Trail Gear 3'' or 4'' SAS kit picture request
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Trail Gear 3'' or 4'' SAS kit picture request
Hello!, I'm looking for pictures to help me decide what Trail Gear IFS Eliminator kit to get for my truck. I'm torn between either the 3'' kit or the 4'' kit. My truck is a 1993 with the 3.0(soon to be 3.4), 5 speed, 4.88's sitting on 33's. The largest tire I want to run is 35's. I've looked at many builds and read about other peoples setups so now I'm looking for pictures of peoples trucks or 4runners that have either the 3'' or 4'' Trail Gear IFS Eliminator kit sitting on 35's to help me decide! Any pictures or tips would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
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Either way i had the springs in my runner the top two main leafs were swapped out with allpro 4" mains which moved my axle forward a little.
My new truck had bone stock 4" tg springs in the pic i posted but i ended up swapping the mains out to ruf mains. . I will try to get pics later, the one i have doesnt show well, but it did move the axle forward a nice amount!
My new truck had bone stock 4" tg springs in the pic i posted but i ended up swapping the mains out to ruf mains. . I will try to get pics later, the one i have doesnt show well, but it did move the axle forward a nice amount!
Last edited by 904_runner; 07-23-2015 at 07:50 PM.
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I've run both
I used to have TG 3" up front but found the ride a bit stiff with my 22RE with a winch, but perhaps it would be fine for a 6cyl. However the steering box would have needed to be rotated. Also my shackle angle wasn't great despite mounting the front hanger bracket flush with the crossmember because the springs didn't settle appreciably. So I opted to get the TG 4" front set, which are slightly longer and softer. Shackle angle great, no problems with steering linkage, ride is better, but it's a bit tall. So, like anything, it's a trade-off. But I prefer my new 4" springs. I used to run 33s but will be moving up to 35s next time. It looked like 35s may have worked with the 3" lift, but I can't say for sure.
If you go with the 3" springs, don't mount them so the shackle is near vertical as those stiff springs won't settle as much as the long springs do. The rear settled fine (4" springs but now switched to 5") and changed at least 10-degrees, but the front shackle changed 5 degrees at most.
If you go with the 3" springs, don't mount them so the shackle is near vertical as those stiff springs won't settle as much as the long springs do. The rear settled fine (4" springs but now switched to 5") and changed at least 10-degrees, but the front shackle changed 5 degrees at most.
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Thank you everyone for the pictures! I'm pretty sure that I'll be going with the 3" kit! wberry85 your truck is almost exactly what I'm going for except my truck is white!
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wberry85 how did you position your front hanger? I'm assuming flush. Also did you place the tube jigs centered or forward in the body mount? Thank you so much!
#11
I mounted my front spring hanger flush with crossmember and my frame tube as far forward as the jig would let them go. If you go by TG instructions, they are the same for the 3", 4", and 5" springs. This is bad because they are different lengths and will not work and you will end up with a bad shackle angle in the front. Be sure and tack it and put load on the springs before burning it in to verify it fits because cutting it off after fully welding around the ends and gussets would be a real bitch!
Here is the passenger frame tube hole in relation to the body mount.
I used a hole saw to make the holes. I started with the torch but it made a real mess. A quality bimetal hole saw (I used a Lenox brand), plenty of cutting fluid, and a good low RPM drill will make it through the whole frame, gussets and all, and make a nice clean hole.
Here is the passenger frame tube hole in relation to the body mount.
I used a hole saw to make the holes. I started with the torch but it made a real mess. A quality bimetal hole saw (I used a Lenox brand), plenty of cutting fluid, and a good low RPM drill will make it through the whole frame, gussets and all, and make a nice clean hole.
#14
I wanted to revive this old thread because it did help me finish my SAS.
Details:
88 SR5 with 3.0l v6, 5.29’s, high pinion front, ARB locked front/rear.
trail gear standard 3” ifs eliminator kit.
chevy 63” rears with low range Offroad kit.
35” KM3’s on 15x8 wheels.
Front spring hanger mounted flush and the shackle tube as far forward as possible.
The ride is is better than factory ifs and it flexes well off road. Nothing rubs and it drive the highway with zero problems.
Details:
88 SR5 with 3.0l v6, 5.29’s, high pinion front, ARB locked front/rear.
trail gear standard 3” ifs eliminator kit.
chevy 63” rears with low range Offroad kit.
35” KM3’s on 15x8 wheels.
Front spring hanger mounted flush and the shackle tube as far forward as possible.
The ride is is better than factory ifs and it flexes well off road. Nothing rubs and it drive the highway with zero problems.
Last edited by Dark Knight; 07-11-2019 at 07:16 AM.
#15
Hd or standard
I wanted to revive this old thread because it did help me finish my SAS.
Details:
88 SR5 with 3.0l v6, 5.29’s, high pinion front, ARB locked front/rear.
trail gear standard 3” ifs eliminator kit.
chevy 63” rears with low range Offroad kit.
35” KM3’s on 15x8 wheels.
Front spring hanger mounted flush and the shackle tube as far forward as possible.
The ride is is better than factory ifs and it flexes well off road. Nothing rubs and it drive the highway with zero problems.
Details:
88 SR5 with 3.0l v6, 5.29’s, high pinion front, ARB locked front/rear.
trail gear standard 3” ifs eliminator kit.
chevy 63” rears with low range Offroad kit.
35” KM3’s on 15x8 wheels.
Front spring hanger mounted flush and the shackle tube as far forward as possible.
The ride is is better than factory ifs and it flexes well off road. Nothing rubs and it drive the highway with zero problems.
#17
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Dark Knight (03-15-2020)
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