Topteke

Hey all,

Not a frequent poster but constantly reading. I've been all over the place trying to figure out what's going on here. I haven't found the answer yet, so I thought I'd just ask for some help.

New Power Master 2-terminal alternator is not charging the battery after recent motor swap. Power Master 47294.

Factors:

- Battery is brand new. Alternator is brand new. Belt is tight (more info later)
- Wiring: I have tried the method from this post (terminal 1 red to Toyota white, terminal 2 white to Toyota yellow "sense"). I have also tried another method, terminal 1 red to alternator b+, terminal 2 white to Toyota yellow "sense," as recommended by a friend, but discouraged as in this post. Neither worked for me.
- Battery Dummy Light: it's off. I know that this won't work without it. However! After pulling the gauge cluster and finding that the battery idiot light is indeed blown, in lieu of replacing it (Napa etc. were closed), I swapped in bulbs that do work from other places (brake light, CEL, rear antilock indicator) but none cause the battery indicator light to illuminate when the ignition is turned to the ON position. (Tell me if this test is even reliable, I wouldn't be surprised to find out it's not.) The emergency brake indicator light does illuminate, so does the CEL. Neither remain illuminated after the vehicle is started.
- This alternator is something I added during a motor swap (brand new 22re from Engine Monsters). I also did the battery/intake swap, dual chain upgrade, and EGR delete during the swap.
- I also did the Big 3 upgrade. Zero gauge ground from battery negative to engine block as well as from back of the head to engine bay body (stock location). Zero gauge power from battery to alternator, 2 gauge power from battery to starter as well as a separate 2 gauge to fuse and relay box in the engine bay. All connections are tight, clean, and free of any corrosion. They’re like new.
- During my several inspections I found one ring terminal just behind the driver headlight cowling in the engine bay that was hanging freely just near a screw hole in the body with a wear mar matching the shape of the ring terminal. Also next to it is a plastic square shaped box with two lines coming from it that run toward the alternator. I compared this to my dd, a 90 22re (yeah I have two ) and it was indeed fastened to the body (a ground). I re-fastened the ring terminal, no change.
- To install the alternator I used the Trail-Gear alternator bracket kit. I painted it and installed it no realizing it was a ground connection for the alternator. After learning this, I removed and ground down the block-side paint with a flappy disk, and reinstalled it. There is zero paint on that side, nor is there any on the block.
- There are no blown fuses, no bad relays, and no bad fusible links in either the engine bay or the cab panel.

Its entirely possible that I've overlooked a harness or something somewhere during the reinstallation of my motor, but haven’t been able to find anything like that in my inspections.

Since the initial installation (of both the alternator and the new motor) I put just under 100 miles on. At that point my alternator belt broke (too tight) and I replaced it, and later found it was loose. I then tightened it using the socket test. Turning the alternator pulley nut does motor to turn, no belt slippage. I don’t know if this indicates the alternator was working fine till I installed the new belt too loosely or not. So while I can’t confirm thet the alternator was working in the first place, I do know that it wasn’t until after I replaced the belt the first time that this problem began.

Why I think the alternator isn’t charging:
- With a voltmeter the battery reads 12.68v, engine off. While running, 12.48v.
- With the harness disconnected from the alternator but with the line between the alternator b+ and battery positive terminal connected, I performed the following test: With the engine running, with a voltmeter from to the battery negative terminal and positive to the alternator b+ terminal, the voltmeter also reads 12.48v.
- While running, if I remove the positive connections from the battery (these are the alternator, starter, and ECU leads), regardless of how terminal 1 and 2 are wired, or even at all, the motor dies.

Is there a reason that the battery light would not illuminate even though it’s got a good bulb?
Is there a junction I should check in case I didn’t connect it during the motor install?
Is it possible that the alternator is defective based on the voltmeter reading from the alternator terminal?

Next steps
- I'm headed to Napa for extra (correct) bulbs.
- give the manufacturer a call and get their opinion.

I think that’s everything.. Again, I appreciate any helpful info. I’ve really tried to read everything google would send my way but I’m totally stumped.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

At any time have you tested that the alternator works ??

Do you have a print for the alternator ??

Just because something is brand new does not guarantee that it works now days more then ever

It might be nice to know just what your working on unless the charging harness is so butchered wire colors would be meaningless

Topteke

I have performed 2 tests (a bunch of times) but the result is always the same:
1) Using a voltmeter and with the motor running, connect the negative lead to the negative battery post. Connect the positive lead to the positive alternator post. Note reading. Then, leave the negative lead in place and connect the positive lead to the battery positive terminal. Note and compare. Result: 12.48v both times.
2) With the motor running, loosen the battery positive ring terminal (which is connected directly to the alternator, starter, and ECU leads). Disconnect the ring terminal from the post. Result: motor dies.

Ill post lat a couple pics of the paperwork and harness, which is in new condition.

Topteke

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Pulling the battery terminal off a running engine is a very good way to cause major carnage even up to taking out the ECU Diodes in the Alternator

That tells you the alternator is not working

Now is it because of the wring issues or because it is defective ??

Without knowing your kinda in limbo .

Best of luck

Topteke

Yeah. Thanks.

Topteke

Spoke to the folks at Powermasters and they are going to replace the alternator, although I'm not sure that's it.

Can an anyone tell me what it means if the battery charge light doesn't come in even though the bulb is good? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Topteke

Replacement alternator arrived and a quick 1-wire test revealed the last alt was the problem. I still don't know why the battery light isn't functioning. Any help would be great.

Topteke

Battery light is fine now. I hope someone who has this problem down the finds this post. A couple notes

• The old b+ line is not used after the Powermaster is installed. It has a ring terminal and can be seen below. In the install post I used it isn't mentioned.
  • 
• This is the little box I mentioned. I still don't know what it's for.
  • 
• Heres a pic of the alternator that you get - not sure why OP's is chrome.
  • 

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

That black box is just a junction box

another place for things to corrode almost always over looked

It can be eliminated by running a new one piece wire the same gauge or bigger

Topteke

Great. You've been very helpful. Thanks for the input.