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#1 (permalink) | |||||
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 7
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Front driveshaft pinion angle
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 391
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Dual t-cases would be another option. Otherwise, you might be able to shim it. but, IMO, it doesn't look that bad. Perhaps get another opinion?
edit: Check this out too, last page. Rage's angle doesn't look any better than yours.
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Nate 1993 3.0 Pickup - 4" lift, 33x10.50s BFG KM1s. 1995 4.5L FZJ80 - OME springs, Locked. Nitto Terra Graplers. Sold: 1993 3.0 4Runner - Fj80 Coils, 1.5" BJ Spacers 1987 2.4 4Runner / SAS'd / Got it Running!/ Project truck... Just bought my FZJ80... Last edited by Ardent; 05-14-2009 at 09:27 PM. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Beale AFB Ca ( Marysville)
Posts: 272
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don't sweat it man, just get your driveshaft made or make a square one yourself and enjoy it.
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I did have a 1990 X-cab P/U, 3.0 SAS'd w/ 3" Trail Gear IFS Eliminator Kit, 4" Trail Gear Rear Lift Kit, 35" KM2s, Yukon 4.88s, Locked Front and Rear w/ Aussie and a Detroit, Sliders, M-8000 Warn Winch, But I sold it |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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You can cut and turn your knuckles. You can try to find a High pinion third member. Go dual cases. Lower you tcase and tranny. Do a combination of all of the above.
Depends on funds and how anal you want to be about doing it right. I went with a High pinion third and dual cases and it worked out great. Getting that driveshaft angle as close to ideal as you can will save you headaches (and money) in the long run. Just my .02$ though. Lot's of people just run them with a huge amount of angle.
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1995 Toyota PU SR5. 2000 3.4l V6 and a few other mods. my album: http://www.yotatech.com/album.php?albumid=101 my SAS: http://picasaweb.google.com/areinhol...eat=directlink www.overlandcanada.ca www.alltracwagon.net Last edited by neoworm0; 05-15-2009 at 06:57 AM. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator-Sponsoring Member
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WabFab Off-Road, LLC MySpace 7th Annual South East 4Runner Jamboree, 2010 The toughest part of a Jeep is the chick driving it. WabFab Off-Road 4th Anniversary Sale |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 7
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cool, good input. Went to the driveshaft shop today and was told all the same things. I think I am going to get one made for now. After I get tired of it breaking I will resort to cut and rotate. Just Spent a lot on the SAS, lockers, and other parts on the truck that this will have to wait. I definately want to do it right eventually, I am anal like that since I work on Mercedes all day long. Plus the Mustang project is on the front burner this month.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Windsor/Greeley, CO
Posts: 1,179
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Run a cut down rear shaft up front and ditch the CV shaft. The stock IFS CV is only good to 21*. The solid axle CVs are good to 35*. But, the rear non-CV style setups are good to 41*. You need the non-CV style. Especially with a V6.
You need to redrill your front flange on the Tcase side or buy a triple drilled flange. You'll also need a long travel slip joint on the shaft to keep it from over extending and pulling itself apart. 99% of driveshaft places don't use or have access to Toyota flanges and joints. They try to make a standard U.S. style joint and flange to work. Plain and simple is that those U.S. style setups don't have enough clearance to work. So, go grab a rear shaft out of a 4cyl truck or 4runner, and have it retubed along with the longer slip joint. Its the only "real" option you have. If they tell you all they have is a 1310 joint, then don't let them do it. Have them rebuild a Toyota shaft ONLY.
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Scotty http://www.addictedoffroad.com/ 970-420-4198 Toyota Winch bumpers on SALE! Last edited by ScottyC; 06-04-2009 at 11:03 PM. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 7
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awesome advice because they were telling me to do the 1310 joint. I have already purchased a longer slip joint for it so I am already half way there. I am probably going to hit the junkyard this weekend for that shaft. I did request for toyota parts when I was at both the driveshaft shops and they both just laughed at me... kinda made me mad about the whole deal and that is why my truck is still sitting with one driveshaft. I will let yall know how it works out!
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#9 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Gods Country British Columbia
Posts: 19
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What do the longer slip joints come in?
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88 4RUNNER- 3.slow, Centerforce clutch, 2 inch body lift, s10 lowering blocks converted to lift blocks, Trail Mart SAS, trussed/armoured, 36" TSL's, pro comp 15x10 steelies. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 7
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got it as a kit from all-pro offroad
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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Windsor/Greeley, CO
Posts: 1,179
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All-Pro or Trail-Gear both have them.
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Scotty http://www.addictedoffroad.com/ 970-420-4198 Toyota Winch bumpers on SALE! |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Longmont, CO
Posts: 8,376
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If you're having it retubed, ask for heavy wall. Mine are .090" and holding up really well.
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Check out www.coTTORA.org to hook up with great Toyota 'wheelin' folks! Current - 93 4Runner: 3VZ 33"x10.50" no lift ARB F/R 96 Impala SS: My own personal cop car Previous - 89 2WD Pickup 22R, Fabtech "Ivan Dan" lift, 31x10.50, IASCA World Finals 4th Place Stop with the mods and get on the trail! Pix at www.4wheelingoh.shutterfly.com/action |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Winston-Salem,NC
Posts: 1
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Feelin your pain,check this out
I'm in the same boat with my rig, and heard the same things from the local drive line shop, i did some research and found this http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/cvmod/ haven' tried it yet but plan to.
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I don't care about the "jeep" thing, as long as I get my mail on time. |
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