Swapped cabs, now the harness is the only hang up.
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Swapped cabs, now the harness is the only hang up.
I recently bought a cab from an 87 pickup to put on my 85. The 85 cab was garbage, and the 87 cab is in excellent condition.
I got the new cab mounted today and started hooking everything back up. I went through and labeled every connection under the hood. The only problem is that there are some connections from the engine that are not accounted for in the new harness.
The 87 harness was complete, and there is no evidence of it having been tampered with in the past. I don't really want to go back to the original harness. it was a rats nest and the prior owner did very poor work when he did repairs on it.
Both trucks are the same 22R 4x4's only a 2 year difference in the harness.
I have done searches, and mostly what I get are people asking about EFI swap harness issues.
I will take some pics tomorrow of the connectors, there are 4 or 5 that I can not figure out. Wiring is not my strongest suit, but if I have to add to the harness I will.
Does anyone have any experience in this kind of swap?
Thanks for reading.
I got the new cab mounted today and started hooking everything back up. I went through and labeled every connection under the hood. The only problem is that there are some connections from the engine that are not accounted for in the new harness.
The 87 harness was complete, and there is no evidence of it having been tampered with in the past. I don't really want to go back to the original harness. it was a rats nest and the prior owner did very poor work when he did repairs on it.
Both trucks are the same 22R 4x4's only a 2 year difference in the harness.
I have done searches, and mostly what I get are people asking about EFI swap harness issues.
I will take some pics tomorrow of the connectors, there are 4 or 5 that I can not figure out. Wiring is not my strongest suit, but if I have to add to the harness I will.
Does anyone have any experience in this kind of swap?
Thanks for reading.
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Thanks for the reply Wyoming. This is what I am missing.
First is this 6 pin connector
That connects to these two smaller connectors under the air filter:
This is the spot on the old harness for this connector:
I think this may be what I need to connect, but the coupling is different, this coupling on the harness is a 5 pin, and the old one is a 6.
First is this 6 pin connector
That connects to these two smaller connectors under the air filter:
This is the spot on the old harness for this connector:
I think this may be what I need to connect, but the coupling is different, this coupling on the harness is a 5 pin, and the old one is a 6.
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You didn't by chance have one of the trucks being a California Emissions truck and the other not did you? California models have several more plugs. I swapped a truck from 22r to 22re and I don't recall any square plugs like you are showing that I recall. I may have, just may not remember if I did or not.
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Terry, sorry I missed your post, somehow I did not get a notification. The truck the donor cab was from is a truck with CA emissions setup. I found the correct plug on my old harness and spliced it into the correct wires, that is working fine now.
I also was able to properly connect the wires that run from the cab to the rear lights and everything in that part of town. All of that is working now. I only have one more issue left before I am done.
The wires coming off the VALVE ASSY, ELECTRIC AIR CONTROL (copied and pasted that text) are not to be found on the new harness. What do those wires run to? I tries to find them on the wiring diagram, but I am bad at reading them.
The second issue is this guy>
I also was able to properly connect the wires that run from the cab to the rear lights and everything in that part of town. All of that is working now. I only have one more issue left before I am done.
The wires coming off the VALVE ASSY, ELECTRIC AIR CONTROL (copied and pasted that text) are not to be found on the new harness. What do those wires run to? I tries to find them on the wiring diagram, but I am bad at reading them.
The second issue is this guy>
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I am not sure what it is called or what it would connect to past the harness.
I really appreciate the help you both have given me.
Thanks.
I really appreciate the help you both have given me.
Thanks.
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Can you post a picture of what that plug is connected to? I will be seeing my brother tomorrow and he as an 87 22r and I will see what he has. He has a Webber on his so don't know if that will make a difference. If all goes as planned, I will get some photos tomorrow as well that might help.
Last edited by Terrys87; 08-23-2014 at 12:57 AM.
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Which plug? The plug from the first post or the second?
The first plug is connected to this>
The second is connected below the exhaust manifold to the pipes going to the cat.
Which should I take a picture of?
Thank you.
The first plug is connected to this>
The second is connected below the exhaust manifold to the pipes going to the cat.
Which should I take a picture of?
Thank you.
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The one with the second issue that you were talking about in the post above.
I don't know the carb as well and I am not recognizing the that part that ends in 35020. May be when I see his truck I will recognize it. This is on the newest picture that you posted.
I don't know the carb as well and I am not recognizing the that part that ends in 35020. May be when I see his truck I will recognize it. This is on the newest picture that you posted.
Last edited by Terrys87; 08-23-2014 at 01:06 AM.
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I converted an 86 California 22r motor to EFi. I still have most of the harness all boxed up and will take a look at it and see if I can find anything like that but it will be tomorrow before I can get to it. I would think 86 and 87 to be the same or close.
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Ok, so got the pictures of the connections I am missing on the new harness.
The second connection that I was asking about that is on the drivers side connected to the exhaust. It is the plug marked X.
Here the the palce on the exhaust it connects to in the light of day>
The second connection that I was asking about that is on the drivers side connected to the exhaust. It is the plug marked X.
Here the the palce on the exhaust it connects to in the light of day>
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My brothers truck isnt showing anything like you have, His is non California and has a Webber. Probably what you have is emissions.
Here is some pictures of his.
Only green plug goes to distributor.
Off of main harness and goes to carb. Not sure what it does.
Goes to Temp senders off of same harness.
Here is some pictures of his.
Only green plug goes to distributor.
Off of main harness and goes to carb. Not sure what it does.
Goes to Temp senders off of same harness.
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Thanks for the pictures Terry!
That Weber really cleans up the engine bay, I really need to find one of the CA legal Webers ASAP.
The pictures help, thank you. I think I can figure that out now.
I am wondering, on the first picture you have posted there look the be brass rails or lines coking from the exhaust ports, what are they? I do not have those.
That Weber really cleans up the engine bay, I really need to find one of the CA legal Webers ASAP.
The pictures help, thank you. I think I can figure that out now.
I am wondering, on the first picture you have posted there look the be brass rails or lines coking from the exhaust ports, what are they? I do not have those.
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The last thing I would ask is about the clutch cancel.
On my 85 there was no switch, it seemed to be always on. I never had to use the clutch to start it. Now there is an actual switch on the console, and I can not find the connector in the interior harness. I have read that the wires connect to the trans and send a signal there to bypass the clutch. There should be a connector in the interior of my 87 harness, correct?
I am really missing the ability to skip the clutch press.
On my 85 there was no switch, it seemed to be always on. I never had to use the clutch to start it. Now there is an actual switch on the console, and I can not find the connector in the interior harness. I have read that the wires connect to the trans and send a signal there to bypass the clutch. There should be a connector in the interior of my 87 harness, correct?
I am really missing the ability to skip the clutch press.
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Simple matter is just jumper the switch on the clutch pedal.
It has nothing to do with the transmission the switch closes when the pedal is pushed in allowing the engine to crank
It is part of the starting circuit the switch on the dash has a white plug with three wires black/red black /yellow white /black which is the ground.
the switch on the pedal has a white plug with two wires black/red and white/black which is your ground.
this is out of the 87 EWD
It has nothing to do with the transmission the switch closes when the pedal is pushed in allowing the engine to crank
It is part of the starting circuit the switch on the dash has a white plug with three wires black/red black /yellow white /black which is the ground.
the switch on the pedal has a white plug with two wires black/red and white/black which is your ground.
this is out of the 87 EWD
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The brass rail goes to the PAIR valve on newer EFI trucks. I dont think it actually goes on a carbed truck. I just noticed as you mentioned. It may be on carbed trucks and as I am not as familiar with carbs. It is for emissions. I did look at his truck and it is not connected to anything. My guess is the previous owner needed a new exhaust manifold and just took it off of an newer truck. You can use them if need be and there is also block off plates that you can buy to remove that brass pipe.
I dont know if Webbers can be used in California. If you can use one in California, I would really suggest getting one. The Toyota carburator is a good carburator, but if it has 250 thousand miles on it, it probably has millions of movements on the pivoting points and they will wallow out those pivot points and leak. Most are just worn out.
Not only is a Webber easier to work on, they clean up the engine bay and when set up right, one pump of the foot pedal and it will fire up real quick. It is unbelieveable how fast they will start up.
My 85 did not have a Cancel Switch. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f198...l#post52210550 Link showing where I had to add the newer style clutch pedal assembly. I had to replace my harness with an 87 harness and they do have the cancel switch. My 86 Runner has the Cancel Switch and I am fairly sure that is the first year of the Cancel Switch.
Another thing I have learned on the 85s, some or maybe all did not have the Starter Relay. As I understand it the automatics did have the Starter Relay.
I dont know if Webbers can be used in California. If you can use one in California, I would really suggest getting one. The Toyota carburator is a good carburator, but if it has 250 thousand miles on it, it probably has millions of movements on the pivoting points and they will wallow out those pivot points and leak. Most are just worn out.
Not only is a Webber easier to work on, they clean up the engine bay and when set up right, one pump of the foot pedal and it will fire up real quick. It is unbelieveable how fast they will start up.
My 85 did not have a Cancel Switch. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f198...l#post52210550 Link showing where I had to add the newer style clutch pedal assembly. I had to replace my harness with an 87 harness and they do have the cancel switch. My 86 Runner has the Cancel Switch and I am fairly sure that is the first year of the Cancel Switch.
Another thing I have learned on the 85s, some or maybe all did not have the Starter Relay. As I understand it the automatics did have the Starter Relay.
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Simple matter is just jumper the switch on the clutch pedal.
It has nothing to do with the transmission the switch closes when the pedal is pushed in allowing the engine to crank
It is part of the starting circuit the switch on the dash has a white plug with three wires black/red black /yellow white /black which is the ground.
the switch on the pedal has a white plug with two wires black/red and white/black which is your ground.
this is out of the 87 EWD
It has nothing to do with the transmission the switch closes when the pedal is pushed in allowing the engine to crank
It is part of the starting circuit the switch on the dash has a white plug with three wires black/red black /yellow white /black which is the ground.
the switch on the pedal has a white plug with two wires black/red and white/black which is your ground.
this is out of the 87 EWD
I found the plug on the harness for the clutch cancel, it was tucked behind the tubular piece of metal that runs across the cab. I go it hooked up today. It is kind of weird, do you have to push it in every time you want to start the truck?
I kind of miss not having to do anything but turn the key.
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The brass rail goes to the PAIR valve on newer EFI trucks. I dont think it actually goes on a carbed truck. I just noticed as you mentioned. It may be on carbed trucks and as I am not as familiar with carbs. It is for emissions. I did look at his truck and it is not connected to anything. My guess is the previous owner needed a new exhaust manifold and just took it off of an newer truck. You can use them if need be and there is also block off plates that you can buy to remove that brass pipe.
I dont know if Webbers can be used in California. If you can use one in California, I would really suggest getting one. The Toyota carburator is a good carburator, but if it has 250 thousand miles on it, it probably has millions of movements on the pivoting points and they will wallow out those pivot points and leak. Most are just worn out.
Not only is a Webber easier to work on, they clean up the engine bay and when set up right, one pump of the foot pedal and it will fire up real quick. It is unbelieveable how fast they will start up.
My 85 did not have a Cancel Switch. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f198...l#post52210550 Link showing where I had to add the newer style clutch pedal assembly. I had to replace my harness with an 87 harness and they do have the cancel switch. My 86 Runner has the Cancel Switch and I am fairly sure that is the first year of the Cancel Switch.
Another thing I have learned on the 85s, some or maybe all did not have the Starter Relay. As I understand it the automatics did have the Starter Relay.
I dont know if Webbers can be used in California. If you can use one in California, I would really suggest getting one. The Toyota carburator is a good carburator, but if it has 250 thousand miles on it, it probably has millions of movements on the pivoting points and they will wallow out those pivot points and leak. Most are just worn out.
Not only is a Webber easier to work on, they clean up the engine bay and when set up right, one pump of the foot pedal and it will fire up real quick. It is unbelieveable how fast they will start up.
My 85 did not have a Cancel Switch. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f198...l#post52210550 Link showing where I had to add the newer style clutch pedal assembly. I had to replace my harness with an 87 harness and they do have the cancel switch. My 86 Runner has the Cancel Switch and I am fairly sure that is the first year of the Cancel Switch.
Another thing I have learned on the 85s, some or maybe all did not have the Starter Relay. As I understand it the automatics did have the Starter Relay.
The carb on the truck currently is factory, I am not too big a fan of it. Kind of a pain to rebuild, and it takes a mess of vacuum lines that clutter the engine bay.
It has about 200,000 miles on it so far. I can get a CA emissions compliant Weber, but not as easily as one that does not comply. Hopefully I can get one on this year. I am really looking forward to it.
What is the purpose of the starter relay? Does it cut the starter out of the clutch is not pressed in? Sorry about the questions. I am learning as I go with Toyota trucks. I wasted so much time on American V8 cars from the 60's, I wish I had got a Toyota sooner.
I finally got to go on the test drive tonight. It was really nice driving a truck with a new interior. I still have a few things to do, but it is worlds better than what I had before.
I did have a problem with the horn though, and it was a problem before as well. When I got my truck the factory horn did not work. And the PO had wired up an old timey ooga horn to a switch right over where the clutch cancel would go. I got a new wheel and wired it up. The horn worked for a bit then let out a really loud pop and shorted out. I have taken it apart and all seems well, not really sure where I am going wrong. Has anyone ever experienced that? I looked around for some ideas, but only found a thread about a guys horn catching on fire. Will have to check tomorrow and see if it is a fuse or something else I am missing.
Thank you both for all of your help. I would not have been able to pull this off without your assistance.