Burnt oil around exhaust valves
#1
Burnt oil around exhaust valves
So I finally worked up the courage to pull my head cover off and find out why my truck burns so much oil. Here is what I found:
The first picture is the cracks in the head gasket all along the exhaust side. There was some oil leaking there so I knew to expect that.
The second picture is of huge lumps of black sludge that appears to be burnt oil. There are significant deposits of it near all 4 exhaust valves.
I assume this means the valves aren't closing all the way or they aren't sealing when they do close. What parts do I need to replace? This is the farthest I've ever taken apart an engine, so it's all pretty much new to me, but it doesn't seem too hard so far. I just label everything as I take it apart and follow the chilton's manual.
Thanks in advance for the help!
The first picture is the cracks in the head gasket all along the exhaust side. There was some oil leaking there so I knew to expect that.
The second picture is of huge lumps of black sludge that appears to be burnt oil. There are significant deposits of it near all 4 exhaust valves.
I assume this means the valves aren't closing all the way or they aren't sealing when they do close. What parts do I need to replace? This is the farthest I've ever taken apart an engine, so it's all pretty much new to me, but it doesn't seem too hard so far. I just label everything as I take it apart and follow the chilton's manual.
Thanks in advance for the help!
#3
Registered User
1) Thats a valve cover gasket
2) You might need to get your valves re lapped to make them seal up again.
Then you'll need to get new guides, and seals. And while you're in there, look into new springs and adjuster nuts.
And since you're going to be pulling the head, replace the timing chain, and timing chain guides.
2) You might need to get your valves re lapped to make them seal up again.
Then you'll need to get new guides, and seals. And while you're in there, look into new springs and adjuster nuts.
And since you're going to be pulling the head, replace the timing chain, and timing chain guides.
#5
Looks like the oil changes aren't done on time. Clean it, Check your valve clearance and run it. Are you burning oil at idle? are you burning oil when its reving? Your valve stem seals are most likely toast. If this was my truck I would pull the head and rebuild it.
#6
Sorry I should have specified. It's a 1988 truck with a 22RE. It's only got 164k miles but the guy that owned it before me did not take very good care of it at all. I don't doubt the oil changes were not on time.
Yeah, valve cover gasket... that's umm... what I meant to say... lol. This is why I'm posting in the newbie section haha.
I found small bits of sludge here and there, but it's obvious the exhaust valves are the source of it.
I really am afraid I'll get in over my head if I have to mess with the timing, but I suppose I don't really have any other choice, do I? From what I've read on here everyone recommends engnbldr.com for rebuild kits. I really don't want to pull the engine out, in fact I want to keep this as simple as possible. What parts do I need to order?
I assume: Gasket set, valve guide set, and new valves. Do I need to get any machining done if I get new valves? Should I consider the oversize valves? Does that require machining? Why should I get a timing kit, is it just smart to replace it if I have to take it off anyway?
Thanks a million guys, and please let me know if you guys think I'm getting in over my head.
Yeah, valve cover gasket... that's umm... what I meant to say... lol. This is why I'm posting in the newbie section haha.
I found small bits of sludge here and there, but it's obvious the exhaust valves are the source of it.
I really am afraid I'll get in over my head if I have to mess with the timing, but I suppose I don't really have any other choice, do I? From what I've read on here everyone recommends engnbldr.com for rebuild kits. I really don't want to pull the engine out, in fact I want to keep this as simple as possible. What parts do I need to order?
I assume: Gasket set, valve guide set, and new valves. Do I need to get any machining done if I get new valves? Should I consider the oversize valves? Does that require machining? Why should I get a timing kit, is it just smart to replace it if I have to take it off anyway?
Thanks a million guys, and please let me know if you guys think I'm getting in over my head.
#7
Registered User
Go to the junkyard, pull another head from the same era truck, and rebuild it. That way, you'll have the time to research as you build, and you can take your time.
The timing kit is just safe insurance for the life of your engine. at 164k, and unknown/poor maintenence, it's time to just do it.
Not only that, but it's about 900000x easier with the head off.
New valves aren't necessary, unless they're damaged.
You'll need new valve guides, seals, valve adjuster screws/nuts, and if you want you can get new springs. You'll need to get the valves lapped. Any reputable machine shop can do this.
Take the new (old head) and all your parts to a machine shop, and tell them to install your new valve seals, lap your valves, and then have them put everything together (if you can afford it/you think you're in over your head).
The factory service manual will help a bunch in this situation.
You won't need to pull the motor to do the timing chain and head, you can leave the shortblock and everything else on.
Or.. If you have the dough, engnbldr sells a complete head for just under 350 bones. IMO, is the best option, considering the labor involved to do everything will end up being around the same. I'd just buy the head and tchain kit if i were you. I know when i get my tax return, i'm gonna buy one.
The timing kit is just safe insurance for the life of your engine. at 164k, and unknown/poor maintenence, it's time to just do it.
Not only that, but it's about 900000x easier with the head off.
New valves aren't necessary, unless they're damaged.
You'll need new valve guides, seals, valve adjuster screws/nuts, and if you want you can get new springs. You'll need to get the valves lapped. Any reputable machine shop can do this.
Take the new (old head) and all your parts to a machine shop, and tell them to install your new valve seals, lap your valves, and then have them put everything together (if you can afford it/you think you're in over your head).
The factory service manual will help a bunch in this situation.
You won't need to pull the motor to do the timing chain and head, you can leave the shortblock and everything else on.
Or.. If you have the dough, engnbldr sells a complete head for just under 350 bones. IMO, is the best option, considering the labor involved to do everything will end up being around the same. I'd just buy the head and tchain kit if i were you. I know when i get my tax return, i'm gonna buy one.
Last edited by peow130; 01-29-2012 at 01:39 PM.
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#8
If anyone was wondering I ended up ordering a new head from engnbldr.com
I opted for their Street RV head with O/S valves, RV spring kit to .460" lift, chilled iron valve guides, and a 268c cam. Also ordered a full gasket set, timing chain set with steel rail, head bolts, and oil pump. Wish me luck!
I don't plan on using all of the gaskets just yet, but I needed the head gasket, valve cover gasket, oil pump gasket, and exhaust manifold gasket. I figured I might as well order the kit and keep the rest just in case.
I opted for their Street RV head with O/S valves, RV spring kit to .460" lift, chilled iron valve guides, and a 268c cam. Also ordered a full gasket set, timing chain set with steel rail, head bolts, and oil pump. Wish me luck!
I don't plan on using all of the gaskets just yet, but I needed the head gasket, valve cover gasket, oil pump gasket, and exhaust manifold gasket. I figured I might as well order the kit and keep the rest just in case.
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