Trustyrusty

I've thought about getting a Weber carb, some say they suck, others say they don't... Problem is most replys and opinions come from web wheelers, so I was hoping to get some feedback from people who actually OWN one of these Weber carburators.. Anyways, I'm thinking about getting the 32/36, but its basically the same as stock, just a bit less cfm, actually like one to be exact... So my next thought was, well I'll just get the Weber 38mm... It says the 38mm opens both barrells at once, so your fuel economy goes down, has anyone had this happen? or did milage stay the same? I'm planning on going with a Cam, Header, and I already have a free flowing exhaust.. I can have the carb shop nearby remove all emissions from my stock Aisian carb and re-jet it a little bit and tune it up for about 250$, Or I can get a Weber for that or a little more.. Anyone got any input? I'm also hoping the Weber won't stall out when the hits the fan and gets bumpy, or I go up steep hills.-Thanks for your input!

pennywize

i've got the 32\36 on my '79. i've got a cam from a local machine shop, i forget the exact specs but its pretty aggressive. i have a thorley tri-y and a magnaflow. it works pretty well, it has stalled on steep hills though, and it was a pain to jet and tune. im not disappointed with it though, there is actually pretty good power when you floor it and get some rpm's, the sound is cool too! it sucks air like mad and you can hear it.
i drive my truck hard, very hard. high revs in low range when offroad and high revs in high range on the street. i push it to almost 50 in 2nd until it can rev no more. it gets about 13-15 mpg depending on how i drive, but its a truck and i know i drive it hard and i dont expect much in the mpg department from it.
i say go for it, just getting rid of all the vacuum lines from under the hood makes it worth it, run the one to the distributor and thats it. i ripped all emissions junk out to make room for the on board air system under the hood.

or you could always ditch the carb and go efi... i was planning on doing it this winter but i think im going to sell the truck and start another project so my efi swap is on hold right now.

Trustyrusty

I may do that, I've put in some small bids on a couple 38mm's on ebay... I get 14mpg with my foot in it, 16 if I drive normal, and I could prolly squeeze 17 out of it if I babied the out of it... Highway, I get like 23-25 on I-70 If I run about 75, And I can get 25-29 If I go about 55-60... My milage is ok, but once I get 31's its going to drop, and If I get a small power gain from a carb, cam, and header, my milage might not suck so much.. Any input?

Island_Yota

I bought a Weber 40DFAV off a friend, Its basically a better version of the 38.. instead of using a problematic power valve it uses a "high speed jet" which is much more reliable, Its a rare carb though, both barrels open at once so less fuel economy, but alot more responsive than a progressive carb(32/36, 34) It would be better suited to something with more mods like a full exhaust, Cam, Intake..Its probably the perfect carb for a 20R Head conversion, but it ran fine on a stock 22R according to my friend. I found a comparison online of the 32/36, 38 and 40 on a 2L BMW motor, the performance difference was amazing between the carbs.

heres the link, its pretty interesting:

http://www.metricmechanic.com/catalog/carburetors.php


But im not looking for a speed machine here, so I decided not to use it, Il probably end up using it on another project, Only mods on my truck are a Header and Exhaust.. plus my motor is a 20R.. I dont think im gonna need something that big.

I ordered a Weber 34 DGEC, supposed to be here today or tommoro. Everyone online says not to get one, but everyone that told me not to get it hasn't ever tried one or even seen one. Ive heard its not really a real weber, rather a Solex, But everything about it looks like a Weber to me.. does it really matter anyway? It should be more responsive than a 32/36 because it has a 34mm primary which will be good with my Header and Exhaust, increase the low end power a bit for sure. Its basically the updated version of the 32/36 meaning its a newer design, Ive heard they are almost ready to go right out of the box tuning wise, and it should be the same CFM as a 32/36(32+36=68, 34+34=68).. Ive also heard from alot of Jeep guys that run them on their 4.0's that they work better on angles than a 32/36 but, we'll have to see about that. The only real reason ive heard not to get it is because its "not a real weber", Which doesnt matter to me, its better than stock, $55 Cheaper than a 32/36 and has all of the advantages I stated above, I dont see a reason why not to run a 34.

drew303

My brother has a Weber 32/36 w/ the electric choke.

You won't see a power gain w/ the 32/36, to me it's a straight power swap. They perform equally. The weber you can tune and swap jets out of it in a few minutes the stock carbs forget it. If you can even get them completely apart (its doable ive rebuilt them) but its a pita. The weber is much much simpler to work on... but on the same tolken since you CAN adjust everything they are much harder to tune and theres about as much information on them as there is water in the desert.

You didnt mention why you were interested in a new carb? Is the stock one junkers? you can purchase a rebuild kit for around $50-$60. Have lots of patience and a bolt penetrator on hand. Egg cartons work EXCELLENT for sorting out carb parts.

Getting rid of the emissions makes the motor simpler but on the same note you won't see a noticeable power increase. I'd rather leave keep the emissions if its not hurting my performance.

surf4runner

i like the weber.
for your plans, id go towards the 38 and jet it down to maximize economy

you should be able to find it used and rebuild it yourself for under $100

btw it matters if its a solex vs weber! parts(jets) do not inner-change.
there is a chinese version out there that SUCKS!


this place will answers most of your questions better than me...
http://www.racetep.com/weber.html

Island_Yota

I wasted $45 on a rebuild kit for my stock carb, replaced all the old with the new that came in the kit, but turns out the kit didn't include the one piece I needed, The Power valve assembly.. So I still cant get it to work properly, its just worn out.


What I meant by "Doesn't matter to me if its a Weber or a Solex" Is that either way Ive heard they work great. It says Weber on it in the picture, but il have to see when it gets here just exactly what it is, Its a complete 20R conversion kit so I shouldn't need to rejet it, I think I can see jets in the picture that come with it too anyway.

Trustyrusty

Well thanks for the info guys!, I'd like to buy a kit brand new for 280$ with electric choke, and everything, but where could I get one for under a 100$? My stock carb is OK, it floods alot in the summer, its a bitch in the winter, and I have to deal with the all known wahWAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH! when I step on the throttle! It isn't that big of a deal, but I've rebuilt some stuff on the carb, and for a stocker, it mediocre, but I think its garbage.

Island_Yota

Under $100? Good luck, Try Craigslist? Doubt you'll find one. I thought $240 was pretty cheap for a carb, then again I could have had a running(but leaky) 22RE for $300, Dont feel like swapping out my motor and doing a bunch of work to another one just yet though.

Trustyrusty

Dang, Well I'm out of work right now, so when I get a job again, I'm gonna buy the 38mm... I got fired for having mono and not being at work three days in a row even though I called in and had a doctors note...

TrikeKid

Hunt around on craigslist, I've seen DGEV's (32/36) like mine for $75 bucks with no adapter

Trustyrusty

Then I spend 75$ on an adapter...

TrikeKid

I'm sure you can find an adapter on the cheap too.

Trustyrusty

I think I'm probably just gonna go with a Holley 350 setup, since Weber's are so damn expensive and hard to find parts for...

Island_Yota

Lol, after all the knocking I did on the 32/36 guess what showed up instead of the 34?

A 32/36! I dont have any problem with that though!

And if anyones wondering it has "Made in Spain" stamped right on it where as my 40 has "Bolognia Italy" stamped on it. I cant wait to drive my truck without it flooding for once!

81redbluffyota

All the people I talk to, swear by weber. Ive heard good and bad things. I personally dont have one, as I believe toyota knew what they were doing. But if I was going to get one, It would be the 38. I remember reading on a site that it gave you a 4-5 second increase in your 0-40mph time. I have only heard people talk crap about the 32/36, and thats rarely. But why get an aftermarket carb, that basically has the same cfm. As long as gas isnt a concern, and it is a 4 cylinder, then I say go 38.

87toy.

So ive been looking for a weber to replace my stock carb on my 87 22r, i came across a almost new 32/36 with electric choke for 150, i also found some old 36 dgfv or some strange one, hear is a link

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifie....php?id=571516

I think the top one would fit but who knows, i asked him what they are, see if i get lucky

WSUWESTON

My stock carb would not run worth a darn, so I rebuilt it. Then it still ran bad, too many vacuum lines. Then I put on the 32/36 and it purrs now. I did have a little problem with plugged up intake tube in my tank, not related to the carb though. I love my weber for now.

84YotaBuck

I bought the 32/36 because my stock carb. was a pita to start in the winter. Took a little while to get it tuned in, I have a EB cam, and opened up catback exhaust. Be sure to get a fuel pressure regulator, that way you won't have any problems with stalling out while on inclines. I'm happy with the way it performs, and much easier to work on than the stock carb.

WSUWESTON

Are you running a stock fuel pump? I am running a 2-3.5 psi elect. fuel pump. Do I still need a regulator?