vada9

Problem is with a 1994 Toyota Landcruiser..i have already typed the issue on another forum so i am going to paste it here i have not found a solution yet Mileage is 194000 still going strong until this.. I have a 94 Toyota Land cruiser with the 4.5 liter inline 6. It has a ton of miles but runs good..a solid truck. Well the only problem that has showed up since i have owed it over a year is it start to sputter or miss right around 1900 rpm's. well i figured it looked like the plug wires and such were old so this weekend it needed a oil change so i figured i would tune it up a well..so i changed the oil, fixed a dry routed hole in the intake hose, cleaned the MAF with proper MAF cleaner, changed the plugs(NGK's) of course,wires, dist cap and rotor...Now the issue is as follows...it now misses at idle but does idle..that is new and when driving it misses up until 1900 rpm. After 1900 it cleans up and is super smooth and has actually more power(feels) then before...so its like the same problem as before is still there but the tune up actually made it more evident..but the entire rest of the RPM band is way smoother and powerful? So i need some help with where to go on this..again i have drove it with the slight miss for over 6 months daily and even pulled heavy boats and all..never a big issue.. the plugs gap are correct and i drove it daily for over a year..no it does not smoke of any kind...the head gasket is not blown. The oil and coolant are clean. And it would not run perfect at any RPM above 1900 if that was the case..i need something else that a tuneup would make this problem worse..and no i never messed with the timing. Fab..get in here..please Edit/Delete Message and yes i checked the firing order..it is indeed correct. Do you think and EGR valve that bad could cause this? Kind of and expensive shot in the dark 170 bux...i am going to check the timing says it should be 3 degree's. Edit/Delete Message I tried reseting the ecu with the fuse and with the battery..no effect..except it was hard to restart and when it did i had to give it gas then when it fired it blew out smoke from extra gas..still idled the same and same miss..i tired unplugging the ecu fuse while running it made no difference as well as it running with the MAF or the TPS unplugged. To see if it would go into a "safe" or "base" mode..no difference. Edit/Delete Message Update..i tried the ecu reset by the fuse and battery..nothing. I drove it some more today to try and further diagnose the problem and it seems it actually not a prob below 1900 rpm like i thought..with more driving it seems to be a problem when using less then 1/4 to 1/3 throttle. It's actually stuttering and missing at idle and really at any speed as long as you are like only giving the truck enough throttle to keep it at the desired speed..if you give it throttle from the go once it stops the missing of idle it is clean running but misses as soon as you get to speed and hold..same if you are holding speed and it downshifts at more then 1/4 throttle it clears right up..would that help you diagnose any more? Also i noticed that while it is idle and misfiring i can notice the dash lights flicker just slightly..is that just from the low rpm's caused by the miss you think or could a bad alternator cause this symptom with the missing? The alternator is not that old 1.5 years or less and again the changing of the plugs,wires,cap and the intake tube leak amplified the problem? Thanks for all your help its really putting me for a loop..i am trying to find another MAF to test but its not easy to find one to barrow. Also i found out through part searching that the truck does have a Ignition control module..would that be a possible cause? Any help is greatly appericated..

This ad is not displayed to registered members. Register your free account today and become a member on Yotatech!

vada9

Anyone?

snobdds

I would say start easy. Check all vaccume lines, make sure the entire intake has no leaks in it, check the tps sensor, check all ignition stuff (you said you have replaced some), make sure your egr is not plugged, cat is not plugged, check for codes, etc. etc. Your going to need a ohm meter and a book to check resistance levels.

I know a guy up the street who wants to sell his 1993 Landcruiser, it does have the F/FR locking diffs. The only think that worries me is it has 263,000 miles on it. So I've been reading up on these on IH8mud.com. You should try there...lots more cruiser heads. I am getting real tempted.

Good Luck

vada9

other then this it has been a great truck..it has not thrown any codes. the exhaust flows well so i would not think the cat is plugged. How do i go about checking the egr for clogs..also i unplugged the tps while idleing and the was no change what so ever..if it was plugged in or not.

snobdds

To check the egr, it best to remove it and check for carbon build up. While it's off clean it up and you can elimanate that aspect. All vacume hoses good and how about the intake. No leaks? Have you checked that MAF yet?

I just noticed you said you removed the tps and there was no difference (difference in being it still runs bad), it sounds like a bad tps.

Kiroshu

I'd say vac leak or egr. Check vac hoses for leaks and cranks. Your egr is prolly my guess unplug it and drive it and see what it does. Just take the vac line off of it and drive. Check the air flow meter for resistance specfied by toyota, if its not in spec in ever single check it needs to be replaced.

vada9

ok i will try these checks tomorrow..i just need to get this figured out and back on the road and trails..

mic

injectors might need cleaning

vada9

Thanks anymore info or any info towards cleaning the injectors

vada9

Well worked on the hatefull thing all day..i replaced some cracked and dry roated hoses vacume hoses..check the EGR blew threw..seemed fine. Recheck the firing order..i got in the new fuel filter and replaced it..let me tell you it was a bitch..tucked under the intake manifold..had to do it through a hole big enough for one hand through the wheel well..needless to say it runs even better then before over 1/4 throttle but still the same dam miss at idle and below 1/4 throttle. I would love if there was someone local that could check the sensors with the multimeter for the correct values..i am not to sure on that..TPS, MAF and ICU. Bc they all have to be ordered and are 150 for 2 and 300 for the MAF. I dont just want to piss money at the thing not knowing if it will fix the problem...but i relly need my daily back i have done all the basic routine stuff..
Edit/Delete Message

copperhead_69

I have a '93 FZJ80 here in Okinawa and mine was doing the close to what yours did. As long as I kept it below 1900 RPM, the check engine light didn't come on. When I did push it above 1900 RPM, the check engine light would come on and it would sputter just like you are talking about, but it would be smooth in the higher gears. After driving like this for a month I got it checked out and it was a bad Oxy sensor. I replaced both to be on the safe side and have not had any problem since then.

DavidWilliam

This is a good one - After coming back from a 3000 mile trip through France two weeks ago, my 2006 D4D engine (58,000 miles) has now developed a bad knock on cold start up and lasts until the engine is warm. Took it to local Toyota dealer who has diagnose it as the 4 injectors being faulty. I have a Toyota extended warranty on it but the company Toyota use for their warranties say that as the injector readings are within Toyotas tolerances they won't warrant the claim. So I have the main dealer saying there is a problem and they don't recommend driving it (and it is a very loud noise) and the Toyota warranty company saying its not a problem as its within tolerances. So, if the injectors are within tolerances how do Toyota know its the injectors that are faulty????????

To top it off the main dealer has said that the injector seals have a leak - great ((( This will now also be interesting, as I know leaking seals cause engine failure and so does the main dealer as I have discussed it before. Even with the injectors sorted, are they going to let me drive the car away knowing that because of the seal problem, the engine could blow at anytime?? I have spoken to a friend of mine who was a Technical manager for many years for a lot of motor companies including Merc, Nissan, ferrari etc, and he has said they are on very dangerous ground as if anything did blow and an accident was caused, they could be sued (apparently Merc got sued a lot). He did also say that the probable reason for Toyota GB not recalling for the seals whilst Toyota IRL did, would have been because of costs due to the number of D4Ds in the UK. He did also say try and look at the USA's data to see if they had a recall as that could help any claim.

petrol crusier