Bob_98SR5

SONAR Clear Sidemarkers - 3rd Gen 4Runner
By <96 Runner>

Christian (<96 Runner>) shows you how he installed some clear sidemarker lights on his '96 4Runner.

Tools Required:
Dremel Tool
Carbide cut-off wheels, or fiberglass reinforced cut-off wheels
Fine-grit sanding attachment for Dremel
Masking Tape (large)
Paper or cardboard to make a template
6 ft of 20AWG wire
4 female connectors
Soldering Iron
Solder
Electrical tape
Touch up paint
Safety goggles



1. Decide where you would like the sidemarkers to be. Start with the passenger side (so you can reference the antenna).
· Use some double-sided tape and stick them where you would like to see them before cutting into the body.
· I aligned my sidemarkers with the door handles and the antenna (passenger side).



2. Make a template
· Using your eye, draw a diagram of the back of the sidemarker light onto a piece of paper.
· Draw the diagram much smaller than the actual size. This will allow room for error. You can always make the actual hole bigger as you go.



3. Cut out the template and retrofit for pre-cutting
· You should now have a small template that can be stuck to the body for final placement
· Stick the template on the body and take a few steps back, eye-balling the placement
· Pay the most attention to the “vertical” ends of the template. When you make the vertical cuts into the truck body, they need to be exactly the way you want them, or the lights will be cock-eyed.
· Once the template is stuck to the truck exactly where you want it, use a sharpie pen and outline the cut location. Remember go a little smaller, leaving some room for error.



4. Taping it off
· Remove the template, and make sure your outline is good.
· Using masking tape, tape off all around the future hole location. Taping is important, it prevents scratches, paint flaking, and burns.



5. Cutting
· Using the carbide cutting wheel, begin to cut along the lines of the sharpie.
· If you are inexperienced with a Dremel, try a test cut in the center to see how it works.
· Once finished, try fitting the sidemarker light into the hole.
· Now you will have to make the appropriate adjustments to get the lights to fit. Use the sanding wheel for small adjustments.
· Note: The SONAR sidemarker lights have an adjustment tab that gives you a little bit of leeway to make the fit tighter/looser.



6. Rust proofing
· Once the hole is correct, you will want to coat the bare metal with some paint. It does not matter what type of paint, as the lights will cover this area. This will prevent rust from forming.



7. Wiring
· Note: I like my sidemarkers to be always on (with the corner lights). So, I wired them up to the corner lights, feeding off their available power.
· If you want them to blink, you will have to change your wiring a bit.
· Remove the appropriate corner light, undo the bulb plug-in, cut back the wire sheath, and splice the wires.
· Take 3 feet of 20AWG wire and solder into the exposed area of each wire.
· Cover with electrical tape when finished
· Using an extension of some type (stick with tape, Craftsman retriever, etc), feed the wire(s) into the fender well through the corner light hole.
· Reach around with your other hand and grab the wire through the newly cut sidemarker light hole.
· Tape the dangling wires just outside the sidemarker hole so they don't fall down into the fender well.
· Solder a female connector onto each wire end. Tape or use wire sheath to protect the wires.
· Plug into the sidemarker light and test by turning on the parking lights.
· Replace the corner light
· Install the sidemarker light, and check the fitment.



8. Adjustments
Small adjustments can be made using the metal tab on the lights. You can bend the tab in or out, depending on your need.
Now follow the same instructions for the other side. Take some measurements to get as close as possible.
You can now get an exact template from the hole you just cut for the other side. This will save time, and now you should be really good with a Dremel!