Torsion Bars

offroadie · 12-23-2007, 06:19 PM

Has anyone done any work on their torsion bars? When I got my T, the guy that had it before me tightened those things DOWN to level the front end. It sits nice, but the ride is a little jittery. A local shop said to give 'em some slack to soften the ride, but it'd also lower the stance...

So, I go to try and back the bolts off, and they're so rusted that I'm worried that I'm going to snap 'em! I'm currently working the entire contents of "liquid wrench" can on 'em slowly (daily dosage).

Any tips/pointers/suggestions? Also, if I torque these things in half - where can I get new ones for a reasonable price? Upgrades?

ting...ting...tiiiiing...

seafarinman · 12-23-2007, 06:35 PM

Well I would not recommend aftermarket ones. I had the Sway-a-way ones and well after running them cranked a lot, I only found less flex, and a rougher ride than the stock ones. I recommend that you loosen them and get some of the SDORI Balljoint spacers so that you can have the lift and still a nice compliant ride.

BLKNBLU · 12-23-2007, 06:57 PM

I was lucky and did not break mine but have heard that it is frequently the case that they do. Somebody on here has to know a part # and if it is dealer only. (I bet yes) Maybe edit your title to "t bar adjusting nuts" or something along those lines. There have been enough "t bar" threads on this board that some folks might not even look past the title any more.

Steveh29 · 12-23-2007, 08:20 PM

I had Sway A Way bars for a while and they were indeed terrible for wheeling. I could turn real sharp because they were so stiff, but that was the only quality they had. I since switched to Old Man Emu t bars and LOVE them. Wish I'd bought them years ago. They are thicker than stock but have a much nicer / softer ride than stock and keep my ride height with an ARB bumper.

BLKNBLU · 12-23-2007, 08:29 PM

I don't think he's talking about getting different t bars. Just talking about the adjusting bolts that he is concerned he might break.(which he would still have to deal with if he put in different t bars)

offroadie · 12-23-2007, 08:50 PM

yeah, both actually - my ride is a little firm with the smaller bumps at high speed (on road), but the adjusting bolts are iffy - any info is helpful, as you can see, I'm a newbie.

You guys rock!

James Dean · 12-23-2007, 09:15 PM

When I changed my bars my bolts snapped after about two turns on one and ten turns on the other. I had sprayed stuff on mine for three days before I evan tried. Here's the Toyota part #s for a '93: Bolt 90101-12159, Nut 90179-12074. They are a special designed bolt and nut, you won't be able to replace them with normal ones. They were only like $25 and it doesn't hurt to have new ones.

http://www.jamesdeancreations.com/4r...htm#Suspension

James Dean · 12-23-2007, 09:18 PM

By the way I have Old Man Emu torsion bars and 901HD coil springs and I love them. The ride is firm but not stiff. No lumber wagon here.

BLKNBLU · 12-23-2007, 09:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by James Dean

When I changed my bars my bolts snapped after about two turns. Here's the Toyota part #s: Bolt 90101-12159, Nut 90179-12074. They are a special designed bolt and nut, you won't be able to replace them with normal ones. They were only like $25 and it doesn't hurt to have new ones.

http://www.jamesdeancreations.com/4r...htm#Suspension

Nice!

James Dean · 12-23-2007, 09:30 PM

Here's a pic of a two piece version of the bolt. lol. Notice how the bolt has a shank and the nut has a sleeve that drops down into the adjuster arm. That's why regular blots and nut won't work.

BLKNBLU · 12-23-2007, 09:35 PM

Mine were a little different than that. I had 2 nuts up top. One about 1" or 1 1/2" thick, then a second regular sized nut as a lock. Still, as you say, not a typical hardware store item.

James Dean · 12-23-2007, 09:37 PM

That's true, I didn't show the lock nuts, but those are regular.

wildcatkit52 · 12-23-2007, 11:35 PM

Here is a question. When people break these bolts, where you using air tools or hand tools? I have found that hand tools and the larger amount of torque applied causes more breakage than air.

I completely removed both sides on my 95 T100 yesterday after only a short period of time soaking. I used air tools and had no problems removing or reinstalling these.

If anybody here rides ATV's and owns a Yamaha or has messed with a banshee or the like, you will know how easy the factory lug nuts are to strip using hand tools compared to air tools. These adjustment bolts on torsion bars seem to have the same issues on almost all vehicles using torsion bars I have messed with...

offroadie · 12-24-2007, 11:25 AM

hmm, I haven't seen any locknuts on mine. Are they supposed to be there?

also, are the Old Man Emu bars propriatary? I've noticed a lot of "when used with our _____, for best performance" language on their site, is it cool to just use the bars alone?

AxleIke · 12-24-2007, 12:27 PM

Oh yes, you can use the bars alone. I have the OME bars, and love them. I have BJ spacers, then relaxed back to stock height (so my tbars are lowered 1.5") I have an aftermarket front bumper, and I can say the ride has never been better. (for a torsion bar truck. It still isn't great, but its as good as I've gotten).

I can actually use my entire flex range. Bump stop to bumpstop, very easily, which makes for better performance offroad.

I would recommend the OME tbars if you have a bumper and winch, and stock tbars if you have a stock bumper.

As for the bolts, good luck. I'd just go buy a new pair at the dealer ship. That way, if you break the old ones, no big deal.

There are different bolt/nut combos for various years. I ordered mine from the dealer, and they gave me the wrong ones, since they had a pair from a 1990 4runner in stock. I had to wait for the specific 87 ones to come in.

BLKNBLU · 12-24-2007, 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AxleIke

I would recommend the OME tbars if you have a bumper and winch, and stock tbars if you have a stock bumper.

...X2

James Dean · 12-24-2007, 02:05 PM

Sometimes there are no locknuts. The sleeve on the nut is designed so as not to turn. My ome bars are set to stock height with 1.5" spacers for my lift. I just wanted a stoughter bar for added weight and stability. I have a front hitch for a wench cradle plus other gear.

Jake97T · 12-24-2007, 05:51 PM

the SAW bars arent so bad with a T100, i had them on mine before i did C/Os

CC_yota · 12-24-2007, 08:22 PM

Mine didn't have lock nuts either and when I got my new bolts from the dealership the exploded view for the torsion bars showed no lock nuts, but our 87 has them so it seems to be a year specific deal. I had no choice but to break the driver side bolt. The bolts are fairly inexpensive and the peace of mind is nice. I think it was Deathrunner who said he had heard of the adjuster bolts breaking on guy, puncturing the floor and hitting him in the arse.

See Rock City · 12-25-2007, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by offroadie

Has anyone done any work on their torsion bars? When I got my T, the guy that had it before me tightened those things DOWN to level the front end. It sits nice, but the ride is a little jittery. A local shop said to give 'em some slack to soften the ride, but it'd also lower the stance...

So, I go to try and back the bolts off, and they're so rusted that I'm worried that I'm going to snap 'em! I'm currently working the entire contents of "liquid wrench" can on 'em slowly (daily dosage).

Any tips/pointers/suggestions? Also, if I torque these things in half - where can I get new ones for a reasonable price? Upgrades?

ting...ting...tiiiiing...

Try "Areo Kroil" it is the best rust penetrater out there.
You can get it at Grainger or any industrial supply co.
Soak the bolts it that stuff for a few days and see what happens !!

Good Luck

Klierslc · 12-26-2007, 04:07 PM

FYI, the bolts and nuts for the T100 torsion bars are identical to the 88-95 4runners and trucks. It is a lot easier to find one of those in a boneyard than a T100..

12-23-2007, 06:19 PM	#1 (permalink)
offroadie Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: North FLorida, practiaclly Georgia. Posts: 44	Torsion Bars Has anyone done any work on their torsion bars? When I got my T, the guy that had it before me tightened those things DOWN to level the front end. It sits nice, but the ride is a little jittery. A local shop said to give 'em some slack to soften the ride, but it'd also lower the stance... So, I go to try and back the bolts off, and they're so rusted that I'm worried that I'm going to snap 'em! I'm currently working the entire contents of "liquid wrench" can on 'em slowly (daily dosage). Any tips/pointers/suggestions? Also, if I torque these things in half - where can I get new ones for a reasonable price? Upgrades? ting...ting...tiiiiing... __________________ Try to keep the rubber side down... '88 SR5 Xtra Cab, 3VZ-E/5-spd, Marlin Crawler shifter kit, ASIN hubs, Pro Comp 31x10.50 A/T's, LEER topper, 156,xxx miles, Radio? CD player? Bah! Daily Driver: '90 Honda Civic Hatchback a.k.a. "Goldie" - 98k orig miles! 36mpg

12-23-2007, 06:35 PM	#2 (permalink)
seafarinman Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Kitsap County WA Posts: 973	Well I would not recommend aftermarket ones. I had the Sway-a-way ones and well after running them cranked a lot, I only found less flex, and a rougher ride than the stock ones. I recommend that you loosen them and get some of the SDORI Balljoint spacers so that you can have the lift and still a nice compliant ride. __________________ Rome the "Seafarinman" IT1(SW) US NAVY 1994 SAS 2RZ/R151F=244:1! http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a176/seafarinman/ Last edited by seafarinman : 12-23-2007 at 06:37 PM.

12-23-2007, 06:57 PM	#3 (permalink)
BLKNBLU Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Gilbert, Arizona Posts: 1,226	I was lucky and did not break mine but have heard that it is frequently the case that they do. Somebody on here has to know a part # and if it is dealer only. (I bet yes) Maybe edit your title to "t bar adjusting nuts" or something along those lines. There have been enough "t bar" threads on this board that some folks might not even look past the title any more. __________________ 86 Runner, BFG 31's, custom Sonoran Steel rear bumper, 4Crawler 1" body lift, rock sliders from Richard Stubbs, Downey 3" lift rear leaf springs, SDORI ball joint spacers, rear Lockright

12-23-2007, 08:20 PM	#4 (permalink)
Steveh29 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 710	I had Sway A Way bars for a while and they were indeed terrible for wheeling. I could turn real sharp because they were so stiff, but that was the only quality they had. I since switched to Old Man Emu t bars and LOVE them. Wish I'd bought them years ago. They are thicker than stock but have a much nicer / softer ride than stock and keep my ride height with an ARB bumper. __________________ Steve 1995 4Runner - V6 - 5 Speed Rear ARB, Manual Hubs, Front TruTrac, Marlin Transmission

12-23-2007, 08:29 PM	#5 (permalink)
BLKNBLU Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Gilbert, Arizona Posts: 1,226	I don't think he's talking about getting different t bars. Just talking about the adjusting bolts that he is concerned he might break.(which he would still have to deal with if he put in different t bars) __________________ 86 Runner, BFG 31's, custom Sonoran Steel rear bumper, 4Crawler 1" body lift, rock sliders from Richard Stubbs, Downey 3" lift rear leaf springs, SDORI ball joint spacers, rear Lockright

12-23-2007, 08:50 PM	#6 (permalink)
offroadie Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: North FLorida, practiaclly Georgia. Posts: 44	yeah, both actually - my ride is a little firm with the smaller bumps at high speed (on road), but the adjusting bolts are iffy - any info is helpful, as you can see, I'm a newbie. You guys rock! __________________ Try to keep the rubber side down... '88 SR5 Xtra Cab, 3VZ-E/5-spd, Marlin Crawler shifter kit, ASIN hubs, Pro Comp 31x10.50 A/T's, LEER topper, 156,xxx miles, Radio? CD player? Bah! Daily Driver: '90 Honda Civic Hatchback a.k.a. "Goldie" - 98k orig miles! 36mpg

12-23-2007, 09:15 PM	#7 (permalink)
James Dean Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Tucson, AZ Posts: 354	When I changed my bars my bolts snapped after about two turns on one and ten turns on the other. I had sprayed stuff on mine for three days before I evan tried. Here's the Toyota part #s for a '93: Bolt 90101-12159, Nut 90179-12074. They are a special designed bolt and nut, you won't be able to replace them with normal ones. They were only like $25 and it doesn't hurt to have new ones. http://www.jamesdeancreations.com/4r...htm#Suspension __________________ Custom painter and Toyota Stripe and decall supplier. http://jamesdeancreations.com Custom Safari and Crawlin accessories. http://www.jamesdeancreations.com/4runner_project.htm Last edited by James Dean : 12-24-2007 at 02:06 PM.

12-23-2007, 09:18 PM	#8 (permalink)
James Dean Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Tucson, AZ Posts: 354	By the way I have Old Man Emu torsion bars and 901HD coil springs and I love them. The ride is firm but not stiff. No lumber wagon here. __________________ Custom painter and Toyota Stripe and decall supplier. http://jamesdeancreations.com Custom Safari and Crawlin accessories. http://www.jamesdeancreations.com/4runner_project.htm

12-23-2007, 09:30 PM	#10 (permalink)
James Dean Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Tucson, AZ Posts: 354	Here's a pic of a two piece version of the bolt. lol. Notice how the bolt has a shank and the nut has a sleeve that drops down into the adjuster arm. That's why regular blots and nut won't work. __________________ Custom painter and Toyota Stripe and decall supplier. http://jamesdeancreations.com Custom Safari and Crawlin accessories. http://www.jamesdeancreations.com/4runner_project.htm

12-23-2007, 09:35 PM	#11 (permalink)
BLKNBLU Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Gilbert, Arizona Posts: 1,226	Mine were a little different than that. I had 2 nuts up top. One about 1" or 1 1/2" thick, then a second regular sized nut as a lock. Still, as you say, not a typical hardware store item. __________________ 86 Runner, BFG 31's, custom Sonoran Steel rear bumper, 4Crawler 1" body lift, rock sliders from Richard Stubbs, Downey 3" lift rear leaf springs, SDORI ball joint spacers, rear Lockright

12-23-2007, 09:37 PM	#12 (permalink)
James Dean Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Tucson, AZ Posts: 354	That's true, I didn't show the lock nuts, but those are regular. __________________ Custom painter and Toyota Stripe and decall supplier. http://jamesdeancreations.com Custom Safari and Crawlin accessories. http://www.jamesdeancreations.com/4runner_project.htm

12-23-2007, 11:35 PM	#13 (permalink)
wildcatkit52 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Russellville, AR Posts: 17	Here is a question. When people break these bolts, where you using air tools or hand tools? I have found that hand tools and the larger amount of torque applied causes more breakage than air. I completely removed both sides on my 95 T100 yesterday after only a short period of time soaking. I used air tools and had no problems removing or reinstalling these. If anybody here rides ATV's and owns a Yamaha or has messed with a banshee or the like, you will know how easy the factory lug nuts are to strip using hand tools compared to air tools. These adjustment bolts on torsion bars seem to have the same issues on almost all vehicles using torsion bars I have messed with... __________________ SFC Hubbard 95 T100 SR5 ($500 needed transfer case!) Rancho 9000 shocks just added, days away from wheels and tires, ball joint spacers/shackles tbars [color="Red"] 99 Chevy S10 Blazer5 inch lift, various A/M parts. Stuck 60K engine in. 4Sale if you need it! 89 GMC Heavy HalfTon 4/6in ProComp lift Parting out all but engine tranny Rear axle 89 GMC 'burban new 8 in spring/shackle lift tranny went parting some keeping some for 86 truck build 92 Camaro WIP 66 Buick Skylark GranSport WIP Last edited by wildcatkit52 : 12-23-2007 at 11:37 PM.

12-24-2007, 11:25 AM	#14 (permalink)
offroadie Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: North FLorida, practiaclly Georgia. Posts: 44	hmm, I haven't seen any locknuts on mine. Are they supposed to be there? also, are the Old Man Emu bars propriatary? I've noticed a lot of "when used with our _____, for best performance" language on their site, is it cool to just use the bars alone? __________________ Try to keep the rubber side down... '88 SR5 Xtra Cab, 3VZ-E/5-spd, Marlin Crawler shifter kit, ASIN hubs, Pro Comp 31x10.50 A/T's, LEER topper, 156,xxx miles, Radio? CD player? Bah! Daily Driver: '90 Honda Civic Hatchback a.k.a. "Goldie" - 98k orig miles! 36mpg

12-24-2007, 12:27 PM	#15 (permalink)
AxleIke Contributing Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Boulder, Colorado Posts: 4,558	Oh yes, you can use the bars alone. I have the OME bars, and love them. I have BJ spacers, then relaxed back to stock height (so my tbars are lowered 1.5") I have an aftermarket front bumper, and I can say the ride has never been better. (for a torsion bar truck. It still isn't great, but its as good as I've gotten). I can actually use my entire flex range. Bump stop to bumpstop, very easily, which makes for better performance offroad. I would recommend the OME tbars if you have a bumper and winch, and stock tbars if you have a stock bumper. As for the bolts, good luck. I'd just go buy a new pair at the dealer ship. That way, if you break the old ones, no big deal. There are different bolt/nut combos for various years. I ordered mine from the dealer, and they gave me the wrong ones, since they had a pair from a 1990 4runner in stock. I had to wait for the specific 87 ones to come in. __________________ IFS SAS My mods aren't bling enough for the signature line. -All Terrains are for when you know how to drive.

12-24-2007, 02:05 PM	#17 (permalink)
James Dean Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Tucson, AZ Posts: 354	Sometimes there are no locknuts. The sleeve on the nut is designed so as not to turn. My ome bars are set to stock height with 1.5" spacers for my lift. I just wanted a stoughter bar for added weight and stability. I have a front hitch for a wench cradle plus other gear. __________________ Custom painter and Toyota Stripe and decall supplier. http://jamesdeancreations.com Custom Safari and Crawlin accessories. http://www.jamesdeancreations.com/4runner_project.htm

12-24-2007, 05:51 PM	#18 (permalink)
Jake97T Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Rexburg, ID Posts: 26	the SAW bars arent so bad with a T100, i had them on mine before i did C/Os

12-24-2007, 08:22 PM	#19 (permalink)
CC_yota Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: ATX/ Waco Posts: 374	Mine didn't have lock nuts either and when I got my new bolts from the dealership the exploded view for the torsion bars showed no lock nuts, but our 87 has them so it seems to be a year specific deal. I had no choice but to break the driver side bolt. The bolts are fairly inexpensive and the peace of mind is nice. I think it was Deathrunner who said he had heard of the adjuster bolts breaking on guy, puncturing the floor and hitting him in the arse. __________________ 95 4Runner- 3vze- A/T- 4.88's Currently LC Coils BJ Spacers SAW T-Bars 32x11.50 BFG A/T's 15x8 black Rockcrawlers Marlin Crawler rear bumper

12-26-2007, 04:07 PM	#21 (permalink)
Klierslc Registered User Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 60	FYI, the bolts and nuts for the T100 torsion bars are identical to the 88-95 4runners and trucks. It is a lot easier to find one of those in a boneyard than a T100.. __________________ 94 FZJ80 fully locked, OME lift, 285s; 95 T100 beater edition; 1995 LS 400. No problem, I'll tow the pig with a Uhaul Trailer... "A vehicle's capabilities are inseparably linked to the mental instability of the driver"