97 T100 SR5 Rotors
09-14-2006, 08:56 AM
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97 T100 SR5 Rotors
[IMG]desktop[/IMG]I know there is already a post about the T100 rotors, but I still am not satisfied with the answers to get the job done. I have a 97 T100 SR5(4x4 obviously) and i dont understand exactly how the rotors come off. If anyone has any guidelines i could follow, please share them! If pictures of my Rotor/Brake set-up would help determine what i need, just let me know and i'll post them ASAP! Thank you all in advance
-Joey (YotaTech Newbie!)
-Joey (YotaTech Newbie!)
Last edited by J_Swaleh; 09-14-2006 at 09:17 AM.
09-14-2006, 09:23 AM
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I'm sure someone has the FSM for the T100 somewhere...or maybe you could find one.
heres an old trick but it still works. Call up your local stealership, and get a service guy on the phone, and just talk like you know what your talking about, make up a shop name tell them...
"Hey there _____ (insert tech name here), this is Joey over at _____ (enter shop name here), we've got a customers car over here and we are kind of stuck, I was wondering if you could tell me exactly how the rotors come off of a 97 T100?" He will more than likely tell you he doesnt know but he'll get one of his tech guys, and then voila. The information is yours. Old, and simple, but it almost always works.
heres an old trick but it still works. Call up your local stealership, and get a service guy on the phone, and just talk like you know what your talking about, make up a shop name tell them...
"Hey there _____ (insert tech name here), this is Joey over at _____ (enter shop name here), we've got a customers car over here and we are kind of stuck, I was wondering if you could tell me exactly how the rotors come off of a 97 T100?" He will more than likely tell you he doesnt know but he'll get one of his tech guys, and then voila. The information is yours. Old, and simple, but it almost always works.
09-14-2006, 09:34 AM
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If you need help diassembling the hub: http://jojosplace.net/cjm/hubs.pdf
I am still stuck on what I am gonna do, changing brakes and rotors are easy but its the hub that worries me. I dont wanna remove it and findout it comes off in a ton of little pieces that I couldnt asemble back together right. THus far nobody has mentioned how difficult it is.
I am still stuck on what I am gonna do, changing brakes and rotors are easy but its the hub that worries me. I dont wanna remove it and findout it comes off in a ton of little pieces that I couldnt asemble back together right. THus far nobody has mentioned how difficult it is.
09-14-2006, 02:31 PM
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I am looking in my FSM and the front rotors bolt to the hubs. Bearings are pressed into both sides of the hub.
To get to the hub you must remove the flange or manual locking hubs, gasket, lock nut, washer, adjusting nut, washer, and then you will be at the hub. Remove the hub with rotor attached and examine bearings. This is when you would repack or replace the wheel bearings.
You will need new oil seals that go on the outside of each bearing, wheel bearing grease, lock nuts (if they get staked during installation), and wheel bearing grease.
Measure your rotors before doing anything. The minimum thickness is 23mm. Any thinner and they should be replaced.
On a side note. I have 145,000 miles on my T100. I am still running the original rotors. I replace the pads as needed and break the glaze on the rotor with sandpaper. So far so good, no warping/pulsation, although I will have to get in there in the next 6 months to repack the bearings.
To get to the hub you must remove the flange or manual locking hubs, gasket, lock nut, washer, adjusting nut, washer, and then you will be at the hub. Remove the hub with rotor attached and examine bearings. This is when you would repack or replace the wheel bearings.
You will need new oil seals that go on the outside of each bearing, wheel bearing grease, lock nuts (if they get staked during installation), and wheel bearing grease.
Measure your rotors before doing anything. The minimum thickness is 23mm. Any thinner and they should be replaced.
On a side note. I have 145,000 miles on my T100. I am still running the original rotors. I replace the pads as needed and break the glaze on the rotor with sandpaper. So far so good, no warping/pulsation, although I will have to get in there in the next 6 months to repack the bearings.
09-14-2006, 09:26 PM
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I am looking in my FSM and the front rotors bolt to the hubs. Bearings are pressed into both sides of the hub.
To get to the hub you must remove the flange or manual locking hubs, gasket, lock nut, washer, adjusting nut, washer, and then you will be at the hub. Remove the hub with rotor attached and examine bearings. This is when you would repack or replace the wheel bearings.
You will need new oil seals that go on the outside of each bearing, wheel bearing grease, lock nuts (if they get staked during installation), and wheel bearing grease.
Measure your rotors before doing anything. The minimum thickness is 23mm. Any thinner and they should be replaced.
On a side note. I have 145,000 miles on my T100. I am still running the original rotors. I replace the pads as needed and break the glaze on the rotor with sandpaper. So far so good, no warping/pulsation, although I will have to get in there in the next 6 months to repack the bearings.
To get to the hub you must remove the flange or manual locking hubs, gasket, lock nut, washer, adjusting nut, washer, and then you will be at the hub. Remove the hub with rotor attached and examine bearings. This is when you would repack or replace the wheel bearings.
You will need new oil seals that go on the outside of each bearing, wheel bearing grease, lock nuts (if they get staked during installation), and wheel bearing grease.
Measure your rotors before doing anything. The minimum thickness is 23mm. Any thinner and they should be replaced.
On a side note. I have 145,000 miles on my T100. I am still running the original rotors. I replace the pads as needed and break the glaze on the rotor with sandpaper. So far so good, no warping/pulsation, although I will have to get in there in the next 6 months to repack the bearings.
Thats has answered my question, I rather have someone else do it if it seems this complicated.. Although according to that pdf file I linked to it seems pretty straight foward, if you could take a look at that NY T100 and tell me if thats it I would highly appreciate it.
Incase I do decide to do this: where do you find the oil seals?
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09-16-2006, 03:46 PM
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I think it is pretty staright forward. I believe there may be cone washers holding the flange on. Be careful I've read that they go shooting out across the garage when they come out as you tap on the studs. That pdf file looked accurate as fas as the hub goes.
I think the bearings come out easily, and you should be able to tap the new oil seasl in carefully with a wooden mallet or rubber hammer. I put in a rear main seal on a 22RE engine and I think the rear main seal is similar to the wheel bearing seal. The seal is fairly rigid and as long as it is aligned correctly it will o right in. I would recommend going to the dealer for the oil seals. I don't think they are that costly and they will fit well.
A few years ago I paid to have all of my front wheel bearings replaced at the dealer. So far no problems and it has been 25k miles.
Last year I found a guy selling a T100 FSM on yotatech and I bought it. I would recommend buying one or finding someone in your area to borrow one from.
I think the bearings come out easily, and you should be able to tap the new oil seasl in carefully with a wooden mallet or rubber hammer. I put in a rear main seal on a 22RE engine and I think the rear main seal is similar to the wheel bearing seal. The seal is fairly rigid and as long as it is aligned correctly it will o right in. I would recommend going to the dealer for the oil seals. I don't think they are that costly and they will fit well.
A few years ago I paid to have all of my front wheel bearings replaced at the dealer. So far no problems and it has been 25k miles.
Last year I found a guy selling a T100 FSM on yotatech and I bought it. I would recommend buying one or finding someone in your area to borrow one from.
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