My SAS

SMOD · 06-27-2009, 10:48 AM

I already have cut the front up and grind it all clean. I just got a welder too and I'll be welding up frame plates soon.

I'm missing a few things here and there. I actually am broke and I need to get my beast back on the road. If anyone can give me some front leaf hanger bolts, trunion bearings, shock bolts, the red and black part for the manual hub, seals for the front axle.. I'll take anything. lol.

I don't have pics yet but I will post some asap.

I'm going to be running 37in. MTR's on cragar black soft 8's. 529s. open diffs for time being until I upgrade later. 63" chevys in rear. 14" Bilsteins 5125s. Rancho RS 44044 springs up front. Birf eliminator kit. 6 shooter knuckles with hi steer. etc etc..

I am also looking for a free rear leaf sprung axle housing, and bearings for rear axle, ring gear for 529 (I have an extra pinion), U bolt flips for the rear, leaf spring bolts, shock tabs, rear shock relocation..

Any help would be appreciated.

Yotatech has already helped me out greatly and the site is awesome! Everyone has been a real help.

Thanks, Scott

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whokrz · 06-27-2009, 11:16 AM

6 shooter arms are longer than standard hysteer arms, I am referring to the distance from the trunnion post to tie rod end. This could cause problems with the drag link and the tie rod making contact. It could also make contact with the leaf spring if you run a lot of lift.
The Toyota trunnion cap does not go into the bottom of their knuckle very easily like it should.
The knuckle on the driver side does not have proper clearance in order use a torque wrench on the lower caliper bolt.
They do have a bolt for removing the arm which is nice.
They are much larger than standard hysteer and knuckles which hopefully translates to extra strength.

These are the observations that I made when going from Sky's hysteer to six shooter knuckles and arms. I did not have any trouble clearing everything because my steering box is moved so far forward and I don't have a lot of lift, however it has caused some people trouble. I would make sure that you have the six shooter knuckles while you are mocking up your steering and suspension.

Please if you do not already know how to weld, practice on some scrap metal until you think it looks good, then take the welded scrap metal to a welding shop to have it inspected. I have seen people with poor welds on there trucks which are being driven on the street, poor welds can break off road which would suck or on the highway which could be deadly.

Hope this all helps
Lewis

BLKNBLU · 06-27-2009, 12:31 PM

Seems I also heard that the 6 shooter knuckles also turned out to be no better than the original design. I'll see if I can find that again.
(and that the 5th stud mod is probably more useful)

85excab · 06-27-2009, 02:07 PM

my 5th stud tech
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index...=54514.new#new

**waskillywabbit** · 06-27-2009, 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whokrz

6 shooter arms are longer than standard hysteer arms, I am referring to the distance from the trunnion post to tie rod end. This could cause problems with the drag link and the tie rod making contact. It could also make contact with the leaf spring if you run a lot of lift.
The Toyota trunnion cap does not go into the bottom of their knuckle very easily like it should.
The knuckle on the driver side does not have proper clearance in order use a torque wrench on the lower caliper bolt.
They do have a bolt for removing the arm which is nice.
They are much larger than standard hysteer and knuckles which hopefully translates to extra strength.

If your steering box is moved forward like it should be you won't have any drag link/ tie rod issues.

I've installed 4 sets of 6 shooter knuckles/steering arms and had NO problems whatsoever.

scuba · 06-27-2009, 06:28 PM

Hub parts ?

Shipping and their yours..

SMOD · 06-28-2009, 12:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waskillywabbit

If your steering box is moved forward like it should be you won't have any drag link/ tie rod issues.

I've installed 4 sets of 6 shooter knuckles/steering arms and had NO problems whatsoever.

Well my buddy and I are practicing with my new welder and we haven't started welding up the frame yet. I'm gunna practice and practice until I can weld fairly decent and safely.

But anyway umm we were gunna try to leave the steering box in the same place so I wouldn't have to cut the body mount up. Is it absolutely necessary to move it forward? I'm going to be running about 11in or so lift with the ranchos and 6in shackles with the shackle hanger under frame.

Thanks for the help so far everyone.

PS I'm still looking for free parts lol.

Thanks Scuba for your help.

scuba · 06-28-2009, 08:59 PM

Scott, Looks like the dial and faceplate I have are in working order. I was able to find the ball bearing and spring as well as the dial's o ring.
Other then the fact the o ring isnt in the greatest condition its ready to drop on.
You said you need the 6 bolts that keep the faceplate to the hub body yes ?

I should have those to.

Since I trust you as a buyer ill get it shipped out tomorrow and shoot you a txt, you can paypal me the shipping next payday..
Kool ?

TOYOTA 1 · 06-28-2009, 09:18 PM

I'm not a 100% positive but i think gears only work as a "set"..

i.e. i don't think you can use a motive pinion on a yukon ring, i think they need to be a matched set.

SMOD · 06-28-2009, 11:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scuba

Scott, Looks like the dial and faceplate I have are in working order. I was able to find the ball bearing and spring as well as the dial's o ring.
Other then the fact the o ring isnt in the greatest condition its ready to drop on.
You said you need the 6 bolts that keep the faceplate to the hub body yes ?

I should have those to.

Since I trust you as a buyer ill get it shipped out tomorrow and shoot you a txt, you can paypal me the shipping next payday..
Kool ?

Sounds perfect man. Oh and yeah I do need the bolts.
Thanks a ton!

SMOD · 06-28-2009, 11:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TOYOTA 1

I'm not a 100% positive but i think gears only work as a "set"..

i.e. i don't think you can use a motive pinion on a yukon ring, i think they need to be a matched set.

Oh I see. That sucks! lol.

SMOD · 07-11-2009, 10:57 AM

So is it true that the ring and pinion are a matched set or can I get just a ring gear for the pinion I already have (which is a yukon 529 pinion). ????????

LTrunner · 07-11-2009, 11:29 AM

not a good idea...ring and pinions are a macthed set

SMOD · 07-22-2009, 09:53 PM

Here's a little update on my truck. I really wish I could post pics but some one stole my digital camera that I spent a good amount on to get a nicer one. It really sucks and pisses me off. I'm going to confront the guy I think stole it IF I ever see him again.

We finished the front end but we will most likely have to move the steering box forward which is a b#@ch. The dang shackle hangers were welded on just a lil off.. and one of the shackle angles is a lil different than the other one which is very sad.

We put the 37s on up front and it looks really good. I still have to put the manual hub dial in right and grease it up. But it doesn't matter because I don't have a driveshaft yet. lol.

As for the rear I started chopping it up yesterday with the torch. There is one particular bracket next to the gas tank I am sketch about so my buddy Scuba suggested a cutting wheel for my angle grinder! I'm gunna pick one up at the local hardware store asap.

I still need a few parts like rear axle housing or leaf spring perches, dom tube, gears and a few other things but they will come soon hopefully.

I have around 7 pics on my phone. So if anyone can receive picture message on their cell phone text me @ 530-575-9625.

Thanks

SMOD · 10-07-2009, 01:52 PM

Ok I'll try this thread. I just realized I made two threads about the same thing.

I'm a dumass. lol. Anyway. Can some people check out my welds? They are in my photo gallery. Here is a link. I'm just wondering if they look ok.. Its the first time I've welded so I'm not 100% sure.

http://www.yotatech.com/album.php?albumid=1060

SMOD · 10-08-2009, 01:42 PM

Oh PS - I didn't do that shackle hanger, a buddy did.

SMOD · 10-08-2009, 02:09 PM

oh I see how it is. I'm shunned now huh. I know I suck so I understand. I can't even afford rear gears. That pathetic huh. But im going to college to get a degree! or going to the academy.

runnerboyy · 10-11-2009, 08:00 PM

did the ifs junk you cut off have lock out hubs? if so the lock out portion is interchangeable with the solid axle lockouts.

whokrz · 10-12-2009, 05:51 PM

If you had small bubbles in the weld caused by not enough gas or contaminants such as paint then the welds will be weak. If you noticed them when you were welding I would cut out the weld and redo it.

Heat penetration is also important but because of the paint it can not be seen. In this picture you can see the heat marks around the weld which means that it got hot enough. If you did not see these marks caused by the heat I would redo them because it may not have bonded properly.

These welds look pretty good but it is hard to say because of the paint.

This weld looks like it has bubbles in it.

This weld I would be concerned about proper penetration mainly because of the flow.

runnerboyy · 10-12-2009, 06:25 PM

why didnt you cut a hole in the frame and weld the tube in instead of what you did in the last picture?? i honestly think that that will not hold the way it is!

whokrz · 10-12-2009, 06:39 PM

Other things I would be worried about.

I would be very concerned about developing stress cracks where the extender and the frame meet. The shackle hanger extenders give the spring a lot of side to side leverage on the frame. This will occur as one tire is stuffed up and the other drops down. If you plan on keeping the shackle extenders I would highly recommend connecting the two extenders so that it looks similar to the front drop hanger. This will stop the leverage on the frame and spread the load across the frame.
A better route may be to run S10 for F150 springs in the rear. They flex well and will provide the lift that you are looking for with out shackle hanger extenders. Unfortunately this would involve relocating the spring and shackle hangers.

There is not very much contact to frame where the shackle tube connects. I would be concerned about developing stress cracks because the load is not spread out over a larger area. I would recommend putting the shackle tubes threw the frame. This will be a lot stronger and will improve steering angles.
If for some reason you have to run it down there I would add two gussets on either side of the tube then connect the gussets with a plate to box them in. This would basically extend the frame down and provide support.

Here is a picture with it threw the frame.

I noticed that your front hanger is moved forward.
If running the shackle tube threw the frame would give you a bad shackle angle because the 44044s are to short you could try running a 51" toyota rear. My front hanger is about as far forward as yours, the shackle tube is threw the frame with 51" rears. My shackle angle is about 45deg.

runnerboyy · 10-12-2009, 06:56 PM

if you were worried about the shackle hitting your body mount, it is fine to trim it.

SMOD · 10-13-2009, 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whokrz

Other things I would be worried about.

I would be very concerned about developing stress cracks where the extender and the frame meet. The shackle hanger extenders give the spring a lot of side to side leverage on the frame. This will occur as one tire is stuffed up and the other drops down. If you plan on keeping the shackle extenders I would highly recommend connecting the two extenders so that it looks similar to the front drop hanger. This will stop the leverage on the frame and spread the load across the frame.
A better route may be to run S10 for F150 springs in the rear. They flex well and will provide the lift that you are looking for with out shackle hanger extenders. Unfortunately this would involve relocating the spring and shackle hangers.

There is not very much contact to frame where the shackle tube connects. I would be concerned about developing stress cracks because the load is not spread out over a larger area. I would recommend putting the shackle tubes threw the frame. This will be a lot stronger and will improve steering angles.
If for some reason you have to run it down there I would add two gussets on either side of the tube then connect the gussets with a plate to box them in. This would basically extend the frame down and provide support.

Here is a picture with it threw the frame.

I noticed that your front hanger is moved forward.
If running the shackle tube threw the frame would give you a bad shackle angle because the 44044s are to short you could try running a 51" toyota rear. My front hanger is about as far forward as yours, the shackle tube is threw the frame with 51" rears. My shackle angle is about 45deg.

First of all I'd like to thank everyone for helping me out with this. It is really helping.

So.. The front shackle hanger I was thinking of welding some braces on that sort of look like this \o/ and I grinded that weld down and it looks like my buddy just kept adding layers on it. lol. I think it may hold. I will take another pic of it and more of the welds on my truck. And I decided to weld the tube uder the frame instead of thru it because I wanted a little more lift. I modeled mine after someone I used to know truck and after his rancho 44044 settled his pinion angle wasn't too bad. So I think I may wait to see how the pinion angle is after my springs fully settle before I decide to go thru the frame.

The rear frame extension I have a tube cut out and I was going to weld that to either piece and gusset it up.

My buddy also threw out the idea of flexing it all over this ramp his buddy has and see what welds break and which hold. I thought it sounded like a good idea. It's probably the least I can do before I take it out wheeling...

Thanks

SMOD · 10-13-2009, 01:32 PM

The rear frame extender brace may look like this if you will.. ]\------------------/[
[ or ] = frame extender. --- = tube. / or \ = gusset.

SMOD · 10-13-2009, 01:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by runnerboyy

if you were worried about the shackle hitting your body mount, it is fine to trim it.

Yeah I was kindda worried about that too.. but i've heard that its ok to trim a little and not much is needed to be cut. As far as the shackle hanger maybe gussets that look like this may work? \o/

06-27-2009, 12:31 PM	#3 (permalink)
BLKNBLU Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Gilbert, Arizona Posts: 1,666	Seems I also heard that the 6 shooter knuckles also turned out to be no better than the original design. I'll see if I can find that again. (and that the 5th stud mod is probably more useful) __________________ 86 4Runner, custom Sonoran Steel rear bumper, 4Crawler 1" body lift, rock sliders from Richard Stubbs, rear Lockright, SAS w/ARB My build thread. http://www.yotatech.com/f66/blknblu-s-sac-155872/

06-27-2009, 02:07 PM	#4 (permalink)
85excab Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Grand Junction, Co Posts: 457	my 5th stud tech http://board.marlincrawler.com/index...=54514.new#new __________________ i drive by brail. Rock Solid Motorsports http://www.rocksolidmotorsports.net/ http://www.lunatic4x4.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=45

06-27-2009, 06:28 PM	#6 (permalink)
scuba Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: WHEELIN BIG BEAR Posts: 6,968	Hub parts ? Shipping and their yours.. __________________ Screw you guys I'm goin to TTORA Mods, please be mature and leave my sig alone, thanks. No, I will not be your friend.

06-28-2009, 08:59 PM	#8 (permalink)
scuba Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: WHEELIN BIG BEAR Posts: 6,968	Scott, Looks like the dial and faceplate I have are in working order. I was able to find the ball bearing and spring as well as the dial's o ring. Other then the fact the o ring isnt in the greatest condition its ready to drop on. You said you need the 6 bolts that keep the faceplate to the hub body yes ? I should have those to. Since I trust you as a buyer ill get it shipped out tomorrow and shoot you a txt, you can paypal me the shipping next payday.. Kool ? __________________ Screw you guys I'm goin to TTORA Mods, please be mature and leave my sig alone, thanks. No, I will not be your friend.

07-11-2009, 10:57 AM	#12 (permalink)
SMOD Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: CA Posts: 334	So is it true that the ring and pinion are a matched set or can I get just a ring gear for the pinion I already have (which is a yukon 529 pinion). ???????? __________________ 92 Japan made 4Runner SR5 - SAS. Rear Chevy 63's. 6in. wider wheel base. 6 shooter knuckles and hysteer. 14in Bilsteins. Flowmaster. and more :) My photo album http://www.yotatech.com/album.php?u=42437

06-27-2009, 11:16 AM	#2 (permalink)
whokrz Registered User Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Suisun City, California Posts: 342	6 shooter arms are longer than standard hysteer arms, I am referring to the distance from the trunnion post to tie rod end. This could cause problems with the drag link and the tie rod making contact. It could also make contact with the leaf spring if you run a lot of lift. The Toyota trunnion cap does not go into the bottom of their knuckle very easily like it should. The knuckle on the driver side does not have proper clearance in order use a torque wrench on the lower caliper bolt. They do have a bolt for removing the arm which is nice. They are much larger than standard hysteer and knuckles which hopefully translates to extra strength. These are the observations that I made when going from Sky's hysteer to six shooter knuckles and arms. I did not have any trouble clearing everything because my steering box is moved so far forward and I don't have a lot of lift, however it has caused some people trouble. I would make sure that you have the six shooter knuckles while you are mocking up your steering and suspension. Please if you do not already know how to weld, practice on some scrap metal until you think it looks good, then take the welded scrap metal to a welding shop to have it inspected. I have seen people with poor welds on there trucks which are being driven on the street, poor welds can break off road which would suck or on the highway which could be deadly. Hope this all helps Lewis

07-11-2009, 11:29 AM	#13 (permalink)
LTrunner Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: spfld, MA Posts: 394	not a good idea...ring and pinions are a macthed set __________________ 1989 4runner 3.0L,5spd swaped,Marlin HD clucth,v6 to gear t-case,dual case x-member,chevy 63's,1" blocks,u-blot flip,shock trianglation,Marlin rear bumper,sliders,1"body lift,soft top,welded rear,steelies,33"BFG MTs,SAS frt w/ RUF--->http://www.yotatech.com/f116/my-very...runner-143762/ Destination...OFF ROAD

07-22-2009, 09:53 PM	#14 (permalink)
SMOD Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: CA Posts: 334	Here's a little update on my truck. I really wish I could post pics but some one stole my digital camera that I spent a good amount on to get a nicer one. It really sucks and pisses me off. I'm going to confront the guy I think stole it IF I ever see him again. We finished the front end but we will most likely have to move the steering box forward which is a b#@ch. The dang shackle hangers were welded on just a lil off.. and one of the shackle angles is a lil different than the other one which is very sad. We put the 37s on up front and it looks really good. I still have to put the manual hub dial in right and grease it up. But it doesn't matter because I don't have a driveshaft yet. lol. As for the rear I started chopping it up yesterday with the torch. There is one particular bracket next to the gas tank I am sketch about so my buddy Scuba suggested a cutting wheel for my angle grinder! I'm gunna pick one up at the local hardware store asap. I still need a few parts like rear axle housing or leaf spring perches, dom tube, gears and a few other things but they will come soon hopefully. I have around 7 pics on my phone. So if anyone can receive picture message on their cell phone text me @ 530-575-9625. Thanks __________________ 92 Japan made 4Runner SR5 - SAS. Rear Chevy 63's. 6in. wider wheel base. 6 shooter knuckles and hysteer. 14in Bilsteins. Flowmaster. and more :) My photo album http://www.yotatech.com/album.php?u=42437

10-07-2009, 01:52 PM	#15 (permalink)
SMOD Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: CA Posts: 334	Ok I'll try this thread. I just realized I made two threads about the same thing. I'm a dumass. lol. Anyway. Can some people check out my welds? They are in my photo gallery. Here is a link. I'm just wondering if they look ok.. Its the first time I've welded so I'm not 100% sure. http://www.yotatech.com/album.php?albumid=1060 __________________ 92 Japan made 4Runner SR5 - SAS. Rear Chevy 63's. 6in. wider wheel base. 6 shooter knuckles and hysteer. 14in Bilsteins. Flowmaster. and more :) My photo album http://www.yotatech.com/album.php?u=42437

10-08-2009, 01:42 PM	#16 (permalink)
SMOD Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: CA Posts: 334	Oh PS - I didn't do that shackle hanger, a buddy did. __________________ 92 Japan made 4Runner SR5 - SAS. Rear Chevy 63's. 6in. wider wheel base. 6 shooter knuckles and hysteer. 14in Bilsteins. Flowmaster. and more :) My photo album http://www.yotatech.com/album.php?u=42437

10-08-2009, 02:09 PM	#17 (permalink)
SMOD Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: CA Posts: 334	oh I see how it is. I'm shunned now huh. I know I suck so I understand. I can't even afford rear gears. That pathetic huh. But im going to college to get a degree! or going to the academy. __________________ 92 Japan made 4Runner SR5 - SAS. Rear Chevy 63's. 6in. wider wheel base. 6 shooter knuckles and hysteer. 14in Bilsteins. Flowmaster. and more :) My photo album http://www.yotatech.com/album.php?u=42437

10-11-2009, 08:00 PM	#18 (permalink)
runnerboyy Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: cookeville tn Posts: 52	did the ifs junk you cut off have lock out hubs? if so the lock out portion is interchangeable with the solid axle lockouts.

10-12-2009, 05:51 PM	#19 (permalink)
whokrz Registered User Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Suisun City, California Posts: 342	If you had small bubbles in the weld caused by not enough gas or contaminants such as paint then the welds will be weak. If you noticed them when you were welding I would cut out the weld and redo it. Heat penetration is also important but because of the paint it can not be seen. In this picture you can see the heat marks around the weld which means that it got hot enough. If you did not see these marks caused by the heat I would redo them because it may not have bonded properly. These welds look pretty good but it is hard to say because of the paint. This weld looks like it has bubbles in it. This weld I would be concerned about proper penetration mainly because of the flow. __________________ 1990 4runner, 22re, R151, 4.7, 5.29s, E-locker front, Lock-Rite rear, 37" MTRs, 51" rears all around Trail Reviews http://www.gentryoffroad.com Toyota Factory Service Manuals http://ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

10-12-2009, 06:25 PM	#20 (permalink)
runnerboyy Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: cookeville tn Posts: 52	why didnt you cut a hole in the frame and weld the tube in instead of what you did in the last picture?? i honestly think that that will not hold the way it is!

10-12-2009, 06:39 PM	#21 (permalink)
whokrz Registered User Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Suisun City, California Posts: 342	Other things I would be worried about. I would be very concerned about developing stress cracks where the extender and the frame meet. The shackle hanger extenders give the spring a lot of side to side leverage on the frame. This will occur as one tire is stuffed up and the other drops down. If you plan on keeping the shackle extenders I would highly recommend connecting the two extenders so that it looks similar to the front drop hanger. This will stop the leverage on the frame and spread the load across the frame. A better route may be to run S10 for F150 springs in the rear. They flex well and will provide the lift that you are looking for with out shackle hanger extenders. Unfortunately this would involve relocating the spring and shackle hangers. There is not very much contact to frame where the shackle tube connects. I would be concerned about developing stress cracks because the load is not spread out over a larger area. I would recommend putting the shackle tubes threw the frame. This will be a lot stronger and will improve steering angles. If for some reason you have to run it down there I would add two gussets on either side of the tube then connect the gussets with a plate to box them in. This would basically extend the frame down and provide support. Here is a picture with it threw the frame. I noticed that your front hanger is moved forward. If running the shackle tube threw the frame would give you a bad shackle angle because the 44044s are to short you could try running a 51" toyota rear. My front hanger is about as far forward as yours, the shackle tube is threw the frame with 51" rears. My shackle angle is about 45deg. __________________ 1990 4runner, 22re, R151, 4.7, 5.29s, E-locker front, Lock-Rite rear, 37" MTRs, 51" rears all around Trail Reviews http://www.gentryoffroad.com Toyota Factory Service Manuals http://ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

10-12-2009, 06:56 PM	#22 (permalink)
runnerboyy Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: cookeville tn Posts: 52	if you were worried about the shackle hitting your body mount, it is fine to trim it.

10-13-2009, 01:32 PM	#24 (permalink)
SMOD Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: CA Posts: 334	The rear frame extender brace may look like this if you will.. ]\------------------/[ [ or ] = frame extender. --- = tube. / or \ = gusset. __________________ 92 Japan made 4Runner SR5 - SAS. Rear Chevy 63's. 6in. wider wheel base. 6 shooter knuckles and hysteer. 14in Bilsteins. Flowmaster. and more :) My photo album http://www.yotatech.com/album.php?u=42437 Last edited by SMOD; 10-13-2009 at 01:34 PM.

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