Newbie Modification Information - Page 5

cr@ves4wheelin · 08-25-2009, 08:07 PM

I got my '91 pickup with the 4 inch suspension lift and yeah it does screw up my steering components a lot. I already had to get a new idler arm by hitting a "small" bump I didn't see in the mud. I'm only 17 and money does come on the knife's edge sometimes, but I'm a proud toyota owner willing to do what I can to improve my truck.

I'm runnin 33x12.50xR15. What pinch weld modification made the tires on TC's 4-runner fit? You think I should take the lift off?

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4Crawler · 08-25-2009, 08:27 PM

Some information on the pinch weld modifications below:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...it.shtml#FAQ10

cr@ves4wheelin · 08-25-2009, 08:43 PM

Thanks

AxleIke · 08-27-2009, 10:10 PM

I wouldn't take the lift off unless you want to.

You've already got it on, and you seem to enjoy it. No need to get rid of it, unless you find yourself tipping over a lot.

If you got it, flaunt it.

This thread was mainly to point out the flaws in the normal mode of modification, ie, put on big tires and big lift to go offroad. I've found that to be least effective.

cr@ves4wheelin · 08-27-2009, 11:11 PM

Yeah you're right, I'm gonna keep it. Thanks.
Very nice thread by the way.

Wish I read it the first day I got my toyota.

Matt90V6SR5 · 09-10-2009, 01:44 AM

Me thinks I will stick with my stock 4x4 5SPD automatic disconnecting differential and just get tires and shocks upgraded.

Wes94 · 09-10-2009, 11:00 AM

So if i am going to lock up my diffs in stages, would you recommend doing the front or rear first?

Also I have heard of people putting an ARB air locker in the front and "just a detroit" in the back. Does this make sense for someone trying to keep the spending down? Would it really make a big performance difference to put an air locker in the front and rear?

I think lockers would make me a lot better at climbing steep sand hills and getting over rough sections of trail that leave me with a tire off the ground. I think they would also be helpful for pulling people out of the ditch in snow storms. Is this correct?

tc · 09-10-2009, 02:09 PM

The only lockers that don't sacrifice on-road driveability for off-road performance are the selectables (ARB or Toyota elocker in our case). Having a locker on slick surfaces actually REDUCES your lateral stability since both tires are spinning now - this can be bad on snowy roads.

Any locker will help in the steep sand hills and rough trail sections. Depending on the conditions, they may help or they may hurt when pulling people out of the snowy ditch... which is why I have dual ARB's.

One other thing to consider is if other people (wife, etc) drive your truck. With a selectable, the truck is still "stock" to them on the road. You don't have to worry that they won't believe you about staying off the throttle in turns until they put it in the ditch.

Certainly, selectables have a cost/complexity penalty over other lockers, but only you can weigh the importance of that over the performance both on the road and on the trail.

Wes94 · 09-11-2009, 04:38 AM

Thanks that makes a lot of sense. I am planning to teach my wife to drive stick (once i have a spare clutch on hand) with this truck so it would make sense to have the selectable for that reason among others.

In this case i won't be doing both at the same time unless i decide to regear both cases as well but i have 4.56 now and i don't plan on running anything bigger than 33s. I have 32x11.5s now and i like them a lot.

So should if i was going to put an ARB on just one diff for now should i do the front or back first? Or should i just save until i can do both at the same time?

tc · 09-11-2009, 03:13 PM

You can do one at a time ... IMHO, the front increases the capability of the truck more, but certainly has more downsides.... namely that you can put 100% of the torque from the motor into one CV. If you're not a throttle jockey, I say front, if you have a heavy right foot, then rear.

stock as possible · 09-15-2009, 07:29 AM

Where's a decent place to get new gears? A lot of the online stores I've looked at have new gears and master install kits for the 8" rear but don't sell either the gears or the install kits for the 7.5" IFS diff. I have a 92 pu and would like to regear to 4.88. Should I just try to pull front and rear off a V6 auto from the junk yard?

BLKNBLU · 09-15-2009, 07:53 AM

Marlin has them
http://www.marlincrawler.com/differential/ring-pinion
Also check out this site. Zuk recommends him and I got my stuff through him as well. If you call he may put together a nice package deal for you (gears & setup kits)
http://www.justdifferentials.com/ind...0b67cf64efd152

stock as possible · 09-16-2009, 09:55 AM

Thanks blknblu, I may go that route. However, I have found a craigslist post selling a 4.88 IFS diff and a new 4.88 rear gear. The seller told me the front diff came out of an 88 pu, will that bolt in to my 92 front?

tc · 09-16-2009, 10:01 AM

Yes, the 88 diff will work in your '92.

stock as possible · 09-16-2009, 10:21 AM

great TC, thanks

tc · 09-16-2009, 04:17 PM

Note: one clarification - ADD.

If your truck was ADD, then it's all good, but if it was a non-ADD diff, you have to realize that the front driveshaft will be spinning now. At some point down the road, installing manual hubs would be recommended.

If your truck was non-ADD and you install an ADD diff, you will have to lock the shift yoke "engaged". Search - there are writeups on how to do this, it's a common mod if the ADD actuator system fails.

stock as possible · 09-17-2009, 06:17 AM

Let me make sure I'm clear. My truck has the manual hubs, so if I install a front diff from an ADD truck, then I need to lock the shift yoke, correct?

Is it safe to assume that a factory 4.88 IFS diff did come off an ADD, or is that not always the case?

tc · 09-17-2009, 10:04 AM

Yes, you need to lock the ADD "engaged".

I am 99% sure that all 4.88's were ADD (since they were on high end, V6, automatic vehicles)

92_pickup_22re · 09-17-2009, 11:21 AM

i have a 3 inch bodylift on my 92 pickup what size tires can i fit underneath it? i have 33's now

tc · 09-17-2009, 02:35 PM

depends on how you use it. Offroad, with full articulation, you'll be hard pressed to run bigger than 33x12.50.

If you only cruise the mall, 35x12.50 might fit.

92_pickup_22re · 09-17-2009, 05:39 PM

thanx ur very knowledgable

stock as possible · 09-29-2009, 01:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tc

Yes, you need to lock the ADD "engaged".

I am 99% sure that all 4.88's were ADD (since they were on high end, V6, automatic vehicles)

I was just reading a different thread and thought of something. My plan is to take this IFS 4.88 diff from what was probably a V6 auto trans pu/4runner and put it in the front of my 22re manual trans truck. After this is done, and sometime down the road I'm looking at lockers for the front, would I need to buy a locker that's for the V6? It would probably be an ARB, and looking at their site, it doesn't seem like an issue, as they only show one model for the 7.5", but what about with other type lockers such as automatics?

93yota93lude · 10-08-2009, 06:52 AM

hey guys just few questions im live in florida so not much big rock stuff but there are trails through the woods and through some swampish areas i have a few questions like company's you would recommend for suspension, air intake and types of gears or just got with a locker? any info would be great!! i had this truck for a while but it was my daily now i have another daily and been taking the truck off road more and more and fell in love with that so i only have an exhaust and a body lift 3 inches and 33s on her now so any performance stuff yall would recommend would be helpful by the way its a 1993 toyota pickup 4wd 3.0 5 speed thanks alot!!!

mtnhrdgr2 · 10-26-2009, 10:30 AM

I am gonna use the thread as my 'template.' Thanks!

I am going to get new 31x10.50s. From another thread 4.56 is the gearing that I need to get, and that 4.88s would be overkill for 31s. My question is do I need to regear the front and the rear at the same time. I always thought you had to do it at the same time, but I see threads now and again that say something like '...regearing the front to match the rear...'

My goal was to put an ARB locker in the rear and the front and regear to 4.56s. If I could do one axle at a time, it would hurt my wallet less!

FYI...
I want 33x9.50s or 33x10.50s but BFG is the only manufacturer that has this. Anyways, this time I am going to go with Goodyears or Bridgestones and they only have 31x10.50s.

4Crawler · 10-26-2009, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mtnhrdgr2

I am gonna use the thread as my 'template.' Thanks!

I am going to get new 31x10.50s. From another thread 4.56 is the gearing that I need to get, and that 4.88s would be overkill for 31s. My question is do I need to regear the front and the rear at the same time. I always thought you had to do it at the same time, but I see threads now and again that say something like '...regearing the front to match the rear...'

My goal was to put an ARB locker in the rear and the front and regear to 4.56s. If I could do one axle at a time, it would hurt my wallet less!

FYI...
I want 33x9.50s or 33x10.50s but BFG is the only manufacturer that has this. Anyways, this time I am going to go with Goodyears or Bridgestones and they only have 31x10.50s.

You can re-gear one axle at a time, but do not use 4WD until both axles are geared identically. Should not be hard to find a front diff with 4.56 gears at a junkyard that you could swap out.

08-25-2009, 08:27 PM	#102 (permalink)
4Crawler Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: SF Bay Area, CA Posts: 7,832	Some information on the pinch weld modifications below: - http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...it.shtml#FAQ10 __________________ 1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs or 35x12.50 MTRs r.c.brown@ieee.org TruckEditor@tlca.org Project: 4Crawler 4Crawler OffRoad Gettin'Off 4WD Club

08-25-2009, 08:43 PM	#103 (permalink)
cr@ves4wheelin Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Eureka, CA Posts: 46	Thanks __________________ 1991 Toyota Hilux DLX 3.0L V6 w/ Trailmaster 4" suspension lift, Addicted Offroad Front bumper, Or-Fab Tire Carrier

08-27-2009, 10:10 PM	#104 (permalink)
AxleIke Contributing Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Boulder, Colorado Posts: 4,888	I wouldn't take the lift off unless you want to. You've already got it on, and you seem to enjoy it. No need to get rid of it, unless you find yourself tipping over a lot. If you got it, flaunt it. This thread was mainly to point out the flaws in the normal mode of modification, ie, put on big tires and big lift to go offroad. I've found that to be least effective. __________________ 1987 Mutant 4runner\|Slightly Modified\|Lacking general build direction -Lifts and Tires look cool at the Mall, Lockers and Gears look cool on the trail. -Internet Nice Guy

08-27-2009, 11:11 PM	#105 (permalink)
cr@ves4wheelin Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Eureka, CA Posts: 46	Yeah you're right, I'm gonna keep it. Thanks. Very nice thread by the way. Wish I read it the first day I got my toyota. __________________ 1991 Toyota Hilux DLX 3.0L V6 w/ Trailmaster 4" suspension lift, Addicted Offroad Front bumper, Or-Fab Tire Carrier

09-10-2009, 02:09 PM	#108 (permalink)
tc Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Longmont, CO Posts: 8,376	The only lockers that don't sacrifice on-road driveability for off-road performance are the selectables (ARB or Toyota elocker in our case). Having a locker on slick surfaces actually REDUCES your lateral stability since both tires are spinning now - this can be bad on snowy roads. Any locker will help in the steep sand hills and rough trail sections. Depending on the conditions, they may help or they may hurt when pulling people out of the snowy ditch... which is why I have dual ARB's. One other thing to consider is if other people (wife, etc) drive your truck. With a selectable, the truck is still "stock" to them on the road. You don't have to worry that they won't believe you about staying off the throttle in turns until they put it in the ditch. Certainly, selectables have a cost/complexity penalty over other lockers, but only you can weigh the importance of that over the performance both on the road and on the trail. __________________ Check out www.coTTORA.org to hook up with great Toyota 'wheelin' folks! Current - 93 4Runner: 3VZ 33"x10.50" no lift ARB F/R 96 Impala SS: My own personal cop car Previous - 89 2WD Pickup 22R, Fabtech "Ivan Dan" lift, 31x10.50, IASCA World Finals 4th Place Stop with the mods and get on the trail! Pix at www.4wheelingoh.shutterfly.com/action

09-10-2009, 01:44 AM	#106 (permalink)
Matt90V6SR5 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Firestone,Co. Posts: 302	Me thinks I will stick with my stock 4x4 5SPD automatic disconnecting differential and just get tires and shocks upgraded.

09-10-2009, 11:00 AM	#107 (permalink)
Wes94 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: New Brunswick, Canada Posts: 63	So if i am going to lock up my diffs in stages, would you recommend doing the front or rear first? Also I have heard of people putting an ARB air locker in the front and "just a detroit" in the back. Does this make sense for someone trying to keep the spending down? Would it really make a big performance difference to put an air locker in the front and rear? I think lockers would make me a lot better at climbing steep sand hills and getting over rough sections of trail that leave me with a tire off the ground. I think they would also be helpful for pulling people out of the ditch in snow storms. Is this correct?

09-11-2009, 04:38 AM	#109 (permalink)
Wes94 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: New Brunswick, Canada Posts: 63	Thanks that makes a lot of sense. I am planning to teach my wife to drive stick (once i have a spare clutch on hand) with this truck so it would make sense to have the selectable for that reason among others. In this case i won't be doing both at the same time unless i decide to regear both cases as well but i have 4.56 now and i don't plan on running anything bigger than 33s. I have 32x11.5s now and i like them a lot. So should if i was going to put an ARB on just one diff for now should i do the front or back first? Or should i just save until i can do both at the same time?

09-11-2009, 03:13 PM	#110 (permalink)
tc Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Longmont, CO Posts: 8,376	You can do one at a time ... IMHO, the front increases the capability of the truck more, but certainly has more downsides.... namely that you can put 100% of the torque from the motor into one CV. If you're not a throttle jockey, I say front, if you have a heavy right foot, then rear. __________________ Check out www.coTTORA.org to hook up with great Toyota 'wheelin' folks! Current - 93 4Runner: 3VZ 33"x10.50" no lift ARB F/R 96 Impala SS: My own personal cop car Previous - 89 2WD Pickup 22R, Fabtech "Ivan Dan" lift, 31x10.50, IASCA World Finals 4th Place Stop with the mods and get on the trail! Pix at www.4wheelingoh.shutterfly.com/action

09-15-2009, 07:29 AM	#111 (permalink)
stock as possible Registered User Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: North Carolina Posts: 79	Where's a decent place to get new gears? A lot of the online stores I've looked at have new gears and master install kits for the 8" rear but don't sell either the gears or the install kits for the 7.5" IFS diff. I have a 92 pu and would like to regear to 4.88. Should I just try to pull front and rear off a V6 auto from the junk yard?

09-15-2009, 07:53 AM	#112 (permalink)
BLKNBLU Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Gilbert, Arizona Posts: 1,667	Marlin has them http://www.marlincrawler.com/differential/ring-pinion Also check out this site. Zuk recommends him and I got my stuff through him as well. If you call he may put together a nice package deal for you (gears & setup kits) http://www.justdifferentials.com/ind...0b67cf64efd152 __________________ 86 4Runner, custom Sonoran Steel rear bumper, 4Crawler 1" body lift, rock sliders from Richard Stubbs, rear Lockright, SAS w/ARB My build thread. http://www.yotatech.com/f66/blknblu-s-sac-155872/

09-16-2009, 09:55 AM	#113 (permalink)
stock as possible Registered User Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: North Carolina Posts: 79	Thanks blknblu, I may go that route. However, I have found a craigslist post selling a 4.88 IFS diff and a new 4.88 rear gear. The seller told me the front diff came out of an 88 pu, will that bolt in to my 92 front? __________________ 92 4wd xcab pickup, 22re, 5 speed

09-16-2009, 10:01 AM	#114 (permalink)
tc Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Longmont, CO Posts: 8,376	Yes, the 88 diff will work in your '92. __________________ Check out www.coTTORA.org to hook up with great Toyota 'wheelin' folks! Current - 93 4Runner: 3VZ 33"x10.50" no lift ARB F/R 96 Impala SS: My own personal cop car Previous - 89 2WD Pickup 22R, Fabtech "Ivan Dan" lift, 31x10.50, IASCA World Finals 4th Place Stop with the mods and get on the trail! Pix at www.4wheelingoh.shutterfly.com/action

09-16-2009, 10:21 AM	#115 (permalink)
stock as possible Registered User Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: North Carolina Posts: 79	great TC, thanks __________________ 92 4wd xcab pickup, 22re, 5 speed

09-16-2009, 04:17 PM	#116 (permalink)
tc Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Longmont, CO Posts: 8,376	Note: one clarification - ADD. If your truck was ADD, then it's all good, but if it was a non-ADD diff, you have to realize that the front driveshaft will be spinning now. At some point down the road, installing manual hubs would be recommended. If your truck was non-ADD and you install an ADD diff, you will have to lock the shift yoke "engaged". Search - there are writeups on how to do this, it's a common mod if the ADD actuator system fails. __________________ Check out www.coTTORA.org to hook up with great Toyota 'wheelin' folks! Current - 93 4Runner: 3VZ 33"x10.50" no lift ARB F/R 96 Impala SS: My own personal cop car Previous - 89 2WD Pickup 22R, Fabtech "Ivan Dan" lift, 31x10.50, IASCA World Finals 4th Place Stop with the mods and get on the trail! Pix at www.4wheelingoh.shutterfly.com/action

09-17-2009, 06:17 AM	#117 (permalink)
stock as possible Registered User Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: North Carolina Posts: 79	Let me make sure I'm clear. My truck has the manual hubs, so if I install a front diff from an ADD truck, then I need to lock the shift yoke, correct? Is it safe to assume that a factory 4.88 IFS diff did come off an ADD, or is that not always the case? __________________ 92 4wd xcab pickup, 22re, 5 speed

09-17-2009, 10:04 AM	#118 (permalink)
tc Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Longmont, CO Posts: 8,376	Yes, you need to lock the ADD "engaged". I am 99% sure that all 4.88's were ADD (since they were on high end, V6, automatic vehicles) __________________ Check out www.coTTORA.org to hook up with great Toyota 'wheelin' folks! Current - 93 4Runner: 3VZ 33"x10.50" no lift ARB F/R 96 Impala SS: My own personal cop car Previous - 89 2WD Pickup 22R, Fabtech "Ivan Dan" lift, 31x10.50, IASCA World Finals 4th Place Stop with the mods and get on the trail! Pix at www.4wheelingoh.shutterfly.com/action

09-17-2009, 11:21 AM	#119 (permalink)
92_pickup_22re Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: stewiacke, nova scotia Posts: 32	i have a 3 inch bodylift on my 92 pickup what size tires can i fit underneath it? i have 33's now __________________ 1992 toyota pickup 4x4 3 inch bodylift 33x12.5r15 bf goodrich all terrains rollbar with offroad lights

09-17-2009, 02:35 PM	#120 (permalink)
tc Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Longmont, CO Posts: 8,376	depends on how you use it. Offroad, with full articulation, you'll be hard pressed to run bigger than 33x12.50. If you only cruise the mall, 35x12.50 might fit. __________________ Check out www.coTTORA.org to hook up with great Toyota 'wheelin' folks! Current - 93 4Runner: 3VZ 33"x10.50" no lift ARB F/R 96 Impala SS: My own personal cop car Previous - 89 2WD Pickup 22R, Fabtech "Ivan Dan" lift, 31x10.50, IASCA World Finals 4th Place Stop with the mods and get on the trail! Pix at www.4wheelingoh.shutterfly.com/action

09-17-2009, 05:39 PM	#121 (permalink)
92_pickup_22re Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: stewiacke, nova scotia Posts: 32	thanx ur very knowledgable __________________ 1992 toyota pickup 4x4 3 inch bodylift 33x12.5r15 bf goodrich all terrains rollbar with offroad lights

10-08-2009, 06:52 AM	#123 (permalink)
93yota93lude Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Florida Posts: 34	hey guys just few questions im live in florida so not much big rock stuff but there are trails through the woods and through some swampish areas i have a few questions like company's you would recommend for suspension, air intake and types of gears or just got with a locker? any info would be great!! i had this truck for a while but it was my daily now i have another daily and been taking the truck off road more and more and fell in love with that so i only have an exhaust and a body lift 3 inches and 33s on her now so any performance stuff yall would recommend would be helpful by the way its a 1993 toyota pickup 4wd 3.0 5 speed thanks alot!!!

10-26-2009, 10:30 AM	#124 (permalink)
mtnhrdgr2 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 16	I am gonna use the thread as my 'template.' Thanks! I am going to get new 31x10.50s. From another thread 4.56 is the gearing that I need to get, and that 4.88s would be overkill for 31s. My question is do I need to regear the front and the rear at the same time. I always thought you had to do it at the same time, but I see threads now and again that say something like '...regearing the front to match the rear...' My goal was to put an ARB locker in the rear and the front and regear to 4.56s. If I could do one axle at a time, it would hurt my wallet less! FYI... I want 33x9.50s or 33x10.50s but BFG is the only manufacturer that has this. Anyways, this time I am going to go with Goodyears or Bridgestones and they only have 31x10.50s. __________________ 1987 4Runner, 4-Cyl, 5spd, 31x10.50 GY Wrangler Silent Armors on 15x7 steel wheels, just broke 300K miles and counting, rebuilt engine and tranny, daily driver

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