Adjusting Inlet Air Control Valve(IAVC), 22R-E
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Adjusting Inlet Air Control Valve(IAVC), 22R-E
For a 22R-E and as you can see I didn't take mine out. Maybe it's easier to get too with the intake/batt swap I dunno. As long as you can get to the screws, get them cleaned up they'll come out. I still had to dremel out one of the screws, so be warned.
First off, verify your resistance to make sure the coil is good. No reason to proceed further if it's bad.
Green arrow is the bimetal valve(which is probably why this thing new is like $200+....)
Purple arrow is the actually "gate vane" that blocks off of the air and is connected via spring off the bimetal valve.
Yellow arrow is pointing to the back side of the "adjusting screw" that you see on the backside of the housing. The screw is part of that other vane that pivots to allow changes in the hole at static temperature. Obviously mine was mostly closed and wasn't allowing enough flow to "idle up" the motor when cold. The fsm is kinda sketchy on this and I took it as you had to turn the shaft to adjust it. Not true. The hole in the case is elongated so just loosening the nut and pushing the screw towards the motor decreases and away from the motor increases. That's it, easy peezy.
Notes:
1) Taking the access panel out of the passenger side wheel well makes getting to the adjusting nut easy. You'll need a 7mm wrench to back the nut off.
2) You'll know if you've adjusted it the wrong way or TOO much. Increased too much and you'll idle WAY higher than optimal. Decrease too much, which will completely close off the hole, and the motor will start and die. NOW this is dependant on temperature, I assume. Obvioulsy, during the hot days you probably won't even notice. When its cold out, like in the 40's in my case, it will most likely start and immediately die and you'll have to play with the throttle till the motor is warm enough. Because I have a hand throttle this is easy.
3) There is a gasket between the plastic cover and aluminum housing. Mine was in good shape so I left it there and put a small coating of Toyota FIPG (FTGDMFW!) on the plastic housing and using antiseize on the four screws put it all back together.
First off, verify your resistance to make sure the coil is good. No reason to proceed further if it's bad.
Green arrow is the bimetal valve(which is probably why this thing new is like $200+....)
Purple arrow is the actually "gate vane" that blocks off of the air and is connected via spring off the bimetal valve.
Yellow arrow is pointing to the back side of the "adjusting screw" that you see on the backside of the housing. The screw is part of that other vane that pivots to allow changes in the hole at static temperature. Obviously mine was mostly closed and wasn't allowing enough flow to "idle up" the motor when cold. The fsm is kinda sketchy on this and I took it as you had to turn the shaft to adjust it. Not true. The hole in the case is elongated so just loosening the nut and pushing the screw towards the motor decreases and away from the motor increases. That's it, easy peezy.
Notes:
1) Taking the access panel out of the passenger side wheel well makes getting to the adjusting nut easy. You'll need a 7mm wrench to back the nut off.
2) You'll know if you've adjusted it the wrong way or TOO much. Increased too much and you'll idle WAY higher than optimal. Decrease too much, which will completely close off the hole, and the motor will start and die. NOW this is dependant on temperature, I assume. Obvioulsy, during the hot days you probably won't even notice. When its cold out, like in the 40's in my case, it will most likely start and immediately die and you'll have to play with the throttle till the motor is warm enough. Because I have a hand throttle this is easy.
3) There is a gasket between the plastic cover and aluminum housing. Mine was in good shape so I left it there and put a small coating of Toyota FIPG (FTGDMFW!) on the plastic housing and using antiseize on the four screws put it all back together.
Last edited by vital22re; 02-15-2011 at 07:39 PM.
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