Newbie Modification Information - Page 6

4RunningColorado · 10-26-2009, 11:45 AM

Hey TC...

Your RIG is TIGHT MAN...

I am in Boulder...

Where is a good place to get rear lockers and armor and how much would these two things cost...

NEXT question...Do you think 31's are ok??? or should I go up to 33 and would the car run week without re-gearing if I put 33's on??? it is my daily driver and she see's highways offten...

Thanks...

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4RunningColorado · 10-26-2009, 11:59 AM

what does the installation intail?

is this hard to do on an 89 runner?

4Crawler · 10-26-2009, 12:17 PM

Basically pull the old front diff. and install the new one, you can get a rough idea below, skipping the center of the writeup about the air locker installation and set up:
- http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/4Runne...ifs_airlocker/

ocdropzone · 10-26-2009, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4RunningColorado

what does the installation intail?

is this hard to do on an 89 runner?

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4Crawler

Basically pull the old front diff. and install the new one, you can get a rough idea below, skipping the center of the writeup about the air locker installation and set up:
- http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/4Runne...ifs_airlocker/

the write up is a good one.

if you get a lock right or Aussie you can install that one yourself.
I did the rear Aussie install on my '81 following one of Zuk's installs at
http://gearinstalls.com/

you can check out my build thread around page 6 post 144 or so for my locker install write up

basically to pull a rear third:
1. jack up the rear of the truck, place axle on jackstands, block the front wheels (all on a level surface)
2. undo the rear brake lines
3. disconnect the e-brake cables
3a> drain the rear diff
4. undo the 4 14mm nuts on each axle and pull out the axle/brake assembly
-some people say that they can get away with out doing the brake lines and only pulliing the axle out far enough to get the third out and letting the axle rest in the axle tube but I ended up =having to replace the axle seals a month or so later..
5. undo the rear drive shaft (4 bolts)
6. remove the 10 or 12 12mm nuts holding the rear third in...it might take some finangling to get it out andi it ways about 30 pounds or so.

do your diff work or take it somewhere to have it done

reinstall in reverse order just adding 90w or other appropriate gear oil.

tc · 10-26-2009, 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mtnhrdgr2

FYI...
I want 33x9.50s or 33x10.50s but BFG is the only manufacturer that has this. Anyways, this time I am going to go with Goodyears or Bridgestones and they only have 31x10.50s.

There are several models in 33x10.50, and several more if you add 255/85-16 into the mix. Notably, Toyo Opencountry MT is available in 33x10.50-15 and Trxus MT and Maxxis Bighorn in 255/85-16

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4RunningColorado

Hey TC...

Your RIG is TIGHT MAN...

I am in Boulder...

Where is a good place to get rear lockers and armor and how much would these two things cost...

NEXT question...Do you think 31's are ok??? or should I go up to 33 and would the car run week without re-gearing if I put 33's on??? it is my daily driver and she see's highways offten...

Thanks...

Depends on what gearing you have. If you have the 4.56, it's "OK" - not great, not horrible. Higher gears (lower number) and you likely won't be able to use 5th here at altitude.

I would recommend All Phase here in Longmont as the best shop for Toyota work closest to you.

Personally, I think 33's are a significant step up in ground clearance over 31's, and I personally like the "stuffed" wheel well look better.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4RunningColorado

what does the installation intail?

is this hard to do on an 89 runner?

If you can find diffs, it's not too hard to swap a front diff and a rear thirdmember. If you're doing a "full" locker (as opposed to a lunchbox), I would save up another month and pay a pro to do it. If you want lockers, you should do gears while you're at in IMHO

AxleIke · 10-30-2009, 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4RunningColorado

Hey TC...

Your RIG is TIGHT MAN...

I am in Boulder...

Where is a good place to get rear lockers and armor and how much would these two things cost...

NEXT question...Do you think 31's are ok??? or should I go up to 33 and would the car run week without re-gearing if I put 33's on??? it is my daily driver and she see's highways offten...

Thanks...

Where in Boulder are you?

jep71 · 11-01-2009, 02:11 PM

I need some help. I just put a new front end in my 1996 tacoma and the new one is a auto hub lock and I don't know how it engage it. does anyone know how to engage it with out all the electronic or vacume? this would help me out.

jrobertson4runnner · 11-02-2009, 03:10 PM

Thanks to all of y'all experienced guys, the advice was appreciated. I am still kinda new to 'wheelin, but I have done some. I live in Texas, and from what I have experienced, that means a little bit of everything. I don't plan to do a lot of mud, as my truck has 365k+ on it. I realize that this was created as a guide, not something to be copied exactly, but nonetheless I still have some questions.

I want mostly functionality, but at the same time I am 18 and, admittedly, I like to show off a bit. Because of this I plan to do a mild lift, with some slightly larger tires. I do also plan on installing an ARB locker on the rear, and eventually doing a SAS on the front(adding another ARB in the process). The tires I plan on using are 33's, and I am wondering what would be the best gears for them. My rig is a '91 4Runner, SR5 v6, with a 5 speed.

Another question is, does anyone know where a good place to get armor here in Texas is? I am another poor college student, but am willing to save to be able to buy the good stuff if need be.

Other than that, the only other question I have may seem a little dumb, but I am still a bit of a newbie. i have seen several references to the "third member", and am wondering exactly what it is.

Thanks again, y'all have been a big help.

tc · 11-02-2009, 06:58 PM

The thirdmember is a drop out differential housing, like a Ford 9".
http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/

For 33's with a manual transmission, 4.88 would put you close to stock, but ....

Doing a SAS to run 33's is silly IMHO. As is doing a "mild lift" when you have plans to SAS, so I would do 5.29 now and plan on 35's later.

jrobertson4runnner · 11-02-2009, 07:22 PM

Thanks, part of the reason I was thinking about doing a SAS was because I had heard somewhere that putting lockers on the IFS was asking for trouble. Someone told me that it is really easy to snap the CV axles if you have front lockers on the IFS, but I'm not so sure about it. Any thoughts?
thanks for the info on the 3rd member.

tc · 11-02-2009, 08:47 PM

I think it is very likely that the person who told you that does not have a locker on IFS.

jrobertson4runnner · 11-03-2009, 03:33 PM

Thanks man, I may give the SAS some thought. It is way down the line anyway, so it might not happen.

AxleIke · 11-03-2009, 09:46 PM

ARB air lockers give you a significant upgrade in strength in the carrier on early IFS trucks. Later trucks with clamshell diffs have issues due to a weak housing design.

People who say lockers in IFS is a bad idea either don't have one and read a bunch on the net, or have one, and can't drive.

IFS is a different system than most are used to. If you understand the system and drive to the strengths, you can do a whole lot with it.

In my experience, for general wheeling and mild rocks, IFS likes to be driven slow, while avoiding extreme angles on pressure situations.

So, stay off the throttle, and avoid turning full lock and trying to climb/descend something.

Also, IFS likes a smaller tire. 33's are a good compromise for decent clearance and parts stress.

Not sure what you consider showing off, but you can do at least moderately difficult trails with your IFS. You won't be doing any hardcore stuff, unless you like body damage, but you can get up most things.

Mine does pretty well with a front locker and 33's:

And no, nothing broke, and yes it drove through without any assistance from another truck.

jrobertson4runnner · 11-04-2009, 10:06 AM

That's a sweet rig man. Thanks again for the help, I just want to clarify, what years are you talkin when you say "early IFS"? I don't know what year the IFS started, but I'm pretty sure that with a '91 I have one of the earlier IFS 4Runners.

tc · 11-04-2009, 02:54 PM

Early IFS is '86 to '95 - basically, the pre-Tacoma torsion bar setup, not the Tacoma/3rd+ gen 4Runner coilover setup.

jrobertson4runnner · 11-04-2009, 03:16 PM

thanks, I still have a lot to learn.

BLKNBLU · 11-04-2009, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AxleIke

Not sure what you consider showing off, but...

And no, nothing broke, and yes it drove through without any assistance from another truck.

I guess I would have to say that running that trail in 2wd like that qualifies as showing off.

AxleIke · 11-04-2009, 09:40 PM

Well, in the picture you quoted, the first two rigs ran all but the creek there in 2wd.

Course, both are linked front/rear, with 40+ tires, and lots o expensive gear.

Two dudes who know how to drive in the . I just tag along to learn.

Me, I drove in 4wd the whole way, mostly in 4.7:1, but the creek in 10.7:1

BLKNBLU · 11-04-2009, 09:50 PM

Yeah but did they only use their passenger side wheels like you?

AxleIke · 11-05-2009, 06:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BLKNBLU

Yeah but did they only use their passenger side wheels like you?

No. They can drive better than I though

turbowhine · 11-05-2009, 11:50 PM

This is a really helpful thread. When talking about buying a locking differential, I was really hoping someone would illuminate the question of front or rear first. I had this idea a while ago but don't do any serious offroading (in a car) and was curious if it was ridiculous or not:

I'm poor and don't "wheel" my 4runner but want the best possible snow traction and don't want to get stuck sinking into soggy grassy ditches in the country. Could I get away with an Aussie-Locker in the front only? I figured I could keep the drivability for the street but when I do engage the front diff. (ADD), i'd have the added benefit of a locker. Obviously i'd loose a lot of steering but I usually (95%) drive on a road, pavement or gravel forest service roads. I like to get into the mountains during winter to ski.

Thanks

AxleIke · 11-06-2009, 11:08 AM

edited for double post. See below.

AxleIke · 11-06-2009, 11:12 AM

I wouldn't recommend doing that. Lockers have quirky behavior in the snow when in the front end. The rear is pretty predictable and isn't too bad, but in the front, they can drag you around unexpectedly, and thats not a good thing on snowy/icy roads. At least, that was my experience when attempting to drive with my front ARB engaged.

Actually, your best bet for improved on road, snowy traction is a limited slip in the rear, or both.

I had a detroit tru trac for a couple of years, and, while it was abysmal offroad, when it was snowy driving around town, I found the truck was much more stable, and easy to drive in the slick stuff. I literally had to TRY to get it to kick out. Under normal driving, the truck simply would not lose the back end. I found it amazing.

turbowhine · 11-06-2009, 11:36 AM

Hmm, limited slip eh? That makes sense. Thanks for the tip, I'll look into that.

SovisX · 11-06-2009, 12:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AxleIke

After seeing a great many threads on here, I've decided to pitch in a thread that will hopefully help some of you newer guys out when you first start modifying your trucks.

Hopefully it will help you keep from making the same mistakes I did.

First of all, this is a post to try to help guys who want to modify their truck?s off-road performance, not so much for street cool looks. Don't get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with looking good, but looking good doesn't equal trail capability.

So, you've bought a 4x4 and you?d like to get some more off-road performance out of it. Awesome. Probably, you are thinking about a lift, right? Please forget about it.

Here is a saying that has been around the net for quite a while: What is cool on the internet or on the street is seldom what is cool on the trail.

The order of importance for different modifications on your truck is as follows.

1. Drivetrain
2. Armor
3. Tires
4. Suspension

Yes, suspension is the least important part of a truck. Why? Because they all accomplish the same thing, which is moving your tires over the terrain. They will get you about as far down the trail as stock. Granted, an otherwise stock truck that has been solid axle swapped with good flex will go farther than a stock IFS truck, but not a ton.

Sooooo, what I?m getting at here is hardware. Hardware makes your truck go. If you are looking to spend some money on a truck, your first consideration should be lockers. Perhaps you can only afford one for the rear, that is fine, get it. Gears are usually recommended when installing lockers, but it isn?t mandatory. If you decide to gear lower in the future, it will cost you an extra 200 for installation that you won?t have to pay if you have them done first off. But that is personal choice. It really depends on what size tire you want to run.

Gears are the next important step, as lower gearing means slower going on the trail. This gives you better control, better torque, and saves clutches. It also involves less ?slamming? up stuff by having to give the truck a lot of skinny pedal. This involves usually two important parts of the vehicle. Differential gearing involves replacing your ring and pinion gears in the differential itself, and is usually a balance of your on road performance with bigger tires. Larger tires will slow a truck down considerably. Regearing the diffs will allow you to keep a more stock feel while running a larger tire. The second step is regearing and/or doubling the transfer case. This provides a much greater ability to crawl or go slow on the trail. For example, a stock drive train (stock transfer case with a reduction of 2.28:1, manual transmission with a 3.95:1 first gear ration, and stock diff gears of 4.1:1) has a crawl ratio of 37:1. With doubled cases and gearing, trucks can get down to 225:1. It is a big difference. Again, benefits are control and less damage by being able to keep the speed down.

Next is armor. Usually, it is recommended that this be done fairly quickly after lockers and gears are installed, as increasing the difficulty of the trails you can drive up will increase the likelihood of body damage. Sliders, bumpers, and underbelly skid plates are all highly recommended. Get what fits your budget, but remember, with all things, you get what you pay for.

Tires are the next thing to look to. There are many threads about brands, sizes, etc. You can choose what you like best. Really, it?s about traction here. What type of wheeling do you see the most? Mud, sand, rocks? I recommend getting the largest size you can get with none, or minor rubbing. Minor rubbing usually occurs on the pinch welds in the fender, and can be easily pounded flat to gain the necessary clearance to eliminate rubbing, and does not affect the cosmetic look of the truck. Tires are the only real way to get ground clearance under your differentials. Lift will leave the axles in the same place as they were. Tires will get your diffs over rocks. In addition, it is important to get a tire that is going to take some abuse. Again, I refer you to the search function on that, so you can make your own decision on brand and genre of tire, as I?m as biased as the rest when it comes to tire choice.

Lastly, look to the suspension.

Here is the deal. If you have put in gearing, lockers, armor, and good tires on a truck, you will be able to drive most of the trails in your area, especially if you?ve ponied up for two lockers. If you have IFS, a suspension lift will get you bigger tires if you really start working your fenders with a sawzall and hammer, and a body lift will get you tires without the need for fender modification, but you?ll still have the crappy flex, and the other issues associated with IFS. Believe it or not, but IFS, especially the early (86-95) IFS, works best stock. No lift, no nothing. In fact, early IFS usually starts to puke steering parts with any sort of lift that changes the steering angles.

In invite you to look up TC, who is a member here. He has a 2nd gen 4runner, and simply has two ARB lockers, and a bunch of armor. No lift, and he runs a 33x1050 tire on it. Minor pinch weld modification and he runs these tires with little or no rubbing. With this set up, he is able to tackle the most difficult trails Colorado has to offer. Check out some of his videos. Now, TC is an AMAZING driver, but even a novice would be able to tackle most trails with the same set up.

If this has all been a jumble of words to you, here are the take home points.

If all you are looking for is to be able to go out and wheel trails with confidence and get up harder obstacles, DO NOT look to your suspension to help you there. Look to the stuff you can?t see.

If you want to look cool driving around town, and aren?t really concerned about getting any farther up the trail than you did before, you just want to look cool while doing it, then look to a lift and monster tires.

Questions are appreciated, post if you have em. Good luck with your builds.

I have a stock 01 4rnr, 3.4l v6, automatic trans, im looking to boot my potential trail capabilities, im trying to get more clearance and trail tenacity overall. ive been having trouble finding resources for tries to fit a 17" rim. the problem is that ive had is that most mud and all terrain tires are made for 15" and smaller wheels. the front and rean break assembly on my 4rnr will only allow for a 17" rim. I need advice either on adjusting front and rear breaking assemblies to allow the mounting of a smaller wheel, or preferably (probably cheaper) i am looking for advice on MT or AT tires that will fit my current wheels. any advice would be gratly appriciated.

Also, i am interested in discussing with you the how and where to find and install lockers on said 4rnr.

any other suggestions that you would have for me about modifications and parts that would help me would be great.

have a good one .

10-26-2009, 11:59 AM	#127 (permalink)
4RunningColorado Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Boulder, CO Posts: 33	Rear lockers what does the installation intail? is this hard to do on an 89 runner? __________________ 89' American Racing rim with 31X10.5 BFG's AT K&N air filter...

10-26-2009, 12:17 PM	#128 (permalink)
4Crawler Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: SF Bay Area, CA Posts: 7,836	Basically pull the old front diff. and install the new one, you can get a rough idea below, skipping the center of the writeup about the air locker installation and set up: - http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/4Runne...ifs_airlocker/ __________________ 1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs or 35x12.50 MTRs r.c.brown@ieee.org TruckEditor@tlca.org Project: 4Crawler 4Crawler OffRoad Gettin'Off 4WD Club

11-01-2009, 02:11 PM	#132 (permalink)
jep71 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2009 Posts: 1	need help please I need some help. I just put a new front end in my 1996 tacoma and the new one is a auto hub lock and I don't know how it engage it. does anyone know how to engage it with out all the electronic or vacume? this would help me out.

11-02-2009, 06:58 PM	#134 (permalink)
tc Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Longmont, CO Posts: 8,377	The thirdmember is a drop out differential housing, like a Ford 9". http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/ For 33's with a manual transmission, 4.88 would put you close to stock, but .... Doing a SAS to run 33's is silly IMHO. As is doing a "mild lift" when you have plans to SAS, so I would do 5.29 now and plan on 35's later. __________________ Check out www.coTTORA.org to hook up with great Toyota 'wheelin' folks! Current - 93 4Runner: 3VZ 33"x10.50" no lift ARB F/R 96 Impala SS: My own personal cop car Previous - 89 2WD Pickup 22R, Fabtech "Ivan Dan" lift, 31x10.50, IASCA World Finals 4th Place Stop with the mods and get on the trail! Pix at www.4wheelingoh.shutterfly.com/action

11-02-2009, 08:47 PM	#136 (permalink)
tc Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Longmont, CO Posts: 8,377	I think it is very likely that the person who told you that does not have a locker on IFS. __________________ Check out www.coTTORA.org to hook up with great Toyota 'wheelin' folks! Current - 93 4Runner: 3VZ 33"x10.50" no lift ARB F/R 96 Impala SS: My own personal cop car Previous - 89 2WD Pickup 22R, Fabtech "Ivan Dan" lift, 31x10.50, IASCA World Finals 4th Place Stop with the mods and get on the trail! Pix at www.4wheelingoh.shutterfly.com/action

11-02-2009, 03:10 PM	#133 (permalink)
jrobertson4runnner Registered User Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Pflugerville, Texas Posts: 24	Thanks to all of y'all experienced guys, the advice was appreciated. I am still kinda new to 'wheelin, but I have done some. I live in Texas, and from what I have experienced, that means a little bit of everything. I don't plan to do a lot of mud, as my truck has 365k+ on it. I realize that this was created as a guide, not something to be copied exactly, but nonetheless I still have some questions. I want mostly functionality, but at the same time I am 18 and, admittedly, I like to show off a bit. Because of this I plan to do a mild lift, with some slightly larger tires. I do also plan on installing an ARB locker on the rear, and eventually doing a SAS on the front(adding another ARB in the process). The tires I plan on using are 33's, and I am wondering what would be the best gears for them. My rig is a '91 4Runner, SR5 v6, with a 5 speed. Another question is, does anyone know where a good place to get armor here in Texas is? I am another poor college student, but am willing to save to be able to buy the good stuff if need be. Other than that, the only other question I have may seem a little dumb, but I am still a bit of a newbie. i have seen several references to the "third member", and am wondering exactly what it is. Thanks again, y'all have been a big help.

11-02-2009, 07:22 PM	#135 (permalink)
jrobertson4runnner Registered User Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Pflugerville, Texas Posts: 24	Thanks, part of the reason I was thinking about doing a SAS was because I had heard somewhere that putting lockers on the IFS was asking for trouble. Someone told me that it is really easy to snap the CV axles if you have front lockers on the IFS, but I'm not so sure about it. Any thoughts? thanks for the info on the 3rd member.

11-03-2009, 03:33 PM	#137 (permalink)
jrobertson4runnner Registered User Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Pflugerville, Texas Posts: 24	Thanks man, I may give the SAS some thought. It is way down the line anyway, so it might not happen.

11-03-2009, 09:46 PM	#138 (permalink)
AxleIke Contributing Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Boulder, Colorado Posts: 4,890	ARB air lockers give you a significant upgrade in strength in the carrier on early IFS trucks. Later trucks with clamshell diffs have issues due to a weak housing design. People who say lockers in IFS is a bad idea either don't have one and read a bunch on the net, or have one, and can't drive. IFS is a different system than most are used to. If you understand the system and drive to the strengths, you can do a whole lot with it. In my experience, for general wheeling and mild rocks, IFS likes to be driven slow, while avoiding extreme angles on pressure situations. So, stay off the throttle, and avoid turning full lock and trying to climb/descend something. Also, IFS likes a smaller tire. 33's are a good compromise for decent clearance and parts stress. Not sure what you consider showing off, but you can do at least moderately difficult trails with your IFS. You won't be doing any hardcore stuff, unless you like body damage, but you can get up most things. Mine does pretty well with a front locker and 33's: And no, nothing broke, and yes it drove through without any assistance from another truck. __________________ 1987 Mutant 4runner\|Slightly Modified\|Lacking general build direction -Lifts and Tires look cool at the Mall, Lockers and Gears look cool on the trail. -Internet Nice Guy Last edited by AxleIke; 11-03-2009 at 09:50 PM.

11-04-2009, 10:06 AM	#139 (permalink)
jrobertson4runnner Registered User Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Pflugerville, Texas Posts: 24	That's a sweet rig man. Thanks again for the help, I just want to clarify, what years are you talkin when you say "early IFS"? I don't know what year the IFS started, but I'm pretty sure that with a '91 I have one of the earlier IFS 4Runners.

11-04-2009, 02:54 PM	#140 (permalink)
tc Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Longmont, CO Posts: 8,377	Early IFS is '86 to '95 - basically, the pre-Tacoma torsion bar setup, not the Tacoma/3rd+ gen 4Runner coilover setup. __________________ Check out www.coTTORA.org to hook up with great Toyota 'wheelin' folks! Current - 93 4Runner: 3VZ 33"x10.50" no lift ARB F/R 96 Impala SS: My own personal cop car Previous - 89 2WD Pickup 22R, Fabtech "Ivan Dan" lift, 31x10.50, IASCA World Finals 4th Place Stop with the mods and get on the trail! Pix at www.4wheelingoh.shutterfly.com/action

11-04-2009, 03:16 PM	#141 (permalink)
jrobertson4runnner Registered User Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Pflugerville, Texas Posts: 24	thanks, I still have a lot to learn.

11-04-2009, 09:40 PM	#143 (permalink)
AxleIke Contributing Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Boulder, Colorado Posts: 4,890	Well, in the picture you quoted, the first two rigs ran all but the creek there in 2wd. Course, both are linked front/rear, with 40+ tires, and lots o expensive gear. Two dudes who know how to drive in the . I just tag along to learn. Me, I drove in 4wd the whole way, mostly in 4.7:1, but the creek in 10.7:1 __________________ 1987 Mutant 4runner\|Slightly Modified\|Lacking general build direction -Lifts and Tires look cool at the Mall, Lockers and Gears look cool on the trail. -Internet Nice Guy

11-04-2009, 09:50 PM	#144 (permalink)
BLKNBLU Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Gilbert, Arizona Posts: 1,668	Yeah but did they only use their passenger side wheels like you? __________________ 86 4Runner, custom Sonoran Steel rear bumper, 4Crawler 1" body lift, rock sliders from Richard Stubbs, rear Lockright, SAS w/ARB My build thread. http://www.yotatech.com/f66/blknblu-s-sac-155872/

11-05-2009, 11:50 PM	#146 (permalink)
turbowhine Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Bellingham, WA Posts: 11	This is a really helpful thread. When talking about buying a locking differential, I was really hoping someone would illuminate the question of front or rear first. I had this idea a while ago but don't do any serious offroading (in a car) and was curious if it was ridiculous or not: I'm poor and don't "wheel" my 4runner but want the best possible snow traction and don't want to get stuck sinking into soggy grassy ditches in the country. Could I get away with an Aussie-Locker in the front only? I figured I could keep the drivability for the street but when I do engage the front diff. (ADD), i'd have the added benefit of a locker. Obviously i'd loose a lot of steering but I usually (95%) drive on a road, pavement or gravel forest service roads. I like to get into the mountains during winter to ski. Thanks __________________ 1991 4Runner 22RE 5sp 4x4 SR5 202+K Only mod is a MotoGP bumper sticker Last edited by turbowhine; 11-05-2009 at 11:55 PM.

11-06-2009, 11:08 AM	#147 (permalink)
AxleIke Contributing Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Boulder, Colorado Posts: 4,890	edited for double post. See below. __________________ 1987 Mutant 4runner\|Slightly Modified\|Lacking general build direction -Lifts and Tires look cool at the Mall, Lockers and Gears look cool on the trail. -Internet Nice Guy Last edited by AxleIke; 11-06-2009 at 11:13 AM.

11-06-2009, 11:12 AM	#148 (permalink)
AxleIke Contributing Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Boulder, Colorado Posts: 4,890	I wouldn't recommend doing that. Lockers have quirky behavior in the snow when in the front end. The rear is pretty predictable and isn't too bad, but in the front, they can drag you around unexpectedly, and thats not a good thing on snowy/icy roads. At least, that was my experience when attempting to drive with my front ARB engaged. Actually, your best bet for improved on road, snowy traction is a limited slip in the rear, or both. I had a detroit tru trac for a couple of years, and, while it was abysmal offroad, when it was snowy driving around town, I found the truck was much more stable, and easy to drive in the slick stuff. I literally had to TRY to get it to kick out. Under normal driving, the truck simply would not lose the back end. I found it amazing. __________________ 1987 Mutant 4runner\|Slightly Modified\|Lacking general build direction -Lifts and Tires look cool at the Mall, Lockers and Gears look cool on the trail. -Internet Nice Guy

11-06-2009, 11:36 AM	#149 (permalink)
turbowhine Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Bellingham, WA Posts: 11	Hmm, limited slip eh? That makes sense. Thanks for the tip, I'll look into that. __________________ 1991 4Runner 22RE 5sp 4x4 SR5 202+K Only mod is a MotoGP bumper sticker

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