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Old 04-13-2007, 04:00 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Adjusting camber on solid axle

It has come to my attention that my camber is out on my front axle, and I have no idea how to adjust it...anyone?

Looks like the rear end of a baja bug...

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Old 04-13-2007, 04:05 PM   #2 (permalink)
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shims on the axel?
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Old 04-13-2007, 04:06 PM   #3 (permalink)
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yeah, but where?? on the bottom and top of the knuckle??
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Old 04-13-2007, 06:10 PM   #4 (permalink)
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yeah, but where?? on the bottom and top of the knuckle??
The shims on the knucke bearings only adjust the centering of the axle shaft/birfield inside the housing. I have seen (on eBay) some camber shims that go behind the spindle (in the ~$250 range as I recall) and there are also some offset knuckle bearings I have seen to do the same thing (basically adjust the king kin angle). Probably about the same price range as you need to change out all 4 bearings with the special parts.
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Old 04-13-2007, 06:45 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Wow - that's great news, I had always heard the camber wasn't adjustable.

Make sure the housing isn't bent!
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Old 04-13-2007, 06:54 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Make sure the housing isn't bent!
If its not make sure to truss the top of it
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Old 04-13-2007, 07:28 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Actually trussing the top of the axle is not near as important as the knuckle ball gussets as that is where the axle is most likely to bend.

I just finally got all mine back together tonight...dang I feel old.

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Old 04-14-2007, 02:51 PM   #8 (permalink)
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It must be the toe that is out. If my axle was bent the wheels would go like this / \ not like they are now \ /

I just need to get it up on the alignment rack at work.....
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Old 04-14-2007, 03:07 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Easy enough to measure the toe in without an alignment rack:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...html#Alignment
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Old 04-14-2007, 06:32 PM   #10 (permalink)
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thats a great tip 4crawler
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Oh, after a consult with Mr. Anheuser, I think I beer-stormed a way to test the gears
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Old 04-14-2007, 06:34 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Yes, I usually just use a tape measure across the tires, pick a pair of matching points on the tread and measure between the two points. You can roll the truck back or forward 1/2 rotation to get the same points, or I usually just measure off the same tread points in the rear.
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Old 04-15-2007, 09:24 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Actually trussing the top of the axle is not near as important as the knuckle ball gussets as that is where the axle is most likely to bend.
x2 - I think that Molly's is slightly bent there and that's why we had trouble getting the Longs installed...
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Old 04-15-2007, 04:01 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Yes, I usually just use a tape measure across the tires, pick a pair of matching points on the tread and measure between the two points. You can roll the truck back or forward 1/2 rotation to get the same points, or I usually just measure off the same tread points in the rear.
not that i meant the clamping a bar the same width as the tire to the rotor and measuring...nice idea....with the larger tires (especially bias) there is no way there would be an even measuring point on the lugs that i can see
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Oh, after a consult with Mr. Anheuser, I think I beer-stormed a way to test the gears
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Old 04-15-2007, 04:46 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Yes, most accurate is the bars on the brake discs, but for a quick check, the tape across the tires works fine. I find the BFG MT tread pattern is quite accurate for doing it this way. But when I had my old TSL-SX Swampers, had to use the bars. I do find that you sometimes get a little toe in change with the weight on the tires.
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Old 11-01-2009, 08:46 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I am in the process of rebuilding my knuckles, i see no signs of my axle being bent. my passenger side tire was wearing very fast on the outside, is this a problem that 4 new bearings is going to fix or are the off set bearings still going to be needed. I have thoroughly confused myself looking through posts on the subject. Also is there any special tricks on setting the knuckle bearing preload without the special toyota tool. is it just as simple as noting down what shims were where and putting back in the right order i have marlins rebuild kit with new shims.
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Old 11-01-2009, 11:01 PM   #16 (permalink)
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If camber is off, something is bent or a very worn. Camber shims that go behind the spindle are great for drum brake vehicles. If you use them on your Toy, you will change the disc angle but the caliper will stay put leaving the pads cocked against the rotor.
Set toe and eyeball your camber. A lot of older shops will straighten an axle. The offset camber/caster knuckle bearings will do the job but you will have slightly smaller bearings in there which I don't like. I doubt the quality of those bearings too.

If you jack up your front axle and spray paint a white line down the tread while the tire is turning and then scribe a line into that fresh paint you can easily set the toe with a damn near perfect reference line front and back of the tire. Just measure at the same height front and back if camber is way off. Be sure the scribed line runs true and ends up on the same line when a full revolution is made.
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Old 11-02-2009, 07:08 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I am in the process of rebuilding my knuckles, i see no signs of my axle being bent. my passenger side tire was wearing very fast on the outside, is this a problem that 4 new bearings is going to fix or are the off set bearings still going to be needed. I have thoroughly confused myself looking through posts on the subject.
You might have someone throw the truck on an alignment machine and check the camber and caster angles. Wearing on the outside of the tread, if due to camber angle, would mean the axle is bent downwards, which is not common. Could be due to improper toe in, too much will wear the outside of the tire.


Quote:
Also is there any special tricks on setting the knuckle bearing preload without the special toyota tool. is it just as simple as noting down what shims were where and putting back in the right order i have marlins rebuild kit with new shims.
See below:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri....shtml#Rebuild
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