Leaking rear differential
03-29-2012, 01:53 PM
#41
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When viewing your album, hover over the image you want and click the IMG code on the bottom of the popup window. That will copy it to your clipboard so you can right-click & paste it here.
03-29-2012, 01:59 PM
#42
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Ya beat me to it. I'd start with re-sealing the third member to the housing. Might as well replace the studs with bolts while you have it out...just need (10) M8x1.25 bolts and a tap to chase the threads. Also make sure the breather isn't clogged. I did a half-decent write-up on most of this recently:
03-29-2012, 02:03 PM
#43
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Ya beat me to it. I'd start with re-sealing the third member to the housing. Might as well replace the studs with bolts while you have it out...just need (10) M8x1.25 bolts and a tap to chase the threads. Also make sure the breather isn't clogged. I did a half-decent write-up on most of this recently:
03-29-2012, 02:14 PM
#44
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Black RTV...silicone gasket maker.
A tap is what cuts the threads...threading a tap into existing threads just cleans them up.
The studs have a tendency to pull out over time. When you thread a bolt from inside the housing, the bolt head prevents it from ever pulling out.
Check out that link I posted above.
A tap is what cuts the threads...threading a tap into existing threads just cleans them up.
The studs have a tendency to pull out over time. When you thread a bolt from inside the housing, the bolt head prevents it from ever pulling out.
Check out that link I posted above.
03-31-2012, 10:06 AM
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http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...0331-00582.jpg
is this okay? i have never lifted the rear end before...only changed tires so i don't want to do it wrong!!! i saw pics like this online
is this okay? i have never lifted the rear end before...only changed tires so i don't want to do it wrong!!! i saw pics like this online
03-31-2012, 10:10 AM
#51
That is basically what I do. Makes little difference where the stands go, the wider the better (more stability). If you have the stock inverted u-bolts, it is kind of hard to put the stands under the springs since the wonky u-bolt plate is there. Just make sure the top of the stands won't interfere with anything like brake lines.
03-31-2012, 10:13 AM
#52
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it doesnt look like it will. im just replacing the seal on the differential so i probably don't need it lifted more than that? do i have to remove the tires to do that?
03-31-2012, 10:17 AM
#53
Again photos of where the leak is or a better description of what "seal" you are replacing would help. If the pinion seal where the driveshaft bolts up, then no jacks are needed. If you are pulling the 3rd member to reseal around the flange, then yes, you'll need the jacks and stands and remove the wheels and pull out the axles ~4" on each side. Why? You need to pull the axle shafts far enough out of the differential to allow it to be removed. 4 nuts hold each side in place, disconnect e-brake cable and unscrew/cap the brake hard lines to each side. Then slide the axle shaft out, taking care not to damage the inner axle seal, so support the axle as it comes out instead of dragging it over the seal.
03-31-2012, 10:29 AM
#55
Yes, recall those, but it was not real clear where the leak was from. "Seal" normally refers to the pinion seal or the axle seals out at the ends of the axle, like where a rotating or sliding shaft passes through a seal to keep oil in or contamination out. The 3rd member flange is more of a gasket (if you use the factory paper gasket) or some RTV (or FIPG Form In Place Gasket) to make a gasket.
03-31-2012, 02:57 PM
#60
Looks like the factory exhaust/muffler hanger.
Vent/breather on the right side and from your other photo, looks like the brake hard line/tee. You might make sure the breather is not clogged, if so, it can let pressure build up in the axle and force gear oil out. Fill hole is the 24mm bolt on the back side of the axle housing.
Vent/breather on the right side and from your other photo, looks like the brake hard line/tee. You might make sure the breather is not clogged, if so, it can let pressure build up in the axle and force gear oil out. Fill hole is the 24mm bolt on the back side of the axle housing.
