Door harness quick disconnect
10-17-2007, 06:04 PM
#1
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Door harness quick disconnect
I just got some tube doors and it can be a pain in the ass to remove my doorsill, the kick panel, and then unplug a few plugs back there and snake them through the hole on both sides. has anyone put in some sort of quick disconnect? i've been looking for a multipin round connector that i can mount in that hole and just plug straight into that between the door hinges, but everything i've found is easily over $100. does anyone have any ideas or tips or pics of their setup for removing power doors quickly? thanks!
10-18-2007, 04:35 AM
#2
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This is taken from Pirates FAQ.
Doors - Quick Release Hinges / Removable Doors
Info provided by Wheelie_Pete
To get the old factory pin out without a fuss, cut it in half as it sits in the hinge, then take a cold chisel and start tapping around the edge of the top of the pin. (The hinges should be removed from teh vehicle first.) This should start to pry the pin upwards, then, when you clear the swege marks on the pin you can just pull it out. Repeat for the bottom half.
If you manage to cut your hinges and then force out the stock pin without ing up the brash bushing, then you can use a 5/16 (.3125") dia. x 2" long grip length pin perfectly. The stock door hinge bushings are 8mm (0.315" dia). My passanger's door hinges worked out this way and it works awesome! This works so well I can hardly believe it. The pin is upside down on the top hinge because there isn't enough room to drop it down through the top due to the shape of the door's edge. A sharp eye will notice that the lower bolt head on the door's half of the hinge is ground down. This is so you can clear the pin's shoulder by the bolt. It had to be done to get a straight up shot for the pin. Also when doing it this way you can retain the factory brass bushing which will keep the door tight and have that OEM fell. My driver's door's brass bushings in both hinges cracked when we tried to pull the stock pin so we had to drill them out to 3/8" and use a 3/8" Pin or bolt with the head ground down. This eventually wears on the hinges and Ifinally ended up replacing them with some I could use a 5/16 pin in.
Info provided by NoBrainR
I used spring pins and left the stock bushings in. About 30 seconds to take a door off and 2 minutes to put it back on with no help and perfect alignment each time. Had to grind a little off one bolt head per hinge.
Info provided by TNToy
Here's the route I went. It cost me six dollars. I carry a 12MM ratcheting box wrench ($6 from Sears) in the glove box. Prefect fix on the bolts without rounding them off... a non-ratcheting type tends to twist sideways and round off the bolt slightly with each use. Then you just do what's in the pic. It lets you loosen both bolts 2-3 turns and pull the door right off.
Info provided by JeepRecoveryTeam & Krusty
Just cut the hinge pins and the door simply lifts off !!!!-------- no bolts ,no pins , and no hastle---- 10 seconds off- 15 seconds on ! full doors and a set of .5 doors------on and off 'instantly' !
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=488460
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...86#post2506986
Doors - Quick Release Hinges / Removable Doors
Info provided by Wheelie_Pete
To get the old factory pin out without a fuss, cut it in half as it sits in the hinge, then take a cold chisel and start tapping around the edge of the top of the pin. (The hinges should be removed from teh vehicle first.) This should start to pry the pin upwards, then, when you clear the swege marks on the pin you can just pull it out. Repeat for the bottom half.
If you manage to cut your hinges and then force out the stock pin without ing up the brash bushing, then you can use a 5/16 (.3125") dia. x 2" long grip length pin perfectly. The stock door hinge bushings are 8mm (0.315" dia). My passanger's door hinges worked out this way and it works awesome! This works so well I can hardly believe it. The pin is upside down on the top hinge because there isn't enough room to drop it down through the top due to the shape of the door's edge. A sharp eye will notice that the lower bolt head on the door's half of the hinge is ground down. This is so you can clear the pin's shoulder by the bolt. It had to be done to get a straight up shot for the pin. Also when doing it this way you can retain the factory brass bushing which will keep the door tight and have that OEM fell. My driver's door's brass bushings in both hinges cracked when we tried to pull the stock pin so we had to drill them out to 3/8" and use a 3/8" Pin or bolt with the head ground down. This eventually wears on the hinges and Ifinally ended up replacing them with some I could use a 5/16 pin in.
Info provided by NoBrainR
I used spring pins and left the stock bushings in. About 30 seconds to take a door off and 2 minutes to put it back on with no help and perfect alignment each time. Had to grind a little off one bolt head per hinge.
Info provided by TNToy
Here's the route I went. It cost me six dollars. I carry a 12MM ratcheting box wrench ($6 from Sears) in the glove box. Prefect fix on the bolts without rounding them off... a non-ratcheting type tends to twist sideways and round off the bolt slightly with each use. Then you just do what's in the pic. It lets you loosen both bolts 2-3 turns and pull the door right off.
Info provided by JeepRecoveryTeam & Krusty
Just cut the hinge pins and the door simply lifts off !!!!-------- no bolts ,no pins , and no hastle---- 10 seconds off- 15 seconds on ! full doors and a set of .5 doors------on and off 'instantly' !
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=488460
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...86#post2506986
10-18-2007, 04:43 AM
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Good info WFO but he's looking for an electrical quick disconnest for the power/audio stuff in the full doors...
You might try electrosonic they are on the web and have good prices for those round "military" connectors which are probable going to be your best bet to do what you have in mind...
Prost aviator
You might try electrosonic they are on the web and have good prices for those round "military" connectors which are probable going to be your best bet to do what you have in mind...
Prost aviator
10-18-2007, 04:45 AM
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Still nothing better than those 9 pin connectors, eh?
I think for the $ i would have just gone with with all the little shileded connectors liked we mentioned. lol. But I can see how 18 of those litt buggers per door could be a pain. lol.
I think for the $ i would have just gone with with all the little shileded connectors liked we mentioned. lol. But I can see how 18 of those litt buggers per door could be a pain. lol.
10-18-2007, 05:04 AM
#5
Damned, 18 per door? I only needed 2 sets of bullet connectors on my '81's tube doors
Seriously though, take a look at Radio shack, you should be able to find something there. If not hit a U Pull It or Pick a part type bone yard with a pair of wire cutters. Digging though a few cars should net you the connectors you need.
Seriously though, take a look at Radio shack, you should be able to find something there. If not hit a U Pull It or Pick a part type bone yard with a pair of wire cutters. Digging though a few cars should net you the connectors you need.
10-18-2007, 09:36 AM
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Actually those "military" connectors can have way more than 9-pins see the following link
http://www.e-sonic.com/acc/products....ame=Connectors
If it does'nt work do a search for "electro sonic" and look under shop by vendor, then amp/tyco, then circular connectors
hope this helped aviator
edit: link works...
http://www.e-sonic.com/acc/products....ame=Connectors
If it does'nt work do a search for "electro sonic" and look under shop by vendor, then amp/tyco, then circular connectors
hope this helped aviator
edit: link works...
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