Budman1

hello, I've been looking in all the wrong places...
i have a 92 4runner 4x4 3.0, lost oil pressure and engine died, did not run hot......want to look for codes before starting other obvious test.
so... how do I test for codes?
thanks,
bud

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

[YOUTUBE] [/YOUTUBE]

Budman1

Many thanks dropzone

Budman1

I've crossed E1 &TE1.....
ce light flashes, didn't stop, I counted to 100...
ECT pwr light is on....
im searching forum now

Charchee

I doubt loss of oil pressure is going to throw a code since it's not electrically regulated. How did the engine die? Peacefully I hope.

Budman1

Ok Charchee, I recon its time for fuller exposure,
i just bought a 92 4runner, 3.0, 4x4, doa..... The story is: PO was driving when the engine started losing power, he looked at guages and had '0' oil pressure, temp was normal, would not restart, end of story from PO. He flat towed about 35 miles and parked it.
Oil dip shows full and clean, radiator is at least lower than top coils, looks dry, has an electric fan......overall its been neglected. I bought it for parts, but now want to read codes to discover why (????) the engine 'really' quit running. The battery was very low, I could not get codes, when I connected the charger to it, the charger tripped off, now I'm going to change out battery, again looking for codes, I'm looking for the answer to, "what hurts buddy, why did you quit running, can I correct that hurt?"
Bottom line is, is this runner 'dead', or just sick? I'm thinking, just sick.
Any suggestions, anyone?
many thanks, this is a great community, with maybe 5-6 ol grouches.

Bud

Budman1

New day new info......New Battery too......what is code 12?

Charchee

i bought my 89 Runner DOA on its way to the crusher. Took a long time but I got it back in great shape and I really enjoyed the project. I have great notes and a lot of spare parts from a parts truck along with a good harness hanging on my wall if you have questions about where something is.

Check your oil pressure sensor and gauge. No point getting it running if it won't make oil pressure.

Budman1

code 12==KNOCK SENSOR!!!!!!!,

while I am preparing to test the knock sensor I am wondering "would the knock sensor problem shut the engine down?"

Anyone?

Budman1

Charchee, I've installed a new battery, manually tested oil pressure, its good, engine spun over fine, no runny, I also got a code 12, knock sensor. I'm going to sit for awhile and read so I'm sure in how to test that critter and or replace it. I have not torn into this engine at all, waiting to be sure it needs it.
So, I have oil pressure, code 12, what else may prevent the engine from running. Remember it was running and quit on the highway, has not run since.
Thanks friend for your help,
Bud

Charchee

I don't think the knock sensor will completely shut one down but it could make timing adjustments that would make it run terrible. It's a major ordeal to change. Let's do a little more troubleshooting first.

Check your EFI fuse.
There are also a couple relays but we'll come back to those.
Jump the FP and B+ pins on your diognostic connector and turn the key to run. You should hear the fuel pump run. If not, then you have a fuel issue. You can start it up this way but not a good idea to bypass the fuel pump shutoff permantly. What you are doing here is checking the fuel pump and determining whether or not the air flow meter is not working. As you crank the engine, air comes through the meter and the meter sends the signal to start the fuel pump.

Check that fuse and do the fuel pump test. Let us know how those go. Also, it's always a good idea to change the fuel filter before troubleshooting an issue like this.

Budman1

EFI will be next on the check-list......tomorrow, enough today already nap time
btw, where around Russelville are you

Budman1

Happy Today!!!!!

Today I changed the Fuel filter, first tIme I've ever thought it would be easier to change one if I 'dropped ' the transmission.
Fuel pump humms,EFI fuse good, still no runney, spray ether in it will run, not stay running..
im back to the books, why I'm not getting fuel????

Charchee

If you can run on ether then your timing isn't completely off and it seems you have a working fuel pump. If we want to stay in order, which is a good thing, verify that fuel is actually flowing by taking the return line off the pressure regulator and run the pump while the fuel flows into a container. Should be a constant flow since no fuel is being used with the engine off. That's probably going to check out so hook it back up securely. That's going to leave you with no injector signal for some reason.

I'm not the best at tracking down these issues although I just recently had the same thing happen. I found my ECM fuse burnt and after replacing it, nothing. I cheated and swapped out my ECM with my spare and she hasn't quit yet. If you don't have that cheat code then you are going to need to check another few things. There is a circuit opening relay that can shut you down. You'll need to search for it's location but I'm pretty sure it's behind the glove box somewhere. You can test for power at the ecm to make sure it is getting from the fuse to the computer and then you can start testing the coil / igniter. This part not only sends power to the distributor for spark but also delivers a signal back to the ECM to tell it when to open the injectors. You can check the signal at the number two or maybe four injector but since it uses a tiny pulse of ground to complete the circuit, it's really hard to get a reading that won't mislead you. To explain that further, with the ECM on, you will have voltage on both sides of the injector and the ECM sends a quick ground signal to one side when it's time to close the circuit and allow it to spray. Very difficult to test. If you had a buddy with a similar truck, you could borrow a couple of his working parts and plug them up to rule out yours as the problem. Again, this is cheating but some folks drive their trucks to work everyday and don't have several hours to check all of this the right way. I completely understand that. Mine can just sit until I have time to fool with it.

Budman1

Thanks Charchee, this helps move forward, I'm encouraged with the progress so far, and this cat will run yet.
Bud

Budman1

Well Charchee it's been an interesting day sir, I started out as you suggested, checking fuel pressure, ECM fuse is good. From there I looked at the ECM, no burns, breaks.....last to the TPS, I think the connection was loose but I took it off, cleaned it and put it back on, the truck runs!!!!!!!
It has start up cold oil pressure up to about 50, warm pressure is about 18. Now I hear a tapping sound, reminds me of a stuck lifter, then it will go away, back and forth, I'm thinking of adding upper lube to the oil to see if that will quiet the noise, after I do the Seafoam cleanser thru the throttle body. Might you or anyone else have another suggestion?
Im also going to flush the radiator, any product suggestions, besides Spic 'n Span......I will use Toyota Red coolant.
thanks for all your help sir!!!

Budman1

Hey Charchee....I started a new thread, after I got it running it started rattling like a stuck lifter and we were moving in another direction.....
any advice from you I really appreciate,
thanks,
(https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post52340664)