Starting issue
#1
Starting issue
1994 pickup 4x4 3.0l manual.
I have looked and tried everything I can think of. Issue is when I go to turn the key the truck only clicks. Replaced starter relay, starter, and brand new battery. Have 12.3volts at bettery. I bye-passed the relay by jumping the positives on relay and then ran a separate wire from switch leg of the relay to the starter (the small wire on the starter). And turn the key and still just getting clicks. I ran the same switch leg wire straight to the batter and it clicks. I had to put jumper cables from the battery to the starter to get the truck to fire and run. Only thing not replaced is the ignition. I checked fuses and did not find any blown. Any ideas on what it could be? Thanks in advanced.
I have looked and tried everything I can think of. Issue is when I go to turn the key the truck only clicks. Replaced starter relay, starter, and brand new battery. Have 12.3volts at bettery. I bye-passed the relay by jumping the positives on relay and then ran a separate wire from switch leg of the relay to the starter (the small wire on the starter). And turn the key and still just getting clicks. I ran the same switch leg wire straight to the batter and it clicks. I had to put jumper cables from the battery to the starter to get the truck to fire and run. Only thing not replaced is the ignition. I checked fuses and did not find any blown. Any ideas on what it could be? Thanks in advanced.
#3
Honestly I just bought it and the guy I bought it from replaced all of that 2 days before I picked it up. I'm sure he was trying to do something but he had no idea at all what he was doing. So I'm thinking it was an issue before and he couldn't figure it out. I did get it to run and I test drove it and drove it onto a trailer to take it home by jumping the the starter with jumper cables.
#4
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
I would look real careful at the ground connections make sure they are all clean metal to metal connections
Seems almost everyone forgets you need a complete circuit and never check the ground side of the starting circuit
The main ground should be to the block
The positive connection at both the starter and battery is clean and tight
If your Meter has the hold function simple to check the voltage at the starter solenoid when the ignition is in crank
If not you need a helper
Seems almost everyone forgets you need a complete circuit and never check the ground side of the starting circuit
The main ground should be to the block
The positive connection at both the starter and battery is clean and tight
If your Meter has the hold function simple to check the voltage at the starter solenoid when the ignition is in crank
If not you need a helper
#5
I traced the grounds coming off the battery and one goes to the body right by the battery and the other goes down to the motor mount but on the chassis side. I couldn't find one that goes to the block. So I think that may be my issue. I'll change it and ground it to the motor and see if that solves my problem. Thanks
#6
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
As the starter grounds through the Bellhousing via the bolts holding it on .and the contact of the nose with the bell housing a good ground connection to the block is important
While I run a ground to the frame it is just a habit from years of installing trailer light plugs
While I run a ground to the frame it is just a habit from years of installing trailer light plugs
#7
Thanks guys. I figured it out. The main ground wire was grounded to the chassis instead of the block. I moved he wire to a motor mount bolt on the block and it started right up.
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