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22R/R-E Clattering Noise at Cold Start/ Oil, Oil Filters, Timing Chain Tensioner

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Old 11-03-2015, 07:33 AM
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Great write up on the oil filters. I am not sure that Toyotas filters are as good as they used to be but I use them and last time I was into a motor I had that had several miles on it, I was really happy with how well the motor looked.

I adjust my valves to 7 and 11 as by the time I get the cover off and all the other things the motor is too cool to go with Toyotas 8 and 12. I use a mechanics stethoscope when the motor is running to get an idea of which valves may need more attention then the others. Listening on top of the valve cover kind of gives you and idea.

On the grounds, I take a wire tooth brush and get the paint off of the grounding points, on the body.

I got the following ground wire upgrade off of RAD. I mounted the wire coming off of the battery ground to the headlight harness ground. You need to open up the harness a little bit to get the battery ground to the headlight harness ground. I feel it just helps eliminate on more ground area and give better return to the battery
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Old 11-03-2015, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Terrys87
Great write up on the oil filters. I am not sure that Toyotas filters are as good as they used to be but I use them and last time I was into a motor I had that had several miles on it, I was really happy with how well the motor looked.
Looks like it depends on how far back you go. The (Japan) 90915-20003 (replaced by Thailand YZZD1) and 90915-20004 (replaced by Thailand YZZD3) looked like they were about the best filter out there until they were discontinued.
The new filter material of the YZZD1 and YZZD3 is different and so is the ADBV but it they still look better than a great many of the aftermarket filters.


Toyota has that YZZG1 that looks like the same filter as a Purolator Classic with the addition of a silicone ADBV. Ah, no thanks.



Originally Posted by Terrys87
I use a mechanics stethoscope when the motor is running to get an idea of which valves may need more attention then the others. Listening on top of the valve cover kind of gives you and idea.
I do the same they're only like $5.00 from Harbor Freight so why not.



Originally Posted by Terrys87
On the grounds, I take a wire tooth brush and get the paint off of the grounding points, on the body.
That really is the best way to do it.



Originally Posted by Terrys87
I got the following ground wire upgrade off of RAD. I mounted the wire coming off of the battery ground to the headlight harness ground. You need to open up the harness a little bit to get the battery ground to the headlight harness ground. I feel it just helps eliminate on more ground area and give better return to the battery
I might just have to try that one.


.

Last edited by Odin; 11-04-2015 at 05:55 AM.
Old 08-26-2016, 11:07 PM
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I'm going to try the Baldwin B253 oil filter. From reading it doesn't filter the small particles as good as the B2 but it still does an acceptable job. It has a higher flow rating and also has a standpipe in it that is supposed to help seal the anti-drainback valve.
Old 08-27-2016, 12:24 AM
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Good to see you back !!!!!
Old 08-27-2016, 01:28 AM
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Thank's man



So I found out that the fl-400S Motorcraft filter I liked (until it started leaking) had a max advertised flow of 7-9 GPM.
The nominal filter rating on it is 20.

The Baldwin B2 filter that seemed to make my valvetrain noisier at higher rpm's has a flow rate of 5 GPM at 10PSI.
The nominal filtering on it is 12.

The Baldwin B253 flow rate is 12 GPM at 10 PSI.
That means the Baldwin B253 not only flows more than the FL-400S filter but it also filters particles smaller.
I really want to find out how it does with that standpipe deal to help anti drainback.

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