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#1 (permalink) | |||||
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Chelan, WA
Posts: 19
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What year truck is a good candidate for tons
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: boone, nc
Posts: 66
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id go with a 2nd or 3rd gen. more power, they are a little bigger, and with a full width crossmember up front its a pretty simple gig. Plus with a 1st gen you wouldnt have power steering to run hydro assist
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Here in the PNW
Posts: 3,265
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I would go with an ifs rig, that way you have crossover, you can get a ram and tap out your gear box to run the ram. 86-95
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. . . I said lie, for me lying under a process tree . . . . |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Suisun City, California
Posts: 355
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I would use a 4th gen with a 3rz(4cyl) or the 3.4 V6, but it sounds like money is tight. So its looking like 2nd or 3rd gen. The 2nd gen is normally cheaper, if you do get a 3rd gen just look out for the 3.0 V6
silly head gaskets.Ok now all you 3.0 guys can tell us how great they are ![]() O ya congrads on the 1tons |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Chelan, WA
Posts: 19
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Alright, thanks.
do you think its worth it to do a straight front axle swap on one of the newer ones, or should I just get the older ones that have the straight axle already. I think before 85? |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: PDX, OR
Posts: 4,720
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Quote:
, tons of 1st Gens came stock with Power steering...mine did![]() I would do a 89-94 ex cab
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~Robb '81 Trekker The B4Runner Build TREKKER Forum Mini FAQ/Misc Ideas Thread **TRY THESE SEARCH LINKS**
GOOGLE FOR TOYOTA WEBSITES LINK TO ONLINE FACTORY SERVICE MANUALS Drive a real 1st Gen Wheel Responsibly, Don't Screw It Up for Others Last edited by ocdropzone; 05-06-2009 at 07:44 AM. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: B-TOWN, ORYGUN
Posts: 431
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im with OCDROPZONE.. 86-94 xtra cab.... as far as getin a truck that came with a factory solid axle.. it really dont matter cause ur gonna have to hack everything out any way... or aleast i would if i were puttin that kinda beef under my rig. your gonna wanna do something a bit more beefy then the factory spring and shackel hangers IMO.. not to mention your gonna wanna move most that stuff anyway to accomidate longer springs and to allow for more flex and better shackel angles... its really not that much work to cut out the IFS.. took me a day to hack all of it out and smooth the frame down... and that was done with grinders and sawzalls, if you have access to a plasma or a torch it would be much faster ... GOODLUCK
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current: 1986 4Runner, Rebuilt 22RE with engnbldr HP head, cam'd, battery/intake swap, SASed, 5.29s, detroit rear, 35in MTRs, trussed and armored axles, marlin HD clutch, soon to be dual cased, TG rear bumper, Best mod todate CHROME METAL SR5 DOOR HANDLES, thats whats up RIP: 1985 Standard Cab SR5 pickup, add-a-leafs and shackels, 33" BFGs, it died a horrible death (50mph roll over) DD: 2006 Scion Tc w/TRD Supercharge and TRD stainless cat-back exhaust |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Here in the PNW
Posts: 3,265
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Yeah torch makes everything cake i remember the sawzall/grinder cuttin days.
Speaking of hangers i just whipped up this completely out of 1/4" plate it's SUPER beefy and i double passed most welds. I would recommend something of the likes because factory hangers suck and the ones you buy are way overpriced
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. . . I said lie, for me lying under a process tree . . . . |
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