toyota 4runner rear window
#1
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toyota 4runner rear window
so everyone knows that the rear windows on the 1st gen runners are plagued with problems, i was curious to know if anyone has ever just by-passed the relays and just ran it straight from the factory rear window motor switch right to the window motor instead of having to deal with the wiper switch and the relays, any input would be awesome
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On my post 185-186, I had to do it for awhile. On my 361 and 365 post I have a ground wire that bypasses 2 relays. Geting rid of tow of the safety features works great for me.
Edited: Added link>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51722787
Edited: Added link>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51722787
Last edited by Terrys87; 09-04-2013 at 01:36 AM.
#3
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I have every intention of running a momentary switch in the dash to run mine. thing has worked great for me for awhile, drove to work one day, got back in it for the ride home for lunch and poof, window didnt work. I went to the scrap yard (simply cuz i didnt want to wait to order one) and found about 4-5 other switches---still nothing. Im going to figure which wires (cuz there are only two that go all the way back) to the motor and wire in a momentary switch to run it direct...done screwin with it.
#4
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12voltguy.com has a rear window switch kit.
Or you can bypass all the stock interlock switches and then just use the factory switches and relays. I have basically the stock setup in my '85, except for the power bypass and it still works fine:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ow.shtml#Relay
Or you can bypass all the stock interlock switches and then just use the factory switches and relays. I have basically the stock setup in my '85, except for the power bypass and it still works fine:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ow.shtml#Relay
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A double Pole Double Throw switch directly to positive and negative. Thats how I have it on mine, but it can roll up and down when open, which could be a bad thing.
1 4
2 5
3 6
the switch looks like that,
1-Positive to window motor
2-+12v
3-Negative to window motor
4-Negative to window motor
5-Ground
6-Positive to window motor.
1 4
2 5
3 6
the switch looks like that,
1-Positive to window motor
2-+12v
3-Negative to window motor
4-Negative to window motor
5-Ground
6-Positive to window motor.
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#9
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Sounds like something mechanical. Could be the rubber molding is somehow messed up, perhaps loose or sticky *try some dry silicone spray lube). Or the tracks inside the door might be loose or out of alignment. Or maybe one of the drive gears has a missing tooth and that is causing the problem. Best bet it to pull the panel off the door and then watch the mechanism as you roll the window up and down.
#12
Yes, I've done exactly that!
I rewired my rear window in my 85, bypassing all the safety interlocks and relay. Its not the best way to solve the problem, because I lose the functionality of my rear wiper, and tailgate switch. But, I just wanted the dang thing to roll up and down. I purchased a DPDT reverse polarity switch, just like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-Amp-Rocker-Switch-Polarity-Reverse-DC-Motor-Control-Momentary-/400943212969?hash=item5d5a13e9a9 . I ran a power lead straight off my positive battery post (I know theres better ways to get your power), with an in-line 15 amp fuse, and to the switch. Then I ran a ground lead from the switch to a nice shiney spot on my firewall and bolted it down. Then I ran two leads from the switch to the window motor. You just unplug the motor in the tailgate and you'll see two prongs you can connect straight to, and that's it! Window rolls up and down whenever I want every time. The switch was almost a perfect fit for the factory switch hole, just had to file the edges a hair. It looks like its stock, which was a big concern of mine. Hope I helped!
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