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Old 04-25-2007, 09:50 PM   #1 (permalink)
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whats it take to roll a vehicle back on all 4

my buddy rolled his f250 quad cab 4x4 2 nite and naturally he calls me. I have a 91 toyota 4x4 with a warn 8000 winch. what it take to roll a vehicle back over especially as big as this one? I naturally dont want to burn my winch up but at the same time want to help out my friend. Im not sure of the curb weight of his vehicle but im not lifting it in the air but whats it take to roll it over. How do i tell whats to much for my winch THANKS VERY MUCH GUYS.
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Old 04-25-2007, 09:58 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I'd be willing to bet that that truck weighs 8000 or better. I think the warn 16500 lb winch is reccomended for that size truck.

Is it flopped on it's side or laying on the roof?

I think you could definatley do it if you used a snatch block to double up your cable.
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Old 04-25-2007, 10:03 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Its Just On Its Side Laying Up Agianst A Embankment. If I Use A Snatch Block And Anchor The Back End Of My Truck To A Tree And Use 16000 Lbs Of Pull Power Whats That Gonna Do To My Frame/front Bumper??
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1991 extended cab
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5" trail-gear sas swap
63" chevies in rear
35x12.5 goodyear mtr's
4:88 gears with trutrac front, locked in rear
warn m8000 w/arb front bumper
marlin crawler rear bumper
flowmaster 40 series
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Old 04-25-2007, 10:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
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snatch block it, but be very careful. Be sure you know what your line is rated for. Just because the winch/block will handle double the power, doesn't mean the cable will.
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Old 04-25-2007, 10:09 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Well, if you're ARB is mounted with all the hardware I don't think it should pose a problem as far as hurting it or the frame.... What I would suggest though, is if you do try to pull it. You will have a hard time pulling it sideways because the tires will just be dragging, not rolling, plus it may be hard to find a suitable spot to hook up to. I'd try pulling from the front or rear at an angle so that it can roll and move out away from the embankment.

I think that the ARB should be really solid....I mean, they put alot of engineering hours into it, so you'd think they would make it to where it would be able to handle some serious loads. And if you have a hitch in the rear, I'd use that to anchor to the tree as it will be centered and put less stress on the rear of the frame.
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Old 04-25-2007, 10:10 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weakyota91 View Post
Its Just On Its Side Laying Up Agianst A Embankment. If I Use A Snatch Block And Anchor The Back End Of My Truck To A Tree And Use 16000 Lbs Of Pull Power Whats That Gonna Do To My Frame/front Bumper??
as long as you are securely anchored to the frame, it wont hurt anything. You're not dead lifting the entire weight of the truck, just rolling it over on an axis.

Do NOT use the flismy factory front or rear bumpers. You'll pull those right off the truck.
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Old 04-25-2007, 10:15 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Yea Its A Arb. Well Lol I Have 12 Out Of 16 Bolts The 4 That R Missing Go Into Bottom Of Front Crossmember (where Top Of Skidplate Bolts) So I Think It Will Hold We Will See Im Headed Out There I Will Let U Guys Know Tomorrow What Happens And Take Some Pics If They Show Up.
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1991 extended cab
3.0 v6
5" trail-gear sas swap
63" chevies in rear
35x12.5 goodyear mtr's
4:88 gears with trutrac front, locked in rear
warn m8000 w/arb front bumper
marlin crawler rear bumper
flowmaster 40 series
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Old 04-25-2007, 11:02 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I saw a technique that was a little advanced but simple in concept. Scroll way, way, way down this link to the "Roll-over stiff leg" diagram and instructions. It's almost at the end.

Click me:

The entire article has an amazing amount of info and should more then answer any question you could ever have about line rating, winching, pulling and extraction.

Perhaps this "Stiff Leg" technique will give you the leverage you will need. I have never tried it, but it does seem to make sense and the author obviously has a very thorough understanding of the subject.

Best of luck.

Edit: Make sure you clear the cylinders of oil by removing the spark plugs and firing the motor once you are rubber side down. If you don't, and oil is in there, the engine can hydro lock and cause all sorts of major damage. Be careful and come prepared as oil can shoot a great distance at high velocity. Do you best to keep the mess contained and respect the surrounding area to keep us all wheeling in the future.
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Old 04-25-2007, 11:30 PM   #9 (permalink)
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truck weighs no more than 7000 pounds.
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Old 04-25-2007, 11:42 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elvota View Post
I saw a technique that was a little advanced but simple in concept. Scroll way, way, way down this link to the "Roll-over stiff leg" diagram and instructions. It's almost at the end.

Click me:

The entire article has an amazing amount of info and should more then answer any question you could ever have about line rating, winching, pulling and extraction.

Perhaps this "Stiff Leg" technique will give you the leverage you will need. I have never tried it, but it does seem to make sense and the author obviously has a very thorough understanding of the subject.

Best of luck.

Edit: Make sure you clear the cylinders of oil by removing the spark plugs and firing the motor once you are rubber side down. If you don't, and oil is in there, the engine can hydro lock and cause all sorts of major damage. Be careful and come prepared as oil can shoot a great distance at high velocity. Do you best to keep the mess contained and respect the surrounding area to keep us all wheeling in the future.
X2 on billavista's winching bible.

The short though, if it's on it side you will have no problem flipping it back to all four with your 8k warn. I have the same winch and have flipped back my buddys truck and it took hardy any effort at all. Stand clear, be safe.
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Old 04-26-2007, 05:33 AM   #11 (permalink)
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snatch block it, but be very careful. Be sure you know what your line is rated for. Just because the winch/block will handle double the power, doesn't mean the cable will.
Using a snatch block though, the stress on the cable is almost half, since there are essentially two cables.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Elvota View Post
I saw a technique that was a little advanced but simple in concept. Scroll way, way, way down this link to the "Roll-over stiff leg" diagram and instructions. It's almost at the end.

Click me:

The entire article has an amazing amount of info and should more then answer any question you could ever have about line rating, winching, pulling and extraction.
Wow! Great link! THANKS
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Old 04-26-2007, 09:37 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Well sorry guys i couldnt get any pics. they didnt turn out. everything was to dark. but little yota pulled him back over. streched all but halp of a full wrap of cable out when around a tree using a snatch block and to his truck while anchoring the ass end of myne to a tree and pushed to button took all of 30 seconds and bam his truck was back on all four. I was very surprised it was that easy.
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1991 extended cab
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5" trail-gear sas swap
63" chevies in rear
35x12.5 goodyear mtr's
4:88 gears with trutrac front, locked in rear
warn m8000 w/arb front bumper
marlin crawler rear bumper
flowmaster 40 series
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Old 04-26-2007, 11:29 PM   #13 (permalink)
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should of just left it
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