DIY LED Dash Swap: Gauge Cluster, AC, and Compass
12-25-2007, 01:20 PM
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DIY LED Dash Swap: Gauge Cluster, AC, and Compass
I'm having problems getting the pics up!!! need help with that!!
Before we start here are a few things one will need to make this an easy mod.
List of tools/miscellaneous items:
• 50-LED’s SMD SMT PLCC-2 (I used blue) $20
• Soldering iron-35watt cheapy will work $5-10
• Solder and or flux $1-2
• Tweezers
• Small flat head screwdriver
• Phillips screwdriver #2
• 10mm socket and driver
• Handful of Zip-Loc bags
• 2-Spoons (Yes, two)
• Medium size towel
• Large clean work area
This DIY is very wordy on purpose, so that there is no question of what to do. I’m going to make the basic assumption that one knows how to remove the dash trim to get to the gauge cluster, compass/outside temperature/inclinometer unit (CTI) and the AC control unit. Also I’m assuming that one has basic knowledge and skills of soldering. Warning: You can mess your dash up if you do not know what you are doing!!! So with this being said lets start ripping the FJ dash apart!!
Step 1: Parts/Paneling Removal
First, remove dash trim paneling, starting with the left driver side AC vent, then remove both the silver trim bars flanking the radio, a Phillips screw is located a the bottom of each silver bar, remove them bag and label. Remove the 10mm bolt from the bottom right of the lower driver dash panel, bag and label; you can now remove the lower driver dash panel. Once these parts are removed you can now pull the main driver dash panel out. With the main driver dash panel removed, you can see four (4) 10mm bolts, remove them, bag and label. Slowly pull the gauge cluster out, undo both the left and right wire harnesses and harness tab located atop the cluster. Place the gauge cluster in a clean work area.
Next, is to remove the AC control unit. This is done by removing the two (2) Phillips screws holding the AC control unit in place bag and label. Pull the AC control unit out. Then unplug the AC wiring harnesses, there are three (3). Place the AC control unit in a clean work area.
Finally, the compass/outside temperature/inclinometer unit (CTI) removal. Remove the back cover plate of the CTI unit. Locate the two (2) 10mm nuts holding the unit in place; remove the nuts, bag and label. The CTI unit can then be slid toward the rear of the FJ, and released. Unplug the CTI wiring harness from underneath the unit’s footprint. Place the CTI unit in a clean work area.
Step 2: Gauge Cluster Disassembly
Place the gauge cluster face down on the towel to keep from scratching the clear plastic face. Locate the two (2) Phillips head screws on the back, remove bag and label (See Picture 1). Now using the flat head screwdriver, unclip the lock tabs holding the back cover on (See Picture 2). Do the same process for removing the clear lens and inner bezel (See Pictures 3 and 3b). Note needle placement in picture 4, mark locations lightly with a lead pencil for re-install later. Removing the needles can be easily done with two (2) spoons. Slide the spoons under the needle and slowly push the spoons down till the needle comes off (See Picture 5). Remove all the needles, bag and label. With the needles out of the way you can now remove the gauge face (See Picture 6). Here is where you need to be careful. You must slowly remove the LCD screen from the circuit board; the LCD screen is not soldered in, so you can remove it with “ease”. Once the LCD screen is removed bag and label it. You can now remove the green circuit board from the white casing (See Picture 7).
Step 3: Soldering LED’s (Left)
The LED swap is going to be explained from left to right on the circuit board. The LED’s to be removed on the left side are circled in picture 8. I’m only replacing the white LED’s, the turn signal, door ajar, and the seat belt LED. If you look close you will see a letter next to each LED on the circuit board, this corresponds to the color of that LED.
First, remove the three (3) white LED’s from the “tachometer” these are labeled LED4, LED5, and LED7. Install the new LED’s in those locations, the arrows on the circuit board show which way to install them. Next, remove LED29 “Turn-L (G)”, LED2 “D-Belt (R)” and LED28 “Door (R)”. You will use the two (2) red LED’s from the “Door Ajar” and “D-belt” later on the AC unit, so bag and label those (See Picture 8).
After installing these LED’s take the circuit board back into the FJ, and test the LED’s by turning the headlights on with the door open. LED’s 2,4,5,7, and 28 should be lit at this time, test the left blinker also. If all the LED’s work move to step 4.
Step 4: Soldering LED’s (Middle)
The LED’s to be removed from the middle are circled in picture 9. I’m only replacing the white LED’s, the turn signal, and Active-Trac.
First, remove the three (3) white LED’s from the “speedometer” these are labeled LED9, LED11, and LED22. Install the new LED’s in those locations, the arrows on the circuit board show which way to install them. Next, remove LED6, LED23 “Turn-R (G)” and LED34 “A-Trac (G)” (See Picture 9).
After installing these LED’s take the circuit board back into the FJ, and test the LED’s by turning the headlights on with the door open. LED’s 6,9,11 and 22 should be lit at this time, also test right blinker and active-trac. If all the LED’s work move to step 5.
Step 5: Soldering LED’s (Right)
The LED’s to be removed from the right are circled in picture 10. I’m only replacing the white LED’s, Park, Drive, Low, and 4WD.
First, remove the white LED’s labeled LED8, LED10, and LED21. Install the new LED’s in those locations, the arrows on the circuit board show which way to install them. Next, remove LED13 “P (G)”, LED15 “D (G)”, LED19 “L (G)”, and LED45 “4WD (G)” (See Picture 10).
After installing these LED’s take the circuit board back into the FJ, and test the LED’s by turning the headlights on with the door open. LED’s 8, 10, 21 and 13 should be lit at this time, also test drive, low, and 4WD. If all the LED’s work move to step 6.
Step 6: Testing and re-assembly
Test all LED’s that have been replaced on the circuit board. For re-assembly of the gauge cluster follow the reverse procedure of the disassembly. Once the gauge cluster is re-assembled leave it in a safe area for now.
Step 7: AC Control Disassembly
Place the AC control unit face down on the towel to keep from scratching the plastic face. Locate the Phillips head screws on the back, remove bag and label See Picture 11). Now using the flat head screwdriver, unclip the lock tabs holding the back cover on (See Picture 11). Remove the ribbon cable where necessary. Then remove circuit board from black AC casing (See Picture 12).
Step 8: Soldering LED’s (AC unit)
Remove LED’s from left to right on the AC circuit board (See Picture 12). Starting with LED313, LED314, LED310, LED311, and LED312. After installing these LED’s take the circuit board back into the FJ, and test the LED’s by turning the headlights on with the door open. Now remove LED316, LED309, LED308, LED319, LED318, and LED305. Install the new LED’s and test. Next, locate the two (2) red LED’s from step 3, install those in LED306 and LED307 locations. Test. Remove LED315, LED301, LED302, LED303, and LED304. Replace the LED’s with the new ones. Test. If the AC unit passed go to step 9.
Step 9: AC Control Re-assembly
Reverse of the disassembly process. Test the AC control unit after fully assembly. Now is the time to put the dash fully back together and move to step 10.
Step 10: Compass/Outside Temperature/Inclinometer Unit Disassembly
First, remove the bezel around the CTI unit. Next, pull the white casing out of the black housing, there may be Phillips head screw or two on the back side holding it in. You will see a small black piece of plastic that looks like a film, bag and label for re-install later. Then unclip the circuit board from the white case (See Picture 13). Slowly pull the circuit board away from the white casing, be careful when doing this because the LCD screen is snug in the board, take your time it will come out. Move to step 11.
Step 11: Compass/Outside Temperature/Inclinometer Soldering LED’s
The LED swap is going to be explained from left to right on the CTI circuit board. The LED’s to be removed are circled in picture 14. These LED’s are different from the other LED’s, these use four (4) legs, but the LED’s you are replacing them with will work. So, all this means is it’s just going to take a little more time unsoldering and re-soldering them. Remove the CTI LED’s starting with LED100, LED101, LED104, LED105, LED106, LED107, LED102, LED103, LED108, and LED109. After installing these LED’s take the CTI circuit board back into the FJ, and test the LED’s by turning the headlights on with the door open. All the CTI LED’s should light up (See Picture 15). If you are wondering why the picture shows blue and yellow LED’s, I wasn’t finished soldering, I test after every completed circuit soldered (See Picture 16). If all the LED’s work move to step 12.
Step 12: Compass/Outside Temperature/Inclinometer Re-assembly
Reverse of the disassembly process. Remember to put the black film in; it covers the bottom of the LCD screen. Test the CTI control unit after fully assembly. If all is good, bolt the CTI down. Now on to the finally step.
Step 13: Enjoyment
Enjoy your newly modded FJ dash!!! Thanks for using my DIY!!
Before we start here are a few things one will need to make this an easy mod.
List of tools/miscellaneous items:
• 50-LED’s SMD SMT PLCC-2 (I used blue) $20
• Soldering iron-35watt cheapy will work $5-10
• Solder and or flux $1-2
• Tweezers
• Small flat head screwdriver
• Phillips screwdriver #2
• 10mm socket and driver
• Handful of Zip-Loc bags
• 2-Spoons (Yes, two)
• Medium size towel
• Large clean work area
This DIY is very wordy on purpose, so that there is no question of what to do. I’m going to make the basic assumption that one knows how to remove the dash trim to get to the gauge cluster, compass/outside temperature/inclinometer unit (CTI) and the AC control unit. Also I’m assuming that one has basic knowledge and skills of soldering. Warning: You can mess your dash up if you do not know what you are doing!!! So with this being said lets start ripping the FJ dash apart!!
Step 1: Parts/Paneling Removal
First, remove dash trim paneling, starting with the left driver side AC vent, then remove both the silver trim bars flanking the radio, a Phillips screw is located a the bottom of each silver bar, remove them bag and label. Remove the 10mm bolt from the bottom right of the lower driver dash panel, bag and label; you can now remove the lower driver dash panel. Once these parts are removed you can now pull the main driver dash panel out. With the main driver dash panel removed, you can see four (4) 10mm bolts, remove them, bag and label. Slowly pull the gauge cluster out, undo both the left and right wire harnesses and harness tab located atop the cluster. Place the gauge cluster in a clean work area.
Next, is to remove the AC control unit. This is done by removing the two (2) Phillips screws holding the AC control unit in place bag and label. Pull the AC control unit out. Then unplug the AC wiring harnesses, there are three (3). Place the AC control unit in a clean work area.
Finally, the compass/outside temperature/inclinometer unit (CTI) removal. Remove the back cover plate of the CTI unit. Locate the two (2) 10mm nuts holding the unit in place; remove the nuts, bag and label. The CTI unit can then be slid toward the rear of the FJ, and released. Unplug the CTI wiring harness from underneath the unit’s footprint. Place the CTI unit in a clean work area.
Step 2: Gauge Cluster Disassembly
Place the gauge cluster face down on the towel to keep from scratching the clear plastic face. Locate the two (2) Phillips head screws on the back, remove bag and label (See Picture 1). Now using the flat head screwdriver, unclip the lock tabs holding the back cover on (See Picture 2). Do the same process for removing the clear lens and inner bezel (See Pictures 3 and 3b). Note needle placement in picture 4, mark locations lightly with a lead pencil for re-install later. Removing the needles can be easily done with two (2) spoons. Slide the spoons under the needle and slowly push the spoons down till the needle comes off (See Picture 5). Remove all the needles, bag and label. With the needles out of the way you can now remove the gauge face (See Picture 6). Here is where you need to be careful. You must slowly remove the LCD screen from the circuit board; the LCD screen is not soldered in, so you can remove it with “ease”. Once the LCD screen is removed bag and label it. You can now remove the green circuit board from the white casing (See Picture 7).
Step 3: Soldering LED’s (Left)
The LED swap is going to be explained from left to right on the circuit board. The LED’s to be removed on the left side are circled in picture 8. I’m only replacing the white LED’s, the turn signal, door ajar, and the seat belt LED. If you look close you will see a letter next to each LED on the circuit board, this corresponds to the color of that LED.
First, remove the three (3) white LED’s from the “tachometer” these are labeled LED4, LED5, and LED7. Install the new LED’s in those locations, the arrows on the circuit board show which way to install them. Next, remove LED29 “Turn-L (G)”, LED2 “D-Belt (R)” and LED28 “Door (R)”. You will use the two (2) red LED’s from the “Door Ajar” and “D-belt” later on the AC unit, so bag and label those (See Picture 8).
After installing these LED’s take the circuit board back into the FJ, and test the LED’s by turning the headlights on with the door open. LED’s 2,4,5,7, and 28 should be lit at this time, test the left blinker also. If all the LED’s work move to step 4.
Step 4: Soldering LED’s (Middle)
The LED’s to be removed from the middle are circled in picture 9. I’m only replacing the white LED’s, the turn signal, and Active-Trac.
First, remove the three (3) white LED’s from the “speedometer” these are labeled LED9, LED11, and LED22. Install the new LED’s in those locations, the arrows on the circuit board show which way to install them. Next, remove LED6, LED23 “Turn-R (G)” and LED34 “A-Trac (G)” (See Picture 9).
After installing these LED’s take the circuit board back into the FJ, and test the LED’s by turning the headlights on with the door open. LED’s 6,9,11 and 22 should be lit at this time, also test right blinker and active-trac. If all the LED’s work move to step 5.
Step 5: Soldering LED’s (Right)
The LED’s to be removed from the right are circled in picture 10. I’m only replacing the white LED’s, Park, Drive, Low, and 4WD.
First, remove the white LED’s labeled LED8, LED10, and LED21. Install the new LED’s in those locations, the arrows on the circuit board show which way to install them. Next, remove LED13 “P (G)”, LED15 “D (G)”, LED19 “L (G)”, and LED45 “4WD (G)” (See Picture 10).
After installing these LED’s take the circuit board back into the FJ, and test the LED’s by turning the headlights on with the door open. LED’s 8, 10, 21 and 13 should be lit at this time, also test drive, low, and 4WD. If all the LED’s work move to step 6.
Step 6: Testing and re-assembly
Test all LED’s that have been replaced on the circuit board. For re-assembly of the gauge cluster follow the reverse procedure of the disassembly. Once the gauge cluster is re-assembled leave it in a safe area for now.
Step 7: AC Control Disassembly
Place the AC control unit face down on the towel to keep from scratching the plastic face. Locate the Phillips head screws on the back, remove bag and label See Picture 11). Now using the flat head screwdriver, unclip the lock tabs holding the back cover on (See Picture 11). Remove the ribbon cable where necessary. Then remove circuit board from black AC casing (See Picture 12).
Step 8: Soldering LED’s (AC unit)
Remove LED’s from left to right on the AC circuit board (See Picture 12). Starting with LED313, LED314, LED310, LED311, and LED312. After installing these LED’s take the circuit board back into the FJ, and test the LED’s by turning the headlights on with the door open. Now remove LED316, LED309, LED308, LED319, LED318, and LED305. Install the new LED’s and test. Next, locate the two (2) red LED’s from step 3, install those in LED306 and LED307 locations. Test. Remove LED315, LED301, LED302, LED303, and LED304. Replace the LED’s with the new ones. Test. If the AC unit passed go to step 9.
Step 9: AC Control Re-assembly
Reverse of the disassembly process. Test the AC control unit after fully assembly. Now is the time to put the dash fully back together and move to step 10.
Step 10: Compass/Outside Temperature/Inclinometer Unit Disassembly
First, remove the bezel around the CTI unit. Next, pull the white casing out of the black housing, there may be Phillips head screw or two on the back side holding it in. You will see a small black piece of plastic that looks like a film, bag and label for re-install later. Then unclip the circuit board from the white case (See Picture 13). Slowly pull the circuit board away from the white casing, be careful when doing this because the LCD screen is snug in the board, take your time it will come out. Move to step 11.
Step 11: Compass/Outside Temperature/Inclinometer Soldering LED’s
The LED swap is going to be explained from left to right on the CTI circuit board. The LED’s to be removed are circled in picture 14. These LED’s are different from the other LED’s, these use four (4) legs, but the LED’s you are replacing them with will work. So, all this means is it’s just going to take a little more time unsoldering and re-soldering them. Remove the CTI LED’s starting with LED100, LED101, LED104, LED105, LED106, LED107, LED102, LED103, LED108, and LED109. After installing these LED’s take the CTI circuit board back into the FJ, and test the LED’s by turning the headlights on with the door open. All the CTI LED’s should light up (See Picture 15). If you are wondering why the picture shows blue and yellow LED’s, I wasn’t finished soldering, I test after every completed circuit soldered (See Picture 16). If all the LED’s work move to step 12.
Step 12: Compass/Outside Temperature/Inclinometer Re-assembly
Reverse of the disassembly process. Remember to put the black film in; it covers the bottom of the LCD screen. Test the CTI control unit after fully assembly. If all is good, bolt the CTI down. Now on to the finally step.
Step 13: Enjoyment
Enjoy your newly modded FJ dash!!! Thanks for using my DIY!!
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12-25-2007, 02:35 PM
#10
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Hammond LA
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01-01-2008, 08:44 AM
#14
Contributing Member
while i agree with Mikestang about night vision eye stress, cause that is why toyota uses dull colors. and on the other hand, great finish! i changed mine on my Hilux Surf petrol, i mostly used white and UV(black light) i also used 2 blue LEDs but in places where im not affected by them.
02-24-2021, 06:40 PM
#16
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Problem getting needles back in correctly.
Hey TinCan, could you give me some insight into getting the gauge needles back on correctly? I've got the battery, fuel and coolant back on. But the speedometer and tack are giving me trouble. I've put them back on at their zero locations but they're not working right. Any tips?
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