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Starter Replacement On The 3.4 V6 Engine - 3rd Gen 4Runner
Starter Replacement On The 3.4 V6 Engine - 3rd Gen 4Runner By HaveBlue
HaveBlue shows you to remove and replace the starter. This is especially useful if you intend to replace the brushes in the starter instead of entirely replacing it.
Here is the step-by-step procedure for replacing the starter on 3.4L 4Runners. Tacomas should be similar.
Tools you will need:
Liquid Wrench or other solvent/penetrating lubricant
Complete set of metric wrenches and sockets
High Temp RTV sealant (if you have Edelbrock headers)
18”-24” ratchet extensions
ratchet U-joint or swivel
Long pry bar or steal pipe
The Edelbrock headers are a great design for flow characteristics and they look nice. However, they don't allow the easy replacement of the starter without completely removing the passenger collector. There is not enough room and the starter becomes wedged between the frame rail and the collector. If you do not have the Edelbrock headers, your life just got a whole lot easier!
1. Loosen the lug nuts on the passenger front wheel.
2. Jack up the passenger front side of the vehicle and support it with jack stands. Make sure the transmission is in “Park” or 1st gear with the emergency brake on.
3. Remove the wheel from the hub.
4. Using a small, flat screwdriver, pry away the fasteners holding the rubber splash guard in place.
5. Using a 12mm socket or wrench, remove the bolts holding the brake line in place.
6. Remove the intake tube.
7. Remove the transmission fluid dipstick. Using a 12mm socket, remove the bolt holding the transmission fluid dipstick tube, then remove the tube by gently pulling it from the lower tube. It may be necessary to get under the vehicle and “coax” the upper tube out with pliers. Be careful not to bend or crimp the tube.
8. Spray penetrating lubricant on the two bolts holding the starter in place.
9. Using a small, flat screwdriver, pry the protective cover from the terminal on the starter.
10. Use a 12mm socket, swivel, and extension to remove the nut holding the cable to the terminal.
If you have the Edelbrock headers installed, follow these instructions. If you don't have Edelbrock headers installed skip to step 13.
11. Using a 14mm socket and 14mm offset wrench, remove the 6 nuts holding the header in place. The lower nuts are particularly difficult to reach and require some time and patience to remove.
12. Using a 14mm socket, remove the 2 bolts securing the collector to the lower manifold. DO NOT remove the smaller, narrower bolts on the starter itself. These hold the solenoid.
13. Remove the collector from the block. A large screwdriver may be required to pry away the collector. Be careful, though, as you do not want to damage the gasket. If you do, a new one will need to be ordered. Having the collector removed allows for easy access to the starter.
14. Unbolt the starter by removing the two bolts holding it in place. If you have headers installed, this can be done easily through the fender. If you do not have headers installed, you will need to crawl under the vehicle and use a long reach extension and swivel to get to the bolts. This can be a knuckle buster!
15. With the two larger bolts removed, use a flat screwdriver to pry the starter away. Turn the starter away from you and detach the switch wires. If you have stock exhaust manifolds, you will have to turn the starter until there is enough room to fit it between the collector and the frame rail. You may have to make that special face while sticking your tongue out.
16. Once you've pulled the starter out, it is ready to be rebuilt or replaced. Now is a good time to take a break.
Installation is reverse of removal. Don't forget to reattach the switch wires!
The following steps apply only if you have headers and have removed the collector. Otherwise, proceed to step 8
1. If you have headers and have removed the collector, apply High Temp. RTV sealant to the collector flange and to the block side of the gasket. Place the gasket on the studs.
2. Place the long pry bar or pipe between the lower manifold and the transmission oil pan.
3. Lower the collector into place on the studs.
4. The pry bar or pipe is used to move the lower manifold down so that the collector can be seated. Don't apply too much pressure, you don't want to dent the pan.
5. Once the collector is seated, secure it with the 6 nuts. This takes longer than removing it because of the lower nuts being located in such a confined space. Take your time so that no nuts are dropped and need to be replaced.
6. Line up the lower manifold and remove the pry bar.
7. Bolt the collector and the lower manifold together with the 2 bolts.
8. Secure the power cable to the starter terminal and replace the protective cover.
9. Replace the transmission dipstick tube. First apply a thin layer of sealant around the lower part of the upper tube to insure a good seal. Don't forget to bolt it back to the block with the 12mm bolt.
10. Secure the brake line back into its original position with the two 12mm bolts.
11. Reinstall the wheel, lower the truck back to the ground and you should be finished. Start ‘er up!
NOTE: While my collector was off, I decided to wrap it with header wrap. I also decided to wrap the started with Thermo-Tec Starter Shield. With the starter so close to the header, I decided it was better safe than sorry to protect the starter against heat. So far, so good.
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