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Old 05-19-2006, 05:47 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I've got some SERIOUS negative camber on my left-front tire, while the right-front is almost dead center. Does this indicate that there is a problem, or could it have been 'tuned' like this to correct a problem?

Or, on second inspection, it wasn't as severe as I thought.
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Old 05-20-2006, 04:01 AM   #27 (permalink)
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camber? dead center? so the left front tire leans in at the top and the right front is fine?

a decent alignment takes over an hour if the rig is out of spec at all. you MUST get the caster set, then camber, then caster again, then camber again, then toe, then caster, then camber, then toe - at least two full iterations. it's not "easy" with the cams on the front, so most shops just hit the camber and toe - that's a quick and easy job. my local shop that's always done me right tried to tell me the other day that they weren't sure that it had adjustable caster and that i "may have something bent or broken from taking it offroad"... i quickly set them straight by telling them how i wanted them to first adjust my caster with the front and rear cams, then to move both of them at the same time to correct camber, then go thru the two iterations. they didn't say anything else and just went to work with two techs on it and finished it in about an hour and 15 minutes. i also mentioned that i wanted 150ft-# on the cam lock-down bolts.

mine used to bump out of alignment until i discovered that the passenger rear and driver fronts had to be torqued super-tight. now it lasts for several trips, and if it does get out of spec, it's not by much.

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Old 05-21-2006, 11:18 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Hey Bamachem, (or anyone that knows and has the time) any way you could post up a few pics on exactly where these bolts are that need to be extra tightened? I had an alignment done a few weeks back, and I am going on a serious wheeling trip this weekend. Much appreciated!!!
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Old 05-24-2006, 09:15 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bamachem
.... i also mentioned that i wanted 150ft-# on the cam lock-down bolts.

mine used to bump out of alignment until i discovered that the passenger rear and driver fronts had to be torqued super-tight. now it lasts for several trips, and if it does get out of spec, it's not by much.
ah ha! that's gotta be it re :alignment issue after wheeling.: torque spec @ 150 lbs. Hell, check that after I get home!

thanx andy!

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Old 05-24-2006, 10:53 AM   #30 (permalink)
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i don't know what the spec is. the shops put maybe 50 ft-# on them. i put them as tight as i feel safe torquing them to w/ a 18" bar (about ~150 ft-#) and i haven't had any issues w/ them backing off or damage to the threads.
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Old 05-24-2006, 10:54 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Why not check the FSM and find out and get a torque wrench? Slacker.

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Old 05-24-2006, 11:06 AM   #32 (permalink)
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why don't you give me the $ to get an FSM and i will...

or better yet, why don't you call a dealer and ask a service writer (like i did) and see what their answer is... "well, we can't tell you that right now over the phone, but if you'll bring it in, we'll take care of that alignment issue for ya"...
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Old 05-24-2006, 11:10 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bamachem
why don't you give me the $ to get an FSM and i will...
dood...

http://aarc.epnet.com/application/9316/9316.htm

96ftlbs on the cams.
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Old 05-24-2006, 11:22 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Old 05-24-2006, 02:53 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bamachem
or better yet, why don't you call a dealer and ask a service writer (like i did) and see what their answer is... "well, we can't tell you that right now over the phone, but if you'll bring it in, we'll take care of that alignment issue for ya"...
that's classic!

this thread is seriously cool - i've been "off" from wheeling due to front end issues - namely the steering rack. That should be done next week -as well as having my cams shims fixed and get my junk running straight.

aaron
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Old 09-20-2006, 10:15 AM   #36 (permalink)
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I was going to start a new thread but this one seems like a good one to add to. Well I went to the Toyota dealer yesterday to get an alignment because I was beginning to see some feathering on my front tires (indicating to me it was likely out of alignment). So I went in and figured Toyota would do a good job since after all this was a dealer. When I dropped off my truck at the beginning of the day I specifically asked for a printout of the alignment machine and told them I wanted 0 camber and between 0-1 deg of positive toe. I went to pick up my truck and well, well, well.....wouldn't you know it "yeah we just adjusted the toe for you; it was at 7 deg, now you're at 2 deg positive". So I asked to see the printout and I get "sorry you need to ask for a printout when you drop it off". Now I am starting to get pissed! Then he starts to go into all the stuff my vehicle needs and I told him to stop right there, I don't even want to hear about it.....I know exactly what my vehicle needs thank you and I'll tell you what I want you to fix.


To make a long story short I honestly think you could align your own truck better in your own garage as long as it is reasonably level ground. Toe can be done fairly easily at home.

First make sure the tires are pointed striaght and the steering wheel is centered as best you can. To check toe you can just use two 4ft aluminum levels (the composite levels have some give to them......hold the levels against each other to make sure they are true) with some spacer blocks to allow the levels to carry the same angle as the wheel (can be square metal tube or even 2x4 as long as it is dimensionally consistent.....make sure this doesn't sit on a bent or damaged part of the wheel's rim either). The standoff piece is just there to allow you to sit the level parallel to the rim without touching the tire (otherwise the tire sticks out farther than the rim and gets in the way). This method is very similar to the one in the toyota truck alignment link: http://www.automedia.com/DIY/Alignment/ccr20021201ay/1 but you don't need to get any white spraypaint on your tires to do it (I's also not sure the toe might not change very slightly from when the wheel is loaded or unloaded as they do in the writeup!?.....in any case the way I did it, it was loaded). Then secure the setup to each wheel in some way (I used ratchet straps around the wheel itself.....only do it tight enough to secure the levels true with the wheel's rim). It is important to make sure the levels are in fact level horizontally, that the levels midpoint (ie 2ft on a 4 ft level) is exactly on line with the center of the tire horizontally and that they also pass directly through the center of the tire vertically.

Now measure the distance between the levels on each wheel, both behind and in front of the wheels. The average of the two numbers will be your 0 degree toe dimension. If the number in front of the wheels is less than the distance in the back, then you have positive toe.....vice versa, negative toe. To find out the degrees, you just use simple trig (the old SOH, CAH, TOA stuff).

We know Tan (angle) = (toe measurement- zero toe measurement) / (distance to center of the wheel.....24" in our case)

So to get the angle you just solve the formula.....you can also find what the distance should be at the correct toe and this is how you can set your own toe at home.

You can also at least measure degrees of camber although it's alot harder to set at home, you'll know if you need to take it to a shop or not for adjustment. Again use the same standoff piece you used with the levels and either an angle guage or you can use a plumb bob and some trig again to figure it out. I just used a big framing square held against a piece of 2x4 cut to fit against the edge of the rim (I mic'd it with calipers and it was very consistent dimensionally). The truck was pretty near dead nuts on zero camber for mine but if your out more than 2 degrees, you'll see it pretty easily.

Here is another good backyard alignment link:
http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/BackyardAlignment.html

I know there are a few others on 4x4wire as well:
http://yotatech.com/showpost.php?p=994023&postcount=38

......man those darn dealers make me mad.
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Old 05-15-2007, 09:09 AM   #37 (permalink)
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thx again for this write up and everyone elses posts / info. I wish i would have known about yotatech a few years ago, could have made my life easier. Bump for an informative thread. thx guyes.
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Old 08-08-2007, 04:17 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Best alignment thread bump.
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Old 10-10-2007, 04:09 PM   #39 (permalink)
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awesome thread. when i was at the stealership getting my oil changed today they tried to tell me i needed to get my front and rear aligned lol
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Old 01-14-2008, 06:46 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Toytec website recommends setting the camber to zero and the toe .04 degrees. Anyone have an opinion on that? I'm about to install the tundra/OME lift.
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Old 02-22-2008, 12:49 PM   #41 (permalink)
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This was a great thread--i was bashing my head thinking why cant the alignment guys get it right--well Today i took it to them and after putting on new tierod ends and replacing the upper A-arm bushings (lowers are a pain to get past the PS rack)--they still couldnt get it aligned--pulls crazy to the right and thy couldnt get the caster to get within spec. I am going to have to take it back.......

Crap--i am getting so fed up with people not knowing how to do something but saying they do.....BS
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Old 01-12-2009, 08:32 PM   #42 (permalink)
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this might give u an idea of general specs and that not only do u change angles by tightening them that tight but u r over tightening them however i do agree with u about alot of techs half assing jobs i think the problem is no one takes pride in their work ne more ne way a few specs just for some ref and alot of problems come when u change ride height and u run out of adjustment

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Land Cruiser
Front Adjuster Cam Nuts 72 (98)
Tie Rod Lock Nuts 41 (55)
Wheel Lug Nuts 76 (103)
Sienna
Lower Strut Mounting Bolts 155 (210)
Tie Rod Lock Nuts 55 (75)
Wheel Lug Nuts 76 (103)
RAV4
Rear Adjuster Cam Nuts 83 (113)
Lower Strut Mounting Bolts 117 (158)
Tie Rod Lock Nuts 41 (56)
Wheel Lug Nuts 76 (103)
Tacoma
2WD
Tie Rod Lock Nuts 41 (55)
Upper Control Arm Bolts 96 (130)
Wheel Lug Nuts 76 (103)
4WD
Front Suspension Adjuster Cams 96 (130)
Tie Rod Lock Nuts 41 (55)
Wheel Lug Nuts 76 (103)
Tundra
Front Suspension Adjuster Cams 96 (130)
Tie Rod Lock Nuts 41 (55)
Wheel Lug Nuts 76 (103)
4Runner
Front Suspension Adjuster Cams 96 (130)
Tie Rod Lock Nuts 41 (55)
Wheel Lug Nuts 81 (110)

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Old 09-08-2009, 01:17 AM   #43 (permalink)
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for what its worth.. i lifted my IFS 4 inches and i had a problem getting the alignment straight... i had to cut my Tie rod engs like a half in or more off each end... could be a common prob..i didnt read the solution u posted first but .... yeah...
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