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Bad Connecting Rod

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Old 11-08-2005, 06:50 AM
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Bad Connecting Rod

So my truck died on my wife the other day and started making a horrible clattering. I just had the the head and everything done and it sounded like it was under the valve cover, which would make it my mechanic’s problem...of course its’ not.

He said he’s pretty sure it’s a bad connecting rod, which usually means a bad crank shaft, bearings, etc. asd well. I authorized him to drop the oil pan and check for sure. Then he’ll give me a few options and estimates. He mentioned that as long as you are pulling the engine, you basically rebuild the entire bottom end. He just rebuilt the top end, so ...

To say the lease, this stinks. I’m already a good $600+ over my budget. But, as he said, it’s otherwise in such great shape, you sort of have to fix it. Plus, without fixing it, it’s worthless.

So the question now becomes what to do? I know there are a few good used 22re’s out there, and reman’ed engines seem to run anywhere from $1k-$2k.

Then there is always a swap to consider. Wish the 2L Diesels were more plentiful. 4.3 GM engine? 350?

Either way, this sucks, and I’m not happy, and I’m doing a lot of second guessing of myself and my choice to buy this truck....but ultimately...it’s 20 years old and stuff breaks, so....


--
Dave Morin
Windsor, Vermont
TLCA Member #13940
'85 4Runner (mostly stock)
Old 11-08-2005, 10:55 PM
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How much do you trust your mechanic? How much do you love your runner? Will your mechanic honor his work? What else is wrong with it?
These old runners are a worthy cause in my personal opinoin.
You take care of them, they will take care of you.
I have spent more than I initally paid for my 85 Runner. But I knew what she was worth to ME. I don't plan on selling her any time soon. (If ever)
You can't think of a car as an 'investment' per say.
(Think of them as a big hole in the driveway you throw money into.)
But think of the $$ you would dump into a new car that is just going to de-value as soon as you drive it off of the lot.
Go for it! You won't be sorry.
Old 11-09-2005, 04:06 AM
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I trust him. I think at this point mybest bet wil be to bit the bullet and rebuild the bottom end. Since the top was just done, I wil wind up with a completely rebuilt engine that will last me a long, long tiiem. The rest of the truck is in great condiditon and the mileage is reletively low (113k) so I think that's the way to go.

That said, there is a good chance the broken rod (assuming that's what it turns out to be) did some other damage in there so I might need to start witha new block.
Old 11-11-2005, 09:31 AM
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get a short block and use the head that was just done. good for another 100k. i think one on ebay w/head went for a $1000, good gauruntee too.
Old 11-11-2005, 05:41 PM
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"bad connecting rod" sounds pretty fishy to me. i've heard very few stories of bent/broken rods on these engines unless it was caused by sucking a large amount of water through the intake.
Old 11-11-2005, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by kyle_22r
"bad connecting rod" sounds pretty fishy to me. i've heard very few stories of bent/broken rods on these engines unless it was caused by sucking a large amount of water through the intake.
what i was thinking too.. sounds to me like a bearing or even somthing in the combustion chamber.
Old 11-14-2005, 04:20 AM
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He was just guessing based on the noise at that point. Final analysis after dropping the pan was that it spun a bearing (the intitial stall) then when my wife limped it off the highway to the garage, it thrashed a rod and the crankshaft.

The truck has had a water in the oil problem which was misdiagnosed multipled times LONG before I got it. My mechanic figures that was the cause.

Looking for a good price on a 22re shrotblock at this point as I think I'd rather spend a few hundred extra now and not have to worry about it later. Alternately I have a line on a good used block that I can rebuild instead of taking a chance rebuilding my block.

Any recomendations? I'm going to call ORIENT today but I only see longblocks on their website.
Old 11-17-2005, 07:29 AM
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New Short Block on the way!

Alright, it’s a done deal. I’ve got a new short block coming from
California. Should be here right after Thanksgiving to coincide with my
mechanic appointment. I didn’t buy it through ebay, but these are the guys.
http://tinyurl.com/9jou7

I was quoted about a grand from my mechanic to rebuild my old block so I
figured for brand new it was worth the extra bit. Makes things a LOT quicker
and cheaper at my mechanic. Short block is $650 + $100 core + $150 shipping
BOTH ways.

Obviously it hurts the wallet a bit, but that’s life. I will be keeping the truck a long time so it will all work out in the end. Anyway, thank you everyone for all the excellent advice and tips, it is
always greatly appreciated.
Old 11-17-2005, 08:47 PM
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if that's a truly new short block, that's a steal of a deal. put some good oil in it, and she'll be good for another 300k
Old 11-18-2005, 07:41 AM
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I only have their word, but I see no reason (yet) to doubt them.

http://tinyurl.com/9jou7

This is guaranteed to be brand new.
Old 11-18-2005, 08:56 AM
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look good, but just to be safe go around with a torque wrench and hit all the rods and mains.
Old 11-18-2005, 06:45 PM
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that's good advice, just do it in the correct order. if the caps have done any settling it'll make sure nothing comes loose.
Old 11-20-2005, 03:11 PM
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good advice guys, I'll pass it on to my mechanic (who I'm HOPING would be doing this anyway, but it never hurts to double-check.)
Old 11-21-2005, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Sporin

That said, there is a good chance the broken rod (assuming that's what it turns out to be) did some other damage in there so I might need to start witha new block.

it's amazing how much slop the connecting rods can get at the crank and not break. my 85 4runner has a 1/4 of slop in the number 4 cylinder when i bought it and a friends 79 4x4 had the same amount. he used it as a dump truck after that around his house for a while filling the bed full of dirt with his bobcat and driving it around his yard doing landscaping and it would not dye.
Old 11-28-2005, 04:04 PM
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dude i don't trust any builder that sets the engine down on the ground on the crankshaft ,christ ,they can't even afford a engine stand ? i wouldn't want anything to do with em ,best of luck with yours.
Old 11-28-2005, 06:25 PM
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you obviously don't know how a 22R is designed then. the block skirt covers the entire crankshaft...
Old 11-29-2005, 08:37 AM
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Block is here and accordint o my mechanic, looks sensational. I confirmed he'll be retorquing all the rods and mains and if I can get my free (new) clutch here it will be ready very soon. Looking forward to getting her back... being a1 car family is apain...plus..I miss the old girl.

Kyle, thanks for correcting ironroad's erroneous information before I started panicing.
Old 11-29-2005, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by kyle_22r
you obviously don't know how a 22R is designed then. the block skirt covers the entire crankshaft...
point of the post was i don't want my engine laying on the ground ...long as he's happy thats fine ,me i'll just keep building my own engines ..on a stand.
Old 12-01-2005, 06:09 AM
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Engine is almost in and my mechanic said it looked fantastic, everything perfectly in order. I'm not worried.
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