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Fuel Filter Replacement - 3.0 V6 Engine
01-14-2006, 09:06 PM
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Fuel Filter Replacement - 3.0 V6 Engine
Replacing The 3.0 V6 Fuel Filter On Trucks & 4Runners
By Churnd
Churnd shows you how he replaced his fuel filter for the 3.0 engine on his '94 truck
If you have the 3.0 3VZE engine in your ‘Yota and it has between 60-75k miles on it or more, it's time to start thinking about replacing that fuel filter. I know, I know… I bet you're thinking “Oh no… the fuel filter! That thing's a pain in the @$$!” You're right, it is… but the results are worth it! It's very easy to do as long as you have a little patience. Keep in mind that this is a fuel filter, so when replacing it you will most likely get fuel on yourself. Wear clothes that you don't mind ruining.
Get a fuel filter for the 3.0 from your local Toyota dealership. You could probably get one at a discount auto shop for cheaper, but I always buy Toyota brand filters when doing this kind of work. In my opinion, you can't buy a better filter. I paid $37 for mine. Take it home and follow these steps:
1. You'll need a 14mm box end wrench and a 12mm socket and ratcheting wrench. It also helps if you have a swivel elbow for your extensions on the ratcheting wrench so you can get to the top mounting bolt easier.
2. The fuel filter is located on the inside of the passenger side frame rail right next to the passenger side torsion bar mount. Take a look at the line nuts on both ends and make sure you can get to each of them easily. If not, you may want to remove the transmission crossmember.
3. If you've decided to remove the transmission crossmember, follow these steps:
a. Get a jack and a large, flat piece of wood and stick it up under the transmission.
b. Pump the jack up to where it's supporting the transmission.
c. Unhook the O2 sensor wire loom.
d. Then unbolt the 4 bolts on both sides of the crossmember and the 4 bolts that hold the transmission to the rubber mounts.
These bolts are actually inside the transmission and are bronze looking. Now the crossmember is free from the transmission and can be moved out of the way.
4. The fuel filter should now be easily viewable so use the 14mm wrench and start working on the line nuts. I worked on the one closer to the gas tank first as it was easily accessible and I knew gas would be coming out and wanted to get it free as quickly as possible.
Once it's free, let the gas drain out of the fuel lines, which should be about a gallon.
If you don't want to wait until it's finished draining, you can use a nail and wrap some duct tape around it to use as a plug.
5. Once the fuel has drained or been plugged, undo the other line bolt.
Be patient when working on these line nuts because they take a while to get out… especially when you can only move them a quarter of a turn each time.
6. Now unbolt the 12mm bolts holding the filter to the frame.
Installation is the exact opposite of removal. Don't forget to re-plug the O2 sensor wire loom if you removed it.
I re-tightened my line nuts until I couldn't turn them anymore without using considerable force, and the fact that I didn't let my fuel lines drain helped with knowing how much to tighten to stop the leaking.
7. Double check everything and make sure everything's where it should be.
Crank the engine and check for leaks. If there are none, you're done… otherwise, check the tightness of the line nuts.
When I went for a drive after installing the filter, I immediately noticed that the engine seemed more responsive to how much throttle I gave it, and it also ran smoother. I used to have a slight hesitation when going from a stop, now that hesitations gone. I've yet to see if I'll get better gas mileage from the new filter. So if you have a free weekend, slap a new filter on and enjoy a couple extra horsepower!
Before installing the filter, I tried to bleed the system dry by removing the 15 amp EFI fuse from the engine fuse box. This didn't help as it cut the engine off immediately. I realized I also could have unplugged the pump from the fuel tank and let the lines run dry that way, but I didn't feel like fooling with it.
If somebody replaces theirs and has a way of running the lines dry, please PM me so Ican post the method on this write-up.
Disclaimer:
Replacing the fuel filter has to do with working with the fuel lines, which can be very dangerous if the proper precautions are not taken. Make sure there's nothing flammable in the area, and that you wrench with caution as to prevent sparks.
Safety first!!
By Churnd
Churnd shows you how he replaced his fuel filter for the 3.0 engine on his '94 truck
If you have the 3.0 3VZE engine in your ‘Yota and it has between 60-75k miles on it or more, it's time to start thinking about replacing that fuel filter. I know, I know… I bet you're thinking “Oh no… the fuel filter! That thing's a pain in the @$$!” You're right, it is… but the results are worth it! It's very easy to do as long as you have a little patience. Keep in mind that this is a fuel filter, so when replacing it you will most likely get fuel on yourself. Wear clothes that you don't mind ruining.
Get a fuel filter for the 3.0 from your local Toyota dealership. You could probably get one at a discount auto shop for cheaper, but I always buy Toyota brand filters when doing this kind of work. In my opinion, you can't buy a better filter. I paid $37 for mine. Take it home and follow these steps:
1. You'll need a 14mm box end wrench and a 12mm socket and ratcheting wrench. It also helps if you have a swivel elbow for your extensions on the ratcheting wrench so you can get to the top mounting bolt easier.
2. The fuel filter is located on the inside of the passenger side frame rail right next to the passenger side torsion bar mount. Take a look at the line nuts on both ends and make sure you can get to each of them easily. If not, you may want to remove the transmission crossmember.
3. If you've decided to remove the transmission crossmember, follow these steps:
a. Get a jack and a large, flat piece of wood and stick it up under the transmission.
b. Pump the jack up to where it's supporting the transmission.
c. Unhook the O2 sensor wire loom.
d. Then unbolt the 4 bolts on both sides of the crossmember and the 4 bolts that hold the transmission to the rubber mounts.
These bolts are actually inside the transmission and are bronze looking. Now the crossmember is free from the transmission and can be moved out of the way.
4. The fuel filter should now be easily viewable so use the 14mm wrench and start working on the line nuts. I worked on the one closer to the gas tank first as it was easily accessible and I knew gas would be coming out and wanted to get it free as quickly as possible.
Once it's free, let the gas drain out of the fuel lines, which should be about a gallon.
If you don't want to wait until it's finished draining, you can use a nail and wrap some duct tape around it to use as a plug.
5. Once the fuel has drained or been plugged, undo the other line bolt.
Be patient when working on these line nuts because they take a while to get out… especially when you can only move them a quarter of a turn each time.
6. Now unbolt the 12mm bolts holding the filter to the frame.
Installation is the exact opposite of removal. Don't forget to re-plug the O2 sensor wire loom if you removed it.
I re-tightened my line nuts until I couldn't turn them anymore without using considerable force, and the fact that I didn't let my fuel lines drain helped with knowing how much to tighten to stop the leaking.
7. Double check everything and make sure everything's where it should be.
Crank the engine and check for leaks. If there are none, you're done… otherwise, check the tightness of the line nuts.
When I went for a drive after installing the filter, I immediately noticed that the engine seemed more responsive to how much throttle I gave it, and it also ran smoother. I used to have a slight hesitation when going from a stop, now that hesitations gone. I've yet to see if I'll get better gas mileage from the new filter. So if you have a free weekend, slap a new filter on and enjoy a couple extra horsepower!
Before installing the filter, I tried to bleed the system dry by removing the 15 amp EFI fuse from the engine fuse box. This didn't help as it cut the engine off immediately. I realized I also could have unplugged the pump from the fuel tank and let the lines run dry that way, but I didn't feel like fooling with it.
If somebody replaces theirs and has a way of running the lines dry, please PM me so Ican post the method on this write-up.
Disclaimer:
Replacing the fuel filter has to do with working with the fuel lines, which can be very dangerous if the proper precautions are not taken. Make sure there's nothing flammable in the area, and that you wrench with caution as to prevent sparks.
Safety first!!
Last edited by Bob_98SR5; 01-14-2006 at 09:08 PM.
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