shadowbirdie

coloradolady, I just joined as I found a 1991 Toy 4X4, I want to contribute, but only on things I know something about, I don't know what vehicle you're talking about (year and model) but on your subject (specifically your ignitor module) I had an 1986 2 wheel carbureted p/u w/22R several years back, I always bash on thieves, I try not to bash on mechanics, but they are out to make money and ethics can be an issue.
Somebody stole it north of Seattle and left it in a housing project D/T Seattle with the ignition left turned on. A week later driving south down the I-5, it just up and quit and coasted to the side. I read in the manual that leaving it on and not running could fry the ignitor, appears true by experience.

Long and Short, I don't do junkyard ignitors and they are very expensive turns out. $300+!!. So I ohmed out the coil and found it within specs, cleaned it up, added the new ignitor and it fired right up, never a problem afterwards. The "matched set" sounds like a load of BS to me. Also the coil is a clearly analog device, where as the ignitor is a solid state device with an integrated circuit (amplifier) inside. Your story is complicated by going in and doing the timing chain/ belt, so it isn't just a theft problem. that's my $.02 Thanks for asking, I just try to help based on something I've actually experience
Good Luck J

shadowbirdie

The ignitor is a solid state device so it either works or it doesn't, no sometimes except I imagine lots of dirt could make it work intermittently, but not likely.
another $.02

coloradolady

Husband installed ignition igniter w/coil and still won't start. Checked fuel, it's getting fuel. new battery, new fuel filter, new spark plug wires, new timing chain, cover, guides and gasket................why is there no spark? The wire from the igniter goes into the distributor and with a new igniter/coil, that should be ok. No spark!!! Please HELP before I end up with a bald husband after he pulls his hair out!! Thank you in advance.

coloradolady

He has a 1985 Toyota 4WD 2.4L EFI 2366CC pickup. Thank you for your help and for understanding what I'm saying. The original problem was the timing chain had chewed off some teeth on the lower gear. The chain was loose and he installed a new one, guides and gasket. Went to start it and oil squirted out and he shut it off. It ran!! Anyway, looking we found the source of the leak was the timing chain cover had cracked. Got another cover, took off the old one, made sure everything still looked good and installed another gaske, new one, put it all back together. The engine wouldn't crank over. I'm not sure what he did but it involved something he had to use a breaker bar with to loosen something so it could turn. Alls good so far but, he was told to replace the fuel filter, did that. Told to check the battery, did that, bought a new one. He checked the spark plugs and when he put a thing in them to test for spark and the light on the tool he used didn't come on. No spark in the wires, not any of the four wires. Traced them to the distributor and no electricity there. That's when he was told it could be the ignition igniter and you know the story on that. I posted a new post since he installed the igniter and it still won't crank over. He ask for a match to drop in the gas tank!!! LOLOL Thank you for listening. I hope we can get this sorted out. I'm thinking it's something very simple that we are missing. What would cause no spark to the spark plug wires?

shadowbirdie

Breaker bar sounds scarey to get something to move?
The truck originally ran before the repair??
Has to be something in the ignition circuit, has to be something
done during the repair, you got a lot of things going on and going
wrong at the same time, an 85 is simple being complicated
a mechanic that seems to lack basic troubleshooting skills..
Not a bash, a common issue, Toyota are very high quality,
repairs are rare and usually simple. Troubleshooting skills
are critical before touching it, the money can add up very fast.
Batteries, fuel filters, these aren't related to the original issue.
I joined not to go in blind and repair, just to avoid "reinventing the wheel"
all over the place, nothing in my truck that somebody hasn't seen before.
Good Luck J

coloradolady

UPDATE: Is the mass air flow sensor supposed to click when you press down on the gas petal?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

The Air Flow Meter does have an air flow sensing vane inside that moves and that does cause the fuel pump/circuit opening relay (Fc) contact to close:
- http://4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/...tml#AFMtesting
Perhaps you are hearing the CO relay clicking under the dash on the passenger side of the cab.

coloradolady

Yes it ran before he did the timing chain installation.

coloradolady

With the bonnet up it is coming from the black box like thing by the distributor. It's on top of like maybe the ignitor. It's definately not from the passenger side like that is where the computer is, like inside near the floor. Not from there! Thank you so much for your input.

coloradolady

Well, husband is ready to crush the truck. He installed a new rubber thing over the end of the air tube as suggested earlier and he has checked all fuses. Fuses are all good, he has used a meter and everything is on the correct numbers, the engine is getting fuel, he has spark to the plugs, he has tested ignitor, distributor, battery is fully charged, everything is perfect but it won't turn over. HELP!!!!

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

"Won't turn over" as in "starter will not crank the engine over" or as in "starter cranks engine over but it won't start"?

Has the fuel pump test jumper been tried?
- http://4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/...shtml#FuelPump

coloradolady

He says the engine turns over but it won't start.....

pacoperryz

I am having a similar issue but don't see my specific problem addressed here. I have 1993 4Runner with the 3.0L V6 gas engine. I replaced the starter motor last year and the battery is new as well. My issue is when "cold", the starter relay/motor won't engage at all. Full battery power, lights, power windows, etc, but no click from the starter, no nothing when I turn the ignition.I say "cold" because it has happened 4 times now, and each time was early in the morning around 6 AM. Now I live in sunny Brisbane Queensland, so by cold I mean night time lows of maybe 8-10 degrees C. Hardly a cold start. That being said, the same morning, all 4 times, if I wait an hour or so, the engine fires up every time all day long. My suspicion is that it has something to do with the early morning condensation and a contact or something gets wet and shorts out, and as the morning progresses, said condensation evaporates and I get a connection again. Have not parked the vehicle in the garage to test out the theory but will give that a try soon (just need to clear out some junk). Any suggestions on where to look? Battery cables are all secure, and as I said, other than early morning it starts like a champion, so I know my relay etc. are good.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Something to try:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#EasyTest

Idea is to see what voltage you read when its cold and what voltage it reads when its hot. If different, figure out why there's a difference.