Tim's Roof Light Wiring Solution

BOSTON4RUNNER · 09-22-2009, 07:29 AM

I didnt want to drill holes in the roof.

Say what you will, but I think this works well.

5/8 heated and bent to follow contours of roof and windshield. Angle iron pedestal spaced with stainless spacers/washers to ensure it sits and bolts down correctly i.e. factory rubber seal washers in place on roof rack foot.

Ran all wires down and sneaked into the space in the cowl panel, away from the hinge.

Does not make ANY wind noise at all and does not move/shake etc.

Eventually truck will have snorkel etc, so this light wire bar simply makes it look more rigged out.

Also allows an easy swap back to stock.

Please feel free to post this pics. Here is the link to facebook.

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...9&l=00ffce7e6f

Regards, Tim

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**aviator** · 09-22-2009, 05:15 PM

Interesting idea Tim... you might find that down pipe bounces around on the highway in the wind... you might consider adding a pad/bracket to the back of it and attaching it to the windshield with some 2sided tape stuff like they use to "permanently" attach towel racks to tile and so on... you can get them from HD/Loews for next to nothing.

lgrt · 09-22-2009, 08:15 PM

I like the approach... let us know how it is working after you've had a chance to put some miles on it.

JeEVeS · 09-22-2009, 08:56 PM

nice setup. i did mine a bit different by running a pos up my pass b pillar and neg down my driver side. these seank into the hood and are hiden between some paneling by the windshield. a little less protected than yours but a little more hiden. i really like the idea though. and a snorks will hide it well. what gauge wire did your run?

BOSTON4RUNNER · 09-23-2009, 06:28 AM

Even at 100 miles per hour there is no bounce, it is very stable. It pretty much does not move at all.

The rod is 5/8 and the angle iron is close to 1/4 inch, it is very stout. It is not pipe, but rather solid mild steel rod, that way no channel, open center where air can travel and cause lift and bounce.

I really prefer this type of approach over drilling a hole in the roof.

Be interested to see pics of similar set ups.

BOSTON4RUNNER · 09-23-2009, 06:29 AM

I forget what gauge, also pretty stout....standard fog light type wire, what is that usually 12 or 14?

JeEVeS · 09-23-2009, 08:31 PM

I ran 12 gauge and it powers 4 (soon 5) cheap 100,000 lumen (?) lights. does well and i pulled 14 volts from one of the wires when i was hooking it up so not to much loss. ill take some pics in the morning. im kinda leaning towards setting them up more like yours though. mikey likey.

treknwil · 09-24-2009, 09:05 AM

I also didn't want to put holes in my roof. So I came up with this as a way to wire the lights. I used a 4 pin trailer plug. The female ends at the lights and under the dash, and the male ends on a patch cable of sorts. I have 2 switches on the dash to turn the lights on and off.( 2 lts per switch). So when I want to use the lights I just plug them in, and when not in use I store the cable.

BOSTON4RUNNER · 09-24-2009, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeEVeS

I ran 12 gauge and it powers 4 (soon 5) cheap 100,000 lumen (?) lights. does well and i pulled 14 volts from one of the wires when i was hooking it up so not to much loss. ill take some pics in the morning. im kinda leaning towards setting them up more like yours though. mikey likey.

Thanks for the compliment.

I think it is a clean set up and great alternative to the Gobi mod, adds a little rigged out look as well. Best of all remove no problem and go back to stock if I wanted, no holes drilled in roof.

BOSTON4RUNNER · 09-24-2009, 12:41 PM

hey treknwil, what type of safari rack/basket is that? simply bolts on the factory rack? what did it cost you, where you get it?

thanks!

gabe74gt · 10-23-2009, 10:48 AM

hey treknwil, loved you machine man! and better is to suggest the same idea. no need to drill holes, you can find out alternatives like that

ESQ · 10-23-2009, 11:39 AM

FYI, open circuit voltage doesn't tell you anything about resistance in the circuit

JeEVeS · 10-23-2009, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ESQ

FYI, open circuit voltage doesn't tell you anything about resistance in the circuit

I think as soon as i typed that i thought about it and realized my bad. How ever my brain starts to hurt when i think about electrical to much. How would i properly tell if my wire was to small?

ESQ · 10-23-2009, 02:19 PM

Measure the voltage drop under a known load (similar to your application load). Put an ammeter in series and use a voltmeter in parallel to measure the drop across your known resistance.

Now you know the voltage drop across your load at a certain current.

Then you take the difference between your open circuit voltage and and the measure load v-drop and, using the known current with the voltage difference, can easily calculate with Ohm's law the 'other' resistance (i.e. the resistance in the wires/connections etc).

Hope that helps!

BOSTON4RUNNER · 11-02-2009, 11:14 AM

this is still holding up well....hopefully it has been helpful for others in determining how to run their wires

09-22-2009, 05:15 PM	#2 (permalink)
aviator Super Moderator Staff Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: COTKU,Ontario,Canada Posts: 7,467	Interesting idea Tim... you might find that down pipe bounces around on the highway in the wind... you might consider adding a pad/bracket to the back of it and attaching it to the windshield with some 2sided tape stuff like they use to "permanently" attach towel racks to tile and so on... you can get them from HD/Loews for next to nothing. __________________ Silver 1994 Hilux Xtra cab 4x4 3.0 K&N cone filter, ported MAF, advanced timing, oversize exhaust, free flow cat, "rumble" muffler custom covered SR5 seats, map lights, factory AC tv4184 style black interior conversion started mods to come... header, custom centre console, stereo upgrade tinted windows Founding member 1972TLC fan club - Get well soon Mary Toyota Hilux... Get in or Get out of the way.

09-22-2009, 08:15 PM	#3 (permalink)
lgrt Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 89	I like the approach... let us know how it is working after you've had a chance to put some miles on it. __________________ lgrt Mods: a change in attitude, Baja Design Lights, lots of Metal Tech stuff along with bits and peices 4x4 Adventure Blog: Stories, pictures and videos of my rig along with the odd rant and rave

09-22-2009, 08:56 PM	#4 (permalink)
JeEVeS Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Orygun Posts: 197	nice setup. i did mine a bit different by running a pos up my pass b pillar and neg down my driver side. these seank into the hood and are hiden between some paneling by the windshield. a little less protected than yours but a little more hiden. i really like the idea though. and a snorks will hide it well. what gauge wire did your run? __________________ scheme'n 1994 4Runner SR5 22RE R151f hand built on the street. Now cruising at .4mph Member since 08 but it took me 3 years to come up with an unasked question Jeni

09-23-2009, 06:28 AM	#5 (permalink)
BOSTON4RUNNER Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Posts: 789	Even at 100 miles per hour there is no bounce, it is very stable. It pretty much does not move at all. The rod is 5/8 and the angle iron is close to 1/4 inch, it is very stout. It is not pipe, but rather solid mild steel rod, that way no channel, open center where air can travel and cause lift and bounce. I really prefer this type of approach over drilling a hole in the roof. Be interested to see pics of similar set ups. __________________ 305k MILES! 97 4Runner Khumo Road Venture MT's 285 75 16's LC wheels,Desert Dune,moonroof,safari rack,kc daylighters,3.4 Ltr. 5 spd,410s detroit ez locker, OME 891's, KYB shocks3 - 3.25 lift, Tokico,Taco springs,3 in lift in front Rev Tek spacers/top out 4Crawler diff drop, 1 in BL, 4 Runner altimeter, 2.5 in Flowmaster,high flow cat, mandrel steel air intake conical K & N. MSD DIS4,CB with 7 channel wave/weather report,4 foot firestick,Pioneer CD,30 gig IPOD. www.sfaboston.com Last edited by BOSTON4RUNNER; 09-23-2009 at 06:30 AM.

09-23-2009, 06:29 AM	#6 (permalink)
BOSTON4RUNNER Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Posts: 789	I forget what gauge, also pretty stout....standard fog light type wire, what is that usually 12 or 14? __________________ 305k MILES! 97 4Runner Khumo Road Venture MT's 285 75 16's LC wheels,Desert Dune,moonroof,safari rack,kc daylighters,3.4 Ltr. 5 spd,410s detroit ez locker, OME 891's, KYB shocks3 - 3.25 lift, Tokico,Taco springs,3 in lift in front Rev Tek spacers/top out 4Crawler diff drop, 1 in BL, 4 Runner altimeter, 2.5 in Flowmaster,high flow cat, mandrel steel air intake conical K & N. MSD DIS4,CB with 7 channel wave/weather report,4 foot firestick,Pioneer CD,30 gig IPOD. www.sfaboston.com

09-23-2009, 08:31 PM	#7 (permalink)
JeEVeS Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Orygun Posts: 197	I ran 12 gauge and it powers 4 (soon 5) cheap 100,000 lumen (?) lights. does well and i pulled 14 volts from one of the wires when i was hooking it up so not to much loss. ill take some pics in the morning. im kinda leaning towards setting them up more like yours though. mikey likey. __________________ scheme'n 1994 4Runner SR5 22RE R151f hand built on the street. Now cruising at .4mph Member since 08 but it took me 3 years to come up with an unasked question Jeni

09-24-2009, 09:05 AM	#8 (permalink)
treknwil Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Vacaville Posts: 259	I also didn't want to put holes in my roof. So I came up with this as a way to wire the lights. I used a 4 pin trailer plug. The female ends at the lights and under the dash, and the male ends on a patch cable of sorts. I have 2 switches on the dash to turn the lights on and off.( 2 lts per switch). So when I want to use the lights I just plug them in, and when not in use I store the cable. __________________ 2007 FJ Cruiser 4x4 285/70-17 MTR's, Home made level lift, Home made Rock sliders, home made lower control arm skides, Home made Highlift jack clamps, AP LCA's, 4 KC's on roof rack, 1987 4runner SR5 22RE 5spd. Budbuilt skids and transf. case cross member, Flowmaster, 32x11.50/15's BFG MT's, Amer. racing rims, home made 1" body lift, winch & brush Guard, Downey truss, 26mm t-bars, home made 1" BJ spacers, Home Rocksliders, home rear quater sliders, Aussie locker in rear 4.30 gears

09-24-2009, 12:41 PM	#10 (permalink)
BOSTON4RUNNER Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Posts: 789	hey treknwil, what type of safari rack/basket is that? simply bolts on the factory rack? what did it cost you, where you get it? thanks! __________________ 305k MILES! 97 4Runner Khumo Road Venture MT's 285 75 16's LC wheels,Desert Dune,moonroof,safari rack,kc daylighters,3.4 Ltr. 5 spd,410s detroit ez locker, OME 891's, KYB shocks3 - 3.25 lift, Tokico,Taco springs,3 in lift in front Rev Tek spacers/top out 4Crawler diff drop, 1 in BL, 4 Runner altimeter, 2.5 in Flowmaster,high flow cat, mandrel steel air intake conical K & N. MSD DIS4,CB with 7 channel wave/weather report,4 foot firestick,Pioneer CD,30 gig IPOD. www.sfaboston.com

10-23-2009, 10:48 AM	#11 (permalink)
gabe74gt Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 6	hey treknwil, loved you machine man! and better is to suggest the same idea. no need to drill holes, you can find out alternatives like that

10-23-2009, 11:39 AM	#12 (permalink)
ESQ Registered User Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: British Columbia Posts: 179	FYI, open circuit voltage doesn't tell you anything about resistance in the circuit __________________ My Build Thread The 4Cruiser: 98 4Runner SR5, 5VZ-FE, Sonoran Steel 1.2, BCC custom swing-arm rear armour, full Budbuilts, 285/75R16 Goodyear Duratracs, extended diff breather, airbox deckplate, red LED cluster, console,Wabfab front discos, Warn M8000 winch, Shrockworks full hoop, PIAA 520s and 510s, Stubbs HD-SKO Sliders, External tran cooler, tundra brakes and 5.29s and ARB lockers next

10-23-2009, 02:19 PM	#14 (permalink)
ESQ Registered User Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: British Columbia Posts: 179	Measure the voltage drop under a known load (similar to your application load). Put an ammeter in series and use a voltmeter in parallel to measure the drop across your known resistance. Now you know the voltage drop across your load at a certain current. Then you take the difference between your open circuit voltage and and the measure load v-drop and, using the known current with the voltage difference, can easily calculate with Ohm's law the 'other' resistance (i.e. the resistance in the wires/connections etc). Hope that helps! __________________ My Build Thread The 4Cruiser: 98 4Runner SR5, 5VZ-FE, Sonoran Steel 1.2, BCC custom swing-arm rear armour, full Budbuilts, 285/75R16 Goodyear Duratracs, extended diff breather, airbox deckplate, red LED cluster, console,Wabfab front discos, Warn M8000 winch, Shrockworks full hoop, PIAA 520s and 510s, Stubbs HD-SKO Sliders, External tran cooler, tundra brakes and 5.29s and ARB lockers next Last edited by ESQ; 10-23-2009 at 02:21 PM.

11-02-2009, 11:14 AM	#15 (permalink)
BOSTON4RUNNER Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Posts: 789	this is still holding up well....hopefully it has been helpful for others in determining how to run their wires __________________ 305k MILES! 97 4Runner Khumo Road Venture MT's 285 75 16's LC wheels,Desert Dune,moonroof,safari rack,kc daylighters,3.4 Ltr. 5 spd,410s detroit ez locker, OME 891's, KYB shocks3 - 3.25 lift, Tokico,Taco springs,3 in lift in front Rev Tek spacers/top out 4Crawler diff drop, 1 in BL, 4 Runner altimeter, 2.5 in Flowmaster,high flow cat, mandrel steel air intake conical K & N. MSD DIS4,CB with 7 channel wave/weather report,4 foot firestick,Pioneer CD,30 gig IPOD. www.sfaboston.com

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