yotamonsta-

Alright everyone here i go im new to yota tech so go easy on me......i have a 1990 toyota pickup 4x4 with 37 14.50 22re motor which only has about 2000 miles on it.... I have been threw 5 reman starters in the past 6 months.....when i get in my truck to crank it sometimes it will just click and click and click and click and then finally it will turn over and grank.....i have put reman starter new positive and negetive cables and battery connections...can someone help me out here im fairly machanically inclined enough to work on my own vehicle but this one has me stumped....i thought maybe ignition switch but idk....any advice will be greatly appreciated

xxxtreme22r

Maybe the starter relay on the fender? Could also the ignition switch.

yotaman85

does it do it more often when its warmed up already? but never does it when its cold?

yotamonsta-

yea it does do it mostly when it warm up....it will turn over eventually but i have to try it like a million times....and is there any way to test that starter relay..???

yotaman85

it your relay, just replace it.. there cheap..

DoveGray85

How old is your battery? A weak battery can cause your starter to click like you described.

yotamonsta-

battery is a red top optima but when it does kick in it has power?? i will try replaceing the relay and see what happens>>>

yotamonsta-

hey yotaman i cant seem to find the starter relay.....do you have a pic of location thanks!!!!

socal 4runnin

its the silinoid on the starter.....you can always jump the relay to see if its badthe relay is in the fuse box under the hood

85gijunk4x4

i am having a problem simalar to that on my pickup, dont know if its the same problem though. what i do is just try a few times, if it dont work i just open my hood, grab the belt and just move it side to side a few inches then itll fire right up. im guessing my prob is the starter, yours may just be a faulty relay or selenoid. good luck though!!

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

See below:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#EasyTest

yotamonsta-

I have replaced the starter five time in the last six months and all but once they have passed on their tester but i raised hell until they warranty it. But i really dont think it is the starter. I have looked for the relay but im completly dumbfounded when it come to electrical? thanks for the help

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

See the link I posted above, it describes a simple test that will help you to pinpoint the source of the problem. Likely you have low voltage to the solenoid terminal and that is not enough to engage the starter fully.

Kiroshu

Have you looked closely at the ignition switch? When you turn it to start and let go of the key is it "springing" back correctly to the "RUN" Postion? If not then the key could be slightly sticking in the start postion durning engine operation and the starter would still be engaged and it will burn it up quickly.

Clean battery Termianls? Grounds?

yotamonsta-

Kiroshu the key is turning back like it pose to but i cant tell if the starter is disengageing i will clean all my connections and see what that does for me...

4crawler i read the trouble shooting and if i understand right it has to be acting up befor i test these ideas?? so next time it happens i will try testing...

Thanks

plumo57

Awesome advice guys, i think you've solved my problem.

Scenic WonderRunner

If nothing else works, try this.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota-mainte...contact-repair


Starter Contact Replacement. I've had this same problem.



.

percitech

I just rebuilt my 22r, and replaced the starter and flywheel for good measure. I had have the starter bendix click a few times before the rebuild, but always got it to crank. After 6 months, it occurred, this time for good. Day one. After a needless replacement of the battery to no effect, I crawled under and replaced the new starter with the old one. Still no change. I then proceeded to destroy what remained of my decaying steering column housing in order to gain access to the starter switch. This did prove useful in getting amp readings. Still no change. I then traced and cleaned from the ground side of the battery all connections between the ground and frame and engine. Still no change. Day two. I decided to make doubly sure the grounding was good, and ran a cable from the neg post to the starter housing. Still no change. I now proceed to bench test the previous new starter. According to the chiltons manual I should see a amp draw under 20 amps, mine came in just under 10 amps, while turning, if you remove the one positive lead from the main lug, the bendix should remain out and the rotation stops, mine did, fyi, amps jump to over 20 makes leads hot. Very puzzled I call it quits to regroup. Day three, I decide to start and clean the test starter connections. I discovered no lube in the inside, just dust and pitting on the copper connections. I also notice a spot where the housing was making contact with the back side of the flywheel. I inspect the old fly wheel, and it resembles the shape, size , and contour of what I see after removing the old starter. After careful contemplation of the evidence, I decide if the starter is reaching too far into the transmission housing, maybe the bendix is energizing but it isnt getting out far enough for the starter to energize? So, I proceed to apply electric lube and grease to the test starter and seal up the housing, reinstall it using two .20 cent flat washers placed between the transmission and the starter, problem solved. Good luck