stock as possible

Let me make sure I'm clear. My truck has the manual hubs, so if I install a front diff from an ADD truck, then I need to lock the shift yoke, correct?

Is it safe to assume that a factory 4.88 IFS diff did come off an ADD, or is that not always the case?

tc

Yes, you need to lock the ADD "engaged".

I am 99% sure that all 4.88's were ADD (since they were on high end, V6, automatic vehicles)

92_pickup_22re

i have a 3 inch bodylift on my 92 pickup what size tires can i fit underneath it? i have 33's now

tc

depends on how you use it. Offroad, with full articulation, you'll be hard pressed to run bigger than 33x12.50.

If you only cruise the mall, 35x12.50 might fit.

stock as possible

I was just reading a different thread and thought of something. My plan is to take this IFS 4.88 diff from what was probably a V6 auto trans pu/4runner and put it in the front of my 22re manual trans truck. After this is done, and sometime down the road I'm looking at lockers for the front, would I need to buy a locker that's for the V6? It would probably be an ARB, and looking at their site, it doesn't seem like an issue, as they only show one model for the 7.5", but what about with other type lockers such as automatics?

93yota93lude

hey guys just few questions im live in florida so not much big rock stuff but there are trails through the woods and through some swampish areas i have a few questions like company's you would recommend for suspension, air intake and types of gears or just got with a locker? any info would be great!! i had this truck for a while but it was my daily now i have another daily and been taking the truck off road more and more and fell in love with that so i only have an exhaust and a body lift 3 inches and 33s on her now so any performance stuff yall would recommend would be helpful by the way its a 1993 toyota pickup 4wd 3.0 5 speed thanks alot!!!

mtnhrdgr2

I am gonna use the thread as my 'template.' Thanks!

I am going to get new 31x10.50s. From another thread 4.56 is the gearing that I need to get, and that 4.88s would be overkill for 31s. My question is do I need to regear the front and the rear at the same time. I always thought you had to do it at the same time, but I see threads now and again that say something like '...regearing the front to match the rear...'

My goal was to put an ARB locker in the rear and the front and regear to 4.56s. If I could do one axle at a time, it would hurt my wallet less!

FYI...
I want 33x9.50s or 33x10.50s but BFG is the only manufacturer that has this. Anyways, this time I am going to go with Goodyears or Bridgestones and they only have 31x10.50s.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

You can re-gear one axle at a time, but do not use 4WD until both axles are geared identically. Should not be hard to find a front diff with 4.56 gears at a junkyard that you could swap out.

4RunningColorado

Hey TC...

Your RIG is TIGHT MAN...

I am in Boulder...

Where is a good place to get rear lockers and armor and how much would these two things cost...

NEXT question...Do you think 31's are ok??? or should I go up to 33 and would the car run week without re-gearing if I put 33's on??? it is my daily driver and she see's highways offten...

Thanks...

4RunningColorado

what does the installation intail?

is this hard to do on an 89 runner?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Basically pull the old front diff. and install the new one, you can get a rough idea below, skipping the center of the writeup about the air locker installation and set up:
- http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/4Runne...ifs_airlocker/

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

the write up is a good one.

if you get a lock right or Aussie you can install that one yourself.
I did the rear Aussie install on my '81 following one of Zuk's installs at
http://gearinstalls.com/

you can check out my build thread around page 6 post 144 or so for my locker install write up

basically to pull a rear third:
1. jack up the rear of the truck, place axle on jackstands, block the front wheels (all on a level surface)
2. undo the rear brake lines
3. disconnect the e-brake cables
3a> drain the rear diff
4. undo the 4 14mm nuts on each axle and pull out the axle/brake assembly
-some people say that they can get away with out doing the brake lines and only pulliing the axle out far enough to get the third out and letting the axle rest in the axle tube but I ended up =having to replace the axle seals a month or so later..
5. undo the rear drive shaft (4 bolts)
6. remove the 10 or 12 12mm nuts holding the rear third in...it might take some finangling to get it out andi it ways about 30 pounds or so.

do your diff work or take it somewhere to have it done

reinstall in reverse order just adding 90w or other appropriate gear oil.

tc

There are several models in 33x10.50, and several more if you add 255/85-16 into the mix. Notably, Toyo Opencountry MT is available in 33x10.50-15 and Trxus MT and Maxxis Bighorn in 255/85-16

Depends on what gearing you have. If you have the 4.56, it's "OK" - not great, not horrible. Higher gears (lower number) and you likely won't be able to use 5th here at altitude.

I would recommend All Phase here in Longmont as the best shop for Toyota work closest to you.

Personally, I think 33's are a significant step up in ground clearance over 31's, and I personally like the "stuffed" wheel well look better.

If you can find diffs, it's not too hard to swap a front diff and a rear thirdmember. If you're doing a "full" locker (as opposed to a lunchbox), I would save up another month and pay a pro to do it. If you want lockers, you should do gears while you're at in IMHO

AxleIke

Where in Boulder are you?

jrobertson4runnner

Thanks to all of y'all experienced guys, the advice was appreciated. I am still kinda new to 'wheelin, but I have done some. I live in Texas, and from what I have experienced, that means a little bit of everything. I don't plan to do a lot of mud, as my truck has 365k+ on it. I realize that this was created as a guide, not something to be copied exactly, but nonetheless I still have some questions.

I want mostly functionality, but at the same time I am 18 and, admittedly, I like to show off a bit. Because of this I plan to do a mild lift, with some slightly larger tires. I do also plan on installing an ARB locker on the rear, and eventually doing a SAS on the front(adding another ARB in the process). The tires I plan on using are 33's, and I am wondering what would be the best gears for them. My rig is a '91 4Runner, SR5 v6, with a 5 speed.

Another question is, does anyone know where a good place to get armor here in Texas is? I am another poor college student, but am willing to save to be able to buy the good stuff if need be.

Other than that, the only other question I have may seem a little dumb, but I am still a bit of a newbie. i have seen several references to the "third member", and am wondering exactly what it is.

Thanks again, y'all have been a big help.

tc

The thirdmember is a drop out differential housing, like a Ford 9".
http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/

For 33's with a manual transmission, 4.88 would put you close to stock, but ....

Doing a SAS to run 33's is silly IMHO. As is doing a "mild lift" when you have plans to SAS, so I would do 5.29 now and plan on 35's later.

tc

I think it is very likely that the person who told you that does not have a locker on IFS.

AxleIke

ARB air lockers give you a significant upgrade in strength in the carrier on early IFS trucks. Later trucks with clamshell diffs have issues due to a weak housing design.

People who say lockers in IFS is a bad idea either don't have one and read a bunch on the net, or have one, and can't drive.

IFS is a different system than most are used to. If you understand the system and drive to the strengths, you can do a whole lot with it.

In my experience, for general wheeling and mild rocks, IFS likes to be driven slow, while avoiding extreme angles on pressure situations.

So, stay off the throttle, and avoid turning full lock and trying to climb/descend something.

Also, IFS likes a smaller tire. 33's are a good compromise for decent clearance and parts stress.

Not sure what you consider showing off, but you can do at least moderately difficult trails with your IFS. You won't be doing any hardcore stuff, unless you like body damage, but you can get up most things.

Mine does pretty well with a front locker and 33's:







And no, nothing broke, and yes it drove through without any assistance from another truck.

jrobertson4runnner

That's a sweet rig man. Thanks again for the help, I just want to clarify, what years are you talkin when you say "early IFS"? I don't know what year the IFS started, but I'm pretty sure that with a '91 I have one of the earlier IFS 4Runners.

tc

Early IFS is '86 to '95 - basically, the pre-Tacoma torsion bar setup, not the Tacoma/3rd+ gen 4Runner coilover setup.