KGnagey

I started today with a simple task of rotating my tires. I jack up the left rear wheel and remove ALL the lug nuts. I pull on the wheel and nothing happens. I yank on the wheel, truck shakes, nothing happens. I kick around the outside of the tire, then yank some more, nothing happens. What the heck, why can't I get my rear wheel off? I tried some penetrating oil around the back of the rim where it contacts the drum and also around the center hub, let soak for a bit while I go into the house and cool off a bit. I come back out repeat above steps, nothing happens. I tried the right rear and I have the same issue. My wheels are stuck to the drums or something. Has anyone else had this issue? Aside from crawling under a jacked up truck and kicking the wheel from behind, I do not plan on attempting this, what can I try? 2002 4Runner - Sport Edition. 48K miles. I have rotated my wheels about 10K miles ago but I never hads this issue.

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rimpainter.com

That is strange. A couple questions:

How does the rust situation look under the vehicle?
Are you running the stock wheels?

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snap-on

happens to me all the time.

Ive heard that beating on the sidewall can break a cord but IMO they get worse treatment from the potholes and whatnot...

i just keep beating on them with either my foot or a 3# hammer till it starts to wiggle a bit, then work it off.

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94 EX cab, 5speed, V6, locked, ARB bar, NWOR headers
92 4runner, auto, V6, OME suspension, Downey headers

KGnagey

Yeah Stock 16" alloys. Not too much rust but a little. I'll just keep pounding I guess. I think I'll borrow some jack stands from my neighbor so I won't have to worry about the jack not holding as I pound, kick, and scream. If I'm successfull I think I'll lightly sand around the center hub. It looks like thats where its sticking.

Thanks guys.

mike_d

loosen the lug nuts, put the car back on the ground, drive back and forth a couple of feet and it should break everything loose. let the weight of the truck do all the hard work for you.

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mike

'89 4Runner DLX: 2" OME rear springs, 1 5/8" RB BJ spacers, Diff Drop, 32" MT/R.
'90 4Runner SR5: Stock Suspension, 32" MT/R .
'07 4Runner SR5: 2" OME Rear Springs, Donahoe Coil Overs, Total Chaos UCA, 275/70-17 MT/R.
'76 Jeep CJ-5: 4" Lift, 33" BFG MT.
'87 Saab 900S: All stock
'99 Subaru Legacy GT: All stock

mt_goat

It's happened to me on my BMW once and it has aluminum alloy wheels. The steel parts that contact the wheel can rust and freeze up the union between the aluminum and the steel.

I got the wheels off by taking a sledge hammer and hitting the tire from the back side. After that I use a little anti-seize on the mating surfaces.

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~Dale~

93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

KGnagey

well I got them off. I think the penetrating oil need more time to sink in around the center hub. Three strong kicks and the wheel came right off. I also pulled the drum, removed and cleaned that sticking bellcrank bracket for the emergency brake. The dealership wanted $80 for just the bellcrank parts. Now cleaned, greased, and reassembled its as good as new. Easy fix and only 45 minutes of my time. Thanks guys for your suggestions.