Project oxy-moron

trbizwiz · 08-05-2008, 08:18 AM

HI guys nubee junior member here. I am sort of new to the toyota world. I had one in the 90's for a year then moved on to big chevy's. Well I have wanted a toy for a while now, and I came across a deal on a project truck over the weekend, and I picked it up yesterday.
I bought a '92 toy 4x4 with 3.0 vze. The truck runs good with 193xxx miles on it, but drives terrible.
I plan to repair the famous rusted frame, and various other chassis quirks to get her rolling right again. After that I want to do long past due PM on her. Timing kit, head gaskets, plugs, wires, and so on.
After I get these 2 steps done, I want to convert her over to propane. I want to run straight propane, so I plan to adjust the timing and etc to maximize the benefits of the higher octane, and hopefully reduce the downfall's of the lower BTU's. Based on my research I believe because a percentage of petrol goes unburned in the combustion cycle, a properly set up LPG powered truck should perform on par or slightly better than it's petrol brother. This experiment will let me find out for sure.
Another goal is to do everything as cost effectively as possible while getting oem or better results. I will use used parts when appropriate and available, and shop for bargains as well.
I started with the base truck, which needs a lot of work for $1000 dollars. I probably could have spent less, but I bought it from a guy who was selling his mom's spare truck to raise money for school, and I thought $1000 was fair enough, and he agreed.
I had to travel to KC Mo to get it and didn't quite make it home before I lost a Bering or something in the rear differential, so right now it's sitting north of Carthage on hwy 71. I'll pick it up tonight with the aide of a friend. (another friend was going to help me pick it up in KC last night but something came up, and I thought I would try to drive it home, bad Idea)
I'll try to post pic's tonight, but the frame is rusted in the normal spot, mostly on the passenger side. I will remove the bed and cut out all the soft areas in the frame and reinforce with plate steal inside, then patch back in the frame, and etch and seal the metal to prevent future rust. That will be stage one.
I am posting this for two reasons. I want to keep a record of my project, and I value input for others, be it helpful advice or just encouragement.
If anyone has any thoughts on the project so far, post up. If you have experience you want to share or if you know of vendors I should check with, or if you have recommendations of which mods and repairs I should do first and what are the best products to use for that.
a quick outline of my plans
bed removal frame rust repair replace leaf springs
check and repair front suspension
sand and rust proof and rust spots on the body to prevent future damage until I get to that part maybe years who knows
timing kit
top end gaskets
propane conversion
cold air induction
headers and free flowing exhaust ( I don't think I'll need a cat converter, because propane is so low in emissions
replace fenders and bed sides with fiberglass with flares, and hood with scoop
paint
tires
interior, lots of memory foam and custom upholstery (something stain and sweat resistant, but still nice to sit on and look at)
Stereo (something that gets great radio reception, I'm a talk radio junkie, and decent speakers, nothing fancy, no big amps or bass or anything)
then done maybe????
The reason I chose oxymoron for her title is, I want to build an all terrain truck that has a minimal environmental impact. It is a foreign made auto that will use fuel made 90% domestically, and I want to build it to be fuel efficient, but it is a utility vehicle. To me these goals seem to be an oxymoron, because of their contrast
Well thanks for reading post #1, the rest will be significantly shorter, but I thought if everyone knew where I was heading and from where I came I might get the most relevant advice.
I don't really have a budget in mind, but I want to find great deals on each facet of the project to keep the cost's as small as possible. Maybe this will encourage others to recycle lost trucks destined to salvage. I will probably cost too much, but it will satisfy my crave to try my hand at some of these things. My wife refers to me as the mad scientist.
I don't have much mechanical experience, but I learn fast, I research a lot, and I work hard. The rest ill leave to God.
I did just finish a wide wheel conversion on a Harley Davidson V-Rod. That took some fabricating, and ingenuity. I had a lot of help and encouragement from the guy's over at 1130cc.com
Thanks in advance for your help.
Tom H
Mount Vernon, MO

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Toyvana · 08-05-2008, 09:55 AM

Welcome Tom, at least it seems like you're an advanced beginner. A little big intro but hopefully you'll be a permanent guest member here!

trbizwiz · 08-05-2008, 01:51 PM

Thanks. I look forward to every one's advice.

One question right now. After the frame repair, I am contemplating going with a longer rear leaf spring, this moves the hangers forward,(away from the previously weakened frame, towards the cab). Has anyone done this? Is it worth while?
I really don't want to raise the truck, I am going for efficiency as well. These little trucks are very capable off road, and anyway, if I really want to go crazy 4 wheelin, Id probably use my Polaris RZR anyway.

pyro · 08-05-2008, 02:37 PM

welcome, looking foward to the pics.

zlathim · 08-05-2008, 03:12 PM

Welcome to YotaTech!

Awesome sounding project. I really like the propane conversion idea, buuuuuuut....

thook · 08-05-2008, 05:48 PM

Longer leafs in rear.....search chevy leaf swap. They're are longer (63"s I believe) and provide a lot of flex and smooth riding.

Can't say I really know anything about the propane conversion, but sounds interesting enough. I'm guessing propane is cheaper than gasoline?

trbizwiz · 08-06-2008, 08:09 AM

Sorry about the pictures. I still dont have the truck all the way home. As I said above the drive shaft gave out on the way home because of the axel being off square. They just slapped it in there when they attempted to repair the rust. Well I went to pick it up last night with a friends trailer, I could not get any help though, and appearantly it's not a one man job, even if you think you are very strong. I called a local towing co and they are going to pick it up for me right now, $150, wish I had done that in the first place, then last nights nightmare would not have ever happened. Any way I'll get picks tonight. I get the damage shots (not as bad as some ive seen, though the repair was the worst ive seen), body shots, and engine shots. I'll post e'em tomorrow, i promise (I hope).

I saw the Chevy swap FAQ thing, and that definately look's like the way to go with this truck. It's cheap, and it puts the load bearing points on virgin unrusted frame. that will allow the repaired section to do just one job and with alot less tension because of the leverage.

Side note, I thought I would be able to put the truck in 4 wheel drive (front wheel drive in this case) and drive it up on the trailer, but even though the 4x4 light is on and the front drive shaft turns it wont budge in 4 high or 4 low and first gear?? The drivers side wheel lock makes a click when I engage it, but the passy side doesnt, is this keeping the wheels from locking it? I thought with wheel locks if you locked them it was ready, I know on the puch button late models the wheel has to turn to lock in, but5 surely thats not the case here?? I'll lok into this after the frame repair and rear diff repair. Right now straight smoothe rolling chassis is top priority.

On my question above about the front shimmy, Ithink shocks and wheel berings, along with adjustments and alignment are what I'll try first, balance the tires as well. That pretty much covers that problem right??

Thanks again for your interest, and pictures tomorrow, I promise (I hope).

trbizwiz · 08-06-2008, 12:27 PM

Ok I promised some pictures. The toy finally made it home after being stuck on a highway overpass on 71 for 2 full days. I had to end up having it towed home.

I cant up load any pictures, it says they have to many mega bites. I only used a cell phone to take the pictures, so I dont know whats up.

trbizwiz · 08-07-2008, 01:26 PM

Ok guys, here is the first picture. I begged a co-worker to help me re size it. I have no idea how she did it, so I may keep her busy during this project. But anyway here is the first pic.

By the way, I haven't done much body work, well ever. But I have some cleaning wax, do you think it will turn that pink front into more of a red like the bed?

Tonight it gets a tire change, a thorough scrubbing with castrol super clean, and some PD blaster on those rusted bed bolts and nuts. I hope to get the bed off tomorrow and start removing the rust from the frame.

I have to quit about 645 tonight though, because the Chiefs are playing their first preseason game. (we got to have our priorities)

zlathim · 08-07-2008, 02:02 PM

A good buffing with some medium cut compound will take that oxidization off and make it look brand new, comparatively speaking.

trbizwiz · 08-07-2008, 02:04 PM

More pics.

The leaf hanger is appearantly home made repair job. I have only owned this since Monday, so I cant take credit for that. But i am planning on removing that mess, and sleaving the whole rusted section from cab mount to bed mount with 1/4 in plate steel on all 4 sides. After I remove all the rust. Then i think after I get the little rust spots repaired every where else, Ill coat the frame with por-15 or something like that. I would like to find something a little less costly, but I dont want the problem to return either.

trbizwiz · 08-07-2008, 08:59 PM

Well I got the flat changed, the engine degreesed, and the bed bolts sprayed with PB Blaster. Nothing too exciting, but all had to be done. Hopefully the bed will come off smoothly tomorrow. If not I'm sure it's nothing 950 lbs of air ratchet wont fix. Guess I'll be looking for replacement bolts next. Well these are pretty rusty, I'll replace 'em anyway.

fuel additive/fuel system cleaner.....................................$8.99
time tonight.......................1730 to 1900= 1.5 hrs
cost Castrol Super kleen............................................. ...$4.99...32 oz, I'll probably get the big bottle next but I wanted the sprayer
tow bill yesterday morning..........................................$ 178.00
time attempting to tow trailer tuesday........6 hrs
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
total so far............................................7.5 hrs.......$1191.98

trbizwiz · 08-11-2008, 08:34 AM

Update. I took the bed off, removed the wheels, axel's, and the third. Then I power washed alot of the rust off the frame, and all the greese and gunk. The third is shreaded on the inside, the diff and axels look good. the axel berings seem fine too. I'll post up pic's a little later, I have to have the pixels reduced.

trbizwiz · 08-12-2008, 08:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trbizwiz

Well I got the flat changed, the engine degreesed, and the bed bolts sprayed with PB Blaster. Nothing too exciting, but all had to be done. Hopefully the bed will come off smoothly tomorrow. If not I'm sure it's nothing 950 lbs of air ratchet wont fix. Guess I'll be looking for replacement bolts next. Well these are pretty rusty, I'll replace 'em anyway.

fuel additive/fuel system cleaner.....................................$8.99
time tonight.......................1730 to 1900= 1.5 hrs
cost Castrol Super kleen............................................. ...$4.99...32 oz, I'll probably get the big bottle next but I wanted the sprayer
tow bill yesterday morning..........................................$ 178.00
time attempting to tow trailer tuesday........6 hrs
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
total so far............................................7.5 hrs.......$1191.98

8/8 attempted to remove bolts from bed.....2 hrs
purchased a bi metal sawsall blade...................................$1.99
8/9 used grinder to remove last bolt, and disconnected wiring from chassis........................................... ......2 hrs
4 inch air grinder .................................................. .......$10.99
2 grinder blades............................................ .................$0.99
8/10 removed bed, & axels, third member, and power washed rust, and greese off of everything in the back...........2.5hrs
8/11 used buffer and rmoved 90% of oxidation, painted oem steel wheels denim black with high gloss clear coat........1.5hrs
used third member from T.A.P. with 6 month.................... $389.00
new warn premium locking hubs......................................$160.00
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Total as of 8/12/08__________________15.5hrs_______$1754.95

trbizwiz · 08-13-2008, 07:58 AM

OK I got the pics of the bed off and third member, and axles all re-sized. so here they are.

trbizwiz · 08-13-2008, 08:05 AM

not sure why the others didn't go on??

zlathim · 08-13-2008, 08:17 AM

I think you need to use .jpeg files instaed of the .bmp

I can't see the pics.

trbizwiz · 08-13-2008, 08:32 AM

testing jpeg. i'm new to this sorry

zlathim · 08-13-2008, 08:39 AM

Great progress dude! It looks like you have your hands full. Keep up the good work.

trbizwiz · 08-15-2008, 10:01 AM

Here are a couple of more pics". Hopefully tonight I can get the new warn lockers on, and get the leaf spring hangers cut out. Tomorrow I'm going to the Chiefs game so maybe Sunday I can do a little welding.

zlathim · 08-19-2008, 07:54 AM

Good progress! Your little mechanic's apprentice looks like he knows his way around the shop too! It's cool that you are getting him started young. By the time he is 5 he will be overhauling engines! The other little guy doesn't look very happy. I'm guessing he liked it better with the bed on!

trbizwiz · 08-19-2008, 12:31 PM

Here are a couple of pics of the new warn locking hubs, adn black painted stock steel wheels. It's comming together pretty nice so far I think. I am a little nervous about using my buddies miller 210 mig for the frame and hanger welds. I have used my little chinese flux core welder alot, but this thing has alot of options and settings, gass, 2 guns, wow talk about overwhelming. I'll practice a little on scrap first, DUH.

trbizwiz · 08-22-2008, 11:49 AM

The steel came in finally. I made cardboard cutouts of the shape of the frame, adn had a fabricator cut 1/4 inch thick steel bar to match the cutouts. I also got so 3.5x3.5x5/16 steel square stock for thw spring hangers for my chevy spring swap. My air compressor crapped out on me so I am picking up a new one tonight at Home depot. Then tomorrow I'll weld remove the gas tank, and weld up the spring hangers, and mount the springs. then i' will install the new 4.30 ratio third to replace the shreaded one. Then i'll put every thing but the bed back together and take her for a test run. I have new shocks comming in Monday. They are the procomp 9000's . After they go on, I'll give it a DIY alignment, and if the ride and drive checks out, I can start on rust removal and frame repair.

Procomp 9000 shocks x4................................$152.00
shifter seat and bushing from Marlin...................$22.00
new studs for third member with nuts.................$21.00
should have done the 3/8's inch stud mod from the priate 4x4 FAQ oh well live and learn at least I shared
__________________________________________________ ______________
.................................................. ..............$1949.95

oh yea:
steel tubing 3.5x3.5x1/4 x2feet.........................$20.00
1/4 steel plate cut to sleeve frame....................$49.00
2 chevy leaf springs.......................................$105 .00
__________________________________________________ _______________
.................................................. ..............$2123.95

trbizwiz · 08-25-2008, 07:40 AM

HI folks, I have a boring post weekend report. I spend 3 hours Saturday, and 3 on Sunday trying like heck to remove the stock rear leaf springs. Those rusty bolts going through the rubber bushings in the eye of the leaf springs are tough to get out. I did finally get everything removed, and most every thing stripped off the new Chevy leaves. Now I just need to mock up the new leaves to the frame tonight (not that I don't trust the FAQ section of the swap, but they offer too many variables for me to just blindly weld up my brackets 9 inches in front of the stock brackets). I am planning on jacking the spring up to the spot I think it should go, then check the center or the springs with the mark I made on the frame indicating the center of the stock springs. I think if I get the springs centered on that mark, the drive shaft should line up with third.
I have the third, and the new studs and nuts to attach it, and the new shocks should be in today. So if the mocking and welding goes well tonight, the rear should get reassembled tomorrow, and I might be able to test drive in a day or so.
Side note, I put the shifter seat and end cap bushings in, and just as promised by everyone, this thing shifts smooth as butter. This is awesome, because it was a bear to shift before, and not just into third like many mentioned. When I pulled the stock bushing out it looked like an o ring, but it didn't appear damaged. I was afraid my new bushings wouldn't make a difference when I saw this, but I installed anyway, and YEA they worked great. for $22 anyone who isn't thrilled with the way their yota shifts, you have to do this, it takes maybe an hour tops, and that's if you don't know what you are doing to start with. I'll give a brief description of my install.
Shifter seat install:
pull carpet out from around the shifter boots
use an electric screw gun with a Phillips bit to remove the 4 screws holding the plate that holds the boots and rubber seals to the chassis
twist off the shifter knobs
lube the shifter sticks (I used fogging oil, but my truck is a mess anyway, and the carpet will get replaced anyway. but veg oil on your hands will probably be a little less messy, just grease up the shifters both 5 speed and 4x4)
slide the mounting plate, boots and rubber gaskets off the shifter s
now with one hand press down on the round washer looking thing that surrounds the 5 speed shifter, and with the other hand use a flat screw driver or chisel and placing it on the flat area on the washer turn it counter clockwise
the washer should pop up a little after its released
when you pull it out it will look like a socket with 2 grooves cut into it
these grooves slide down over the 2 pins inside the transmission neck for the shifter, and the washer/socket twists clock wise to the pins
anyway with the washer/socket out, you should be able to see the remains of the OEM shifter seat, it may appear to look like an o ring (mine was all in one piece and didn't appear damaged)
take the bushing/o ring out
now with the new bushing from marlin crawler inverted lay the 2 grooves in the bushing on the 2 pins in the transmission neck, and rotate the bushing top to bottom in either direction. It will meet a little resistance, but with a small amount of force it will pop right into place
next I removed my stock end cap (which also didn't appear damaged, and It may not have been but I had the new one so i put it in anyway)
I had to use pliers to pull the OEM end cap off, it was on there real well
the new end cap popped right on with a little force
now just put it all back together in the reverse order of removal, and be amazed oat the smoothness of your trucks new stability
This is an awesome mod, and well worth it if you have complaints about your shifter

total time this weekend on prep work and shifter seat repair:
.................................................. ....................6 hrs
__________________________________________________ _______________
.................................................. ................21.5 hrs $2123.95

I'll take some pictures of the frame prep tonight before I weld up the new leaf spring brackets and then some after shots with the leaves installed if I get that far.
Thanks for following along
Quick question, does anyone have any suggestions for removal of the bolts that hold the leaf springs on. I've tried PB blaster and a 3 pound sledge, and I've tried heat too. I have not researched any tips yet and I'll do that now, but I thought I would post up the question anyway. Thanks in advance.

trbizwiz · 08-27-2008, 08:30 AM

Wow, I would never have guessed this would be such slow going. It sucks to find out you have to chase down parts and tools you weren't expecting. and way, Ive got some pictures of the driver side 63 inch leaf spring hangers welded to the truck. I got some drill bits last night so hopefully I can mount the driver side spring and remove the gas tank tonight, and if I'm lucky mount the other spring and bolt up the Axel too. Well I'm getting a little ahead of myself now.
here are the pictures. The close up is the rear hanger, not bad welding for a non welder person. Thanks to Gary for use of the Miller 210 (the most awesome welder I have ever seen), I may have to keep this one, sorry Gary.

08-05-2008, 02:37 PM	#4 (permalink)
pyro Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: macon,ga Posts: 115	welcome, looking foward to the pics. __________________ Just dropped in to see what condition my condition was in.

08-05-2008, 03:12 PM	#5 (permalink)
zlathim Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 1,185	Welcome to YotaTech! Awesome sounding project. I really like the propane conversion idea, buuuuuuut.... __________________ Do you think Einstein walked around thinking everyone was a bunch of dipsticks? Idiocracy (edited for family friendly viewing)

08-06-2008, 12:27 PM	#8 (permalink)
trbizwiz Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 351	Ok I promised some pictures. The toy finally made it home after being stuck on a highway overpass on 71 for 2 full days. I had to end up having it towed home. I cant up load any pictures, it says they have to many mega bites. I only used a cell phone to take the pictures, so I dont know whats up. __________________ [b]Tom H Mt Vernon, MO 1992 Toyota DLX 4x4 reg cab 3.slow 5 speed MODS: chevy 63 swap, frame rust repair, SDORI BJ spacers, OME shocks up front doestch tech shocks rear, Downey headers, energy suspension bushings http://www.yotatech.com/f151/project-oxy-moron-151018/

08-07-2008, 01:26 PM	#9 (permalink)
trbizwiz Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 351	Ok guys, here is the first picture. I begged a co-worker to help me re size it. I have no idea how she did it, so I may keep her busy during this project. But anyway here is the first pic. By the way, I haven't done much body work, well ever. But I have some cleaning wax, do you think it will turn that pink front into more of a red like the bed? Tonight it gets a tire change, a thorough scrubbing with castrol super clean, and some PD blaster on those rusted bed bolts and nuts. I hope to get the bed off tomorrow and start removing the rust from the frame. I have to quit about 645 tonight though, because the Chiefs are playing their first preseason game. (we got to have our priorities) Attached Thumbnails __________________ [b]Tom H Mt Vernon, MO 1992 Toyota DLX 4x4 reg cab 3.slow 5 speed MODS: chevy 63 swap, frame rust repair, SDORI BJ spacers, OME shocks up front doestch tech shocks rear, Downey headers, energy suspension bushings http://www.yotatech.com/f151/project-oxy-moron-151018/ Last edited by trbizwiz; 08-07-2008 at 01:38 PM.

08-07-2008, 02:02 PM	#10 (permalink)
zlathim Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 1,185	A good buffing with some medium cut compound will take that oxidization off and make it look brand new, comparatively speaking. __________________ Do you think Einstein walked around thinking everyone was a bunch of dipsticks? Idiocracy (edited for family friendly viewing)

08-05-2008, 09:55 AM	#2 (permalink)
Toyvana Registered User Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Godfrey, Illinois Posts: 928	Welcome Tom, at least it seems like you're an advanced beginner. A little big intro but hopefully you'll be a permanent guest member here!

08-05-2008, 01:51 PM	#3 (permalink)
trbizwiz Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 351	Thanks. I look forward to every one's advice. One question right now. After the frame repair, I am contemplating going with a longer rear leaf spring, this moves the hangers forward,(away from the previously weakened frame, towards the cab). Has anyone done this? Is it worth while? I really don't want to raise the truck, I am going for efficiency as well. These little trucks are very capable off road, and anyway, if I really want to go crazy 4 wheelin, Id probably use my Polaris RZR anyway.

08-06-2008, 08:09 AM	#7 (permalink)
trbizwiz Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 351	Sorry about the pictures. I still dont have the truck all the way home. As I said above the drive shaft gave out on the way home because of the axel being off square. They just slapped it in there when they attempted to repair the rust. Well I went to pick it up last night with a friends trailer, I could not get any help though, and appearantly it's not a one man job, even if you think you are very strong. I called a local towing co and they are going to pick it up for me right now, $150, wish I had done that in the first place, then last nights nightmare would not have ever happened. Any way I'll get picks tonight. I get the damage shots (not as bad as some ive seen, though the repair was the worst ive seen), body shots, and engine shots. I'll post e'em tomorrow, i promise (I hope). I saw the Chevy swap FAQ thing, and that definately look's like the way to go with this truck. It's cheap, and it puts the load bearing points on virgin unrusted frame. that will allow the repaired section to do just one job and with alot less tension because of the leverage. Side note, I thought I would be able to put the truck in 4 wheel drive (front wheel drive in this case) and drive it up on the trailer, but even though the 4x4 light is on and the front drive shaft turns it wont budge in 4 high or 4 low and first gear?? The drivers side wheel lock makes a click when I engage it, but the passy side doesnt, is this keeping the wheels from locking it? I thought with wheel locks if you locked them it was ready, I know on the puch button late models the wheel has to turn to lock in, but5 surely thats not the case here?? I'll lok into this after the frame repair and rear diff repair. Right now straight smoothe rolling chassis is top priority. On my question above about the front shimmy, Ithink shocks and wheel berings, along with adjustments and alignment are what I'll try first, balance the tires as well. That pretty much covers that problem right?? Thanks again for your interest, and pictures tomorrow, I promise (I hope).

08-07-2008, 02:04 PM	#11 (permalink)
trbizwiz Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 351	More pics. The leaf hanger is appearantly home made repair job. I have only owned this since Monday, so I cant take credit for that. But i am planning on removing that mess, and sleaving the whole rusted section from cab mount to bed mount with 1/4 in plate steel on all 4 sides. After I remove all the rust. Then i think after I get the little rust spots repaired every where else, Ill coat the frame with por-15 or something like that. I would like to find something a little less costly, but I dont want the problem to return either. Attached Thumbnails __________________ [b]Tom H Mt Vernon, MO 1992 Toyota DLX 4x4 reg cab 3.slow 5 speed MODS: chevy 63 swap, frame rust repair, SDORI BJ spacers, OME shocks up front doestch tech shocks rear, Downey headers, energy suspension bushings http://www.yotatech.com/f151/project-oxy-moron-151018/ Last edited by trbizwiz; 08-07-2008 at 02:09 PM.

08-07-2008, 08:59 PM	#12 (permalink)
trbizwiz Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 351	Well I got the flat changed, the engine degreesed, and the bed bolts sprayed with PB Blaster. Nothing too exciting, but all had to be done. Hopefully the bed will come off smoothly tomorrow. If not I'm sure it's nothing 950 lbs of air ratchet wont fix. Guess I'll be looking for replacement bolts next. Well these are pretty rusty, I'll replace 'em anyway. fuel additive/fuel system cleaner.....................................$8.99 time tonight.......................1730 to 1900= 1.5 hrs cost Castrol Super kleen............................................. ...$4.99...32 oz, I'll probably get the big bottle next but I wanted the sprayer tow bill yesterday morning..........................................$ 178.00 time attempting to tow trailer tuesday........6 hrs -------------------------------------------------------------------------- total so far............................................7.5 hrs.......$1191.98 __________________ [b]Tom H Mt Vernon, MO 1992 Toyota DLX 4x4 reg cab 3.slow 5 speed MODS: chevy 63 swap, frame rust repair, SDORI BJ spacers, OME shocks up front doestch tech shocks rear, Downey headers, energy suspension bushings http://www.yotatech.com/f151/project-oxy-moron-151018/

08-11-2008, 08:34 AM	#13 (permalink)
trbizwiz Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 351	Update. I took the bed off, removed the wheels, axel's, and the third. Then I power washed alot of the rust off the frame, and all the greese and gunk. The third is shreaded on the inside, the diff and axels look good. the axel berings seem fine too. I'll post up pic's a little later, I have to have the pixels reduced. __________________ [b]Tom H Mt Vernon, MO 1992 Toyota DLX 4x4 reg cab 3.slow 5 speed MODS: chevy 63 swap, frame rust repair, SDORI BJ spacers, OME shocks up front doestch tech shocks rear, Downey headers, energy suspension bushings http://www.yotatech.com/f151/project-oxy-moron-151018/

08-13-2008, 08:17 AM	#17 (permalink)
zlathim Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 1,185	I think you need to use .jpeg files instaed of the .bmp I can't see the pics. __________________ Do you think Einstein walked around thinking everyone was a bunch of dipsticks? Idiocracy (edited for family friendly viewing)

08-13-2008, 08:32 AM	#18 (permalink)
trbizwiz Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 351	testing jpeg. i'm new to this sorry Attached Thumbnails __________________ [b]Tom H Mt Vernon, MO 1992 Toyota DLX 4x4 reg cab 3.slow 5 speed MODS: chevy 63 swap, frame rust repair, SDORI BJ spacers, OME shocks up front doestch tech shocks rear, Downey headers, energy suspension bushings http://www.yotatech.com/f151/project-oxy-moron-151018/

08-13-2008, 08:39 AM	#19 (permalink)
zlathim Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 1,185	Great progress dude! It looks like you have your hands full. Keep up the good work. __________________ Do you think Einstein walked around thinking everyone was a bunch of dipsticks? Idiocracy (edited for family friendly viewing)

08-15-2008, 10:01 AM	#20 (permalink)
trbizwiz Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 351	Here are a couple of more pics". Hopefully tonight I can get the new warn lockers on, and get the leaf spring hangers cut out. Tomorrow I'm going to the Chiefs game so maybe Sunday I can do a little welding. Attached Thumbnails __________________ [b]Tom H Mt Vernon, MO 1992 Toyota DLX 4x4 reg cab 3.slow 5 speed MODS: chevy 63 swap, frame rust repair, SDORI BJ spacers, OME shocks up front doestch tech shocks rear, Downey headers, energy suspension bushings http://www.yotatech.com/f151/project-oxy-moron-151018/

08-19-2008, 07:54 AM	#21 (permalink)
zlathim Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 1,185	Good progress! Your little mechanic's apprentice looks like he knows his way around the shop too! It's cool that you are getting him started young. By the time he is 5 he will be overhauling engines! The other little guy doesn't look very happy. I'm guessing he liked it better with the bed on! __________________ Do you think Einstein walked around thinking everyone was a bunch of dipsticks? Idiocracy (edited for family friendly viewing) Last edited by zlathim; 08-19-2008 at 07:55 AM.

08-19-2008, 12:31 PM	#22 (permalink)
trbizwiz Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 351	Here are a couple of pics of the new warn locking hubs, adn black painted stock steel wheels. It's comming together pretty nice so far I think. I am a little nervous about using my buddies miller 210 mig for the frame and hanger welds. I have used my little chinese flux core welder alot, but this thing has alot of options and settings, gass, 2 guns, wow talk about overwhelming. I'll practice a little on scrap first, DUH. Attached Thumbnails __________________ [b]Tom H Mt Vernon, MO 1992 Toyota DLX 4x4 reg cab 3.slow 5 speed MODS: chevy 63 swap, frame rust repair, SDORI BJ spacers, OME shocks up front doestch tech shocks rear, Downey headers, energy suspension bushings http://www.yotatech.com/f151/project-oxy-moron-151018/

08-22-2008, 11:49 AM	#23 (permalink)
trbizwiz Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 351	The steel came in finally. I made cardboard cutouts of the shape of the frame, adn had a fabricator cut 1/4 inch thick steel bar to match the cutouts. I also got so 3.5x3.5x5/16 steel square stock for thw spring hangers for my chevy spring swap. My air compressor crapped out on me so I am picking up a new one tonight at Home depot. Then tomorrow I'll weld remove the gas tank, and weld up the spring hangers, and mount the springs. then i' will install the new 4.30 ratio third to replace the shreaded one. Then i'll put every thing but the bed back together and take her for a test run. I have new shocks comming in Monday. They are the procomp 9000's . After they go on, I'll give it a DIY alignment, and if the ride and drive checks out, I can start on rust removal and frame repair. Procomp 9000 shocks x4................................$152.00 shifter seat and bushing from Marlin...................$22.00 new studs for third member with nuts.................$21.00 should have done the 3/8's inch stud mod from the priate 4x4 FAQ oh well live and learn at least I shared __________________________________________________ ______________ .................................................. ..............$1949.95 oh yea: steel tubing 3.5x3.5x1/4 x2feet.........................$20.00 1/4 steel plate cut to sleeve frame....................$49.00 2 chevy leaf springs.......................................$105 .00 __________________________________________________ _______________ .................................................. ..............$2123.95 __________________ [b]Tom H Mt Vernon, MO 1992 Toyota DLX 4x4 reg cab 3.slow 5 speed MODS: chevy 63 swap, frame rust repair, SDORI BJ spacers, OME shocks up front doestch tech shocks rear, Downey headers, energy suspension bushings http://www.yotatech.com/f151/project-oxy-moron-151018/ Last edited by trbizwiz; 10-09-2008 at 08:28 AM.

08-25-2008, 07:40 AM	#24 (permalink)
trbizwiz Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 351	HI folks, I have a boring post weekend report. I spend 3 hours Saturday, and 3 on Sunday trying like heck to remove the stock rear leaf springs. Those rusty bolts going through the rubber bushings in the eye of the leaf springs are tough to get out. I did finally get everything removed, and most every thing stripped off the new Chevy leaves. Now I just need to mock up the new leaves to the frame tonight (not that I don't trust the FAQ section of the swap, but they offer too many variables for me to just blindly weld up my brackets 9 inches in front of the stock brackets). I am planning on jacking the spring up to the spot I think it should go, then check the center or the springs with the mark I made on the frame indicating the center of the stock springs. I think if I get the springs centered on that mark, the drive shaft should line up with third. I have the third, and the new studs and nuts to attach it, and the new shocks should be in today. So if the mocking and welding goes well tonight, the rear should get reassembled tomorrow, and I might be able to test drive in a day or so. Side note, I put the shifter seat and end cap bushings in, and just as promised by everyone, this thing shifts smooth as butter. This is awesome, because it was a bear to shift before, and not just into third like many mentioned. When I pulled the stock bushing out it looked like an o ring, but it didn't appear damaged. I was afraid my new bushings wouldn't make a difference when I saw this, but I installed anyway, and YEA they worked great. for $22 anyone who isn't thrilled with the way their yota shifts, you have to do this, it takes maybe an hour tops, and that's if you don't know what you are doing to start with. I'll give a brief description of my install. Shifter seat install: pull carpet out from around the shifter boots use an electric screw gun with a Phillips bit to remove the 4 screws holding the plate that holds the boots and rubber seals to the chassis twist off the shifter knobs lube the shifter sticks (I used fogging oil, but my truck is a mess anyway, and the carpet will get replaced anyway. but veg oil on your hands will probably be a little less messy, just grease up the shifters both 5 speed and 4x4) slide the mounting plate, boots and rubber gaskets off the shifter s now with one hand press down on the round washer looking thing that surrounds the 5 speed shifter, and with the other hand use a flat screw driver or chisel and placing it on the flat area on the washer turn it counter clockwise the washer should pop up a little after its released when you pull it out it will look like a socket with 2 grooves cut into it these grooves slide down over the 2 pins inside the transmission neck for the shifter, and the washer/socket twists clock wise to the pins anyway with the washer/socket out, you should be able to see the remains of the OEM shifter seat, it may appear to look like an o ring (mine was all in one piece and didn't appear damaged) take the bushing/o ring out now with the new bushing from marlin crawler inverted lay the 2 grooves in the bushing on the 2 pins in the transmission neck, and rotate the bushing top to bottom in either direction. It will meet a little resistance, but with a small amount of force it will pop right into place next I removed my stock end cap (which also didn't appear damaged, and It may not have been but I had the new one so i put it in anyway) I had to use pliers to pull the OEM end cap off, it was on there real well the new end cap popped right on with a little force now just put it all back together in the reverse order of removal, and be amazed oat the smoothness of your trucks new stability This is an awesome mod, and well worth it if you have complaints about your shifter total time this weekend on prep work and shifter seat repair: .................................................. ....................6 hrs __________________________________________________ _______________ .................................................. ................21.5 hrs $2123.95 I'll take some pictures of the frame prep tonight before I weld up the new leaf spring brackets and then some after shots with the leaves installed if I get that far. Thanks for following along Quick question, does anyone have any suggestions for removal of the bolts that hold the leaf springs on. I've tried PB blaster and a 3 pound sledge, and I've tried heat too. I have not researched any tips yet and I'll do that now, but I thought I would post up the question anyway. Thanks in advance. __________________ [b]Tom H Mt Vernon, MO 1992 Toyota DLX 4x4 reg cab 3.slow 5 speed MODS: chevy 63 swap, frame rust repair, SDORI BJ spacers, OME shocks up front doestch tech shocks rear, Downey headers, energy suspension bushings http://www.yotatech.com/f151/project-oxy-moron-151018/ Last edited by trbizwiz; 08-25-2008 at 07:44 AM.

08-27-2008, 08:30 AM	#25 (permalink)
trbizwiz Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 351	Wow, I would never have guessed this would be such slow going. It sucks to find out you have to chase down parts and tools you weren't expecting. and way, Ive got some pictures of the driver side 63 inch leaf spring hangers welded to the truck. I got some drill bits last night so hopefully I can mount the driver side spring and remove the gas tank tonight, and if I'm lucky mount the other spring and bolt up the Axel too. Well I'm getting a little ahead of myself now. here are the pictures. The close up is the rear hanger, not bad welding for a non welder person. Thanks to Gary for use of the Miller 210 (the most awesome welder I have ever seen), I may have to keep this one, sorry Gary. Attached Thumbnails __________________ [b]Tom H Mt Vernon, MO 1992 Toyota DLX 4x4 reg cab 3.slow 5 speed MODS: chevy 63 swap, frame rust repair, SDORI BJ spacers, OME shocks up front doestch tech shocks rear, Downey headers, energy suspension bushings http://www.yotatech.com/f151/project-oxy-moron-151018/

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