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Hey all I have a 93 4runner with supercharged 5vz and a SAS 4" trail gear kit on 35" trepadors. Since the SAS swap I have gone through about 5 power steering pumps. I have flushed, bleed, and tried atf and power steering fluid. I even went as far as completely disassembling the reservoir and completely cleaned it out. I finally deleted the ABS and put all new lines on both pressure and return along with a in line filter after putting a NEW,not reman pump with a new reservoir. I bleed completely and carefully added ATF. It drove awesome about 50 miles to the trail but about 2 miles in the trail it began to get tough to steer and finally failed. No noises and I could dip my finger in there so I know fluid was not hot. Ideas please!? Anyone else? Last piece to replace is steering box but unsure. Also last thing, when I set the preload on the steering knuckle bearings the closest I could get to the Low range off road oversized tire recommendation was 16lbs instead of 15. I highly doubt that's it but figured I mention it. Thanks in advance guys!!
My first question is just what brand Pumps are you using??
Are these Brand New or Rebuilt ??
Rebuild quality has gone down hill over the last few years
New belt at every failure ??
You don`t really say but have all these pumps failed in the same way Bearing seized ??
Although failing bearings are seldom quiet but strange things happen .
If not just how are they failing ??
This is the important question knowing how they fail can help find the cause
1) The first 2 pumps were reman from standard motor parts, the second 2 from autozone reman dualast, and finally the last failed pump was brand new with reservoir and all
2) I have yet to replace belt as when they fail it seems It just wont pump, they do not seize. On next replacement along with pump and new steering box I will do the belt. Also I think once the engine is revved out that's when they seem to fail.
3) I will disassemble this next pump and post pictures of the internal assembly with wear see if there are any obvious signs. Thank you!
i am thinking you have a problem in how you are bleeding the pump, getting caviation and destroying pump
Hey dropzone thanks for the relpy, I have heard different methods of bleeding but what I have been doing and seems to be working (well kinda but still getting failures lol)
Once the pump is installed I jack up the front from the center and with the reservoir filled I turn the wheels from one lock to the other and at each lock hold the wheel there for about 2-3 seconds. If I have someone watch they can see bubbles (and can also hear them if its quiet) at this point I will let them fill and continue the cycle about 15-20 times or until no more bubbles are popping up.
After that is done with I put the truck on the ground and fire it up, let it run for about 3-4 minutes. It always sounds just fine. Then I began to work the wheel left to right about another 20 cycles. When this is all done I check the fluid and top off if needed. At this point I check for leaks and feel if everything looks, feels, and sounds good it is ready for use.
I can turn the wheel with tires on the concrete ground with 1 finger @ idle. If you have a better or more thorough way to bleed it please fill me in!
The pump has failed going down a straight piece of highway as I notice when I try to turn into a driveway, this is why I think it may be a problem when the engine is revved. I noticed after that those pumps seem harder to steer while at idle but are easier at lets say 2-3k RPMs, then gradually degrade and steering becomes harder and harder. Last pump (the brand new one) lasted 50 miles up the highway but failed about 3 miles up a snowy trail while in 4wd and the engine revved highly. BTW I have a Detroit locker in the front which is probably harder on the pump
Just a thought I did not have time to check on this just how are you buying the pump
Is it the steering box from the94??
For the 94 3.0 engine using the 3.0 bracket??
For the 3.4
Without looking I am not sure if the pump outputs are different
How do all the belts line up with the super charger ??
If there is tension off center in might be part of your problems
Thanks wyoming. When I did the 3.4 swap I kept the 3.4 power steering pump and have had no issues with about 65k miles and about 5 years so I kept it that way. To have the 3.4 pump connect to the 93 4runner hoses you just need the 93 banjo bolt and a little bent on the tab where it bolts. All the belts line up just fine.
Yesterday I got around to pulling the pump and disassembling. I did find some shimmering pieces of metal in the fluid so I went ahead and replaced the pump, the inline filter, the lines, and this time also swapped in a steering box. It seems that the box had been contaminated with shavings and is killing the pump out as this is where i saw the biggest amount of metal in the fluid. This time I also set the steering stops on the axle to hit just before the limit on the steering box. I hope it takes care of it I will report back results just as soon as I use it.
Hi 93N-
Maybe the old steering box had its "freeplay" adjustment adjusted way too tight. I'm not sure if that would cause the metal snowflakes in the oil but it seems like you have it nailed down and I would bet that will take care of the MAIN reason for the failures.
But what about the heat generated due to the pump seeing a steering system that does not turn as easy as on 31" tires?
Also, what if you sold that Detroit auto locker and upgraded to a ARB, or even better yet, A Harrop elocker ? http://yotalockers.com On the trails, it would sure be easier on the pump in open diff mode with 35" tires. On most trails, a front locker might only used on 1% of it....the rest you can enjoy the much easier steering and much better turning on the tight trails. Your arms will appreciate it .
I assume your SAS, you have the usual 8" from a 79 thru 85 pick-up? By the way, those are awesome looking 35's, very aggressive looking......so if you went ELECTRIC..... a #9334 harrop part number would be the ticket......from my webpage an 8" elocker install..... http://gearinstalls.com/harropandrewp97fzj80fr.htm
Just like your Detroit works for low and hi-pinion 3rds so does the Harrop
Thanks for the replies guys! Happy to say that I have about 200 miles and 60 miles of snow wheeling even had it in 2.5 - 3 ft of deep stuff and it feels great. No signs of failure. Thanks Zuk for the over on the diff, that harrop locker is the way to go, I had plans on doing the arb but was over budget at the time, now wish i would have even though the detroit locks up well! A little about how I did the SAS. Late Sept 2016 I went for a trail ride, broke the rear ring and pinion so I pulled the rear shaft and started driving down the mountain in front wheel so I popped the front diff too. I had a front axle from an 84 4runner laying around that a friend gave me several years ago. October I sourced all the parts ( Trail gear 4" front and 5" rear kit, new 4:88 gears and install kits and finally the realized i had to rebuild the entire front axle. I found on low range the high pinion diff with 488's and detroit for about what it was gonna cost me for the arb diff and ring/pinion alone so I went that route, next time I hope there really isn't, Ill use you Zuk! All the parts showed up by the end of october, every weekend in November some friends and I were on it and got everything completely done by the first weekend in December and new tires before Janurary! I couldnt be happier with the way it all turned out. Thank you all for your help and insight!!
I cheaper route to easy up steering work loads is use a twin stick on rear case. Drop in and out of 4wd as needed but maintain control and torque of low range. I use it all the time. But depends on trails you ride. Also when on harder pack dirt try to minimize steering inputs at a stand still with brakes applied. I do have a better oil cooler for power steering will install at a later date. In 10 yrs power steering is the one system I haven't done anything too.
Harrop is an awesome locker and love the design but cost a pretty penny. Prices seem to be upward of $1400 for locker alone where a twin stick is $200.
01-17-2017, 03:27 PM
Power steering pump failure after SAS
. I had a front axle from an 84 4runner laying around that a friend gave me several years ago. October I sourced all the parts ( Trail gear 4" front and 5" rear kit, new 4:88 gears and install kits and finally the realized i had to rebuild the entire front axle. I found on low range the high pinion diff with 488's and detroit for about what it was gonna cost me for the arb diff and ring/pinion alone so I went that route, next time I hope there really isn't, Ill use you Zuk! All the parts showed up by the end of october, every weekend in November some friends and I were on it and got everything completely done by the first weekend in December and new tires before Janurary!
I couldnt be happier with the way it all turned out. Thank you all for your help and insight!!
