or www.engnbldr.com.
(btw, better to have the valves a little too loose than too tight...if the exhaust valves are too tight, they don't stay seated in the head long enough to dissipate heat and you risk burning one.)
EDIT: just noticed you are from pittsburgh...what part? i live in lawrenceville and work on the southside. if you want some help putting in your new engine or wanna go wheelin' sometime, lemme know...it would be cool to meet another yotahead from around here.
Last edited by LittleRedToyota; 06-08-2005 at 07:55 AM.
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