camoyoda

I seen this thread before a bunch but haven't found a solution yet.

86 22re was running fine and just quit. changed the fuel pump cause it didn't seem to be coming on but now it does cause I got fuel to the cold start sensor, loosened it to check and see and I got soaked... heh. also pulled the injectors and did a parts kit replace.put it all back and it will crank for ever.. but not hit. A friend said to open the maf sensor and it will run for just a sec and die... I got gas at the cold start sensor and fire at the plugs am i missing, something with a sensor?

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I put a few ounces of fuel into the plenum and close it back up, then I see if it will start with the fuel in the plenum. If it does start and run until the fuel burns off, it is likely the injectors are not firing. You could try starting fluid for the same check.

Not sure what you mean by "parts kit replace" for the injectors as you can only change the seals or entire injector.

camoyoda

Yeah it'll run with gas in the plenum till its gone and then quit , I've blocked the maf sensor open and it almost starts. Sorry I meant the seal and tip kit not an entire injector rebuild kit. I finally found where the DLC (diagnostic Link Connector) I've heard from too many sources here and other blog sources its somewhere around the coil pack... big help, but for anybody that has a 86 model 22 re there are two rubber plugs on the inside driver side fender by the coil pack that DLC connector and another bigger Diagnostic connector fit in too that are actually dust covers, mine just happened to be unplugged and hanging down by the side of the engine out of sight.
Must have been the last owner that had it unplugged them. I appreciate the help Terrys87 I hope to be able to pull codes tonight if there are any stored as I cant start the truck. Nothing worse that a vehicle that will crank like the dickens and NOT start.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

The second and third picture applies to your truck. One is for diagnostic and timing and the other is for fuel pump.

Codes... http://4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/...es/index.shtml

How to get Check Engine Codes. I just put this up for others. Applies to 87 and up. 86 and older is the bottom picture. TE1/E1


The Diagnostic port for the 85-86 is on the Drivers side inner fender and is nothing the same as the 87 and up. Here is T1 and E1 jumped. The codes and engine flashes are the same as the rest of the trucks on the dash.


Codes...http://4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/...es/index.shtml

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qEQM...ature=youtu.be

Here is how you do a Fuel Pump Bypass on the 85/86.
Jumper wire the Yellow Plug on Drivers side. ( Jumper wire should be in both contacts for testing, I just didnt have it in for picture purposes and mostly a referece for me at a later time.)


Fp +B Fuel Pump Test for 87 and newer. Use a paper clip for better results.

camoyoda

Yep your exactly right pulled the codes last night and got #3 and #11 gonna swap some of my brothers forerunners stuff to check it against mine tonight... thanks again terrys87.

camoyoda

Well here's latest... changed out my bro's parts and voila! it ran for about 10 min's kinda rough. Changed my stuff back out and no go. tried it again to narrow it down to my bro's coil and igniter... and nothing!! now getting a #3,#6 and #11... back to the drawing board ... i hope i didn't fry my bro's coil.

Buck87

I'm a little confused. Do you have spark to the plugs?

Buck87

If the truck runs with fuel in the plenum until it is gone then the problem is with the fuel system.

camoyoda

Yeah Buck, got spark and I have fuel to the cold start injector, i jumped the new fuel pump and its running. Next i,m gonna pull the injector and check it i guess...I love toys but i'm beginning to hate this one.

Buck87

Sound like a good plan. Check out these two videos.


Sorry, I was unable to make the youtube links work, so diregard this post and google "22re cold start injector".

Buck87

Do not reuse your fuel line gaskets.

Buck87

If the truck will start with fuel in the plenum then you are not getting fuel from the cold start injector. If it dies when the fuel runs out then you are not getting fuel from the fuel injectors.

camoyoda

Installment #2 the cold start is not working when i crank the truck, but after looking around I notice the start injector timing switch didn't ohm out so gonna do a change out and see if that's it. also noticed both it and the coolant temp sensor are real loose and wobbly at the electrical connector, is this normal?

gsp4life

How loose is 'real loose'? Those spring clips wear out and I bet none of our trucks need pry tools to open em anymore, but they shouldn't come off without some wiggling and pulling. Contact cleaner if in doubt.

Buck87

I'm glad you tested the cold start injector timing switch before you went out and bought a new injector. Be prepared to capture some anti freeze. Remove the switch, clean it up with a wire brush and test it again by checking the ohms cold then put it in a Styrofoam cup, add hot water (above 100 degrees F) and watch to see if the resistance goes from 30 ohm when it is cold to 90 ohms when it is hot. If not replace it then unbolt the cold start injector from the plenum and see if fuel squirts out while you crank the engine while it is cold.

KYLEFOO

theres a safety circuit in the air flow meter that keeps the fuel pump running after the engine starts. Look up the circuit opening relay here:

http://www.4crawler.com/4Runner.shtml

This page has been a great resource for many of us.

Beyond that vacuum leaks in the tube between the air flow meter and intake plenum. Idle air valve...

camoyoda

Yeah thanks guys for all the good intel. Swapped out my switch and temp sensor with my brothers 4 runner same year and guess what same threads but squeeze type plug ends on his... cant seem to win for loosing. time to punt! Also found out my injector timing switch wasn't just loose and wobbly it was broke apparently inside so i eased the plug clip apart as it was free spinning inside the sensor switch and I'm thinking it was not connected. Interesting little temp switch. Has anyone ever soldered one back together? replacement is only $265 bucks!!

KYLEFOO

$150

http://www.22reperformance.com/22RE_Performance_-_Installation_Parts.html

camoyoda

Installment #3 replaced the injector timing switch and I now have fuel at the cold start injector spraying... truck will run for about 3 seconds and die even if I push the gas pedal. I'm getting codes 3,4,11.

camoyoda

Installment #3 changed out the coolant temp sensor but still runs for a couple secs and then dies????