Differential gears

girlcrazy_4 · 01-08-2009, 08:58 PM

I am curious what gears I have in my trucks,

First, what is stock for a 1990 runner 2door 3.0 5speed??
And what is stock for a 1994 pickup 3.0 5speed.

I am wanting to weld up my rear diff, but if the truck is the same I will take it out and get it welded properly VS just welding the diff in my runner.

Would I have drivability problems? I use it as a daily driver, 30" bias ply tires, stock height and It is winter... Driving on snow. Would it be predictable of skid out alot. Will it be okay on dry pavement?? I plan on retiring the truck from DD to strictly trail rig once the snow melts. Breaks down too much for a reliable DD

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Matt16 · 01-08-2009, 09:18 PM

4.10 or 4.56, for both trucks. Read the door jamb code, the google it. Weld it and you'll wear out your tires and make you wish you'd bought a Lock Right instead.

girlcrazy_4 · 01-09-2009, 11:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt16

4.10 or 4.56, for both trucks. Read the door jamb code, the google it. Weld it and you'll wear out your tires and make you wish you'd bought a Lock Right instead.

How quickly are we talking about wearing out the tires...? Would 75% last a summer??

**UKMyers** · 01-09-2009, 11:57 PM

Moved to Newbie Tech
Wow sweet... third time THIS WEEK I've posted this link

http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/ar....jsp?id=274535

Man this information is SO easy to find with just a tiny smidge of effort. Please take that little bit of time and look around for yourself. And yes depending on your driving habits a welded rear on a DD will destroy your tires very quickly.

stormin94 · 01-10-2009, 12:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt16

4.10 or 4.56, for both trucks. Read the door jamb code, the google it. Weld it and you'll wear out your tires and make you wish you'd bought a Lock Right instead.

Are you sure it's not 4.30?

**UKMyers** · 01-10-2009, 12:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stormin94

Are you sure it's not 4.30?

It could be any of the above. It all depends on the options, tire size, ect ect. Only the door jamb knows this mysterious secret of what gears a Toyota has in it. Another simple way to check is to jack up your truck. Make a mark with chalk on your tire and on on your driveshaft. Turn the tire one full revolution and count how many times the driveline turns. That sounds like a lot of work though

stormin94 · 01-10-2009, 12:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UKMyers

It could be any of the above. It all depends on the options, tire size, ect ect. Only the door jamb knows this mysterious secret of what gears a Toyota has in it. Another simple way to check is to jack up your truck. Make a mark with chalk on your tire and on on your driveshaft. Turn the tire one full revolution and count how many times the driveline turns. That sounds like a lot of work though

Good call.

FredTJ · 01-10-2009, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by girlcrazy_4

<SNIP>

I am wanting to weld up my rear diff, but if the truck is the same I will take it out and get it welded properly VS just welding the diff in my runner.

Why ??

Quote:

Would I have drivability problems? I use it as a daily driver, 30" bias ply tires, stock height and It is winter... Driving on snow. <SNIP>

Yes you would have drivability problems, more so in the winter in the snow and ice. Leads back to my original question of why...

Fred

girlcrazy_4 · 01-11-2009, 12:26 AM

Why... Increased traction. If I flex out, all the power goes to the wheels with the least friction and I'm easily getting stuck. Welded = not stuck as easily as there is always power going to the ground.

Just reading up on vins, and having a hard time decoding. From what I understand is that I have a G252 diff (4.56 ratio) with the 31"-10.5 tire option.

scuba · 01-11-2009, 12:36 AM

Joey is the shiz

FredTJ · 01-11-2009, 06:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by girlcrazy_4

Why... Increased traction. If I flex out, all the power goes to the wheels with the least friction and I'm easily getting stuck. Welded = not stuck as easily as there is always power going to the ground.

Just reading up on vins, and having a hard time decoding. From what I understand is that I have a G252 diff (4.56 ratio) with the 31"-10.5 tire option.

You need to get out with some other people who wheel, and see what your vehicle(s) can do as they are and how to actually drive it off road.
Generally, locking a vehicle is one of the last things that you want to do.
Things like armor and additional bracing come waaaayyyyy before locking it, especially a stock vehicle.
Where you are and the type of winter driving conditions you have, locking it via an auto locking (or welding) really isn't the way to go.

Wheel it stock. Learn how to wheel. Go out with other people and you'll start seeing what works and what really doesn't (mod wise).
Armor it. Brace it.
After that consider locking it.
Then later, after your understand your vehicle and can afford it, lock it with manual lockers

Fred

01-11-2009, 12:36 AM	#10 (permalink)
scuba Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: WHEELIN BIG BEAR Posts: 6,968	Joey is the shiz __________________ Screw you guys I'm goin to TTORA Mods, please be mature and leave my sig alone, thanks. No, I will not be your friend.

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01-11-2009, 12:26 AM	#9 (permalink)
girlcrazy_4 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 40	Why... Increased traction. If I flex out, all the power goes to the wheels with the least friction and I'm easily getting stuck. Welded = not stuck as easily as there is always power going to the ground. Just reading up on vins, and having a hard time decoding. From what I understand is that I have a G252 diff (4.56 ratio) with the 31"-10.5 tire option.