YOTA666

Hey guys, im about to start on my first SAS and I was just wondering what is involved in moving the axle forward? Is it just a matter of moving the hanger forward and moving the rear shackle mounts forward as well? I've got a trailgear 5" HD sas kit so I dont wanna go forward so much that I can't use the steering system that comes with it. thanks!

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88 4RUNNER- 3.slow, Centerforce clutch, 2 inch body lift, s10 lowering blocks converted to lift blocks, Trail Mart SAS, trussed/armoured, 36" TSL's, pro comp 15x10 steelies.

Toyotero

I've not done a SAS yet, but from what I've seen, you'll probably have to move your steering box forward so that the drag link and tie rod don't hit.. or worse the pitman and tie rod...

Alternatively, you can get a flat pitman arm that might help (Cruiser pitman maybe) or a shorter one.. of course, then you'll have 3 pt turns at every corner...

Or who knows, with 5" springs, draglink/tierod, clearance might not be a problem depending on your driver's side articulation when compressed.

Don't forget to check the slip yoke on the drive shaft... 2" forward on the axle will required almost 2" on the drive shaft to keep the same yoke position you have now.

- Toyotero.

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- El Toyotero
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4Crawler

Right off the bat, those springs will move your axle forward 2" as compared to using a stock front leaf spring. To go farther, you'll move the front hanger forward on the frame, I think most of the kits offer stock and 1" forward mounting options. Then you'll probably need to move your steering box forward on the frame as far as it can go.

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1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs or 35x12.50 MTRs
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YOTA666

alright i think im just gonna do it according to the instructions for the first time lol. Thanks for the help!

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88 4RUNNER- 3.slow, Centerforce clutch, 2 inch body lift, s10 lowering blocks converted to lift blocks, Trail Mart SAS, trussed/armoured, 36" TSL's, pro comp 15x10 steelies.

fillsrunner4

At the bottom of my sig is a link to my build threads the 4.3 build on the last or second to last page tells you and shows you how to do this. Gotta search this stuff cause the info is out there

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94' toyota 4runner (Many a change!) purchased bone stock, NOW... SAS, 39" Iroks, Rear Leafswap, 5.29's , Air locked front, Welded rear, Chevy 4.3L V6, 5spd swap, dual T/C's MC10R10, flatbelly with custom skids, sliders, Chopped, Bobbed and so much more.

Might as well start reading this if ya want know more
Fillsrunner4 3.4crawler Build Thread
Fillsrunner4.3 crawler (Part Two) build thread

4RunnerKid

you can also re-drill the perches for another 1.5" or so... i almost guarantee you'll have to move your steering box though

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-Mikey-

1993 4Runner ~ TG HD/RUF front | All Pro rear | 37" Krawlers | Marlin UM06s | 12" King 2.5s | 2" air bumps | 12" Fox 2.0s | Aussie front | Lock-Right rear | 5-speed swap | TG 4.7s | 5.29s | 4xInnovations cage | bumpers | sliders | t-case skid | K&N intake | Flowmaster 40 | Optima red top | clear lenses | PIAA 1400s | LED rock lights | PIAA superwhites | stereo


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