YotaTech Forums  

Go Back   YotaTech Forums > Toyota SUV & Truck Tech > General Vehicle Related Topics (Non Year Related)
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Search


General Vehicle Related Topics (Non Year Related) If topic doesn't apply to Toyotas whatsoever, it should be in Off Topic

Welcome to Yotatech!
Welcome to Yotatech,

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!


Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-26-2006, 01:02 PM   #1
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Duluth, MN
Posts: 439
main bearings...to replace? or not

OK, as some of you may know, my 22RTE had a knock when I bought it. I dropped the oil pan, and found the thrust washers, 1 of them (2 halves) was very mangled. as a result, the crank was shifted to the front of the motor probably as much as 1/4".

I pulled the main bearing caps, to find that the bearings, crank, block, and caps all passed the visual inspection with flying colors (no scoring, gouging, etc...just one side of the #3 cap was polished smooth). so today I got a strip of Plastigage to test the main bearing clearances...and find them to be about .003" (give or take .0005...). according to the FSM pdf that I have for the 22RE, the standard clearances are .0010-.0022, and the max is .0031. meaning anything over .0031 and the bearings should be replaced.

What would you do? just thrust washers? or main bearings too...I'm leaning towards just washers myself...

keep in mind, I'm doing this with the engine in the truck, so replacing the top halves of the main bearings would be difficult...
This ad is not displayed to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Yotatech!
Numbchux is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2006, 01:28 AM   #2
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 22
Actually, replacing the top half of the main bearings isn't difficult at all. Find a nail whose head is slightly thinner than the thickness of the bearings, and cut it short enough that it can fit down into the oil passage on the crankshaft, with just the head sticking out. Now rotate the crankshaft with a socket so that the nail head pushes on the end of the main bearing which DOESN'T have the retaining notch, so the retaining notch comes out first. Installation is the reverse of above, rotate the crankshaft the other way so that the nail pushes the retaining notch so that the notch is the last thing in.
I did this with my 89 22R, in my driveway, also replaced rod bearings while it was apart. Piece of cake!
Ron521 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2006, 08:51 AM   #3
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 392
Send a message via AIM to maxpower_hd
Since you are at (or almost at) the maximum wear anyway, I would vote replace them.

I would also suspect that the knock is from a rod bearing rather than a main bearing. When I ripped apart my 1993 22RE, the mains all looked fine. It was the (number 2 I think) rod bearing that was toast. It wasn't worn, it was completely gone! As in not there! The guy I got it from kept driving it after he new it spun a bearing. Then he gave the truck to me when he thought he couldn't drive it any more. I then proceeded to drive it the mile or so to my house with the loudest knock I've ever heard come from a motor.

I ended up pulling and rebuilding it. I used the crank, rods and caps from an older 22R and bought a lower end rebuild kit from engnbldr for around $350. Everything has been kosher since. Knock on wood. It's been about 7500 miles so far.

Good luck.
maxpower_hd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2006, 04:56 AM   #4
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
Threadstarter [OP]
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Duluth, MN
Posts: 439
well, the rod bearings are in great shape. I haven't taken the caps off, but there's zero play in them. I pried and shook, and they're very solid. but without the thrust washers the crank had shifted forward quite a bit. so I'm thinking that was the cause of the horrible sounds it was making.

well, I guess I'll order a set of mains...
Numbchux is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2006, 02:00 AM   #5
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 22
If you haven't removed the rod caps to LOOK at the bearings, then you can't really say whether they are in good shape or not. Simply trying to move the rod and "feel" for play is not sufficient, as the amount of wear required to knock under running conditions, spinning at 2000-4000 rpm, cannot be felt by the human hand when the engine is cold.
If there is the slightest doubt, replace them anyway, while the pan is off. Don't be an example of "there wasn't time to do the job right the first time, but there is plenty of time to do it over".
Ron521 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2006, 01:47 PM   #6
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
Threadstarter [OP]
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Duluth, MN
Posts: 439
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron521 View Post
"there wasn't time to do the job right the first time, but there is plenty of time to do it over".
unfortunately, that's been the story of my life lately...except more frequently money is the deciding factor.

but yes...you're right, I should, and probably will pull the caps off (at least the 2 in the back were the knock was coming from) to ensure that they are ok. but I suspect they are, judging from the condition of the main.

I should also mention, that it was only the #3 bearing that read .003. the other 4 were .002 or smaller (the plastigage I was using only went down to .002).
Numbchux is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2007, 09:53 PM   #7
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
rockdawg84's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 78
I'm curious how this turned out for you. what did you end up doing and if the crank moved 1/4 inch was there concern that the pins in the pistons might have had a problem? Getting ready to replace both rod and main bearings with the engine in my truck in the driveway.
__________________
84 Runner stretched and pounded but still crawlin
98 Runner SR5, 3.4SC'd, 5 speed, kings f/r, ARB Locked F/R on 35's
rockdawg84 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2007, 03:42 PM   #8
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
Threadstarter [OP]
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Duluth, MN
Posts: 439
Quote:
Originally Posted by rockdawg84 View Post
I'm curious how this turned out for you. what did you end up doing and if the crank moved 1/4 inch was there concern that the pins in the pistons might have had a problem? Getting ready to replace both rod and main bearings with the engine in my truck in the driveway.

Hey, I was out of town for Winter break. and then it's been below zero almost every day since....so not much has happened. I tested the other 4 main bearings, and all 4 rod bearings. finding that all 4 mains were right about at .002, so it could go either way. so I opted to replace them (I have them...but haven't replaced them). and that the rod bearings were safely inside the standard clearances. so I'm going to keep those. I've also got the new thrust washers.

I am mildly concerned about the wrist pins. but I just keep telling myself that with the length of the rod, and less than 1/4" of play at the base, that the amount of twisting force would be pretty minimal....and that the engine has very few miles on it since they problem.

unfortunately, my options are pretty limited. I'm not pulling the head unless I absolutely have to....so I'm going to replace the main bearings and thrust washers, reassemble...and see where that leaves me.

Last edited by Numbchux; 02-08-2007 at 03:46 PM.
Numbchux is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2007, 10:25 AM   #9
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
rockdawg84's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 78
thanks for the update. I did both main and rod bearings yesterday. came out great and boy did they need to be done. over 200000 miles on the motor and was down to the brass in the bearings. Now runs smoth and no knocks.
__________________
84 Runner stretched and pounded but still crawlin
98 Runner SR5, 3.4SC'd, 5 speed, kings f/r, ARB Locked F/R on 35's
rockdawg84 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2007, 05:06 PM   #10
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
Threadstarter [OP]
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Duluth, MN
Posts: 439
Quote:
Originally Posted by rockdawg84 View Post
thanks for the update. I did both main and rod bearings yesterday. came out great and boy did they need to be done. over 200000 miles on the motor and was down to the brass in the bearings. Now runs smoth and no knocks.
well, I didn't have the same luck. finally had time to do the work today. started it up, and it sounded just like it did before. like a freaking diesel. I just dont understand how it could show no improvement over running without thrust washers!

I did check the tolerance on a couple of the main bearings just to be sure that it was the bearings that were worn, and not the crank, and it was well within spec. maybe the wrist pins are shot, or maybe the crank is. I don't know....
Numbchux is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-15-2007, 02:19 PM   #11
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
rockdawg84's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 78
I would vote for wrist pins because that is a forged crank from toyota. Sorry to hear about your motor.:pat: :pat: :pat:
__________________
84 Runner stretched and pounded but still crawlin
98 Runner SR5, 3.4SC'd, 5 speed, kings f/r, ARB Locked F/R on 35's
rockdawg84 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-15-2007, 03:35 PM   #12
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Calgary, AB, Can
Posts: 687
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron521 View Post
Actually, replacing the top half of the main bearings isn't difficult at all. Find a nail whose head is slightly thinner than the thickness of the bearings, and cut it short enough that it can fit down into the oil passage on the crankshaft, with just the head sticking out. Now rotate the crankshaft with a socket so that the nail head pushes on the end of the main bearing which DOESN'T have the retaining notch, so the retaining notch comes out first. Installation is the reverse of above, rotate the crankshaft the other way so that the nail pushes the retaining notch so that the notch is the last thing in.
I did this with my 89 22R, in my driveway, also replaced rod bearings while it was apart. Piece of cake!
You would by some fluke chance happen to have a picture of this would you?

I've got a full bearing set sitting here, and it just dawned on me that to replace the mains I'd have to pull the tranny. That's a pain I'd rather avoid if possible(I know, not tough, just time consuming).
__________________
86 Turbo Pickup
EB Street RV head
EB 268 Cam
V6 Brakes + MC
A340F auto ---> W56 5-spd swap

...I want a bigger turbo...
Bill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-15-2007, 04:53 PM   #13
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
rockdawg84's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 78
Bill

don't drop your trans. just like Ron said, do your rod bearings first, then loosen all of your main caps and get them hanging on the bolts. one by one replace the bearings, I didn't event have to rotate the crank I just used a small flathead screwdriver and sliped out the top bearing then sliped the new one back in. put the cap back on with out snugging it up and move to the next one. Once all the bearings are replaced torque the main caps starting from the center and then working out from there. easy as pie. you wont get to do the rear seal but if it is not leaking your golden. if it is leaking you have to pull the trans. Good luck.
__________________
84 Runner stretched and pounded but still crawlin
98 Runner SR5, 3.4SC'd, 5 speed, kings f/r, ARB Locked F/R on 35's
rockdawg84 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-15-2007, 05:08 PM   #14
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Calgary, AB, Can
Posts: 687
Ok good, thanks for the tip!

I'm working on this by myself (all my auto-savy friends have "jobs", and my school friends don't know a torque wrench from a c-clamp), and I wasn't looking forward to pulling the crank, let along pulling the trans alone.
__________________
86 Turbo Pickup
EB Street RV head
EB 268 Cam
V6 Brakes + MC
A340F auto ---> W56 5-spd swap

...I want a bigger turbo...
Bill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-15-2007, 10:34 PM   #15
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
Threadstarter [OP]
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Duluth, MN
Posts: 439
Quote:
Originally Posted by rockdawg84 View Post
Bill

don't drop your trans. just like Ron said, do your rod bearings first, then loosen all of your main caps and get them hanging on the bolts. one by one replace the bearings, I didn't event have to rotate the crank I just used a small flathead screwdriver and sliped out the top bearing then sliped the new one back in. put the cap back on with out snugging it up and move to the next one. Once all the bearings are replaced torque the main caps starting from the center and then working out from there. easy as pie. you wont get to do the rear seal but if it is not leaking your golden. if it is leaking you have to pull the trans. Good luck.
yep, it was actually VERY easy. dropping the diff and oil pan were way harder than actually replacing the bearings. it actually only took me a couple hours, to replace all the mains (already had the caps off), and put the oil pan back on.

I actually pulled all 5 main bearing caps, and laid them in order, in a box, labeling which end was the front of the motor. then replaced the top halves of all 5 bearings, and then bolted the caps up. and like rock dawg said....get them all hand tight before putting final torque on them.

I attached the FSM diagram about the order in which to torque down the mains.
Attached Thumbnails
main bearings...to replace? or not-main-bearing-torque-order.jpg  
Numbchux is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-15-2007, 10:41 PM   #16
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
rockdawg84's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 78
way to go.
__________________
84 Runner stretched and pounded but still crawlin
98 Runner SR5, 3.4SC'd, 5 speed, kings f/r, ARB Locked F/R on 35's
rockdawg84 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2009, 09:56 AM   #17
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: lebanon, tn
Posts: 60
I am considering replacing the rod and main bearings in my 92 22re. The timing cover has the now infamous chain hole in it and water got into the oil. Can anyone tell me how much and where to buy the rod and main bearings? My toyota stealer wants a little over $300 +tax. Thanks

Oh, the truck has 176K, 5 speed. Have to pull the oil pan anyway to fish out the timing guides.
skyratcalls is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2009, 09:56 AM
Yotatech
4WD Truck




Paid Advertisement
Reply

Tags
bearing, bearings, caps, cost, crankshaft, heads, main, motor, order, put, removing, repair, replace, replacing, rplace, subaru, truck, wrong

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Wheel bearings? Mister Willie 86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 21 10-29-2006 11:32 AM
Crank Bearings Firefightertaco 86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 4 10-24-2006 08:49 AM
Engine Main Bearings and Rod Bearings 87TurboYota 95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 3 03-30-2005 11:17 AM
Anybody replace their rear main seal themselves on 2nd Gen? EOD30 95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 6 09-21-2004 05:18 AM
Wheel bearings Mikey 95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 13 05-13-2003 09:02 AM


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 01:08 AM.


2010 InternetBrands, Inc.