mitch88RN63

anyone have a simple way of holding the motor from turning while removing the dampener? Not really wanting to take the starter off to play with flywheel. I tried putting it in 2nd gear with parking brake on and it crawled over the two by four I put in front of the tire.

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

Are you trying to remove the crank bolt? 22re is pretty easy. Put a long enough breaker bar on it so it will contact the bottom side of the passenger frame rail. Pull the cool wire so it won't start and bump the starter. Bolt should come loose pretty easy.

mitch88RN63

Still have to reinstall it later. Has to be another way.

millball

If you're gona drop the oil pan as part of your repair, you can drop the pan before you remove the damper and block a crank throw with a hammer handle, a drift, or similar.

Same for reinstallation.

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

Totally forgot about this way. Good call.

Rumbleweed0302

Take your tie rods off

millball

???? I'd like to hear more about this...

mitch88RN63

Not removing the oil pan. Found the dampener is rotated over a quarter turn and need to remove to replace the key and reinstall. I was thinking of putting a bar through the yoke of the transmission. Will try tomorrow.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I always remove the radiator and use a impact .

I did make a plate that bolted to the 4 M8 bolt holes hole in the center that allowed access for the socket

This had a handle on to hold or brace while torquing the bolt

I hope your key way in the crank is not worn to large to keep it from working

mitch88RN63

Ok, got it off easily by using a bar in the tranny yoke. The problem isn't the key. The dampener pulley seems to be screwed up. The timing notch and the keyway do not line up. They are about 90 degrees off. Is this a sign of a bad dampener or an incorrect part? When the keyway is at 12 o'clock, the timing notch is at 9 o'clock approximately.

millball

Damper is toast. Better that than buggered up crank snout.

mitch88RN63

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

I have heard people say that they can slip but never seen pics of it. Make sure when you put it back together that the crank keyway and the cam sprocket are both at 12 o'clock and number 1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke (if the cap and rotor are installed the rotor points to where the number 1 plug wire goes. About 10:30 I think).

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

I want to see a buggered up crank snout

millball

Well, since this is a family show, this is all you get:

mitch88RN63

The motor was running when I took the dampener off so I know the cam is timed correctly. I only took it off because I couldn't time it with a timing light and it was missing pretty bad. I can't see any evidence that the thing has revolved 270 degrees while staying basically flush inside and out and no signs of tearing of the rubber. That's why I questioned weather it belonged to this engine. The engine is newly rebuilt from somewhere in Nevada. It has a warranty so I'll try to get them to supply a replacement part. Thanks for your comments, well some of them.

millball

It is possible that the harmonic balancer is not correct. I guess you'll be able to make a comparison with a known correct one when you get one in your hands.

Let us know what you find please.

mitch88RN63

mitch88RN63

after further inspection, I noticed these two indentations that correspond to the bolt holes for the puller. I am now confident in saying this damper has rotated at some point as the dents don't line up with the holes anymore.

millball

Well, I guess that shows for certain that it has moved.