ReturnoftheR

I did a search and couldn't find a good description of the problems I am experiencing. So I wanted to see if anybody knew what was going on and could point me in the right direction.

The clutch starts to fade down close to the floor, and when I push it it works but only a little bit when its faded real far, or not at all if it has made it all the way down. If i pull the clutch pedal back up it seems to gain the whole clutch back, but only for a little bit and it fades back down.

It seems like the clutch is fine, and I have been able to drive the truck.

Somebody said slave cylinder..

How much work would it be to replace the slave and master cylinder, and would this fix my problem?

Should I quit driving it right now?

Thanks,

Paul

Victor

I think you could try bleeding it first. The slave is on the bellhousing. Bleed it like you would brakes. If that doesn't fix it then it most likely is the slave. You can change it out yourself with some wrenches and then have someone help you with the bleeding.

eric-the-red

Yeah, try bleeding it first, though there shouldn't be any air in the system unless there is a leak. If that doesn't work I would replace both the master and slave. They're not very expensive or difficult to do.

surf4runner

not much work (w/o specifics), replace both at the same time.

have you changed the fluid recently? try that and bleed it.

driving is a gamble, you wont likely break anything but could get stuck somewhere.

ReturnoftheR

The clutch fluid level was low.. Would this be my problem? If so do I just need to bleed it now?

I noticed the clutch will fade when I use the clutch.. If I down shift it fades right down...

Any ideas?

eric-the-red

If the level was low you could have got some air in the system. I would bleed it.

galbin

I experienced the Clutch fade the other day .... I tried bleeding the Slave cylinder and got some pedal back however not enough .... my truck has almost 300,000 on the chassis so Iam going to replace both the Master and the Slave cylinders .... any hints on which one first ... or any tips I might need 2 know about beforOK ... just replaced the Master and Slave Clutch cylinders in my 94 toyota 4x4 truck .... I bench bled the Master and installed both components .... I bled the system and everything seemed fine for a day .... the next day i tryed the clutch and same thing NO Clutch .... I bled it AGAIN and it worked again for a day then it DID not work .... the only other thing thats NOT nre here is the section of flexible rubber hydrolic tube (bout a foot long) between both hardened steel lines .... pulling my hair out and throwing wrenches .... any clues for me since i see, to be clueless .... should i replace this flexibleOK ... just replaced the Master and Slave Clutch cylinders in my 94 toyota 4x4 truck .... I bench bled the Master and installed both components .... I bled the system and everything seemed fine for a day .... the next day i tryed the clutch and same thing NO Clutch .... I bled it AGAIN and it worked again for a day then it DID not work .... the only other thing thats NOT nre here is the section of flexible rubber hydrolic tube (bout a foot long) between both hardened steel lines .... pulling my hair out and throwing wrenches .... any clues for me since i see, to be clueless .... should i replace this flexible hose as well or what ???? hose as well or what ????e I get started .... ThanksIam having A REAL DIFFICULT time bleeding my NEW clutch Master and Slave cylinders .... I have used the suggested process of slightly cracking the nipple and pummping 10 times followed by opening nipple and allowing to GRAVITY drain until air bubbles go away ..... this was used with the ONE MAN BLEED KIT ..... then I also used the OLD FASHION method of a SECOND man (or woman) to sit in the seat and pump the pedal 4 or 5 times and hold it down followed by me cracking the nipple loose for a second then tighten it up ..... Iam getting sick of this .... I know I`m doing this right ..... there are NO MORE AIR BUBBLES .... there never were many to begin with ..... ALL of these procedures produced the SAME results ..... the clutch would work FINE for a short drive or 2 ..... then it WOULD NOT WORK .... the NEW SLAVE is OEM and the NEW MASTER is NOT but I dont think this would matter .... can someone PLEASE HELP ME OUT ..... DESPERATE

83

Replace them both at the same time for the best results. You can buy both through Marlin Crawler or the dealership or somewhere like that for I think around $100 total. Really not bad, so I would definitely go with OEM parts here. Get a manual. Factory Service Manual (FSM) is best, but a Haynes or Chilton is fine. Try googling for it, too. I don't have links, but I know there are write-ups on it around somewhere.

ehauswirth

i have a 94 also at at times the clutch will release 1/4 in off the froor and im noticing the pedal is easy at times ...if it sits over night the 1/4 in thing happens but works fine after it hit 2nd gear ...also if im sitting at a red light with it in first gear it happens ...any ideas im told the clitch has about 73,000 on it

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

If the pedal goes soft after bleeding you have a bad connection some place allowing air to be pulled into the system. Check if any of the connections are cross threaded or loose.

In this day of poor quality reman parts you could have gotten a bad master or slave cylinder.

Where did you purchase your parts???

ehauswirth

i did not do anything yet i didnt know if the clutch was on its way out or if somthing else ...it does not do it all the time but at least once a day seems like then it is ok ...the longer i hold the clutch down it when it will do it ...it comes off the floor about 1/4 in and it wants to go and of coures your not ready for it so ya think your going to hit somthing

Codex

I have have had many Toy trucks and I have found that the clutch master and slave will wear out around 200k or less. It starts to squeak, pedal gets spongy and sometimes it will return pressure if you depress it for awhile but will lose pressure after it sits. I think the seals wear out and Toyota has kept the same inexpensive design on this part since at least the 80s through my current 2000 Tacoma. 4x4 clearance makes this easier or pull tires onto curb depending on what side slave is on.

Part is an easy fix. Couple bolts, lynch pin and spring. Add fluid. Swap out slave with master cause it will usually fail soon after Master.

I have had roadside one man success on bleeding the system by using a tube with a oneway valve from slave nipple to a bottle of Dot 3 brake fluid and a "club" anti theft device. Swap out parts add fluid. Pump system, clutch pedal,with new fluid in reservoir under hood, then use the club as a brace on pedal, lock it against the seat with pedal depressed then go under and bleed nipple/air into fluid bottle. But don't let reservoir run dry. Repeat till air is removed from system.

I thought id pass on this tip incase you find your self alone along the road with a new part like I once did. It takes some time, jumping in and out of the truck doing the process, but it worked for me!

roger

My mechanic told me the slave cylinder is leaking on my Tacoma ('98, V6, 4x4). Thinking of doing this myself since it appears to be pretty easy. Might as well do the master while I'm at it. My question is, what parts do I need exactly? My parts source in Houston turned up a master cylinder, master cylinder repair kit, slave cylinder, and slave cylinder repair kit:

http://www.trademotion.com/parts/199...AULIC%20SYSTEM

So do I need just the repair kits or the whole thing? And what comes with each?

I'm guessing the cylinder bodies don't usually need to be replaced unless they're scratched up on the inside?

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

I just did mine on my 93 and I went on eBay or amazon (can't remember) and found oem Japanese replacement parts. I figured it made it 200,000 miles I should just put the same thing back in. I will be happy to replace it when I hit 400K.