Timing Belt & Water Pump Change
#1
Timing Belt & Water Pump Change
I was quoted $550 for the whole thing out the door. This is the lowest price I have found. Most of the dealer charge $650 - $750 here in metro-Detroit Michigan.
Is this too excessive?
I'm thinking about doing it myself. Does it require an impact wrench to take off the crank pulley? Will it have enough clearance to use such tool?
Is this too excessive?
I'm thinking about doing it myself. Does it require an impact wrench to take off the crank pulley? Will it have enough clearance to use such tool?
#2
Registered User
does the crank pulley require an impact? no it can be done without one. you can fit an inpact in there if you pull the radator.
$550 sounds about right. does that includes the idler pulleys? if not expect another $150-$200 in parts when they find out they are "bad" after they take it apart.
most of the cost is labor.
$550 sounds about right. does that includes the idler pulleys? if not expect another $150-$200 in parts when they find out they are "bad" after they take it apart.
most of the cost is labor.
#4
Contributing Member
Originally Posted by IS3004Runner
I was quoted $550 for the whole thing out the door. This is the lowest price I have found. Most of the dealer charge $650 - $750 here in metro-Detroit Michigan.
Is this too excessive?
I'm thinking about doing it myself. Does it require an impact wrench to take off the crank pulley? Will it have enough clearance to use such tool?
Is this too excessive?
I'm thinking about doing it myself. Does it require an impact wrench to take off the crank pulley? Will it have enough clearance to use such tool?
http://www.toy4x4.net/timing_belt/index.htm
The water pump is a piece of cake once you are in that far.
#5
Contributing Member
I was quoted 499- at the dealership. He said they'd had a coupon that expired not too long ago that he'd honor.
I was just curious for what tb/wp's go for these days. Thanks for the linky, the plan is diy late feb unless it looked like I shouldn't, but it doesn't look too difficult (famous last words).
I was just curious for what tb/wp's go for these days. Thanks for the linky, the plan is diy late feb unless it looked like I shouldn't, but it doesn't look too difficult (famous last words).
#6
Contributing Member
I consider myself good with tools, but pretty inexperienced with cars, and did it no problem. The only reason to pull the radiator is to get an impact gun in there. The bolt is torqued to 250 ft-lbs, so if you don't use an impact, you'll definitely need a long breaker bar, maybe with some cheater pipe too!
The parts are super cheap - $30 for the belt! You can save A TON of money doing it yourself. There are several writeups on here.
The parts are super cheap - $30 for the belt! You can save A TON of money doing it yourself. There are several writeups on here.
#7
im In The Middle Of Doing My Timing Belt And Pump On My 92 4runner,and I Tried To Use A Breaker Bar And Cranking The Engine, It Didint Work For Me. ; It My Work For You, Know Im Going To Try The Inner Tube Wrappe Arund The Pulley,and Use A Plubmers Wrench And The Breaker Bar With A Six Point Socket.the Wrench Will Rest On Or Under The Chasy Dependig Where You Have More Spaceand Turning The The Wrench.?? Someone Tried It And It Worked For Him. Good Luck To Both Of Us !!!chiba
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#8
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
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Just did my TB & WP on saturday on my 2002 4Runner. Took approx 3 hours to tear down, and 5 hours to clean parts, re-assemble, and re-fill the cooling system. I built a crank pulley holding tool that worked beautifully. I built it out of scrap metal pieces I had lying around... the only thing I had to buy was a couple of three inch long grade 8 bolts. Total cost... $1.75. The tool is beefy, and will be around for a long time. I highly suggest making one.
And TC, just a small clarification, the torque on the 3.4 crank bolt is 217 ft-lb... not 250 ft-lb.
And TC, just a small clarification, the torque on the 3.4 crank bolt is 217 ft-lb... not 250 ft-lb.
#11
gsgallant is right it is only 181 ft lb. hey by chance is the runner your tryign to get the crank bolt out of a stick or auto? if it is stick put it in reverse and have someone step on the brake then just crank on that bolt. for auto i hear that you can put a big breaker bar on the side of teh engine compartment hold it in place and crank the motor over. i havent tried this myself but know alot of people that have
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