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Old 10-14-2009, 06:33 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Truck Won't Start

So I just finished changing my engine bearings and now my truck won't start.
It's not the battery or the starter.
I couldn't get it to crank by hand when I had all the main bearings loose, so I doubt it's my bearing install job.
The transmission was in neutral.
It ran fine when I parked it.
I hear the (new) starter kick in, got it to turn about half way over once, but that was it.
Please help!
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Old 10-15-2009, 06:19 AM   #2 (permalink)
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22R? RE? You did the bottom end only? Engine in truck? Check all grounds, fuel pump, plugs are plugged in, all spark plugs plugged in, and connected correctly to the distributer, timing correct, distributer not off a tooth or two. If all you did was pull the oil pan and work on the bearings from under there...how long was it down for? Sometimes my truck (carbed) will take a long time to start after sitting for a bit. I think the gas is draining back into the tank or something...but if I crank it for a while it will start. More info will help.
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Old 10-15-2009, 07:13 AM   #3 (permalink)
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it's a 22re in a 4runner
It's not ignition, timing, or the fuel pump
the problem is the engine isn't turning over, like it's stuck somehow. I wasn't able to move it at all by hand when i was working on it.
It sat for a few weeks while I was working on it.
The starter turned it half way slowly; something seems tp be proving heavy resistance to the crank or cam
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Old 10-15-2009, 11:25 AM   #4 (permalink)
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OH. So that's weird...it ran fine, then when you had things pulled apart, you couldn't turn it by hand? Well, not knowing exactly what you did and didn't do, it's pretty hard to say. Did you just drop the oil pan and replace the bearings? That's it? I can't think of any reason why it wouldn't turn.
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Old 10-15-2009, 11:57 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Did you take the rod caps off?

Did you drop the crank? That is, take the rod caps off. It sounds like you put one or more rod caps on twisted around. I can't understand why you would do a bottom end without doing the rest of the block. If you had a bad main bearing, you probably have other problems with the engine.

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Old 10-15-2009, 01:29 PM   #6 (permalink)
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The bearings we're fine; someone told me I should change them to get the full benefit from switching to a full sythetic oil. Wasn't really a big deal, except for now. I'll drop the pan here in a few and check the rod caps.
One thing I realize... I had the engine jacked up at the tranny to get the clearance to pull the oil pan... I still had it jacked up when I torqued the main bearing journals back down, I'm thinking it's binding at an angle because of that... which I'll also be checking when I drop the pan here in a few
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Old 10-15-2009, 01:33 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Sure the bearings aren't too tight? Loosen them up a wee bit and I bet you can turn it by hand then.
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Old 10-15-2009, 01:34 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I couldn't turn it by hand when all the bearings were loose before
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Old 10-16-2009, 09:04 AM   #9 (permalink)
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You should be able to turn the motor over with a moderate breaker bar.. Did you plastigauge your bearings?
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Old 10-16-2009, 09:07 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Tried both my 17" breaker bar and I surpassed 150lbs on my torque wrench.
Plastigauage came back within spec
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Old 10-16-2009, 12:13 PM   #11 (permalink)
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so i found the problem... it's Rod #2
plastigauge has it at less than .025 with the new bearings...
I tried a pair of the old bearings and it still stuck
any ideas on what i should do?
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