shadowbirdie

Hope all are doing well been away since last summer, still working on the 1991 4X4 (see prior history and pictures), lots of other projects going simultaneously.. I have pics to help describe the issue, old man not professional mechanic but I try..
Appears my guess is the rear hitch receiver was overloaded at some time in the past, so the last few inches of the frame are bent down, fortunately not too bad from my opinion, I need to restore this.. Seeking opinions on my plan..

I'm trying to avoid the "Bash it with a sledge hammer approach" as first option.

The pictures show the frame ends, I figure to lift the whole vehicle and support it securely by said frame ends (the piece of wood a mockup demonstration).
My plan involves a propane "blow torch" rated at 3200F degrees from Harbor Freight hoping to "soften the frame metal" to the point where the weight of the vehicle and gravity will bring the frame ends close to their original position.. I don't know a whole lot about metallurgy and melting temperatures..
Thanks in advance
Jack

MudHippy

Well that won't work. I can guarantee you that. But it's totally fixable. Not likely with just a hammer though. One of them, an angle grinder, and a decent welder will probably do.

shadowbirdie

Hey Thanks to the first reply, a BIG supporter of HF, I have both tools, if the 90Amp flux welder is considered a "decent" welder. And I'm not ready to "learn to weld" on my Toyota, maybe later this summer after I learn on something else less valuable. I was entertaining just leaving it, and modifying the hole pattern on the CURT receiver mount, but I'd like to repair it if possible. I don't have any standard lifting equipment, just wood blocks, scissor and bottle jacks, worst of all a gravel driveway.

MudHippy

Me too on HF. And yeah, it's decent IMO. You can weld anything on your truck with it no problem. I bought one for parts to fix another jiffy flux core welder I fried. I ended up swapping a couple parts over to it instead and calling it good. Since it was made with mostly better parts than the other one. A couple pieces of advice with 120V welders...ALWAYS use a 20A outlet. 15A don't cut it(and no, you'll fry the welder before you trip the breaker). And if you use an extension cord, it better be a FAT one(large wire gauge). I always make sure it's rated for at least 20A over whatever length too.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

This is going to be more of a project then you think.

Myself a 3200 degree torch is no where Hot enough!

To each there own To me a 120VAC Self shielded wire welder is not decent .

It would be nice to have some tie downs so you could secure the frame down .

then jack the frame

I for sure would not want to be doing this in the stones.

Remember no vertical welds in the frame if your splicing in new pieces .

A fish shape is good some use a Z shape

If your welding this the bed needs to be lifted or removed so you can see to weld and be comfortable.

If this is supporting a Hitch you really want to make sure it is done correct.

I have been doing this since the mid seventies

shadowbirdie

Just going to cut off the bent part just behind the spring bracket perch.
Get a couple straight frame ends from pick a part and make what I guess are called fish plates and bolt on with #8 hardened nuts and bolts, maybe followed up by a little welding fun, maybe not thx J

dromomaniac

So, I had this same problem after a rear end impact. After trying a torch and sledge, which straightened out some of the problem spots (my frame ends looked worse than shadowbirdie's) a local metal fabricator/welder came over. We used a 60" hi-lift to put upward pressure on the frame, a sledge, and a big torch. It worked.

I'll grant that the guy really knows metal, but the basic idea is possible.In fact, this guy had the entire operation done in less than 30 minutes. I was blown away.

edit: wasn't a propane torch however.