corolla spark plug question
#1
Ok this sites not letting me post anything new for some reason... But I have a question I have a 96 Toyota corolla dx. Yes I know nothing special... Yet.. I'm wandering and can't figure out the differences. I habe autolite double platinum spark plugs app3923. My car calls for app3924 one heat rang higher... Could I get away with the difference? Or should I not even try it I don't see a huge deal being that it's a lower heat range. Idk I need some help. TY
Last edited by toydx; 11-24-2012 at 09:17 PM.
#4
Keywords: Heat Dissipation, Self-Cleaning Temperature, Carbon Fouling, Overheating, Pre-Ignition
NGK Spark Plugs Heat Rating
The spark plug heat range has no relationship to the electrical energy transferred through the spark plug. The heat range of a spark plug is the range in which the plug works well thermally. The heat rating of each NGK spark plug is indicated by a number; lower numbers indicate a hotter type, higher numbers indicate a colder type.
Heat rating and heat flow path of NGK Spark Plugs
Some basic structural factors affecting the heat range of a spark plug are:
The heat range must be carefully selected for proper spark plug thermal performance. If the heat range is not optimal, then serious trouble can be the result. The optimal firing end temperature is approximately between 500°C (932°F) and 800°C (1472°F). The two most common causes of spark plug problems are carbon fouling (< 450°C) and overheating (> 800°C).
[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LbR75wq9nmM&list=UUu2huI6REDC28nLVcQk2IyQ& index=24&feature=plcp[/YOUTUBE]
Causes of Carbon Fouling:
Carbon fouling occurs when the spark plug firing end does not reach the self-cleaning temperature of approximately 450°C (842°F). Carbon deposits will begin to burn off from the insulator nose when the self-cleaning temperature is reached. When the heat range is too cold for the engine speed, the firing end temperature will stay below 450°C and carbon deposits will accumulate on the insulator nose. This is called carbon fouling. When enough carbon accumulates, the spark will travel the path of least resistance over the insulator nose to the metal shell instead of jumping across the gap. This usually results in a misfire and further fouling.
If the selected spark plug heat range is too cold, the spark plug may begin to foul when the engine speed is low or when operating in cold conditions with rich air-fuel mixtures. In some cases, the insulator nose can usually be cleaned by operating the engine at higher speeds in order to reach the self-cleaning temperature. If the spark plug has completely fouled, and the engine will not operate correctly, the spark plug may need to be cleaned / replaced and the fouling cause identified.
Causes of Overheating:
As a general guideline, among identical spark plug types, the difference in tip temperature from one heat range to the next is approximately 70°C to 100°C.
The spark plug heat range has no relationship to the electrical energy transferred through the spark plug. The heat range of a spark plug is the range in which the plug works well thermally. The heat rating of each NGK spark plug is indicated by a number; lower numbers indicate a hotter type, higher numbers indicate a colder type.
Heat rating and heat flow path of NGK Spark Plugs
Some basic structural factors affecting the heat range of a spark plug are:
- Surface area and/or length of the insulator nose
- Thermal conductivity of the insulator, center electrode, etc.
- Structure of the center electrode such as a copper core, etc.
- Relative position of the insulator tip to the end of the shell (projection)
The heat range must be carefully selected for proper spark plug thermal performance. If the heat range is not optimal, then serious trouble can be the result. The optimal firing end temperature is approximately between 500°C (932°F) and 800°C (1472°F). The two most common causes of spark plug problems are carbon fouling (< 450°C) and overheating (> 800°C).
[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LbR75wq9nmM&list=UUu2huI6REDC28nLVcQk2IyQ& index=24&feature=plcp[/YOUTUBE]
Causes of Carbon Fouling:
- Continuous low speed driving and/or short trips
- Spark plug heat range too cold
- Air-fuel mixture too rich
- Reduced compression and oil usage due to worn piston rings / cylinder walls
- Over-retarded ignition timing
- Ignition system deterioration
Carbon fouling occurs when the spark plug firing end does not reach the self-cleaning temperature of approximately 450°C (842°F). Carbon deposits will begin to burn off from the insulator nose when the self-cleaning temperature is reached. When the heat range is too cold for the engine speed, the firing end temperature will stay below 450°C and carbon deposits will accumulate on the insulator nose. This is called carbon fouling. When enough carbon accumulates, the spark will travel the path of least resistance over the insulator nose to the metal shell instead of jumping across the gap. This usually results in a misfire and further fouling.
If the selected spark plug heat range is too cold, the spark plug may begin to foul when the engine speed is low or when operating in cold conditions with rich air-fuel mixtures. In some cases, the insulator nose can usually be cleaned by operating the engine at higher speeds in order to reach the self-cleaning temperature. If the spark plug has completely fouled, and the engine will not operate correctly, the spark plug may need to be cleaned / replaced and the fouling cause identified.
Causes of Overheating:
- Spark plug heat range too hot
- Insufficient tightening torque and/or no gasket
- Over-advanced ignition timing
- Fuel octane rating too low (knock is present)
- Excessively lean air-fuel mixture
- Excessive combustion chamber deposits
- Continuous driving under excessively heavy load
- Insufficient engine cooling or lubrication
As a general guideline, among identical spark plug types, the difference in tip temperature from one heat range to the next is approximately 70°C to 100°C.
Last edited by MudHippy; 11-25-2012 at 07:21 AM.
#5
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Well, I'm wrong again. Most of the stuff that I have been taught is just a bunch of lies. I knew about the self cleaning, but I also had the understanding that running a slightly hotter plug would result in the spark getting a bit hotter which would, in turn, burn off a bit more gases in the combustion process. You mean to tell me I've been lied to all these years...? Oh...the pain....
Good job Mudhippy. You're a genius about everything. No one can ever doubt your knowledge about anything in our universe, and quite possibly other galaxies as well. All Hail the Hippy!!
Good job Mudhippy. You're a genius about everything. No one can ever doubt your knowledge about anything in our universe, and quite possibly other galaxies as well. All Hail the Hippy!!
Last edited by rokblok; 11-25-2012 at 09:01 AM.
#7
No duh...
Here's clue for ya...heat range applies to ALL brands/types of spark plugs!!!
And here's another bonus freebie...those of us who know any better use OEM brand spark plugs(Denso or NGK...ONLY!!!) in our engines. Since FYI...Toyota does NOT call for Autolite spark plugs in ANY of their engines!
Here's clue for ya...heat range applies to ALL brands/types of spark plugs!!!
And here's another bonus freebie...those of us who know any better use OEM brand spark plugs(Denso or NGK...ONLY!!!) in our engines. Since FYI...Toyota does NOT call for Autolite spark plugs in ANY of their engines!
Last edited by MudHippy; 11-25-2012 at 03:17 PM.
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#8
Really guy???? I know about the heat range but I was filling you in on my specs... Since u obviously didn't read a word I wrote. TRYING A LOWER HEAT RANGE in a DSI ENGINE.No (maybe) a Toyota engine don't call for auto lite (maybe) but my engines been replaced. I asked one simply question. Not meant for all the other bs.. Just some reassurance. I really didn't think it would bunch your thong. I'm sorry..., thanks for nothing. ...
#9
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iTrader: (1)
The main reason Toyota doesn't recommend Autolite plugs is they are a resistor type spark plug. They were designed for High Energy Ignition(HEI) systems. It basically tones down the spark a little to help the plugs last a little longer. Toyota uses a low energy system, so any resistance isn't a great idea. ND(Nippondenso) or NGK(?) are recommended plugs for Japanese vehicles generally speaking. Auto liters will work, and I have seen some last a while, and I've seen others cause run ability issues immediately upon installation. NDs or NGKs are available at most any parts tires, with Advance seeming to have the best OE parts for Toyotas.
But again, I'm sure Mud will call me stupid and I'm sure I don't know anything...
But again, I'm sure Mud will call me stupid and I'm sure I don't know anything...
#10
Ok cool thank you finally a straight forward answer. Will the titaniums cause any permanent damage? That you know of? I'm just trying to learn and inform myself. Because I'm hearing completely different sides. So I'm simply trying to make a informed decision. Due to what I have read an discussed the ones I have shouldn't cause much of a difference. If they don't ''make the performance better.''... Supposedly the double titaniums act as the reg plugs. Supposedly ..Idk just not sure... Thank.you for all your help tho much appreciation... Do you have any experience with the toy Corolla dx? I have another lame question for you. If you could help..
#11
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iTrader: (1)
I have worked on Corollas, but never owned one.
The deal with the titanium plugs, usually, is that they only have titanium tips on the electrodes. It's not a titanium core throughout the spark plug. (As far as i know) Same goes for platinum plugs. It helps the wear a bit, but not enough to justify the expense, in my opinion. You can buy several sets of regular plugs for the cost of one set of titaniums or platinums probably. I just run regular old NDs or NGKs in my Toys. They're just a wee bit more than your standard Autolites I believe, and I have never had a failure, whereas I have had issues with Autolites in imports. If it were a domestic engine, Autolites are great. Import ignition systems are a bit more finicky, in my experience.
If your just stuck with the Autolites, run them for a little while. Then swap them when you can grab 4 NDs or NGKs. Be sure to use anti-seize on the threads of the plug.
The deal with the titanium plugs, usually, is that they only have titanium tips on the electrodes. It's not a titanium core throughout the spark plug. (As far as i know) Same goes for platinum plugs. It helps the wear a bit, but not enough to justify the expense, in my opinion. You can buy several sets of regular plugs for the cost of one set of titaniums or platinums probably. I just run regular old NDs or NGKs in my Toys. They're just a wee bit more than your standard Autolites I believe, and I have never had a failure, whereas I have had issues with Autolites in imports. If it were a domestic engine, Autolites are great. Import ignition systems are a bit more finicky, in my experience.
If your just stuck with the Autolites, run them for a little while. Then swap them when you can grab 4 NDs or NGKs. Be sure to use anti-seize on the threads of the plug.
#12
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Put the plugs you have in the car and run them. It's a 4AFE I'm pretty sure it'd run with a match in each hole as long as it stayed lit. Toyota doesn't recommend Autolites because they're not what Toyota installs, same way Ford doesn't recommend an NGK or an AC-Delco plug for their engines and GM doesn't spec Motorcraft.
As long as the plug is the correct reach and fits in the hole, you'll likely never notice a bit of difference on a low compression, 87 octane commuter car engine. I prefer iridium plugs because of their longer service life.
People put WAY too much thought into spark plugs. I've got a set of USED Iridium plugs out of a Honda Civic in my truck right now and it runs like a freaking top. Car came in with a blown motor and something like 35k on it, service interval for those plugs is 100k so I'll be juuuust fine with em.
What's your other Corolla question?
As long as the plug is the correct reach and fits in the hole, you'll likely never notice a bit of difference on a low compression, 87 octane commuter car engine. I prefer iridium plugs because of their longer service life.
People put WAY too much thought into spark plugs. I've got a set of USED Iridium plugs out of a Honda Civic in my truck right now and it runs like a freaking top. Car came in with a blown motor and something like 35k on it, service interval for those plugs is 100k so I'll be juuuust fine with em.
What's your other Corolla question?
Last edited by TrikeKid; 12-02-2012 at 04:00 PM.
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