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Old 11-15-2006, 04:47 AM   #1
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1985 22r Carburetor electric choke

Hello, I dont know if anyone can give me any insight on a carburetor issue, however, I'll explain my situation. I rebuilt the carb on my 1985 Toyota RV. Throughly soaked the carb, replaced all the gaskets etc, re-installed and runs excellent. Problem is...the electric choke dosent want to engage,,I'm getting current to the plug...I'm not real familair with these carbs and I would like it to function the way its supposed to. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks, Dave.
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Old 11-15-2006, 03:45 PM   #2
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If I remember correctly (my 1977 Toyota 20R had one) There is a temp. switch that sends power to it. Maybe the switch reduces the current to engage the choke?
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Old 11-15-2006, 04:06 PM   #3
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OK, thats possible,,,as a matter of fact I notice that a large percentage of time the temp guage on the dash reads running temperature, even when its cold...I tried to determine the location of the sending unit....or perhaps switch....but I wasnt succesful...mainly because I didnt really research it to any real length...maybe there is a correlation..I'll check into it...Thanks, Dave.
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Old 11-16-2006, 09:02 AM   #4
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First of all, did you take the choke off when you rebuilt it? Most of the time it's riveted on, and doesn't need any tweaking. Contrary to what most people say about adjusting it, it's really supposed to only go on one way.

Assuming you didn't take it off, you might want to make sure the pins are seated firmly in the connector.

Lastly, there are three temperature senders (maybe only two) on the truck. The sender for the gauge is under and in front of the thermostat housing and pointing at the passenger fender. All it does is send a signal to the gauge. There will be one or two others, on top of and sort of behind the thermostat housing, usually green. They're the ones that send the signal to the 'computer' that controls that sort of thing.

However, I seem to recall the choke heating wire comes off terminal 'L' on the alternator, so that it only gets enough voltage to heat when the truck is actually running, not just keyed on.
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Old 11-16-2006, 05:27 PM   #5
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This may be of some help:
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d801893d8.jsp
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Old 11-16-2006, 05:32 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by stock87 View Post
...However, I seem to recall the choke heating wire comes off terminal 'L' on the alternator, so that it only gets enough voltage to heat when the truck is actually running, not just keyed on.
You recall correctly.

If you removed the choke when rebuilding the carb it's easy to put it back on incorrectly, and/or miss-aligned. Been there.
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Old 11-22-2006, 04:34 AM   #7
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Appreciate the responses..In regards to the choke removal...I took the butterfly out and slid the assembly out in that procedure...( removing the 2 small fasteners..straight slotted screws)...therefore I didnt actually remove the choke heater from the butterfly rod....guess I'll have to investigate the sensors..................any other insight would be great,,Thanks, Dave
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Old 11-22-2006, 04:34 AM
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