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Old 02-05-2004, 06:02 PM   #26 (permalink)
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here's my list:

- sqeaky something or rather underneath. might be a bushing that needs a little lube

- rotate tires. i just got the correct sized socket

- lube suspension, propeller shaft, u-joints, etc, etc

- finish satoshi grill mod

- paint and have installed my stubbs sliders

bob
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Old 02-05-2004, 06:02 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by fpkelly
Its your axle seal. It leaks out through the drum and onto your rim. It then gets spun everywhere while you drive due to the centrifigul force of your tire spinning. If it was your brake line you'd notice the fade in your pedal. Plus your brake lines contain brake fluid which hopefully is a light golden color, not grease...
Ah $#!t........

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Old 02-05-2004, 06:09 PM   #28 (permalink)
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my 4runner needs a whole new paint job, i have bondo cracks on the driver, who ever did the body work and paint job did a terrible job, my driver side window wont roll up or down, my rear bumper is loose, my hitch rattle against my bumper, my rear window hardly roles up, i need a new motor for it. i think thats everything, but with all that i will drive my toyota until it dies.
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Old 02-05-2004, 06:14 PM   #29 (permalink)
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See here that's what's "broken" on my truck. I wouldn't go as far to say that they are broken, more or less really really worn down.
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Old 02-05-2004, 06:18 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Here's what's wrong with my 4Runner:

-small dent in the drivers side door
-oil leaking from valve seals
-a/c just broke not sure what is wrong yet

The only thing that's going to get fixed probably is the a/c. The oil leak will take too long fix and I can't afford to have my 4Runner disabled for the amount of time I'd need to fix it. The dent adds character!

-Keith
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Old 02-05-2004, 06:21 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by runnerof4
my 4runner needs a whole new paint job, i have bondo cracks on the driver, who ever did the body work and paint job did a terrible job, my driver side window wont roll up or down, my rear bumper is loose, my hitch rattle against my bumper, my rear window hardly roles up, i need a new motor for it. i think thats everything, but with all that i will drive my toyota until it dies.
Maybe we should see if we can get a group paint fix
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Old 02-05-2004, 06:22 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Well today while showing off parking at a buddy's shop in an extreme angle and pulling the Ebrake it snapped. So thats the latest. My K & N is dirty giving me chittier GM than usual and sluggish acceleration/needs cleaned. My rig is hella dirty and needs detailed but not until it stops snowing/raining. Oh and my TXR tires are not beefy looking enough so I need mud terrains tires of some sort. Oh and im tired of the alloy look and want black rims. Nothing really is wrong with my 4runner as much as the Ebrake but some stuff gets to me. Not like your rust issues though, that just sucks arse Lamm. BONDO!
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Old 02-05-2004, 06:35 PM   #33 (permalink)
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maybe we should
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91 4runner, 4" tuff country lift, with a 2" tuff country body lift, k&n intake, 2.5 inch high flow cat and flowmaster exhaust, 33x12.5 thornbird's and a loud system, future mod's:: lower gears and lockers.
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Old 02-05-2004, 06:47 PM   #34 (permalink)
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One of my leaf springs broke 2 weeks ago on my 92, and my 86 is going to need a timing chain(making noise for a while).Easy fixes
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Old 02-05-2004, 06:50 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by 86toyota
One of my leaf springs broke 2 weeks ago on my 92
How did that happen?

When leaf springs break, do they actually break as if you were to break a pencil?
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Old 02-05-2004, 07:41 PM   #36 (permalink)
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left front tie rod, brakes, headlights, speakers need to be replaced, drums need to be surfaced, windows need to be re-tinted do to peeling and scratches, need to figure out what to do with my peeling paint problem, repaint it or take it down to metal, prime it and then get some 3m Camo Wrap? need to clean my throttle body, maf sensor, need to replace the exhaust, o2 sensor, right front side light doesnt come on unless i tap it, but once i hit a bump its off again, flares are cracked and not wide enough and need to be replaced, need to get some new gaskets i think for my shifter, need to replace the clutch pedal bracket or spacer.....and im sure by the time i get all of that done, not in that order, i'll have another list just as long
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Old 02-05-2004, 07:42 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Nothing mechanically broken just minor annoyances like the CD player skipping over bumps and one front speaker occasionally cutting out.

I have a strange clunk/rattle sound from somewhere under the truck that has yet to be diagnosed. I know it's not the spare making noise and it doesn't happen very often. :cry:
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Old 02-05-2004, 08:11 PM   #38 (permalink)
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  • driver's side lower balljoint (i think its just the boot)
  • passenger side inner CV boot needs to be re-clamped
  • passenger side rear lower control arm and mount are bent
  • and i got a noise when i shift the AT into L ?????????
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Old 02-05-2004, 08:35 PM   #39 (permalink)
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funrunner,

with regards to your clunking noise, does it only happen when you go over speed bumps? only hear it from the rear axle? do you have a rear hitch? if so, theres a piecein the rear hitch that is making that noise. my service manager knew exactly what it was, crawled under it, moved some part and that was that.

bob
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Old 02-05-2004, 08:56 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Quote:
-speed III on the heater doesn't work.
Hey, I'm starting to have this same problem. It's intermittent for now, but might be getting worse. I thought it was sand from my last trip to the Moses Lake sand dunes. My heater was blowing sand all over the place for days.

Anybody else have this problem?

Other problems:

- The annoying "tick"
- Steering fluid leak
- Rattle noise coming from driver's side front suspension. Sounds like something is really loose when I drive down a washboard road, but I can't find the cause
- Cable on gas cap lever is frayed and about ready to snap. How hard are those to replace?
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Old 02-05-2004, 08:57 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bob_98SR5
funrunner,

with regards to your clunking noise, does it only happen when you go over speed bumps? only hear it from the rear axle? do you have a rear hitch? if so, theres a piecein the rear hitch that is making that noise. my service manager knew exactly what it was, crawled under it, moved some part and that was that.

bob
Thanks for the help Bob, every bit helps. I do have a hitch but still can't pinpoint where the sound is originating. I've felt around to see if I can find anything loose but no luck yet. It's not just over speed bumps but over some bumpy, uneven roads.

If I take it to the stealership I know it wouldn't dare do it for them. Next oil change maybe I'll ask them about it, otherwise the search continues........

Thanks for the idea!
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Old 02-05-2004, 09:02 PM   #42 (permalink)
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funrunner,

try this test: go to an empty mall in the evening and go over some speed bumps. vary your speed until you hear the sound. my rear clunking sound only came from the rear axle. try it and if that is the case, put some gloves on and poke around the main supports for your hitch. if i can take a pic tonight, ill post it.

bob

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Old 02-05-2004, 09:10 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Originally posted by Bob_98SR5
funrunner,

try this test: go to an empty mall in the evening and go over some speed bumps. vary your speed, but my rear clunking sound only came from the rear axle. try it and if that is the case, put some gloves on and poke around the main supports for your hitch. if i can take a pic tonight, ill post it.

bob
I'll give it a whirl Bob. I think I'd best be doing that in the daylight, plus our mall isn't that busy.

Thanks again!
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Old 02-05-2004, 10:11 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Lets see:

Power antenna doesn't budge, gears stripped. I dont use FM anyways (XM ONLY)

Stupid plastic handles on the heat controls always pop off.

Misc rattles in the rear (possibly from subs)

Nothing mechanical tho! (shhh!)

And oh yah..its missing a lift, and a locker. Go figure!
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Old 02-05-2004, 10:54 PM   #45 (permalink)
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"Its a 33 year old Landcruiser for crying out loud.
Rust issues below both doors and floor.
Transmission filler tube.
Finish rebuilding the front disk axle and "get er Done!" (remove drum brake axle)
Remove aux tank (rusted out)
Replace fiberglass roof (have parts)
Replace windshield and frame (have parts)
Finish the bucket seat install
Repair rusted out glove box"

Hehe, hello North Bend WA.... Crescent City here. with a 68 TLC. Still running good, but the rust is raising its ugly head more.... not to mention the World Famous drum brake nightmare..... as mine sits for 6 months at a time while Im in Alaska with the Tacoma (my other Toy)...
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Old 02-05-2004, 11:52 PM   #46 (permalink)
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-Running-board end cap came off in car wash (now dealer's saying that the RB looks like it's slightly bent and I should just order a whole new one -- lookin like it'll cost 400!)

-Some moisture got into one of the headlamps and so it shorted it and I'll need a new one.

-One of the rear windows will lower but will not raise (it's up now thank God) so a master switch needs to be ordered and then installed (another 400 bucks).

-Tiny dings here and there that will be easily removed (barely noticeable)

-Tempermental keyless entry fob, dunno what's its deal. It's kind of generic and was installed at the original dealer so I guess I'll have to just install an aftermarket alarm sooner or later.

-The speedometer needle seems to wiggle for the first ten to twenty miles per hour. Maybe I'm just nit-picking here, but it's something I noticed.

-Roof rack and rear air deflectors have faded a bit. Rest of the car looks real good, though.

-Oh, yeah, and one of the rear door handles is starting to have it's chrome "sticker" bubble a little bit. It's not rust, just starting to come loose I guess.
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Old 02-06-2004, 12:02 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Everybody has something wrong with their rig, at least I'm not alone

For my 89 w/190k the only things wrong are that the digital clock isn't working, and my A/C needs to be recharged (will get done for summer)

And if you consider rubbing to be a huge issue as well...
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Old 02-06-2004, 09:35 AM   #48 (permalink)
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After 205,000 miles-
Small crack in the dash over gauges.
Rip in the leather of drivers seat from entering-exiting.
Recliner handle of the drivers seat is off.
These things were like this when I bought it and I consider to be minor. No rust, no bad paint, no dents, no oil leaks etc. Everything mechanically/electrically works.
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Old 02-06-2004, 09:56 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by KING
Ah $#!t........
Per request, now workplace friendly. Thanks, and sorry to hear about all the problems.
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Old 02-06-2004, 10:36 AM   #50 (permalink)
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mauiwowie, $400 to replace a switch? Sounds like you need to find a new dealer. Thats outrageous. Go to a junkyard and get one or take the one you have apart. The switch comes off with the interior panel and can be replaced in less than 5 minutes.
The switch that rolls down my back window got soda in it. I took it apart and cleaned it. Very simple if it is the same style switch.
I think you said you had a 2nd gen the other day. If so the headlight can be fixed by replacing a $10 bulb. The whole unit can be removed and put in a warm (not hot) oven to remove the moisture inside. Remove the bulb and put the whole assembly in a 150 deg oven for 20 minutes. All the moisture will be gone. I have done this many times after driving through deep water.
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4runner, 91, axle, broken, celica, cv, differential, fill, front, plug, rear, rot, toyota, trac, transfercase, water

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