1998 4.3 SPI with 4l60e swap.

littlecars · 11-01-2009, 09:23 AM

I can find a lot of informations on 4.3 swaps using a 700r4 but very little if any on a 4.3/4l60e swap. I am in the process of doing one and could use some help.

Hears what I have:
1998 4.3l V6, SPI. 100% stock.
matching 4l60e, with toyota 23 spline output shaft.
toyota 23 spline transfere case with 4.7 gears.

I plan on useing the stock wiring harness, ecu and possibly fuse box.

The mechanical end of it is no problem. I can bolt, weld, pry and hammer to make it fit.

But I am having trouble finding information on the wiring end of it. The ecu has 4 plugs, 3 go to the motor/tranny and one goes to the cab. the 3 to the motor/tranny are pretty simple. for the most part they dont need to be modified.

I am having troule finding out what I need to hook up where on the cab side. is there anyone out there that can help? Has anyone else done this swap? did you make your own harness?

When it is all done I want it to work like it did in the S-10 it came out of. I want the tranny to lock up when it should and unlock automatically. I want the motor to go to high idle when it is cold and work as it should. I also prefer to wire it myself. I dont want to pay someone big money for a harness when I already have one, I just dont know how to hook it up.

I also have a few question about the sencers on the motor:

1. first off the water temp senser, I want to use a toyota one so the gauge on my dash will work. I assume I need the chevy one to talk to the ECU so I cannot just disconect the chevy one and replace it with the toyota one and then wire it to the instrument cluster. I will have to add the toyota one without removing the chevy one, right?

2. Same question for the oil pressure senser? the stock chevy one is a switch and a temp senser. It looks like the switch feeds the ecu so the fuel pump will not turn on unless there is oil pressure. I am going to hardwire my fuel pump so the ECU will not be turning it on and off. so I dont care if the ECU knows if I have oil pressure or not. does the oil pressure senser/switch do anything else to the ecu? If I desconnect the chevy one will the ECU go in trouble mode or anything?

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86toylet · 11-01-2009, 09:30 AM

The oil and temp sensor are needed and will throw a code if not connected. Find a different port.

The wiring is easy and I just posted on a different thread some info. If you have the pinout for the ECU, I can tell you what to hook up.

As far as the 4l60, you will need 2 adapters from Advance. The 700R4 adapter and the tailshaft adapter. It will also come with a tailshaft and that will need to be installed.

Any other info just ask.

littlecars · 11-01-2009, 10:09 AM

I have the pinout:

1. fuel pump relay
2.
3. vss output( I think this is for the CC)
4. vss output( for the chevy speedometer)
5. MIL control ( I think I hook this to the toyota check engion light)
6.
7.
8.
9.
10. brake signal(I think this is for the CC or maybe the tranny lockup)
11. serrial data( I think this is for the OBD2 scanner)
12.
13. Ignition+ voltage
14. serial data( also for the OBD2)
15.
16. EGR valve control
17. Ignition+ voltage
18. Ignition+ voltage
19. 4wd wheel lock input
20. EGR vavle low
21.
22. CPP switch signal
23. 4wd low signal
24. Cruise engaged signal.

I have the transfere case bolted to the tranny already.

Also how will the alternater work with the stock wiring harness? it looks pretty simple, just hook up the wiring harness and the big wire goes to the battery+.

Did you use the stock chevy fuse block for powering everything?

Thanks
Brent

littlecars · 11-03-2009, 09:32 AM

Hears a few more questions.

How did you wire up the "plug-in" for the obd2 scanner? I traced the wires and it looks like it talks to a bunch of stuff I am not using. Or do I even need this? when I have a problem, I can troubleshoot it without a scanner in If have to.

Did you have any problems with the VATS ( vehical anti theft system) If I just snip off the wires and throw the box away will it throw a code? I think the VATS just makes the ecu not power up the fuel pump. I plan on powering it up another way, so If this is all it does will it be a problem?

Will I have to get the ecu reflashed? I know nothing about newer computerized cars, I have done a ton of searching on different forums for this and knowone gives the same information. I would think it would drive better if it was flashed becouse of the different tire size. witch maked different shift points. I also put a shift kit in the tranny and I had to replace the crank posistion sencer. Is this going to throw it all off?

Thanks
Brent

littlecars · 11-07-2009, 09:28 PM

Can anyone else help out a little?

littlecars · 11-10-2009, 10:56 AM

86toylet was banned. is there anyone else that can help?

I think I have came to the conclusion that I am having the ECU reflashed, to get rid of the VATS, possible the 3rd O2 sencer(the one past the cat) and maybe the EGR stuff.

Has anyone else flashed out the VATS, the 3rd O2 senser or the EGR?

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11-01-2009, 09:30 AM	#2 (permalink)
86toylet Banned 'cause I was 4runnerchevy also banned Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Santa Cruz Mountains Posts: 196	The oil and temp sensor are needed and will throw a code if not connected. Find a different port. The wiring is easy and I just posted on a different thread some info. If you have the pinout for the ECU, I can tell you what to hook up. As far as the 4l60, you will need 2 adapters from Advance. The 700R4 adapter and the tailshaft adapter. It will also come with a tailshaft and that will need to be installed. Any other info just ask.

11-01-2009, 10:09 AM	#3 (permalink)
littlecars Registered User Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Tacoma WA Posts: 10	I have the pinout: 1. fuel pump relay 2. 3. vss output( I think this is for the CC) 4. vss output( for the chevy speedometer) 5. MIL control ( I think I hook this to the toyota check engion light) 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. brake signal(I think this is for the CC or maybe the tranny lockup) 11. serrial data( I think this is for the OBD2 scanner) 12. 13. Ignition+ voltage 14. serial data( also for the OBD2) 15. 16. EGR valve control 17. Ignition+ voltage 18. Ignition+ voltage 19. 4wd wheel lock input 20. EGR vavle low 21. 22. CPP switch signal 23. 4wd low signal 24. Cruise engaged signal. I have the transfere case bolted to the tranny already. Also how will the alternater work with the stock wiring harness? it looks pretty simple, just hook up the wiring harness and the big wire goes to the battery+. Did you use the stock chevy fuse block for powering everything? Thanks Brent

11-03-2009, 09:32 AM	#4 (permalink)
littlecars Registered User Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Tacoma WA Posts: 10	Hears a few more questions. How did you wire up the "plug-in" for the obd2 scanner? I traced the wires and it looks like it talks to a bunch of stuff I am not using. Or do I even need this? when I have a problem, I can troubleshoot it without a scanner in If have to. Did you have any problems with the VATS ( vehical anti theft system) If I just snip off the wires and throw the box away will it throw a code? I think the VATS just makes the ecu not power up the fuel pump. I plan on powering it up another way, so If this is all it does will it be a problem? Will I have to get the ecu reflashed? I know nothing about newer computerized cars, I have done a ton of searching on different forums for this and knowone gives the same information. I would think it would drive better if it was flashed becouse of the different tire size. witch maked different shift points. I also put a shift kit in the tranny and I had to replace the crank posistion sencer. Is this going to throw it all off? Thanks Brent

11-07-2009, 09:28 PM	#5 (permalink)
littlecars Registered User Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Tacoma WA Posts: 10	Can anyone else help out a little?

11-10-2009, 10:56 AM	#6 (permalink)
littlecars Registered User Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Tacoma WA Posts: 10	86toylet was banned. is there anyone else that can help? I think I have came to the conclusion that I am having the ECU reflashed, to get rid of the VATS, possible the 3rd O2 sencer(the one past the cat) and maybe the EGR stuff. Has anyone else flashed out the VATS, the 3rd O2 senser or the EGR?